Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: rpm on May 17, 2006, 06:41:57 PM
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I need some help figuring out whats wrong with my '01 Dodge Ram (besides being a Dodge).
I have some sort of short in my electrical system. The engine stutters like it's losing spark everytime I hit the smallest bump. I only lose ignition, not all electrical. The transmission will drop out of overdrive sometimes, too. I ran the error codes and got P0320, 0753, 0713, 1492, 1391, 711, and 1763. They all basicly are for the crank position sensor and the trans fluid temp sensor.
The trans fluid temp sensor was replaced right before I bought the truck, so I'm confident it's OK. The crank position sensor is probably factory. But, why would it only happen when I hit a bump? If a sensor is bad, it's usually dead not off and on. Could I have a short in the main computer?
I've run all the wires as best as I could and found no shorts or loose connections. I really don't want to take this to the shop because they will rape me if I don't know what exactly needs to be done.
Any thoughts?
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crank pos sensor could verywell be bad .
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Never count on anything being ok even if was just replaced, factories make bad parts sometimes, sad to say. Might be something with the clutches in your transmission that cause it to drop out, i'm not sure though. If they have to delve inside they are going to rape you anyway so unless you can pin point it, you're screwed either way. Sorry i'm not much of a help, just learning:(
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I don't know much about the later Dodges. I own two Dodge trucks though & I just had to replace the "brain" on my 90 model a couple months ago. I had a similar problem, I took out the board & started the truck, I thumped the back of it (it's in a silicon block) lightly with the back of my index finger knuckle & it stuttered & would die sometimes. So, I would say it absolutely could be the "brain". - Thats not what it's called by the way lol
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Originally posted by rpm
I need some help figuring out whats wrong with my '01 Dodge Ram (besides being a Dodge).
Any thoughts?
The only thing that comes to mind is, what Dad told me in 1975. NEVER buy a Dodge.
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Sounds like some thing is loose somewhere
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I know this sounds stupid coming from a woman, but have you checked the wires where they connect to see if their corroded or lose? Also make sure when you plug them in they have a good clean connection.
I'f you don't want the dodge anymore I'll be happy to trade you for a 88 ford escort that makes funny noises from he engine, and never needs an oil change
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RPM this may be apples and oranges BUT......
In my Jeep the CPS is on top of the bell houseing and reads notches in the fly wheel. When I replaced my motor a few years back we jacked up the tranny to help move the engine and support the tranny at the same time. Little did we know but we ended up smashing the CPS into the floor of the jeep. It still worked but because it was adjustable it was now out of alignment.
The jeep still started and would idle but would putter and die in reverse. It was the damdest thing and it puzzled more than a few very qualified mechanics for more than a few days. Litterally we troubleshot it for 2 days strait. After I called the factory and found out about the CPS I just lostened up the bolt that held it in and pulled it back about an 1/8" (again this one was adjustable as far as how deep it would go into the hole) started her up and she purred and drove like new.
Hope I've been helpfull.
PS at least it aint a ford
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Hmm, Guns you may be onto something. I had'nt thought about the depth of the CPS. This is an old oilfield truck, so it's seen it's share of bad roads and no roads at all. I was/am afraid that it could be what Brenjen was describing and the main module is bad, but all the diagnostics show it's fine (with the exception of all the CPS and TFTS errors).
If it was a Ford, I'd have it fixed already. Since it's a Dodge, I may have to use the generic GM repair... a can of gas and a match.
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Just a footnote, my module tested good also.
It was a crack in the solder around one of the connections, it would only short out when bent or shaken. See if you can find a match in the junk-yard. i got one for $5 - Also, my two Dodges have been the toughest trucks I've ever owned.
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Something silly but a customer had a 2004 truck that would not shift into overdrive. They replaced the tranny to no effect. Hapened that the guy put a 160 termosta in his new truck to run cooler like he used to do in his old car.
The computer was sensing the engine was runing too cold, and compensated by forcing him out of overdrive so the higher RPM would warm the engine to efficient temperature for combustion.
BTW are u sure it's electrical? Could u have a fuel delivery pb when u hit a bump?
... not that I know much about cars?:rolleyes:
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Originally posted by rpm
Hmm, Guns you may be onto something. I had'nt thought about the depth of the CPS. This is an old oilfield truck, so it's seen it's share of bad roads and no roads at all. I was/am afraid that it could be what Brenjen was describing and the main module is bad, but all the diagnostics show it's fine (with the exception of all the CPS and TFTS errors).
If it was a Ford, I'd have it fixed already. Since it's a Dodge, I may have to use the generic GM repair... a can of gas and a match.
That's only if it is in fact adjustable. The stock one in my jeep is, but the OEM replacments are not, and don't seem to work right. It was just one 5/16 screw holding it in place and that little sensor can cause HAVOC on your ignition/timing. In most jeeps if it is not adjusted correctly the thing wont even start. I was lucky that mine did because I would have been scratching my head for days. Again, I hope that the two aren't apples and oranges, GL
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Well, I bit the bullet and took it to the local shop. The mechanic called and asked what I had done to the truck. His "$10,000 Snap-On computer that will read any vehicle" could not communicate with my truck.
I started to get worried. I was afraid the CPU was fried and would really take it up the wazoo come bill time. After a few hours they called back and found a single wire that had be chewed on by mice.
Bill was under $100. I thought that was more than fair considering the time they spent.
Whew!:)
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Yep, glad you got it taken care of for a reasonable cost. Shorts are hard to find for the average shade tree mechanic, like I mentioned about the board with the crack around the solder connection, that too is a short. They act the same way regardless of where they are a lot of times. And a lot of shops will rake you over the coals when it comes to electrical work.
My dad has an electronics degree & had his own electronis repair stores for years & he hates it when I come to him with a meter in my hand and a confused look on my face.
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Originally posted by Brenjen
Yep, glad you got it taken care of for a reasonable cost. Shorts are hard to find for the average shade tree mechanic, like I mentioned about the board with the crack around the solder connection, that too is a short. They act the same way regardless of where they are a lot of times. And a lot of shops will rake you over the coals when it comes to electrical work.
My dad has an electronics degree & had his own electronis repair stores for years & he hates it when I come to him with a meter in my hand and a confused look on my face.
Technically a crack around a solder joint is usually an open, not a short but can wreak equal havoc. What's worse than that is when you develop a "cold solder joint" Those arent visible to the naked eye but it's just the same as unplugging the dam wire.
Glad to know they helped you out RPM. Electrical problems in cars nowadays can be a beatch to fix. A few years ago I helped out a friend replace his entire wiring harness with an after market "easy harness" Wasn't nothin easy about it.
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I say we give a round of applause to the lady with the crappy ecsort.. she was the first to call it a wiring problem.
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I know what you mean Guns. I have helped several people install wiring harnesses in race cars. What is fun is when you find they used all the same color wire when they did it the first time.
BTW, I just gave it a "field" test to make sure that was the only problem. After chasing several rabbits across the pasture it never acted up. :cool:
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An easy maintenance thing to try is always the fuel filter... If you haven't replaced it in the last 20k miles it could be clogged and from then on the motor will be low on fuel pressure, and ANYTHING could make it hesitate.
I've had fuel filters last 70k and be fine, and I've had them clog at 10k, so the only way to make sure is to replace it every once in a while. And when the motor starts acting up, it's a very easy "first step" since it ought to be replaced occasionally anyhow.
My Dad troubleshot a large conversion van we owned for a full year, never could figure out why it would almost die sometimes for no apparent reason. He finally sold it and the guy who bought it later told him that a second fuel filter had been installed during the conversion and it was clogged. That $25 fuel filter probably cost my Dad $8,000 in troubleshooting and eventual reduced price when he sold it.
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Technically a crack around a solder joint is usually an open, not a short
LOL; & that's why I said this;
he hates it when I come to him with a meter in my hand and a confused look on my face.
If you had any idea how many times he's explained open vs. shorted to me you'd be rolling your eyes a thunking your forehead saying "you idiot do you not speak english!"
It's all a short to me :lol