Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: Citabria on May 19, 2007, 01:39:07 PM
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you know I have used cvh pedals for over 2 yrs now and they are nice sure
but the analog reciever alwways deviated 500 or so points all along the range so the plane would snake when using the rudders like it was in turbulence.
so i figure its just the pedals not all CH crap is like that.
so I cough up 150 bucks for this CH fighterstick and it does the same crap.
have to have a deadband and tried dampening but when pulling G the G blackout pulsates and the plane acts like its in turbulence when turning.
cant do sht about it.
the worst part is this is straight outa the box and its this bad.
maybe its just analog and they are all that way i dont know but when I had MS sidewinders the actual stick position readouts would not fluctuate at all.
what gives?
is this what you people call a good stick?
the only thing its got going for it is its large range of motion which makes the spiking mess that is its inner pot or whatever workings semi usable.
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Did you try calling CH tech support? Sounds like you got a bad pot or 2 outta the box and may want to RMA the stick. I just replaced all the pots in my stick and rudders and they are like new again. The throttle is still going strong after 5 years. GL
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sounds like you've been unlucky fester.
Had my CH combatstick/pedals since xmas and they are spot on.
No fluctation or anything. Very precise and smooth love them.
both USB
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Fester What is your stick scale like ???
I think your might be going thru the same thing I was . I had alot of "Bounce" or "turbulence " in my flight ... it was super noticable in my films .
After comparing notes with Silat I figured out i needed alot higher Scaling, alot more on the lines of a CH set-up .
(http://www.onpoi.net/ah/pics/users/301_1172673138_ahss393a.jpg)
Notice were the scaling starts on the far left .... thats kinda a good starting point for a stick scale , you may need to even go higher with your scaling as for Silats scale was from a even higher starting point (75 % up i think)
Note: Mine will be diff then the all the other guys because I'm the "Only one" in AH running a MAD Catz panther and Roo-peds ... But get some setup screenies From the CH guys and you'll see what i mean .
On a final note are you turning off auto trim ??? It can make you weave/bounce thru the air too at times .
Hope this helps
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I have had the same problem Fester is having but with the CH Combatstick 568. My throttle input jumps even when I am moving my X and Y axis alone. My Y axis also fluctuates just leaving it in the neutral position. Deadband and such doesn't help this. I think it's a defect with CH. But it's too late to do anything about it, because I bought my stick more than two years ago, and I think CH only covers them for one or two.
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I had to send my first fighterstick back due to a bad pot . The stick didnt have the same deflection on each side of the deadzone, and would actually spike just sitting there. The second one worked , but wasn't perfect , it would still cause alittle nose bounce in one spot but ch said thats the way they are , something like the pot output cant be a half number, so it goes to the next degree , or thats how i understood it .
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Is it plugged on a powered USB hub ?
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I have none of the problems you have . Lucky me I guess , just checked my stick and it's really very steady .
Here's a pic of my elev . I get far less nose bounce set up this way . It's like Roscoroo says I guess .
(http://www.onpoi.net/ah/pics/users/1007_1179654809_scaleing.jpg)
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6 years old sidewinder and still playable settings:
(http://xs215.xs.to/xs215/07200/settings.jpg)
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I have a pretty antique set of CH USB. The left toe brake doesn't respond anymore, though the pot is good, so I suspect controller issues. I'll look into that reasonably soon. The leather grips I put on them roughly 6 years ago are nicely aged, and I'm loathe to replace any of it.
I had a cougar set; sent the stick off to a machinist to get rid of the center play and never got it back, so all that's left is the throttle. On the whole I prefer CH.
To fix spiking in the stick and rudders I just spent more than my spouse will approve to buy 3 hall effect sensors to replace the potentiometers. I'll let you know how it works after they get here and I get them swapped. Hopefully once I get everything cleaned, new sensors in, and possibly springs replaced I'll have a top-notch set to fondle as I fall flaming from the sky.
This, of course, is the tip of the AH spending iceberg in the next 12 months...
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Puck: I heard the wires to the toe brakes often got pinched. Could just open 'er up (if you research it you'll figure out the trick to it) and see if the wires got cut over time.
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The +5 goes all the way into the controller board. I didn't bother to break out the O-Scope and trace it from there, but I will once I get it all apart to put in the hall device and I'm grounded for the duration anyway.
I'll buy another three (toe brakes and stick throttle (RPM) if these work out as well as I hope. I wonder how hard it would be to put a WEP detent on the CH throttle...that was the ONE feature I liked about the cougar...all I'd really need is a limit switch, and I know just the existing switch connection to use for it...hrm...
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bought a belkin powered USB port and it solved all my problems and incidentally even made my saitek x45 much more accurate and smooth.
it was all caused by lack of a good clean ample power supply and with the usb hub powerign them everything works great!
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so its a flux in your 5 volt rail thats causing the variance in your pots .
Adds this to my bag of grey matter :aok
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That or he was over driving the USB. 500mA per port, if you're lucky, on a PC. Hubs power supplies are generally beefy enough to give you the full half amp.
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Nice to hear that your gtg now Fester .
:aok
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Originally posted by straffo
Is it plugged on a powered USB hub ?
I win :p
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Originally posted by Puck
I had a cougar set; sent the stick off to a machinist to get rid of the center play and never got it back, so all that's left is the throttle.
Who did you send it to so I will never make that mistake with my Cougars?
Originally posted by Puck
To fix spiking in the stick and rudders I just spent more than my spouse will approve to buy 3 hall effect sensors to replace the potentiometers. I'll let you know how it works after they get here and I get them swapped. Hopefully once I get everything cleaned, new sensors in, and possibly springs replaced I'll have a top-notch set to fondle as I fall flaming from the sky.
This, of course, is the tip of the AH spending iceberg in the next 12 months...
Just so you know Hall Effects work great. I bought some as part of a rudder mod kit from a guy over at Cougar World. BTW where did you find the ones you needed to replace your pots?
I have a CH setup as well as another Cougar that I want to just replace the pots in and need a good supply.
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Hall Effect POTs (http://www.p3america.com/contactless_potentiometers.htm)
Bloody expensive; $40+ each for the ones I ordered, and surgery may be required for them to fit, but what the heck. Also insanely difficult to find, so I'm all for sharing. In all the other forums I see "I bought Hall effect potentiometers to replace..." with nary a reference to where they got them. I think they wanted to make money selling mod kits...
The machinist in question was an old co-worker of mine who taught me how to use metal lathes and CNCs and all those other fun toys. I was getting bored in the computer shop. Most likely he got busy and it's sitting in pieces on a shelf somewhere, its origin forgotten and will eventually be a conversation piece. The throttle is in a box in my garage; I'm still trying to decide what to do with it. I got them four years ago, right after the 2003 con, and used them for a while. Playing with the code was more fun that cranking them around...using the gate for WEP is awesome. I need to put an indent switch on my CH throttle.
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Right they are expensive and the ones in my rudder mod kit work great. The shaft on the HE looks like it should have fit easily but with the TM RCS you have to add in a different little arm to get the right timing on the movement since you don't take the gear out of the housing.