Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: The Fugitive on January 06, 2008, 11:54:18 AM
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OK, I took the plunge and built my "free track" rig. For those of you that don't know what it is, its a free version of a "TrackIR" set-up. Free Tracker is the software that you get (http://www.free-track.net/english/freetrack/qu-est-ce-que-c-est.php) You have to provide the hardware.
For hardware, I picked up a "Microsoft LifeCam VX-3000 on Ebay for $15. I did remove the IR filter as described (http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/filter_removal/microsoft_lifecam_vx1000.php) Once you pop the cover off the lens unscrews and you can pop the IR filter out with a razor knife. I then cut the end off of an old negative to tape over the front to act as a light shield.
(http://webpages.charter.net/maddogjoe/camara.jpg)
Next, the components for the "rig", I bought from RadioShack...
9 volt battery plug (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062219&cp=2032058.2032230.2032264&parentPage=family)
5 pack of 10 ohm resistors (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062309&cp=&sr=1&origkw=10+ohm&kw=10+ohm&parentPage=search)
3 Infrared LEDs (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062565&cp=&sr=1&origkw=infrared+led&kw=infrared+led&parentPage=search) (not the exact ones I have)
a 9 volt battery, and a on-off switch.
They make it pretty easy to figure out what you need for your circuit. At the site they have a
LED Assembly Wizard (http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/calcled/index.php?lang=us) You just type in the values, and it will put up a picture of the circuit, with the vales of the resistors you need. In my case I was using a 9v battery, and LEDs with 1.5 volt pass, and 150ma current. The wizard says I need 30 ohms resistance, so I added 3 10 ohm resistors in series like the picture shows.
Below is what my rig looks like...
(http://webpages.charter.net/maddogjoe/rig.jpg)
This was the second one I made. Going by the web page I used the measurements they had listed. Top LED 30mm out, and 30mm above the center LED, and the bottom LED 40mm out, and 40mm below the center LED. With this small a rig, and having my camara only about 30 inches away, it had a hard time picking up the up-down movement. The second rig was made twice as big.....
(http://webpages.charter.net/maddogjoe/drawing.jpg)
The measurements are important, because you have to type that info into the FreeTacker program in set up. I added the on-off switch, save on the trouble of plugging and unplugging the battery. The velcro strap easily wraps around both the battery, and the headset I use.
Also, as suggested on the site I filed down the tips of the LEDs. The rounded tips focus the IR light to a smaller dot, by filing them flat the light makes a bigger beam, making it easier for tyhe camara to pick up.
!(http://webpages.charter.net/maddogjoe/led_tip.jpg)
Pretty...no, but it does work
:D
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How much would you charge to make me one and mail it to me? Im no good with electronics.
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Originally posted by Larry
How much would you charge to make me one and mail it to me? Im no good with electronics.
Same if my attempt blows up in my face
You might be able to pay for your subscription with this hehe.
donkey
Edit: Any performance hits using this??
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Now, for the software......
The write-ups in english are incomplete, and a bit confusing. Down load the program (http://www.free-track.net/download.php?id=FreeTrack_V2.1) , and install it. Installation was easy, no worries about dll files or such. After installing your camera, and the program, start the FreeTracker program.
The first thing you do is select your camera on the middle right drop down box. If you don't, it will run a "demo" when you hit the start button. Once you select your camera, you can use the button to adjust the setting on your camera. Start at default, and once you get things up and running, you can tweak things as needed.
Next select the "3 points" clip (in my case), and then the "set up" button. Here is where you type in the dimensions of your rig. Turn your rig on, and click the "cam" button, then click the "start" button. Adjust the "threshold" slider to the right to lower the number of "points" the camera picks up until you have just the three on your rig.
From here on out its all tweaking. I had to adjust my camera a bit to get it to see the 3 points with out background interference showing up. Of course I wasn't easy on the thing, my room is well lite, and thats how I like it. A darker room would have made things much easier, but not as comfortable. There are a number of sliders to adjust the "speed" and throw" of your head movements as well as the input it gives in the game. The only adjustment to make in the game is to go to "views" and click the TrackIR box to enable it.
For the good.....
It was easy to put together, and once I figured out that you had to select the camera BEFORE you hit start the software wasn't too tuff to figure out. It worked the first time, even BEFORE I modified the camera, but works much better with the minor mods.
For the bad.....
I do take a "hit" to my system, and loose about 10 FPS max so far (pretty heavy furball so I think its about the highest), but that only drops me to about 50-55 when it gets nasty. Remember, I am only running a 3.2 gig CPU, and thats a single, NOT a duo. So its not too bad a hit.
Adjusting the "dead spot" sucks. It has 3 settings, small, medium, or large. While I like that as I get my head pointed towards the front it "snaps" to the front view and holds there, there is a bit of delay when I turn my head. I'd like to make the dead spot smaller, but havn't found a way to yet.
6 view sucks, but on the plus side, the views assigned to my stick are not turned off while in tracker mode. To get the 6 view I use my stick 6 view, and can slide my head around the headrest with head movement. A little strange, but I can get use to it.
Over all, I'm impressed ! For $30 I have a good working model, and I can really spend some time trying it out to see how I like it in the game. Should I decide I don't like it, I'm only out a few bucks. So far its been fun plying around with it, and I got my first kill with it last night :D Getting centered up for my shot is a bit tuff. I never knew how much I was jumping around in my seat when in a good dog fight !!! Now I know "why" the wife was laughing at me all the time !!!
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Originally posted by Larry
How much would you charge to make me one and mail it to me? Im no good with electronics.
Its pretty easy to do, you don't have to be a electronic pro to do it. You could get away with just twisting the wires together and taping everything. I used so 1/4 inch plywood as my framework, and hot glued all the parts to it.
Give it a shot !
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hey, thanks for sharing this. My two sons are going to try to do this same thing, and hopefully it works out so they stay the bleep off of my machine (you know, the one with the X52 and track IR!) when I am not home.
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Originally posted by The Fugitive
I do take a "hit" to my system, and loose about 10 FPS max so far (pretty heavy furball so I think its about the highest), but that only drops me to about 50-55 when it gets nasty. Remember, I am only running a 3.2 gig CPU, and thats a single, NOT a duo. So its not too bad a hit.
6 view sucks, but on the plus side, the views assigned to my stick are not turned off while in tracker mode. To get the 6 view I use my stick 6 view, and can slide my head around the headrest with head movement. A little strange, but I can get use to it.
So with a duel core or whatever, the hit should be less? And what do you mean exactly by the "6 view sucks?"
Thanks,
donkey
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I think he just has to get used to it, Donkey. When using those kind of devices, if you simply turn your head, the view at 6 o'clock will be centered on the headrest, like in the default view. You have to tilt the head in a direction or another to actually view what's on your 6. And, while with a hat switch you can just save the head position with F10, you can't do that with a head tracking program and have to get used to turn and move your head.
Fugitive, I'm glad to know that it works, thanks for sharing. Sooner or later I'll find the time to build one of those set up.... :)
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Originally posted by Gianlupo
I think he just has to get used to it, Donkey. When using those kind of devices, if you simply turn your head, the view at 6 o'clock will be centered on the headrest, like in the default view. You have to tilt the head in a direction or another to actually view what's on your 6. And, while with a hat switch you can just save the head position with F10, you can't do that with a head tracking program and have to get used to turn and move your head.
Fugitive, I'm glad to know that it works, thanks for sharing. Sooner or later I'll find the time to build one of those set up.... :)
Ahh ok, wasn't really sure what he meant by that.
donkey
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(http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/1205/mc7pf.jpg)
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Awesome, I could probably build something myself.
and maybe a better looking
:p
EDIT:
How long does that battery last? Typical 9 volt alkalines are roughly 250mah. But I have access to lithium 9 volts which are around 1200mah. Or I could rig up some CR123's in series. The options are endless.
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Blasa wood would work even better. Would not have as much weight and easy to use.
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Congrats Fugitive - I'm a big fan of this freeware.
May i suggest you play around with the sensitivity curves instead of the deadspot. This way you can scale the head movements, giving you a fairly still centre and still the abilty to snap round to your six with about a 20 degree turn.
I'm sure a search in the hardware section of this forum will result in some profiles to try out.
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Originally posted by DoNKeY
So with a duel core or whatever, the hit should be less? And what do you mean exactly by the "6 view sucks?"
Thanks,
donkey
If you use a decent camera, you most likely won't see any drop in FPS with a DUO core.
The 6 view centered on the headrest. By sliding my head to the left and right I can see around it, but I'm just use to the saved view being a good view right off.
Originally posted by Fulmar
Awesome, I could probably build something myself.
and maybe a better looking
EDIT:
How long does that battery last? Typical 9 volt alkalines are roughly 250mah. But I have access to lithium 9 volts which are around 1200mah. Or I could rig up some CR123's in series. The options are endless.
Now that I know it works, ya I could make a prettier one! :p Not sure how long the battery lasts, got about 4 hours on this one, with all the testing and tweaking.
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Forgot to mention batteries not the only way to go - my rig uses an old 15v 800mA AC-DC adapter from some christmas lights. Just got factor in root2 'cos of the rectifier for the resistance calculation and have a wire dangling but saves on batteries :)
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Now that I know it works, ya I could make a prettier one! Not sure how long the battery lasts, got about 4 hours on this one, with all the testing and tweaking.
Fiberglass cast
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Originally posted by Flint
Congrats Fugitive - I'm a big fan of this freeware.
May i suggest you play around with the sensitivity curves instead of the deadspot. This way you can scale the head movements, giving you a fairly still centre and still the abilty to snap round to your six with about a 20 degree turn.
I'm sure a search in the hardware section of this forum will result in some profiles to try out.
So Flint, do you have thwe dead spot set all the way down? Thats what I was plying with was the curves to set it slower in the begining, and then pick up as it came around. Can you post a picture of your scaling, or should I PM you my address?
Thanks for any help.
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I've got a TrackIR and other then for MSFS thought it was pretty much useless. Still sitting in a box waiting to go on scambay.
...-Gixer
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lol, I wouldn't be able to piece all that together.
They should call it GhettoTracKIR though.
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Originally posted by Gixer
I've got a TrackIR and other then for MSFS thought it was pretty much useless. Still sitting in a box waiting to go on scambay.
...-Gixer
Track IR made me almost nauseous the first few times I used it. Now, I would hate to play without it.
My kids had no problem adjusting to it almost instantly, and are really excited to try out this rig - something that they can afford.
Gixer - I believe I could convince them to send you a crisp twenty or so for your track IR, if you wanted to save the hassle of ebay. :)
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I tried the free-track thing a month or two ago with a cheap web-cam and a 3-point cap-mounted setup (i found it was more consistent than the 3 point clip option). In fact it was better than the 4-point cap model. I wired it up to use the 5v from the USB port and it worked ok. I spend a lot of time setting up my curves to make it more to my liking. And i found it best to disable the head-roll axis all together - that helped LOTS. So it was only a 5 DOF system with the 3-point cap and IR LEDs and IR filter on camera.
I spent plenty of time offline practicing and some time in the DA against sqaud mates with it trying to get used to it and build up the muscle-memory required to use it without having to think about it, but i found it too disorienting and couldnt think of any genuine advantages that it could offer a standard 8-way and UP modifier view-system on my throttle.
The one thing that really bugged me was when you are looking backwards you have this enourmous head-rest in your six view and when you move in the intuitive direction to move your head around it your head moves in the opposite direction. So to move your head around the head-rest, you needed to do the opposite head motion to what you think, which gets really confusing.
Interesting experiment and kinda cool to geek around with that sort of thing, but its now retired and im happy without it...
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Originally posted by wreckedem
Gixer - I believe I could convince them to send you a crisp twenty or so for your track IR, if you wanted to save the hassle of ebay. :)
A crisp twenty, sounds good!
Just add another $100 for postage and you've got a deal. :D
...-Gixer
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Originally posted by Spatula
couldnt think of any genuine advantages that it could offer a standard 8-way and UP modifier view-system on my throttle.
Agreed. Plus, I don't want RSI in my neck :cry
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Originally posted by Gixer
A crisp twenty, sounds good!
Just add another $100 for postage and you've got a deal. :D
...-Gixer
lol
the kids complain that my stuff is better than theirs - I just remind them how important it is to get a good job, so they can buy better toys!:lol
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Originally posted by Gixer
A crisp twenty, sounds good!
Just add another $100 for postage and you've got a deal. :D
...-Gixer
:rofl :rofl :rofl
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Originally posted by The Fugitive
So Flint, do you have thwe dead spot set all the way down? Thats what I was plying with was the curves to set it slower in the begining, and then pick up as it came around. Can you post a picture of your scaling, or should I PM you my address?
Thanks for any help.
I just built one a week ago..works great, got the cam (logicrap)37 bucks and LEDs 4 bucks(still playing with the settings)other than the reversed six view(lean left to look right)it works well. The poor mans TrackIR:D
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OK, So I've been playing around with this thing for a couple of weeks. Here are my final thoughts.....
Software- while the "manual" is not very detailed, playing around with settings and testing the results gives you a good idea of whats what. The program itself works great, and with a good camera really doesn't hit a system very hard. My 3.2 gig CPU, 3 gig of ram, had no trouble running it and the game (didn't use FSautostart, running with 30 processes). The program works as advertised, and has a great price.....free :D
Hardware- Getting the parts and putting it together wasn't that tough for someone use to working with there hands. I think pretty much anyone with the "will" to make one could stumble through and get it right. A good camera is easy enough to come by and helps a lot, don't skimp on the camera.
Game use- Fun !!! dare I say, A BLAST !!! In 1 vs 1, or 1 vs 2 its makes the game so emersive its unbelievable! Of course flying from MY SIMPIT (http://airmafia.com/mafia/md_simpit/index.htm) doesn't hurt!! Once you get use to moving your head to change the views it makes it very easy to track a target and keep him in view. Even with 2 bogie's it was easy enough to keep track, and the view movement was smooth and quick enough.
Now, the three things I didn't like about it... 6 view, furballs, and centering up for the shot.
The 6 view is the headrest, then you have to slide your head to look around the headrest. You can get use to it ( I did) but I felt I was "wasting time" sliding around looking for the bogie. Hitting the "look back" with the hat view set was snap on quick. In single combat, or 1 vs 2 its easier to try and keep the bogie's forward of your 3-9 line so a 6 view isn't as important, furballs on the other hand.....
Furballs are tough. Multiple targets keep you scanning all the time, so the views are "swooping" around all the time making it a bit harder for me to keep track of a bunch of targets.
Centering up for the shot, you will be surprised at how much you move around when flying (thats why the wife laughs every time she walks in the room when your flying you know :) ) In a good fight fight your looking for the shot, and I mean the more than just figuratively. Most shots are are crossing shot, and with the views in a "free movment" mode your shot pictures are different. Sometimes your looking higher over the nose, other times more from one side than the other. It really messes with your aim. Having a "front view button" helps center you up.
Over all I really liked it. It was fun putting together and tweaking it. Game play was a blast and if I spent all my time dueling or milk running in EW or MW :p I'd stick with it, but seeing as I do neither, and you very seldom find 1 vs 1 in the MAs I'll be retiring mine. Should someone want to buy mine, $30 plus what ever it cost to ship it to ya. No charge for handling, or labor charges :D If your thinking about doing this, I'd say go for it !!! Its not that tuff to build and it really is a lot of fun in the game.
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I found that if you un-check the relative TIR box in settings you can look back without the zoom on the headrest and can get a good view of your own six(and zoom in by leaning foward if needed)
Also in the setting of Freetrack(set up) changing the spacing Instead of 100X80x70 for the three light hat drop it five or ten or raise it will chang how it moves and responds to your input.
Mine seems to lock up and shut down if I move my head outside "the box" for more than a few seconds. Like to take a swig-o-beer:D
other than that I like it and it is a cheap way to get the benifits of TIR
EDIT I just need one of those hats with beer holders and a tube..there lock up problem solved:lol
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see... put some LEDs on it and Im good till refill time:D
(http://www.geocities.com/blackwolf_927/5aaf_1.JPG)
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You can go to the hardware store and get a pair of safety glasses with twin LED's on both sides just replace the LED's with the IR's you will just have to add a third im going to give it a shot and i'll let ya know if it works
:aok
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Is drinking beer and flying safe? Kids read these forums;)
How many people would you say, use the TIR?
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So how does this compare with the Wii trackIR?
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How much is the cheapest method of making an IR cost? I've donated my 3 track IRs to the MS Society and I was thinking about making a few if the price was low enough...
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You can do a whole setup for like $30-40. Depends on the camera you use and if you buy the LED in bulk and such.
Its basically the same thing as the Wii thing that was posted, but a camera is a bit cheaper to buy than a Wii remote.
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The Wii solution seems to work the best, by far.
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I built one according to youre specs Fugitive although i used standard red LED's instead of IR LED's, I also found if you split a standard floppy disk case remove the disk and use it as the ambient light filter superglue it over the lens it works very good and first off ITS AWESOME works very well i made the 3- point cap model, and after a week or so of messing with the settings and curves, profiles and stuff i finally got it workin good. Thanks for the post really cool tool for this game.
:aok :aok
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Isn't it more effective to just use an 8-way top hat?
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This thread actually got me into buying and building this current setup.
Cost: Webcame (Ebay) - $20
LEDs and resistors - $6-7
Battery: $4 for Lithium, $.85 for an Alkaline
Everything else was scavenged.
Items Used:
1 x Baseball cap
1 x Metal Coat Hanger
1 x Lithium 9v (you can use Alkaline)
1 x On/Off Dip Switch (from a hair dryer)
2 x 100 ohm 1/8 watt resistors
3 x 1.2v IR LEDs
2 x 30" of wire
Tape
Solder & Soldering Iron
Velcro
1 x Microsoft VX-1000 Webcam
1 x Floppy disk (used to replace the removed IR Filter on the Webcam - blocks out visible light) - see website for details on this
So far, works like a charm. I do not take an FPS hit in game on my E6400, 4gb RAM, and an 8800GTS 640mb. A few bugs with the software and webcam. If the webcame power LED is on and I open Free-Track, the program will crash right away one I hit 'Start' on the program, just have to unplug the webcam and plug it back in to fix this. I get a little jittering with tracking my head movement sometimes, I'll have to play with the sensitivity of Free-Track and possibly reposition the LEDs a tad.
A 3 point cap setup. The frame is made out of the coat hanger. Used a little Solder to hold it together.
(http://derstuhl.com/images/ah/DSCF0176_sm.jpg)
Lithium 9V power supply. A ON/OFF switch from a hair dryer. A resistors in-line on the positive cable.
(http://derstuhl.com/images/ah/DSCF0177_sm.jpg)
Probably the weakest point of the design, the LEDs are held in place by a double sided tape and packing tape.
(http://derstuhl.com/images/ah/DSCF0178_sm.jpg)
Microsoft VX-1000 Webcam mounted upside down on my desk, right about the monitor.
(http://derstuhl.com/images/ah/DSCF0185_sm.jpg)
Flight Video in an ME163
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pEOGeBMTDQ
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I made me one of these just after xmas, dang its cool. Now if i play other games that dont support it i find myself turning my head any going "What the..? Oh.. right"
Check 6 is no prob for me. I find it easiest to have the 'Relative aircraft movement' thingo checked - rather then turning back and looking straight at the chair then trying to slide around it i just think 'behind and left' or 'behind and right' and do it in one motion. Imagine where i'm trying to look rather than thinking about controlling my views if that makes any sense.
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i cured the jittering on mine by turning the outside ring on the webcam and focus the camera lens takes some fine tuneing but it cured mine of this problem.
I built mine directly into the cap
(http://[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/smokey23_photos/trackcap.jpg)[/IMG]
i used the VX-3000
(http://[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/smokey23_photos/cam1.jpg)[/IMG]
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Originally posted by smokey23
i cured the jittering on mine by turning the outside ring on the webcam and focus the camera lens takes some fine tuneing but it cured mine of this problem.
Good to know, I'll give it a try.
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Running a file along the rounded tops of the LEDs helps focus the "light" too. A rounded top spreads the light, a flat top beams the light. I was surprised at how much brighter mine seemed after I flattened them.
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thats a good point fugitive I also did that i ran it first without fileing the ends flat and then after fileing the tips and i must agree after flattening the tips of the LED's really did help.
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heres a lame short vid i made just messin with the Poormans trackIR that i made useing the fugitive instructions it works great
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/smokey23_photos/pics/th_Feb15-2008-05-44PM.jpg) (http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/smokey23_photos/pics/?action=view¤t=Feb15-2008-05-44PM.flv)