Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: SuperDud on July 26, 2006, 05:06:34 PM
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Hey all,
I've decided I'm going to attempt to build my next PC myself. I can pretty much replace sound cards, memory, etc. If given all the parts to put together, I could do that. But My problem is I'm not sure whats compatible with what.
For instance I bought this tower recently:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811209018
I was told next to buy my processor and motherboard. I have no idea what will work with what? I was looking at this combo:
processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819117071
Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131578
Would that combination work? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
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Your links were truncated.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811209018
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819117071
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131578
The CPU and motherboard won't work. The MB is a Socket T (LGA 775) and the CPU is a Socket 771.
These are the CPUs that will fit that MB. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?Submit=ENE&N=50001157+2010340343+1051707842&Subcategory=343&description=&srchInDesc=&minPrice=&maxPrice=)
I don't see any Socket 771 motherboards for sale at NewEgg.
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Thanks OOZ, I didn't even pay attention to the 775 & 771 numbers. I see what you're saying. The case I'm buying has 2 fans with it. When I go to order the processor( This one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16819116230 ) it gives me the option to add another fan and heatsink. Will I need these too and will I have enough room for it to fit?
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Well, you'll probably want a new heatsink. The ones that come with the CPUs generally suck if they even come with one. If your case has room for another fan, you can never have too many. Just make sure it's the right size for where it's being mounted. (Getting a 120mm fan for an 80mm mount bites. ;))
Also, buy some Arctic Silver. It's the best thermal paste out there. Don't use the stuff that comes with any of the CPUs/heatsinks, it's usually crap.
EDIT: The Prescott CPU core is known to run extremely hot.
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Originally posted by OOZ662
EDIT: The Prescott CPU core is known to run extremely hot.
Yeah I read reveiws about that. Think I'm going to change up and go with this 1:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819116001
OK, going with the above and this motherboard:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16813131578
Look ok?
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I've got a 3.06GHz Northwood that sits at about 30 degrees C idle, but it's a Socket 478. The one you posted sounds like it runs at low temperatures as well.
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PS: OOZ, you're my hero:D
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Heh. Since the one in my avatar's gone on vacation, I've got Thunderbird open and recieving emails every minute. Every time someone replies to a thread...I know... :noid
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OK, last question for today. When I go to pick a hard drive, do I also have to pick a certain 1 of those? I haven't really looked into it yet to be honest.
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Get a SATA hard drive for that motherboard. Also, I would seriously look into a mirroring RAID setup. That basically makes a copy of your HD onto another HD. If the one that's actually being used eats it, you take it out, throw it away, plug in the mirrored one, and no data is lost. :aok
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Originally posted by OOZ662
Get a SATA hard drive for that motherboard. Also, I would seriously look into a mirroring RAID setup. That basically makes a copy of your HD onto another HD. If the one that's actually being used eats it, you take it out, throw it away, plug in the mirrored one, and no data is lost. :aok
So to do the RAID thing. I would need to buy 2 hard drives? Or do they sell a special type of hard drive?
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Two plain ol' SATA hard drives. The motherboard says it has RAID, so I'm guessing that means it comes with RAID software, ect already.
Also, there are all kinds of RAID setups. One way will "stripe," meaning if you write a 200kb file, the first 100kb is written to HD-A while the second 100kb is written to HD-B. That doubles the transfer speed, but if one drive dies, the other has to be formatted because it only holds half of every file.
The type of RAID setup is chosen during setup; no matter which one you choose, all you need is two SATA hard drives and your motherboard.
EDIT1: If you do a mirrored one (the first one I talked about) and use, say, two 100GB hard drives, you'll still only have 100GB of storage. The rest of them give you the total, ie 200GB, but they improve something else (like the data transfer speed.)
EDIT2: The second sentence doesn't mean you HAVE to use RAID either; it's an option, though. :D
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if you planing on dual sata's ina raid 0 config then its best to have 2 hd's of same size ,rpm,cache, brand perfured .. but why waste the money there .
id go with a single 250 sata partitioned and put the big bucks in the video card.
another option is if your planing a total rebuild (everything new)
go get one of those $400.00 HP's 3700+ 939 pin ,, they got 250gb sata hd's and a decient cdr dvd rw , and 1 gig ram ,,, take that puppy apart and add a gigabyte or asus mb and a good video card . just a thought .
Dont rush the build as for prices are falling fast right now . if ya shop smart you should be able to build a screamer for $700-900 area (the good custom builts are still up in the $1200 area )
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Originally posted by Roscoroo
if you planing on dual sata's ina raid 0 config then its best to have 2 hd's of same size ,rpm,cache, brand perfured .. but why waste the money there .
id go with a single 250 sata partitioned and put the big bucks in the video card.
2x160GB hard drives, knowing your data is safe but only getting 160GB; $100 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?Submit=ENE&N=2010150014+1035915133+103530091+1036007800&Subcategory=14&description=&srchInDesc=&minPrice=&maxPrice=)
1x250GB hard drive that if it dies, it's gone; $70 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?Submit=ENE&N=2010150014+1035915133+103530105+1036007800&Subcategory=14&description=&srchInDesc=&minPrice=&maxPrice=)
2x250GB hard drives, knowing your data's safe and still having big storage; $140.
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OK guys, I'm gonna step back and see where I am to make sure I'm getting everything I need and not screwing up.
So far I have ordered the case, processor and motherboard as posted above. I also ordered this guy for my ROM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16827106013
Will this fill both my CD and DVD needs?
For memory and hard drive I have on my wishlist:
memory: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16820145566
hard drive: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16822144701
For the hard drive I'm just going to order 1 for now. Like I said this is my 1st build and I don't want to get too complicated with it. In the future I might try that RAID thing, or if it makes sense and seems easy when it all arrives, I'll go ahead and do it.
As for the Video card, I'm thinking this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814142052 If you guys can find one below $220 that will work better, I'm game. I'll probably check again later today, I'm just kinda tired right now.
Sound card I'm going with a turtle beach product because I had 1 years ago and loved it. And for internet conection I was just gonna steal one outta this computer. Will that work? Welp I work nights so I'm kinda tired:D Gonna go to bed and check this when I get up. If there are no objections... it's a go!@ And to think I was gonna order all this over a period of months, so much for that plan hehehe.
Oh and did I forget anything?
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With that board you can hard drives in a RAID 5.
RAID 5 - Minimum of 3 disks, provides good speed and redundancy.
Actual space for a 3x250Gb setup = 500Gb - one drive is used for parity.
You can lose any one drive and still have intact data.
Performance - Writes are slower than RAID 1 or 0, reads are fast.
Advantage over RAID 1 - Adding another drive gets you the FULL capacity e.g 4x250 actaul space = 750Gb.
Really starts to show its worth with the bigger number of drives use.
For e.g. I have a RAID 5 SCSI array I use for data storage -
5 x 36Gb U160 SCSI = 144Gb (4x36) of safe data backup, one 36Gb drive being used for parity.
Funnily enough just snagged a brand new Dell Perc 3/DC RAID controller with a battery backup and 128mb cache for $85 (cost from Dell well over $250), to replace the Mylex170 RAID controller I use at the moment.
Main reason was support - Dell Perc/3 (LSI MegaiRAID 1600) is supported by Win XP64, Mylex 170 isn't.
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New Turtle Beach sound cards are just repackaged cheap kits. Turtle Beach stopped designing and building thier own sound cards a while back. Just FYI.
On Windows systems, I think it is a good approach for the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). Onboard RAID controllers are generally more trouble than they are worth.
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Originally posted by Skuzzy
New Turtle Beach sound cards are just repackaged cheap kits. Turtle Beach stopped designing and building thier own sound cards a while back. Just FYI.
On Windows systems, I think it is a good approach for the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). Onboard RAID controllers are generally more trouble than they are worth.
Yes they are.
Thats why I use an add-in SCSI card.
U160 is becoming a very viable option for home users.
It's also faster than SATA, more reliable, and usually has a longer warranty period.
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1) SCSI drives do cost more, but are generally more reliable and longer lasting then SATA/IDE drives. If you opt for Seagate Cheetah's, then you may get much better performance.
2) SCSI host adapters add cost to the computer, and if it is a RAID controller, it will cost even more.
3) Windows XP has a bug which inhibits performance of SCSI drives. Windows 2K is fine with them though.
Those are the negatives. That said, I use nothing but SCSI drives in my home systems, except for the Wife's computer as she had to use Windows XP for an application they use at her place of business. It will not run on Windows 2K.
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Originally posted by SuperDud
Will this fill both my CD and DVD needs?
Yup. It will both read and write to all CD and DVD media.
Might wanna look at the new blu-ray and whatever the heck the other one is technologies too, but probably not. :D They're in the "VHS vs Beta" phase right now and nobody knows if either one will catch on, they're really expensive, but hell, Sony's using them for the PS3 and some other thing.
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Originally posted by Skuzzy
1) SCSI drives do cost more, but are generally more reliable and longer lasting then SATA/IDE drives. If you opt for Seagate Cheetah's, then you may get much better performance.
2) SCSI host adapters add cost to the computer, and if it is a RAID controller, it will cost even more.
3) Windows XP has a bug which inhibits performance of SCSI drives. Windows 2K is fine with them though.
Those are the negatives. That said, I use nothing but SCSI drives in my home systems, except for the Wife's computer as she had to use Windows XP for an application they use at her place of business. It will not run on Windows 2K.
Checked out the 'bug' in XP.
It actually exists in Win 2000 also, but as XP, it depends what SP level you are at.
Strictly speaking its not a bug, it was a fix to fix a bug.
More here
http://faq.storagereview.com/tiki-index.php?page=XpScsiProblems
MS explanation here
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;332023
True about cost, but U160 is coming way down in price.
Picked up a new dual channel U160 Perc3/DC RAID with BBU and 128mb cache yesterday for $80, need it for move to XP 64, current Mylex U160 RAID not supported in XP64 and no drivers planned.
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isnt there a "rule violation in here" :D
Superdud dont worrie about scsi or raid configs unless your after a server . there more pain then its worth unless your experienced with it .
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Yup, apologies, we now return you to your scheduled programming.
:)
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Originally posted by Skuzzy
New Turtle Beach sound cards are just repackaged cheap kits. Turtle Beach stopped designing and building thier own sound cards a while back. Just FYI.
Thanks for the heads up Skuzzy. Everything is getting ordered as we speak. Now I just gotta put the darn thing together:confused::noid
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Shame on you guys for even mentioning RAID to a first time builder... whose goes by the name "Superdud." :confused:
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Skuzzy recommending SCSI drives....who woulda Thunk it?
Balsy
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I can't believe you're going for a pentium 4... AMD cpus with the price cuts totally kill the P4 in price/performance. The P4 is dead dead dead. If you're going to go intel, go for conroe. If you have to buy NOW and don't want to pay huge premiums for the newest stuff, get an amd AM2 setup with an A64 X2 cpu. The X2 3800 is going for as low as $150.
If I had to buy now, I'd either get conroe or a cut price AMD X2.
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P4s are not dead, actually. With conroe still being new (is it even out yet???) people can buy a compatible mobo and a P4 CPU. This gives very good performance and the promise of future upgradability to Conroe (assuming they chose the right mobo)
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Yea, conroe cpus will drop right into P4 sockets... right. Hasn't happened yet, and I doubt it will really happen this time either.
Waste of money IMHO. Wait for conroe or get a bargain on an A64 X2 dual core cpu. The X2 3800s are really CHEAP now, and the AM2 ones use DDR2 so you won't get left behind buying obsolete memory either. I've seen A64 2 cpu/mobo combos for about $200, and that would be a pretty good deal for a heck of a lot of performance NOW.
If you can wait, get conroe...
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Actually, Eagl, the conroe WILL fit in socket775 (LGA775). Motherboards are being made that will support conroe or the standard Pentium D chips. Like I said, get the right motherboard, and later on you just swap out the CPU.
I'm just hoping ASUS releases a BIOS update to support conroe on my mobo. Then again by the time I can get one I might just get an entirely new PC :)
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I remember getting the "right" mobo... slot 1, socket 7, and AMD's socket 939. It's all BS, because they profit whenever you are forced to buy a new mobo. They'll swap some pins or require an odd voltage, and you'll have to buy a new mobo in a year. I've seen it happen every single upgrade cycle for the last 18 years.
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Hrm.... Pentium 4s in 775 socket layout... They all fit in my motherboard. Basically I can take the D chips, I can do the really bad chips (what are they? either 64 bit or pre-conroe dual cores) -- hell I think I can even take a celeron D or two, all in the same motherboard, swapping them out.
The only ones that profit by doing that are the motherboard companies, not the chip designiners.
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Eagl, the 965 and 975 Intel chipsets support Conroe. Motherboard manufacturers who have been shipping these chipsets only need a BIOS update to support Conroe.
The ones shipping today do support Conroe and have been tested and reviewed by all the major hardware sites.
Conroe is physically an LGA775 part, just like the Prescott P4. Conroes are already shipping. Newegg has some of them in stock now, as do a few other sites.
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Too bad I got a Socket 478 instad of an LGA775. :o
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OK, everything is ordered and it's a good thing b/c my PC has finally died lol. 1 thing about my processor is it says it can be overclocked to raise the speed fairly well. How would I go about overclocking?
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First of all, find out what the max temp you want to run your CPU at is. Then go into the BIOS (usually by hitting F1 or Delete or some other key as the system POSTs, or shows all the stuff like the CDs connected and memory test. The very first thing you see when you hit the power button). Somewhere there should be voltage settings. By adjustin those, you overclock the CPU and RAM.
I have absolutely no overclocking experience, and recommend you look up an article on it on a respected website.
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Simple way of overclocking: Don't.
Slightly easier way of describing how to overclock: Depends on the BIOS of the motherboard. ASUS (my mobo mfc'er) offers options to overclock by 5% increments as well as manual. Some mobos make it easier than others. Some mobos flat out don't support it (well, they didn't used to, heck if I know in this day and age if that's still true)
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Alrighty then, I won't mess with it. Didn't know if it'd be worth the trouble or not. If it risk destroying things then I'm out. Thanks guys and I'm sure there will be more to come when the actual peices start to arrive:D
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Yup, if you overclock it too much, the heat rises and you melt the CPU, the Mobo, or even both.
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OK another question. I was disecting my dead PC today and when I took the heatsink off my processor I saw all that "sealant" that they put between the 2. My question is, when I go to put them together on my new one, do I just smear some on the processor or the heatsink?
Also, I know there's some wiring connections to be made. Can I expect the wiring to come with the parts or will I need to buy that seperately?
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Read the instructions about installing the thermal paste.
Wiring and instructions will come in the motherboard box.
Everything you buy has intructions included, doesn't it?
This will not be as hard or as complicated as you think it will be. Read the instructions and you'll be fine. The intructions and photos/illustrations are written at a 12 year-old level.
If you get stuck, remember that Chinese peasants can assemble PCs, then read the instructions again. ;)
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Rub both the heatsink contact and the CPU heat transfer surface with 99% rubbing alcohol on a lint-free cloth. I used coffee filters.
Let the alcohol evaporate off. Install the CPU into the motherboard. Put a dot of thermal paste about 3/4 the size of a grain of rice onto the CPU. Put the heatsink straight down onto the CPU, twisting it a couple degrees in each direction. Don't spin it, just twist it a little. Without lifting up at all, install the heatsink's clips. When the computer first starts, go into the BIOS and watch the temperature. If it gets too hot, undo the process, cleaning both surfaces thoroughly.
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If you use Arctic Silver 5 (I used this not too long ago, for the first time) they give very specific instructions, such as taking a razor blade or flat edge and smoothing what little paste you have, making it flat and making it spread to the edges, etc etc...
As for the motherboard, the only problems for wires are: SATA/IDE, USB connectors, CD-ROM audio cables (if integrated audio), PSU/fans, and the "hardest" one, the case plugs. These should be very clearly marked on both the wires and the motherboard manual. Keep the manual. It's got oodles of info you will want later, when you need to look something up.
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Originally posted by Krusty
If you use Arctic Silver 5 (I used this not too long ago, for the first time) they give very specific instructions, such as taking a razor blade or flat edge and smoothing what little paste you have, making it flat and making it spread to the edges, etc etc...
I did the above (my post) with Arctic Silver 5 and it works great. I'd thik that smoothing it would introduce more air pockets, making it work worse.
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And just to add to whats already been said here.
When you install the MOBO in the case. remember not to overtighten the screws.
And when you put it all together. Rout the wires away from the case fans.
Recently rebuilt my machine and forgot this.
All of a sudden I hear this "BbddddddddddddddddddddddddT" sound
"WTF IS THAT??" Says I.
One of the wires slipped over and one of the case fans started rubbing against it.
No damage but startled the dickens out of me
but not only for that. But because you want goo airflow throughout the case. and if the wires are in front of a fan it blocks airflow
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Originally posted by Rolex
This will not be as hard or as complicated as you think it will be. Read the instructions and you'll be fine. The intructions and photos/illustrations are written at a 12 year-old level.
If you get stuck, remember that Chinese peasants can assemble PCs, then read the instructions again. ;)
:lol
OK, thanks guys. I got parts arriving today so here's hoping. I did buy the artic silver 5 stuff b/c I heard it was really good. I'll keep you guys posted:D
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OK my newest question.
As a birthday present I bought my sister the same CD/DVD combo that I bought for my new one. It's going to be installed on an already built and running PC. I installed the hardware fine but now it's telling me to install software. The only problem is it didn't come with a disk. All I got was a Nero software disk for burning, it sn't for the hardare. Does it need to be downloaded from online? Also, when we start up the PC it gives us the followign messages:
Drive 4 not found parallel ATA Pata 0 (PRI IDE MASER)
Drive 5 not found parallell ATA Pata 1 (PRI IDE SLAVE)
Also when we tried to let the installation wizard detect it. It says the device is not configured correctly(code 1). I need some help, my sister is threatening to kill me!:eek:
Sincerly yours,
Teh DuD:O
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start her pc ... as soon as you hear the "Post beep " hit the "Delete" key
now your in the bios
toggle down in the main use the enter , arrow , - + number pad keys
highlight the cdrom hit the + key til it says "Auto" hit enter .....
now it should auto reconize that new cdrom ..
hit esc then "arrow" over to exit hit "enter " and save let it reboot ...
now your os may reconize new hardware ... now install nero and your all set .
(Send beernuts to ..Roo's evil mercenary squirrels )
P,s. If ya dont get it pm me your phone # and I'll call .
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Is it the only thing on the "ribbon" IDE cable?
Is it at the end of the cable, or on the inner connector? Check the drive itself for the jumper location for master and for slave.
Make sure there is only 1 master and 1 slave on the same cable.
If that still doesn't work, try plugging it into the other IDE cable (if not in use).
EDIT: Once the motherboard recognizes it, it should be auto-installed. Once Windows installs generic drivers, you should be able to install whatever burning software you have, and that will upgrade the drivers to allow burning.
Barring that do a search for model, make, and number, and the word "drivers"
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Krusty ,cd roms ussually get left on cable select .
they only time i master /slave them is when ive got a harddrive added to the secondary ide/ sata.
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I must've been flashing back to my multiple HD select days.
Well, if it's screwing up try different setups. Disconnect the old one and replace it with new, instead of adding new. Or mix the cables around with different drives on different cables. Get creative, see if you can narrow down what the problem is.
EDIT: Make sure you have the plug going in the proper way. Some drives let you put cables on backwards (been there, done that) and it trashes ("screws with", not "destroys") the entire IDE ribbon when it happens. It will only run properly when installed the right way.
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he may have to change it from cable selet though if theres other stuff on that ide/sata cable though ... if it doesnt reconize in the bios thats when you change it to mastor or slave and see if it reconizes then ...
ive seen 3 cdroms that i couldnt get to reconize. they showed up as a broken string of numbers in the bios ..totally funky kinda thing .. but i think they were oddball dedicated compaq junk from 98-2000 era.
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Alright Rosco, I went into BIOS and to those locations. I don't have an auto option. I have on and off only. Also my computer doesn't use delete to get there, I use F2. The operating system is windows XP and a pentium 4 processor if that helps?
Also, in BIOS below the on/off choice it says " device: unknown" in both the master and slave boxes. The newly installed device will open and close when you hit th open/close button, it just won't read anything. Could it be as simple as installing drivers?
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Also, in the "my computer" window it no longer detects the old CD drive or the new dvd/cd combo drive.
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Okay, try this. REMOVE the old drive. Put the new drive EXACTLY where it was.
You probably just have an issue with master/slave. I've had CD-ROMs before that have master jumpers set as I get them (out of the box). It's not too common but it happens.
If you can get both drives working, but only one at a time, it means both are trying to run the same position (be it master or slave).
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My problem is the original set up was a dvdrom and seperate cdrom. I took out only the old dvdrom and replaced it with the new "all in 1" rom(the old cdrom is still in there). I did this because the ribbon wiring going to them has 1 connection fot the cdrom then continues up and ends with another connection for the dvdrom(which is currently hooked up to my new rom). I think you were talking about the ribbon wiring earlier. If that's the case should I unplug the connection currently plugged into the old cdrom and plug that into the new rom? Is it ok to just leave one of the plug ins unused?
BTW, thanks for all the patience/help guys!
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It'd be better to take the other one out and leave the space on the cable unused. One less thing using power in the case when the new drive does everything.
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OK, I just wasn't sure if I could leave it unplugged or not so I thought I better have something to fill it. Could it be the 2 ROMs are clashing and confusing the PC? Maybe if I remove it that will cause the system to recognize it... I hope!:D
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OOZ has a point. If it's a good DVD-R drive, you really don't need 2 drives. I've got 2 because one is a DVD-ROM, and one is a CD-RW, but can't read DVDs.
Just store it somewhere safe and clean, or put it into an older computer that needs a DVD-ROM. While this doesn't solve the mystery, we might be able to just bypass the problem. Maybe.
Yes you can have just one plugged in. That works all the time.
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thought about cables yet ...???
Remember theres 33, 66, 100 , 133 ribbon cables
along with the fully pinned out and the blocked pin one ....
there might be a cable incompatability here .
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Drives work as slave and master drives. It's how the data flows through the IDE channel. If the settin on the back of both drives is either both Master or both Slave, neither of the drives will work. Sometime Cable Select and be chosen and the controller picks which is to be which, but that isn't recommended. One has to be master and the other slave.
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I got it figured out. All I had to do was unplug the old CDROM still in the case and leave it unplugged. Then in BIOS turn that drive off. Worked like a charm. Thanks guys.
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OK I'm back!
I have the PC built(maybe even correctly). I went to give it it's 1st power up but to my dismay the monitor won't come on. I think this might be do to the fact that the motherboard didn't come with an intigrated video card. I have 1 installed in my PCI slots and have the monitor connected to it but no luck. Any ideas?
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A lot of high-end video cards have their own power socket. Make sure there is a proper cable plugged inot it. Make sure it's in the PCIe 16x slot and not the 1x slot (they are similar in size). if the mobo is in a tower and on its side, the "top" slot will be the 16x (traditional AGP position)
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Originally posted by SuperDud
OK I'm back!
I have the PC built(maybe even correctly). I went to give it it's 1st power up but to my dismay the monitor won't come on. I think this might be do to the fact that the motherboard didn't come with an intigrated video card. I have 1 installed in my PCI slots and have the monitor connected to it but no luck. Any ideas?
EEEEEEEEK .... what no video card ??? :rolleyes:
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Originally posted by SuperDud
I have 1 installed in my PCI slots and have the monitor connected to it
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why do i have this wierd feeling Supers trying to hook up an old pci type video card ?
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It's a PCIx16 card hooked into the proper slot(it tells you on the mobo). What do you mean by "power socket" krusty? I had to install a special adapter(came with card) on to my original monitor plug. The hook up is shaped different than a normal monitor plug in so they give you a special one. I checked to make sure there was nothing else to plug into the card itslef and it doesn't appear to have anything, I'll check again though.
On a good note when I hit the power button nothing catches on fire :D Oh and I got splinter cell and pacific fighter free with both the sound and video cards w00t!
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There's probably a four pin molex connector in the card itself. It's the same power connector used by the CD/DVD/Hard drives.
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Nope, no connections or anything. Here's the card:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814131424
It's a dual monitor supporting card and like I said, has special adapters for the monitor plug.
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You know when you get that feeling that you screwed up? Welp I got that feeling. Upon further review both the plug ins for the dual slot card are DVI slots. I thought with the adapter that allows you to plug in a regular monitor cord into the card, it should work. Now I'm thinking that unless your monitor is especially built for DVI it won't work and guess what... mines not, it's older:( So it looks like I'm gonig to have to buy a new monitor as well, flat panel here I come!
PS: I'm not going to buy 1 right away until you guys confirm this. But looking through some of the searches, this is the feeling I'm getting.
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you should be able to monitor up with the adaptor
beshure that power is plugged into the vid card (if applicable)
as you boot there should be a post beep .. hold deleate key and walk thru the bios ... it should be visiable
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Neg, I'm using the adapter on mine with a six year old CRT. Works fine.
Look into these:
(http://www.shelteringwings.com/vcard1.jpg)
(http://www.shelteringwings.com/vcard2.jpg)
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The DVI to VGA adaptor should work with any monitor.
I strongly suggest actually reading the setup instructions. Lots of newer/faster cards require a power cord inside the computer to be plugged into the video card using some sort of adaptor cable. If you don't read the instructions and aren't a geek, you'll never figure this out.
Make sure you're using the correct DVI output as well, and again check the instructions to see which output you should use to drive a VGA monitor with the adaptor.
You can try a bios reset using the motherboard bios jumper. This will reset any custom bios settings though, so you may have to go back in and set up stuff if you were using non-default settings.
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Hey Superdud, dont give up. Your monitor should be fine together with the adaptor that came with your card.
If your push the power, does the harddisk spin and get accessed?
If you have a CD Rom/DVD connected, does it search for a disk and then give up?
What i want to say is are you sure the monitor is black (while switched on and connected) and the comp boots (fans spin, drives accessed, beeps etc.)?
You have it connected to the correct one of the ports on the graphic card?
Did you get a motherboard with 2 x16 slots and did you plug in the card into the correct slot?
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Just Curious, But does Kind of Memory did you buy? I noticed the MB you chose requires DDR2 Ram, if you got DDR ram then that baby wont boot, This is off the MB Screen:
Number of DDR2 Slots 4x 240pin DDR2
DDR2 Standard DDR2 667
So if you didnt get 240 Pin DDR2 Ram hehe ur kinda bum outa luck untill ya get some.
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Gentlmen....
It is alive MUHAHAHAHA!@#$#@#! ZoMfg!@#!@one!#!two!#!#!@one@!#!@#
Now I just gotta do the BIOS thing and install the drives etc etc!!!:O
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I am interested to hear what was the problem since that is always helpful for other people who have a similar problem.
So what was the solution?
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Well to be honest I just took the whole darn thing apart and started over. Guess somewhere along the line I didn't have something plugged in all the way or after doing it a 2nd time I put something in the right place hehe.
Oh btw my processor(pentium 4) temp is running at about 65C and my mobo is at about 40C. Is that reasonable?
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ive built 2 systems now, listed below. These guys here will get you through the technical stuff, but some subtle things to KNOW after you get your parts but before you start assembly that are not really stressed. Make sure you plan for your hard drive, cd roms, dvd burners, which is master and which is slave. That can really hit hard when you flip the switch and 1300 dollars worth of components fails to initialize. Make sure you match the motherboard mount studs or spacers to match your motherboards holes. It really sucks having to pull everything back out because you thought you could skip a cupple of mounts. You really need the support when you are pressing the RAM sticks in and the vid card, and the connectors. And keep very good track of those small screws. I dropped one on my motherboard when I was putting a dvd drive in. Chances are your system aint gonna fire right up and the last thing you want to deal with is the possibility of a wayward screw shorting out your system. (when it is probably a drive set to slave instead of master). By the way, you can get Windows XP OS for under a hundred OEM from newegg. Its 2 hundred in the stores for a fresh install copy. Good luck. Its pretty exciting when the thing starts to purr. Beats the hell out of generic ones at the store.
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65C sounds about right for a P4.
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i have no clue at all about metric:cry
but my P4 runs at 120F with a non-stock cooler .
with the stock it was about 165 F
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You must be running a Prescott...that still sounds way too hot, though. My Northwood idles at 70F, but it's a much better chip.
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Also a soon-to-be-first-time buildier....
Hard drive question....
Is SATA the same as IDE when it comes to hard drives? Do motherboards (like the one scuzzy bought this one (http://www.asus.com/products4.aspx?l1=3&l2=82&l3=0&model=994&modelmenu=1) ) allow you to use IDE, or does the ATA thing mean that you have to RAID?
And what about the SLI issue? Again, using Skuzzy's high end board as an example, does the lack of an SLI slot mean its a graphics dead end?
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SATA is not the same as IDE. IDE is the older format. It takes up more room and transfers data slower. SATA HDs have to be used on a SATA compatible motherboard. There are little inch-wide plastic plugs that you put the cable into and then plug the other end into the drive.
Skip SLI. For two cards you get only a little boost over a single card. You're paying 200% of the money for 105% of the performance. After one card your price goes up very quickly and the performance boost goes down very quickly. Diminishing returns
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Originally posted by eagl
65C sounds about right for a P4.
For a Prescott P4.
I am not a big fan of multiple video cards. I like simple. Lower power, lower heat, less noise, less problems.
Like Krusty said, there is not much performance boost using dual video cards over a single one. There never will be. Oh, you could write a purposeful demo which would show it all off, but in the real world, dual video cards are more marketing hype than performance hype.
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<-- not afraid to show ignorance.....
So a double wide, 2 processor card like the HIS radeon 1900XTX is different from SLI? And SLI is nothing but a double card with a single connector?
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SLI is having 2 slots and 2 cards (one in each slot) and having the motherboard delegate one card to do odds and one card to do evens, basically (I don't know how it splits the work up).
A card like the GeForce 7950 is 2 cards in SLI integrated into 1 slot, so it is essentially 1 card (technically) but is really an SLI in all but name.
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Really appreciate the help, Krusty.
Another question...are all 975X sockets Conroe compatable, or do they have to specifically say that they are "Core 2 Duo Ready"? I thought all 975X's were OK for conroe, but I've seen some feedback threads out there that say that isnt so. The Asus site doesnt really make the point clearly....
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I believe that SLI splits it up by pixel. The first one goes to the first card, the second goes to the second, third to first, fourth to second, ect. It's called "checkerboarding." Crossfire splits the screen in half. One side for each card.
I might have those exactly backwards, though.
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I always though SLI means Scan Line Interleaving as in one line by one card, next line by the other. But i might be wrong there.
Dual graphic chips for one picture is nothing i want, not on one card and not on two. In my opinion its a pure sales strategy, one high end card is better than two mid end cards and one high end card is enough for everyone who only needs current games. If you do 3D modeling or game design of next years goodies there might be the need for a better card but for private use there is not.
Now the upgrade argument doesnt count either, since when you buy an upgrade in 1 year a better graphic card generation will be out and you want the better generation for more features & better performance at similar power rating, not slightly better performance for double power usage.
When you need more graphic power in a year or two throw away the current card and buy a new one, will fit in the same slot as the previous.
Not all sockel that physicaly fit a conroe are compatible. So you must check if the motherboard can take it. Also if the motherboard can take it with the newest bios revision make sure your board has that revision because you can not update the bios without cpu and you cant use the conroe for updating then.
Serial ATA is diffrent as it transfers the bits one after each other and not 16 at the same time like the old ide ATA. But it transfers them much faster so in the end the data rate is better. You can not use SATA drives on an old IDE interface and vice versa, so if you want to use your old harddrive or more than 2 CD/DVD drives you need a motherboard with at least 2 IDE interfaces which is no longer common.
If you buy a new harddrive you should buy SATA and also have that on your board.... which is on any new motherboard now anyway.
PS why is there no spell check option?
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OK, I figured to all involved your owed some closure on my mess I called a PC build. And as embarrassing as it maybe, here goes...
So when last I wrote about my PC I had a P5W mobo and a pentium D processor. Welp... they cooked. I figured it was from the thermal paste incident so it was lesson learned for me. I went ahead and bought a new processor(Core 2 Duo E6300 Conroe 1.86GHz 2M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor ) and mobo(P5B). I reinstall everything and fire up the PC. I start getting the same problem. At this point I'm not losing this mobo and CPU too, I actually spent a pretty penny on it compared to last time. So I take her into a shop. Guy starts taking it apart and looks at me and says, "Where are your spacers for the motherboard"? Apparantly when your mobo touches the case it's a bad thing :D So yeah, I was shorting out my mobo the whole time, it was that simple. New PC is up and running now and works great. Just thougt I'd let everyone know and say thanks one last time for all the help.
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The spacers!! LMAO!!!!
Yeah, I think the motherboard manual mentions something about them...
One thing: I don't know if the old board was really fried or just shorted. If you remove the short (add the spacers) it might start right up. If you still have the parts you should test them out and maybe sell them back or return them for refund or something.
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I dunno...after that heat I wouldn't trust them for very long. :rolleyes:
I've actually never used spacers. I don't even know what they look like. My MB is so top heavy (bigarse heatsink) that I just loosen a couple screws until it's just barely hanging off the case. :lol It works eventually.
I grounded my power switch last time. Thought I had killed it, then pulled the wire for the power switch trying to get it from the MB (I forgot to turn off the power from the PSU) and it pulled the MB up; the fans started going and all the lights lit up and it scared me so bad I nearly fell over. :rofl
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Heh. How did you get the video card to fit without the mobo spacers? Just bend the bracket up 1/4 inch?
Wow. That's a good one :)
Of course, I came close to doing the same. Before I learned better, I thought the anti-static bag the mobo came in was an insulator, not a conductor, so I used a sheet of the bag as an anti-shorting layer between the mobo and the mobo tray. Yea I used the spacers but I thought the plastic sheet would be added protection. Even with this mistake, the computer ran fine for 5 years but later on I learned that the bag is designed to be a nice conductor so no static charge would build up. Whoops.
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Originally posted by eagl
Heh. How did you get the video card to fit without the mobo spacers? Just bend the bracket up 1/4 inch?
That's why those are off? :eek: Holy crap, I thought my case was manufactured incorrectly! :lol What do the spacers even look like?
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Originally posted by OOZ662
That's why those are off? :eek: Holy crap, I thought my case was manufactured incorrectly! :lol What do the spacers even look like?
(http://www.gen-x-pc.com/images/mobo_spacer.jpg)
Have to admit I might have made the same mistake...was fiddling around with the screws trying to find which ones fit the MoBo holes AND the threads in the case, when I realized that I had exactly the same number of those little brass things as I had board holes, and that the screws I wanted to use were threaded better for the spacers than for the case holes...
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Am I the only one that READ the motherboard manual when putting his PC together?!?!
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I didn't get a manual with my motherboard.
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To quote Charlie Sheen in Hot Shots: Part Deux, "Those bastards!"
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My manual for MoBo went into great detail about the connections and the utilities, but both the MoBo manual and the case manual assumed the screws were beneath discussion.
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Originally posted by Krusty
Am I the only one that READ the motherboard manual when putting his PC together?!?!
Mine doesn't mention them whatsoever. Just tells me to put the 6 screws into the mobo, go figure.
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Originally posted by SuperDud
So I take her into a shop. Guy starts taking it apart and looks at me and says, "Where are your spacers for the motherboard"? Apparantly when your mobo touches the case it's a bad thing
Dangit Dangit Dangit. mobo to case was my first though way back when u lost your power supply and had to replace it. I did mention a short circuit, I just didn't think anybody would lay a mobo flat on the side of the case. I should have said it, I'm sorry, dangit dangit dangit. :cry I knew there had to be a big short in there to fry a power supply coupled with all the heat problems u had. sheesh :cry
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Hehe no standoff's ,ouch. Guess its an easy mistake is they werent mentioned anywhere in the instructions . How did ya get the pci cards screwed in or how did the mouse and keyboard connections fit in the I/O insert panel in the back ? Glad i used an existing box when i installed my first board , the standoff's were already in place .
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these guys shoulda read the instuctions or at least looked at the pic's lol
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Originally posted by 38ruk
How did ya get the pci cards screwed in or how did the mouse and keyboard connections fit in the I/O insert panel in the back ?
My AGP slot lines up, but the sound card doesn't screw down. It actually locks the PS/2 connectors in place with the rear panel; a good idea, actually.