Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Aircraft and Vehicles => Topic started by: j500ss on March 07, 2008, 05:40:06 PM
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First off hello all, yes I'm new, been here about a month. My problem is that when i first started here I was dead set on flying the hog. About a week age while geting some pointers from Mountain Man :aok he had me turn off stall limiter, ok fine I had not realized it was on. Now when I nose it over at near stall speed I go into a wicked spin that no matter what I try, I end up drilling a hole in the ground.
Its to the point I'm ready to call it quits. I have yet to find a plane I like as much with the exception of the 38. This is something I have spent alot of time trying o figure out a solution to, and it has taken away from me working on things I really need to work on like SA. I need tons of help in that aspect. There is one individual in the TA that takes me out in like less that 30 seconds, I make the wrong or no reaction at all every time.
Any input on the spin issue sure would be appreciated.
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Can you post a few film examples?
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You might try checking your control sensitivity. If it's up too high it could cause stick input to be exaggerated.
Also, as far as learning the F4U my recommendation is to keep her fast until you start getting the feel for just how far you can push her. 250-350mph I'd say is the "butter zone."
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I don't think it's stick sensitivity. I've flown with my all of my sliders all the way up at the top for years, and am convinced it works the best for me. At this setting, 10% stick throw=10% control surface movement, 50% stick= 50% control surface movement, and 100%= 100%. To me, that makes the most sense.
As to the spin, I'd say it would be a good idea to hit the TA and intentionally get yourself into some, just to fix them again. The basic formula for spin recovery is to lay off the ailerons and rudder (neutralize them), and get your nose down (down elevator). Once your nose is down, apply rudder opposite the direction of spin, until the spin stops and simply becomes a dive. Dive a second or two more to pick up some speed, and gently pull out. If you try to pull out of the dive too quickly, you'll probably throw it back into the spin, but maybe reverse the rotation.
MtnMan
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I'd grab a little alt first too, and I chop the throttle when doing a spin recovery also.
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It just takes practice.
At one month you SHOULD be snap stalling the planes and lawn darting.
Keep at it and try the F4U for another 4-5 months at least.
THEN see how you are doing.
You should probably grab one of our fantastic Trainers and have them work with you.
You would be amazed at what 1 hour with a trainer can do for ya'.
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Well Saxman, you hit it :aok Scaling was turned off on the ailerons, and sliders all the way to the top. Since the readjustment it has been much better handling and recovery. I did however notice that my rudder axis calibration number is constantly changing with no inputs, so I'm in the market for a new stick. Any reccomendations? Should I be looking for a stick / pedal combination? Any advise is better than none at all, so I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks
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Stick and pedal is ideal. You get more response from pedals than you can with a twisty stick. However if this is outside your budget a twisty-stick is adequate.
<shameless plug> BTW, if you're serious about the F4U and fly Rooks, you might want to check out my squadron. </shameless plug> :D
VMF-251 Headquarters (http://vmfs52-buccaneers.netprism.net)
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I did however notice that my rudder axis calibration number is constantly changing with no inputs
Thanks
That happens sometimes, just recalibrate that axis and it should stop. You might want to check this every once in awhile and recalibrate it as needed.
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Sometimes even when calibrated your input might spike a little. Sometimes it's minor (it's just barely between two different levels and the input goes back and forth between the same 2 numbers) -- and you can deal with it with just a little bit of deadband on that axis. Sometimes it's debilitating (such as on certain Logitech products) and it's best to unmap it entirely or get a new stick.
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I am against scaling anything but my rudder. Just get tighter springs, and fool around getting used to it for a week.... you'll wish you never scaled anything.
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I am against scaling anything but my rudder. Just get tighter springs, and fool around getting used to it for a week.... you'll wish you never scaled anything.
I like 'em tight. I'd probably be using my Cougar set had the machinist I sent it to ever sent it back.
Know where I can get a set for a CH stick? I'm thinking about getting a second so I can break one replacing the pots with hall sensors. Aready have the hall devices...
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I like 'em tight.
:rock
:D