Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: 1701E on June 17, 2008, 09:11:56 PM
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I have an AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400+ 2.3GHz Processor, and i have what one person says is abnormally low temps. My CPU Idles at 19-22C with Core 1 ranging from -6 to +5C (normally) and Core 2 ranging from 13 to 20C. I was wondering if this is normal or if something may be messed up? If a sensor is messed up how would i be able to tell? If need be i can replace the Motherboard if it's a big problem (1 year warranty w/ 11months left :D).
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What program are you using to read the temps? Motherboard software? BIOS? Speedfan?
19-22C is about 66-71F. What is the ambient room temp where the computer is?
-6 to 5C is about 21-41F. Unless you're living in Alaska in winter time, your computer is in the freezer, or you have a liquid nitrogen cooling system, this is impossible. I'd try check the temp with different programs. If they all read the same, its a faulty sensor.
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Room temp stays around 68-74F. I live in NC not Alaska :aok. No liquid cooling of any kind. I have used a few programs: BIOS, Everest, and one that came with the Mobo (forget the name). The only special thing about my cooling is that i have a fan pointed right at it (PC is between me and fan).
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I think we can safely say you have a gubbed sensor.
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Idle temps are useless you need to run a program like Orthos + Core Temp and monitor temps under 100% continuous load for at least 20mins.
<S>...-Gixer
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True, but you realize that -6C is 6 under freezing, correct? :D
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I think we can safely say it's not reading the temps correctly.
First off, I'd uninstall your temp monitoring SW. Then reboot your machine and enter the BIOS on reboot. Select defaults and save them, then exit BIOS and boot up. Shut down again and unplug the power cord for a few minutes to clear the CMOS. Now reboot and reinstall your monitoring SW and see what it says. If it looks normal (27-35C at idle on both cores), then you can shut down and reset any custom settings in the BIOS on reboot.
At least this will eliminate any potential SW problems as causes.
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Shut down again and unplug the power cord for a few minutes to clear the CMOS.
In order for this to work, you need to remove the CMOS battery. It's a CR3032 coin battery located somewhere on the motherboard. To remove it, push on the little piece of metal protruding from one of the sides, away from the battery. It should unlatch itself and halfway pop out. It's best of you touch the battery itself as little as possible.
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It's best of you touch the battery itself as little as possible.
No need to. I sold thousands of various CR lithium coin cells during my term at Batteries Plus back in the day. They're not fragile or going to shock you. I wouldn't put them in a pocket full of change, but don't have be too concerned about it.
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Well I uninstalled the software and reset CMOS and defaulted BIOS (again). Even after that it stays the same. Even if i play games for long hours it stays around CPU 25, Core 1 @ 11, Core 2 @ 23. Is a faulty sensor anything worth worrying about? If need be i can replace it, but i'd rather not if it's not a problem.
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Well I uninstalled the software and reset CMOS and defaulted BIOS (again). Even after that it stays the same. Even if i play games for long hours it stays around CPU 25, Core 1 @ 11, Core 2 @ 23. Is a faulty sensor anything worth worrying about? If need be i can replace it, but i'd rather not if it's not a problem.
Probably not other than in the fact that you have no idea what temps your CPU is actually running at. Considering that, I would never OC that CPU as OCing creates heat and not knowing how much might fry the CPU. It's probably also limiting your CPU fan speed so I'd turn that up a bit manually, or alternately set the activation temps low enough to match your bad sensor.
Other than that it's probably fine plus, you don't really know if the bad part is on the mobo or the CPU itself (I'd guess mobo first). You might want to check the manufacturers web-site forums and see if anyone else has experienced the same thing. There might even be a fix for it.
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Other than that it's probably fine plus, you don't really know if the bad part is on the mobo or the CPU itself (I'd guess mobo first). You might want to check the manufacturers web-site forums and see if anyone else has experienced the same thing. There might even be a fix for it.
That's true, a simple BIOS flash may solve the problem.
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No need to. I sold thousands of various CR lithium coin cells during my term at Batteries Plus back in the day. They're not fragile or going to shock you. I wouldn't put them in a pocket full of change, but don't have be too concerned about it.
The point is to not get oil on the battery. It reduces the connection quality and over time will corrode the battery and its holder. In today's world of throwing computers out every couple months it generally doesn't matter, but it's a good practice.
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The amount of oil required from one's hands would have to be the sweatest man alive x 5 to prevent a good connection. Corrosion on the coin cells caused by one's oil on their hands would be extremely rare. The clips that the CR2032's sit in generally have a good covered of the sides (sides and top are positive) and a large surface bottom (negative). So even if some corrosion would develop, it is unlikely to spread to all contact areas of the batteries.
Now if the batteries is exposed to a splash of water or high moisture, it's possible that water molecules could connect the (+) and (-) of the battery (since their are pretty close together) and begin to short the battery out.
The shorting of the battery could cause a leaking of the battery which could corrode with the metal of the battery and the clip.
If you do find a motherboard with a coin cell that had corroded, it's more than likely caused by water/moisture damage or a faulty safety vent on the coin cell that either ruptured or did not allow the battery to vent (which is extremely rare).
In all the applications I've seen lithium coin cells used (memory batch up, watches, led lights, key fabs, and 1000's of other applications), the few corroded ones out of thousands I encountered were caused by water damage.
Now if we were talking about a silver oxide or alkaline watch battery (such as a SR626SW/377 or smaller) with a far smaller surface area, the chance of a film developing preventing a good contact on the a similar smaller surface contact area is much greater. Developing a film on these smaller batteries in watches that have stopped ticking (yet batteries yield a voltage about 1.4V) is generally caused by either a bad watch movement or a film that has developed on the watch battery (simple rubbing off on a cloth fixes this).