Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: DiabloTX on September 25, 2006, 07:17:37 PM
-
Not really. After inspecting the car in a shop today I found there is nothing about this car that has been modded or customized in any way. I mean, even the windows are untinted.
So, I bought a K&N air filter for it today. It's first official mod. I'm keeping it simple because it's a well known fact that modding is more addictive than crack cocaine.
-
Good luck with your new build!
You say you aren't building a full out customized ride?? Yeah right!! The snowball has started....
I started to replace my stock gauges in my '68 Cougar a few months ago. I'm just now reassembling it after a brand new paint scheme. The new interior bits should come in next week. But honey, it's only a few hundred bucks to put these cool gauges in it! :)
-
Like I said...crack cocaine.
:D
-
Pardon me for sounding ignorant, Diablo, but I gotta ask.......do the K&N setups honestly give you any more power? I ask cause I was looking at two K&N cold air kits for my truck and with what they cost, they better give me some performance improvement.
I've never added a cold air kit before, cause til this truck my stuff was mostly old school carbureted engines, and while I love the new EFI setups and the reliability, I am admittedly way behind on what add ons work and what doesn't.
-
I got an air filter, not an FIPKm that added more power, not alot, only a small percentage. It does allow the engine to breath better though. I am going to take the air box lid to a bodyshop that I am close with and have them paint it the same color as the car, just to customize under the hood a little.
The problem with modding, as I see it, as not everyone does it because they want to, sort of a "keeping up with the Jones's" attitude. If that's what they want to do, ok, fine by me. I had a highly modified '77 Trans am and '65 GTO so I had that "mod fever" excized quite a while ago. But, that being said, with todays technology, I've seen some amazing modded cars that just blow my mind. The down side to all this modding is once you heavily mod one part of the car, it effects other parts of the car and it just snowballs from there.
-
Plus modding can kill the resale value of the car. "Man, I put 20K in my car, why no one wants to buy my 440HP purple Trans Am for more than 7k?!"
-
Originally posted by SFRT - Frenchy
Plus modding can kill the resale value of the car. "Man, I put 20K in my car, why no one wants to buy my 440HP purple Trans Am for more than 7k?!"
That too.
As soon as I saw an ad with a Camaro with "20k in drive train alone, must sacrafice, only asking $19,900!!" I moved on.
-
My nightmare is my car gets picked for "Overhauled" and it comes back looking like....
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/txflood77598/smurfy.jpg)
-
I missread the title and thought it was going to be about LSD, am kinda dissapointed.
But to make up for it, i offer you a perk for your car.
(http://www.onpoi.net/ah/pics/users/19_1159279446_pimp_goblet.jpg)
-
20k for a old z28, thats alot.
-
Originally posted by Saintaw
I missread the title and thought it was going to be about LSD, am kinda dissapointed.
But to make up for it, i offer you a perk for your car.
(http://www.onpoi.net/ah/pics/users/19_1159279446_pimp_goblet.jpg)
Those funny, funny little Euro's.
-
If you seek a cost effective mod for an LS-1 .. the lil' belt driven superchargers work well.. bolt on, 450 or so HP when yer done, all under the hood, still smog legal and runs on pump gas.
Later, mayhap some Dart heads an a better cam profile, perhaps a chip.
Shift kit for the trans. A bit stiffer rear gear, and stronger ring and pinion.
Sticky back tars.
Next thing yanno you got shoe polish numbers on yer window :)
(Kinda wonder about Scott Shaffiroff's motors ..they a chunk of change but *man* .. what FUN!!.. 650hp 472 cubic inch small block chebby on a single carb gotta be fun to drive :)
If you want it to sound like a V-8 .. Flowmaster, Borla, and others make some very nice sounding exhaust bits. Even just a muffler will give you that V-8 growl :)
General consensus is Flowmaster is a bit louder than Borla, I have Flowmaster on my Durango (have had since it was bran-new) ..and I really like the sound quality.. it's not so loud it drowns the Bose sound, but I can hear that deep growl when I get on it.. when I fire the 360 up it turns heads :)
-GE
-
I am definitely keeping it stock. The more I think about mods the more I like the idea of keeping it stock. Like I said mod one thing and you usually have to mod something else. Coming from a 3.8 Series II V6 to an LS1 is quite the leap and I think 310 ponies will keep my happy as far as I can tell. As for the exhaust it already does sound pretty throaty, like I said coming from that 3.8 it sounds like a demon flying out of hell. I just can't begin to describe the smile that etches itself on my face when I turn the key and here that engine fire up. Makes everyday seem like Christmas!
-
eddiek,
My dad has a Ford F350 to pull his 5th wheel camper. He bought the truck cause diesel was cheaper at the time and for better fuel mileage than his gas truck. When he bought it was bone stock. Got about 14mpg +/- just by adding the CAI (cold air intake) he gained up to 6mpg. He pulled the camper on a trip this summer and with the camper in tow he was up to 14mpg. Empty it is more like 19-21. He is planning on adding bigger exhaust and a computer addon(can't think of what they are called now where you can reprogram the computer with 1 button on the fly). All just to gain him some MPG and a little HP pulling the trailer. He doesn't want a hotrod but a well tuned work horse and he is in his 60s :) If you can get the CAI then go for it and enjoy the benefits of a couple of extra HP and some more mileage.
S!
Rocket
-
It's a vehicle. It's not a social life, life ambition, penile extension, penile substitute, vaginal substitute or boost in intelligence. Just drive the darn thing and try to live a life based on what you do, not what you own. Ten years from now the world, country, state, county, city or neighbor hood won't give a crap about what car you drove. Just try to make the world a better place for having lived in it. :huh
-
How about just light weight flywheels, double plate clutch, and light weight drive shaft, and close-ratio gears. Isnt that gonna give you more performance even without HP increase?
-
Maverick,
Actually, it can be part of an active social life. Don't trash something you don't understand, especially coming from a "virtual community" like this. Guys were getting together to race, work on cars, etc. long before you were born so just because you have no use except transport for a car, don't bag on those who enjoy the things.
How much would you listen to a ricer boy trash talking about pasty faced computer wimps like *us*? Well, that's pretty much what you sound like when you try to minimize what a car can mean to someone. What your computer means to you, a car means to others.
My computer and AH gets me out of the house maybe once a year for the AH con... My car racing hobby gets me out of the house meeting real people 2-3 weekends per month. Sounds like a legitimate hobby and social life to me.
Hell, how many guys do you know who met their wife at a computer game event, or conceived their first child sitting on their computer? I know dozens of people who met their wives at motorsports events and conceived their first child in the back seat of their car... Not quite as limited as you thought, maybe?
-
ik3 the LS1 F-body drivetrain is already the most efficient one in GM's lineup, and some of those components are already about as lightweight as they can reasonably get. The driveshaft for example is lightweight aluminum from the factory. There's not much there.
Yea gears would get you straight-line acceleration but at a huge penalty in fuel efficiency. With the 5-speed manual, the car is already geared perfectly for the 1/4 mile, redlining 4th gear right around 130 mph. You gotta bump up over 400hp to exceed 130 in the quarter mile in an f-body. The auto trans is likewise geared very well for the 1/4 mile without any mods, yet they still get around 30 mpg on the freeway due to very tall overdrive ratios in the last gear.
-
Originally posted by Maverick
..Ten years from now the world, country, state, county, city or neighbor hood won't give a crap about what car you drove. ...
Well.. mebbe not what *you* drive or have driven.
I've had people come up to me at a car show or cruise an remember my lil Duster from when they were in high school, how it and the guy drivin it got them interested in the whole 'car' thing.. and now they had their own set of nice lookin wheels (this blonde and her boyfriend had dropped a 440 6-pac into a Challenger convertible they found, and put alla R/T stickers and emblems on it .. it was a bee-yootiful red on red with a white rag top, 4-gear car)
-GE (but hey .. you go right on ahead an trundle to work an back in yer hack)
-
Well said.
-
After doing some research it looks like I will go with a cat-back system made by either Borla (which I had on my last Camaro) or one made by Corsa. I'm going to hold off for a while before I do it though.
Eagl, what oil are you using?
-
I've been using valvoline 10-30... Basic dino oil changed every 3k or so. I pretty much use the weight range recommended by the manual and use valvoline 'cause I like the blue and white logo and they were an SCCA sponsor years back. Dunno if they still are, but the logo is still neat IMHO and it doesn't cost any more than any other brand if you buy it on sale.
I don't use synthetic 'cause if you don't switch to 100% synthetic very early on in the car's life, you run the risk of blowing out gaskets because the car breaks in it's bearings, tolerances, and wear surfaces based on the oil you use for the first few thousand miles. I tried to switch another older car to synthetic at around 60k and it burned a quart every 2000 miles. Switched back to dead dinosaur oil and it quit burning oil again.
At 120k on the car/motor, I think the dino oil has proven that it's good enough for an LS1 even in fairly hard use (my amature racing).
-
Yeah I understand about being loyal to a sponsor. I've been reading up on oils for the LS1 and alot of what I have read have been recommending GC 0w30. I bought some with a KnN oil filter (higher flow rate than regular filters) and am going to have the oil changed soon.
There is an LS1Tech meet on the 8th coming up and I intend to go there and start networking. I can't believe the differences between my '96 and this '02 and I'm not talking about styling or ergonomics.
-
Be careful about oil filters... Fram sucks. I try to get motorcraft or mobil filters, based on a really old web expose' published by some guy who went out and bought about 20 filters, and cut them open. He found a lot of interesting things inside there. For example, the flow rate of a filter depends on filter thickness and number of pleats. If the filter density is small, you lose flow rate unless you increase the number of pleats. Decrease the pleats, and you have to increase the allowable particle size. Also, the bypass valve in many filters is made out of cardboard instead of some sort of silicone or rubber and metal. Fram filters were among the worst, with very few pleats, a weak bypass spring, and the bypass valve was cardboard. Pretty much all of the oil going through a fram filter just went through the bypass because there wasn't enough surface area in the pleats.
Anyhow, I don't know if that review exists anymore or if it still reflects the current products, but after that I don't buy fram filters unless they're all I can get, and then I swap them out as soon as possible and no later than the 3k oil change.
The mobil1 and motorcraft filters cost about 4x what a fram filter does ($14 vs. $4), but that's because it has twice the filter material and a robust bypass valve stuffed inside the same space. I consider that to be worth the extra expense. I can change the oil every 3k miles with a $20 filter a whole lot of times before it's as expensive as dropping a new $6,000 crate LS1 into my car, so it's just cheap insurance IMHO.
It's hard to find stats since most cars get wrecked or junked or blow up far before $120,000 miles, but it seems like most car enthusiasts who own very high mileage performance cars change the oil at 3k miles and use quality filters. It's a small and biased sample population though, so it's tough to tell if it's a real cause-effect relationship or not. It's not that much more per oil change, per year, or per mile, so I figure it's better to err on the side of caution and think of it as engine insurance.
-
I almost forgot to mention, regarding the diff in performance from the V6 to the V8... Welcome to the dark side :) I haven't met a single f-body owner who'd willingly switch to a mustang or pretty much anything else. They get rid of their V8 cars only when absolutely forced to. The price/performance ratio is very very high. If you get a car that isn't a maintenance lemon, it's a very satisfying car to drive. I've found that most people who talk trash about the 1998- f-body cars are mostly jealous because the car's performance dominates everything in it's price range.
It was satisfying to know I still had a nice car when some 22 yr old riceboy told me how a "mere" $4,000 mod to his WRX would let it beat my 4 year old firebird in the 1/4 mile... He was pretty proud but he had to fxxk with his car to make it as fast as mine, and I bet his turbo gives out before my car loses even 10 hp due to age.
Plus I towed an 1800 lb trailer up and over the Tahoe mountain range with an AVERAGE speed of 80mph... Try that in a WRX and you'll be walking in no time :)
-
No doubt. Since I've been driving my LS1 Z I've suddenly found out what I've been missing all these years. My family have asked me what's it like going from the Series II to the LS1 and I tell them it's like a combination of my '96 Camaro and my old '65 Pontiac GTO; I get the best of both worlds. Hearing that V8 growl is something that I had long forgotten the thrill of. Not quite as noisy as my old 389 motor but much more civilised. ;)
-
Originally posted by eddiek
Pardon me for sounding ignorant, Diablo, but I gotta ask.......do the K&N setups honestly give you any more power? I ask cause I was looking at two K&N cold air kits for my truck and with what they cost, they better give me some performance improvement.
I've never added a cold air kit before, cause til this truck my stuff was mostly old school carbureted engines, and while I love the new EFI setups and the reliability, I am admittedly way behind on what add ons work and what doesn't.
a CAI _might_ give you a couple hp on the highway... if your motor is stock, it's probably a waste of money
-
I wonder how this car can handle the twisties...
-
tikky,
It handles twisties very well. Even better with a few inexpensive suspension mods like better swaybars, but it's pretty good considering it's size. It does pretty well on road courses and with the right alignment setup it can be very neutral in the corners. Drive it in too fast and the front end will push of course, but a blip of the brake then throttle and the rear end comes around really nicely.
You just have to understand that where a miata *instantly* takes a set and turns, a bigger car like this takes *2 instants* to set and turn. But once your reflexes match the car, it is really fun to drive on the track or in the mountains, etc. Especially twisty mountain roads with the t-tops off :)
-
DiabloTX--
I remember several months ago we had a short discussion on how well you liked your V-6 Camaro. It seems you've finally realized the error of your ways!
"a CAI _might_ give you a couple hp on the highway... if your motor is stock, it's probably a waste of money"
This depends greatly on how good or bad the car's stock air intake is. GM likes equipping its cars with lousy intakes, and replacing the stock intake (all of it, not just the air filter) can in some cases mean a signifigant power improvement.
J_A_B
-
Originally posted by J_A_B
DiabloTX--
I remember several months ago we had a short discussion on how well you liked your V-6 Camaro. It seems you've finally realized the error of your ways!
J_A_B
Well, yes and no. I was perfectly happy with that car as a daily driver considering gas mileage and maintenance were very easy on my wallet yet it still had enough power to keep me satisified. OTH, this car is just rocketship in disguise. And handling, while a little tricky, is something that like eagl said, once you learn the quirks of the suspension geometry in a given situation, is quite rewarding. I can see how kids with little driving experience can get in trouble very quickly in this type of car.
-
Im not familiar with the history of camaros but do late generation camaros handle and ride like euro and jap cars?
-
Originally posted by tikky
Im not familiar with the history of camaros but do late generation camaros handle and ride like euro and jap cars?
Not even close.
The best way to sum up how they handle is lots of understeer (tight)followed by a gob of oversteer (loose). Suspension geometry can be changed to make this effect better but in the hands of a capable driver they can use this perceived "weakness" as a strength.
-
Originally posted by Rocket
eddiek,
My dad has a Ford F350 to pull his 5th wheel camper. He bought the truck cause diesel was cheaper at the time and for better fuel mileage than his gas truck. When he bought it was bone stock. Got about 14mpg +/- just by adding the CAI (cold air intake) he gained up to 6mpg. He pulled the camper on a trip this summer and with the camper in tow he was up to 14mpg. Empty it is more like 19-21. He is planning on adding bigger exhaust and a computer addon(can't think of what they are called now where you can reprogram the computer with 1 button on the fly). All just to gain him some MPG and a little HP pulling the trailer. He doesn't want a hotrod but a well tuned work horse and he is in his 60s :) If you can get the CAI then go for it and enjoy the benefits of a couple of extra HP and some more mileage.
S!
Rocket
diablotx sorry about the hijack
Rocket go here about halfway down the page. i have a cat c16 in my kw and am getting 1050hp to the drivers and 5 mpg. that grossed out at 80,000. wasnt cheap but fun never is
http://www.dieselinjection.net/frames.html
-
tikky,
Think of it this way - what euro cars try to do with refinement, efficiency, and little design quirks like not having cup holders, the camaro and firebird do about as well by doubling the engine displacement and using tires that are twice as wide. Why double the price of the car when you can get the same performance on the open road by doubling engine displacement at a fraction of the cost?
My firebird gets the same gas mileage as a BMW 3 series sedan, so don't try the inefficiency argument either ;) GM did their homework with the engineering behind the last generation camaro/firebird, but the image just wasn't there so people bought slower mustangs that looked cooler instead. I prioritized performance over styling and ended up with a firebird, because when I bought my car, very few cars anywhere NEAR it's price range could beat it on any track, dragstrip, or roadcourse. Until around 2002, nothing on the market under $50k could touch it for overall performance.
But no, it doesn't drive or handle like a euro or japanese car. Even a monster BMW 7 series *feels* tighter. But a well driven camaro/firebird is a very fast car indeed.
As an aside, try naming production cars from ANY country that will do an honest 159 mph straight from the factory floor, verified by multiple auto magazine tests. To make it challenging, limit yourself to cars that cost less than $30,000. I'll start your list... The 1998 and newer V8 Camaro and Firebird, indepentently tested by both car and driver and motortrend up to redline in 5th gear at 159 mph, with a $26,500 retail price for a fully loaded 1998 Trans-Am.
I've had mine to 140 before common sense prevailed...
-
Nissan 350Z (coupe) base? (http://www.modernracer.com/nissan350z.html)
-
Originally posted by eagl
tikky,
Think of it this way - what euro cars try to do with refinement, efficiency, and little design quirks like not having cup holders, the camaro and firebird do about as well by doubling the engine displacement and using tires that are twice as wide. Why double the price of the car when you can get the same performance on the open road by doubling engine displacement at a fraction of the cost?
My firebird gets the same gas mileage as a BMW 3 series sedan, so don't try the inefficiency argument either ;) GM did their homework with the engineering behind the last generation camaro/firebird, but the image just wasn't there so people bought slower mustangs that looked cooler instead. I prioritized performance over styling and ended up with a firebird, because when I bought my car, very few cars anywhere NEAR it's price range could beat it on any track, dragstrip, or roadcourse. Until around 2002, nothing on the market under $50k could touch it for overall performance.
But no, it doesn't drive or handle like a euro or japanese car. Even a monster BMW 7 series *feels* tighter. But a well driven camaro/firebird is a very fast car indeed.
As an aside, try naming production cars from ANY country that will do an honest 159 mph straight from the factory floor, verified by multiple auto magazine tests. To make it challenging, limit yourself to cars that cost less than $30,000. I'll start your list... The 1998 and newer V8 Camaro and Firebird, indepentently tested by both car and driver and motortrend up to redline in 5th gear at 159 mph, with a $26,500 retail price for a fully loaded 1998 Trans-Am.
I've had mine to 140 before common sense prevailed...
suspension mods give u solid handling, i have seen old third gens do pretty good on auto cross with mods. BUt as far as engineering goes i think ur giveing gm too much credit. They havet started designing engines yesterday, and with the race pedigree of the corvette they have the know how to make it work. I except to perform well, nothin to praise them about, this is how it should be, as for the price 26,500 sticker u havent counted jerk dealer tax which makes it 30+. AS for the mustang, its a good car, and isnt much slower then the ls1 it was just cheaper then the overly hyped camaro.
Yea i agree about feul eff. that 350z eats gas no matter is its a v6 or not.
-
Eagl
Hasn't it been a 6 speed manual since the first 4th gens came out?
I know alot of people with kids who went with the suckstang because it had a bigger backseat.
Sad that people didn't like them, they really were GMs only interesting car. ;)
-
Originally posted by GtoRA2
Eagl
Hasn't it been a 6 speed manual since the first 4th gens came out?
I know alot of people with kids who went with the suckstang because it had a bigger backseat.
Sad that people didn't like them, they really were GMs only interesting car. ;)
Yes, the LT1's had an M6 available.
-
I dunno when the 6 speed manual came out. Top speed in the last version was achieved in 5th though, because 6th was too tall.
-
Does LS1/LT1 engines support turbo upgrades? I've never seen one but i think it will smoke the ricers to shame if they're ever fitted with one.
-
There are turbo and supercharger kits for both the LT1 and LS1 engines. It's fairly easy to get another 100hp out of the engine with a few bolt-on upgrades. I saw a complete kit, turbo, intake stuff, headers and exhaust, guaranteed to bump an LS1 to 400hp for under $4,000, taking one single day for the installation. That was a few years ago, not sure what's out there now.
-
Originally posted by tikky
Nissan 350Z (coupe) base? (http://www.modernracer.com/nissan350z.html)
The only knock on this car I can see is that the base coupe starts at $26k. At that price range you could get a fully loaded Z-28. Also, the Z-28 is a little bit quicker too.
-
Originally posted by 1K3
Does LS1/LT1 engines support turbo upgrades? I've never seen one but i think it will smoke the ricers to shame if they're ever fitted with one.
No2
-
Originally posted by storch
No2
No2 kills engines
-
engines are easily rebuilt
-
Originally posted by DiabloTX
The only knock on this car I can see is that the base coupe starts at $26k. At that price range you could get a fully loaded Z-28. Also, the Z-28 is a little bit quicker too.
26K for a z28 is a rip off, The ss isnt worth 26k, for 26k u can get a c5 vette, look hard enough u might come close to a c5 zo6.
N02 isnt worth useing, i have seen too many engine dies from that crap, build horse power the right way. Heads cam exhuast for starters then maybe a supercharger. Turbos have too much lag, superchargers give u power now.
-
welp .. on dino vs synthetics ..ah kin relate a few things:
Coupla things to give yas a reference: USAF uses SOAP lab to verify engine wear .. they analayze percentage of metal in the oil. It's a direct indicator of how well the oil is doin it's job at lubricating the motor.
In Germany, a young Captain was campaigning a Formula Toyota car.
Lil 4-banger, turbocharged, open-wheel car. Friend of mine was on his pit crew, name of Dave Thompson. Dave heard about Mobil 1, and wrote them a letter about what they were doin, and they sent him cases of it.
Now .. routine was engine rebuild every 3 months, because it needed one by then, was beginnin to use oil, plugs comin out dirty an the like. Tranny the same (manual, 6-gear I think he said) ..and differential.
They used the SOAP lab and charted metal percentage, and could tell when things were goin south.
First switch to Mobil 1, and metal content dropped by 50 percent ..they ran another race .. second oil change, metal content dropped again, and by the 3rd oil change, 3rd race ..it was *undetectable* ..it came out as clean as it went in. So they tried it in the tranny ..same thing .. 3 oil changes and it was clean comin out as it was goin in. Then Differential. This was all the early Mobil 1 ..5 weight ..about like water for viscosity.
The young Captain drivin the car noticed right off, of course. His RPM was higher goin into the corners. . he had to brake earlier, and his tires were complainin more comin out of the corners ..he got sideways easier. His track times went down also. At the end of 3 months, they sent in the motor for rebuild .. the motor guy said there wasn't anything wrong with it, he just replaced gaskets, honed it, new rings, and sent it back.
Now .. personally .. I had a CRX Honda, 1986. Bought it new. Ran it for 1500 miles or so.. to let everything in it 'seat' or wear in .. then switched to Mobil 1, 5 weight.
There was a stretch of road I drove every day to work an back that was ~20 miles, no cops or traffic, and I useda just floor it one end to the other. It was 91 miles from my driveway to where I worked.
Lil CRX picked up 9mph top speed, and 4mpg ..with just that change.
Later, I bought a 1988 Civic hatchback .. with similar results.
Then a 1988 1100cc Honda Shadow motorcyle .. yup .. very noticeable mpg boost, but I passed on the top end check .. it got *hard* to hold onto at 127mph (where I eased off... wind blast was purty fierce)
Had a 1978 Gold Wing .. same.. about 4mpg increase, and again I dint push to top end .. the Wing frame began to wobble at 130mph.
Now I drive a 4WD Durango .. 360, 3:92 gears inna back .. 17mpg around Phoenix here .. on Mobil 1, 30 weight. Lotta folks say they get 12 or so mpg outta their D's .. I don't.
About gaskets 'blowing' .. takes positive air pressure in the crank case to do that. Mobil 1 or any synthetic doesn't provide that.
Synthetic has orders of magnitude higher shear force, but if you run 5 weight and your valve cover gaskets are cork or cracked ..it's gonna leak out ;) Engine gotta be sealed up fairly well .. my 'D' at 67k miles now is beginnin to 'use' a quart every 3500 miles .. not burnin it, leakin it :) (burn shows up on the plugs .. and they are still clean as new ..no missing at all ..since I drove it off the show room floor).
-GE (oh .. and you can run 7500 miles tween oil changes on Mobil 1, recommended interval)
-
I'd wish my step dad would have kept his Z28, got to drive it the day before he sold it. Coming form a 4 cylinder Ford Probe it was pretty damn fantastic, floor it off the line:aok Only thing though, it was automatic.
I'd like to get a nice muscle car from the 60's or 70's though, nice restoration.....only a few more years. Nothing beats that sound going down the road.
-
eagl, thats intersting what you say about Fram. I had always considered them a quality filter based on what I had personally seen in industrial use. I'm also a fan of Valvoline from their racing sponsorship and use. I've used it for years and have had zero problems. I also add Prolong to my oil for extra protection. I highly reccomend it.
-
WOOOOT!!!
Exactly 6 months and 0 mods so far.
Have no intentions of doing anything to it.
May have to bust up for a '09 when they come out.
But I've made it 6 months so far. I almost weakened and had a custom exhaust put in...but I held out.
:D