Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: Fulmar on June 19, 2008, 12:13:51 AM
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I just put an Arctic Freezer 7 (from stock HSF) and reapplied Arctic Silver 5 on my non-oc'd E6400. I haven't reached the 200 hours burn in time (maybe 150 or so now) for the Silver yet...but I haven't registered any temperatures changes in my CPU or Core temps. Before on stock HSF, I was getting high 30's to low 40's Idle CPU temps (non-core) and high 40's to low 50's core temps. Add about 10-12C on each for load temps.
I'm still getting the same temps...
Now I do have a lot of stuff in my case and the case design isn't the greatest. Especially for air intake in the front as the HD cage sits behind the front intake fan (see pic below). The northbride passive heatsink is one flaw of the Asus P5N-E SLI board. It features no fan. I've made my own that does a good job. The chipset runs about 50C (surface on the heatsink) without a fan and about 5-8C cooler when using 2 40mm fans (homemade!) attach on top of the heatsink.
Specs
Intel E6400
Asus P5N-E SLI board 650i Nvidia chipset
8800 GTS 640mb
X-FI Fatality
USB expansion PCI card
DVD-ROM
DVD-RW
2 x 250gb Maxtor's (run about 38-40C on surface)
3.5" Memory card reader
600W Xclio Greatpower PSU
Cooling
Front 80mm Intake
Side Window 120mm Intake
Rear 120mm Exhaust
Top 800mm Exhaust
2 x 40mm Chipset fans
Arctic Freezer 7
Arctic Silver 5
PSU 140mm exhaust fan (on the bottom of PSU directly above the CPU)
(http://www.derstuhl.net/images/AK-47_notext.jpg)
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When I first built my system my temps were pretty low (27-28C idle and under 50C loaded). Since a BIOs update to correct a video corruption problem it seems like my temps went up. Now I run mid 30's idle and mid 50's at load. It's also summer now and the ambient room temp is higher (70F+ vs 68F) so I'm sure that's part of it. Coming out of AH I'm still always under 50C.
At stock settings I can run Prime95 at 100% CPU load and hold temps under 60C, but as soon as I bump my FSB to 1600 for a mild 3.2 Gig overclock (from 2.66 Gig) I'll run over 60C. Normally, I'll stop Prime if I hit 61-62C. I've got my fan set to 1% at 27C and 100% at 57C and it, of course, varies in speed between those settings.
This is all with a stock Intel heatsink/fan and stock Intel thermal paste.
I bought some Arctic Silver 5 this week and I'm thinking about trying to re-seat the heatsink/fan on Friday. I don't really need to but I'd also really like to get a little more out of the CPU without having to worry about heat. I'm guessing that I have a small air pocket somewhere on top of the CPU.
I do have a northbridge fan set at 100% (~40C) and I'm using Riva Tuner to hold my GPU fan at 70% (under 50C). Like you, my front fan blows across the HD cages and I have 3 HD's in the way.
Specs:
Coolermaster Cavalier
EVGA NVidia NForce 780i
Intel E6750 Conroe 2.66Ghz
Kingston HyperX DDR2 800 2x1Gb
EVGA 8800 GTS G92 512
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro
PC Power & Cooling S75QB 750W PSU
Seagate Barracuda 250 Gb SATA HD
Seagate 200 Gb ATA HD
Seagate 160 Gb ATA HD
Asus SATA 20x DVD+R DVD Burner
Asus SATA DVD-ROM
Microsoft Windows XP Pro With SP2C
LG 22" 2ms Widescreen LCD
Klipsch Promedia 78 watts 2.1 Speaker
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This is the heatsink/CPU fan I use on my system, Xigmatek HDT-S1283. Works great, keeps the CPU nice and cool and very quiet.
(http://www.mediadot.ro/img/produse/cooler-xigmatek-hdt-s1283.jpg)
In addition to the HDT heatsink, I also have 1 80mm fan as a front intake, 2 80mm fans as rear exhaust, 1 250mm side window intake and 1 80mm HDD cooling fan. A few days after overclocking, I ran Prime95 to test my sytem and Core Temp to check the temperature. After running Prime95 for 5 hours (full CPU load on both cores), my CPU never got higher than 41 degrees celsius and I've got my E6420 overclocked to 3.15Ghz.
ack-ack
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With a high end air cooler Intel Dual Core CPU's (with a good 40-50% overclock) shouldn't really be breaking 50 deg under continuous load. Trying lowering CPU voltage. Set Ram to 1:1 ratio (try stock voltage first and timings) and set NB Vcore to stock any issues (first indication can be scratchy sound) up NB Vcore one small voltage notch.
Only work with tiny voltage increases on CPU, don't jump 10 volts. And always be very very careful with NB Vcore.
If you are still getting high CPU Vcore temps, check that you haven't reduced the CPU cooling efficiency by applying too much Thermal Paste. Only requires a tiny amount.
<S>...-Gixer
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With a high end air cooler Intel Dual Core CPU's (with a good 40-50% overclock) shouldn't really be breaking 50 deg under continuous load. Trying lowering CPU voltage. Set Ram to 1:1 ratio (try stock voltage first and timings) and set NB Vcore to stock any issues (first indication can be scratchy sound) up NB Vcore one small voltage notch.
That's the thing though. I'm at stock. I haven't OC'd in about a year. So my voltages are at stock/auto values.
BaldEagl did mention that it is summer time, which my comp does run hotter, 5C+ on average. I guess what I'm trying to get at is I would have liked to see a drop in temps rather than no improvement at all. When I reinstalled with the HSF I cleaned up the cable mess I had going on, so airflow should be better than what it was before. My IDE cables are round, I've used to have a SB Audigy with the 5.25" Drive that had the big old flat cable (now removed). Most cables are hidden or at least tucked out of the way as much as possible.
I do not have my homemade northbridge fan on now because it developed a loose connection is the wiring, so I need to repair that.
I do know that since my 8800 is so large the intake air in the front is most likely not reaching the top part of the motherboard where my CPU is. That intake fan is essentially between those two hard drives in front of the case.
The reviews I've read on the Freezer 7 have been very good. My friend has one in his E6320 and his OC temps where better than what I had stock. But he has the Antec 900 case...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021
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Fulmar,
I use a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II cooler on my Northbridge:
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/My%20gaming%20rig/ThermaltakeNBcooler.jpg)
It is pretty cheap (around $17) and runs very quietly. It does a great job. I put one on my Southbridge too though that was probably a bit of overkill. Nice thing about this cooler is you can move it around at different angles to dodge big stuff like the 8800 etc.
Yes, the Antec 900 is a fantastic case. I bought one earlier this year and have been amazed how much better the system cools with it.
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Fulmar,
I use a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II cooler on my Northbridge:
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/My%20gaming%20rig/ThermaltakeNBcooler.jpg)
It is pretty cheap (around $17) and runs very quietly. It does a great job. I put one on my Southbridge too though that was probably a bit of overkill. Nice thing about this cooler is you can move it around at different angles to dodge big stuff like the 8800 etc.
Yes, the Antec 900 is a fantastic case. I bought one earlier this year and have been amazed how much better the system cools with it.
That chipset cooler does look nice; however, it would not fit in my case. If you look at that photo, just below the 'fins' on the HSF you can see a little Green/White checkered thing. It's actually a double sided tape that separates my HSF and the passive heatsink on the northbridge. Without it they would touch. So space is really tight there. The heastink is covered by my homemade fans in the pic, but here is a photo of the motherboard w/o anything on it. It shows you how large that chipset heatsink is.
(http://flourishcomputer.com/products/desktop/desktop_right/motherboard/asus/p2nesli/p5n_e_sli.jpg)
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I just put an Arctic Freezer 7 (from stock HSF) and reapplied Arctic Silver 5 on my non-oc'd E6400. I haven't reached the 200 hours burn in time (maybe 150 or so now) for the Silver yet...but I haven't registered any temperatures changes in my CPU or Core temps. Before on stock HSF, I was getting high 30's to low 40's Idle CPU temps (non-core) and high 40's to low 50's core temps. Add about 10-12C on each for load temps.
I'm still getting the same temps...
Now I do have a lot of stuff in my case and the case design isn't the greatest. Especially for air intake in the front as the HD cage sits behind the front intake fan (see pic below). The northbride passive heatsink is one flaw of the Asus P5N-E SLI board. It features no fan. I've made my own that does a good job. The chipset runs about 50C (surface on the heatsink) without a fan and about 5-8C cooler when using 2 40mm fans (homemade!) attach on top of the heatsink.
Specs
Intel E6400
Asus P5N-E SLI board 650i Nvidia chipset
8800 GTS 640mb
X-FI Fatality
USB expansion PCI card
DVD-ROM
DVD-RW
2 x 250gb Maxtor's (run about 38-40C on surface)
3.5" Memory card reader
600W Xclio Greatpower PSU
Cooling
Front 80mm Intake
Side Window 120mm Intake
Rear 120mm Exhaust
Top 800mm Exhaust
2 x 40mm Chipset fans
Arctic Freezer 7
Arctic Silver 5
PSU 140mm exhaust fan (on the bottom of PSU directly above the CPU)
(http://www.derstuhl.net/images/AK-47_notext.jpg)
A couple things.. I don't know if you're an amateur or what, so forgive me for asking some stupid questions. First of all, are your case fans pointing in the proper directions(in through the front, out through the back)? As I'm sure you probably know (if they are configured correctly) that this is in issue for many builders who don't think about this when building their system. Again, don't take offense, just asking.. I'm sure they are arranged correctly. :aok
Secondly, as with many cases, the configuration of the exhaust fan mountings are rather illogical. But, due to design limitations, this is all most of us have to work with. Hence, having your front intake fan down low, and the rear exhaust fan higher whilst airflow being blocked (for the most part) by your video card as well as any of the cables that may be in the way. This is where case modding comes in. I'm at work and don't have the time to look or take pictures of my system to show you. For that, I'm sorry. But I'll explain in a nutshell as it's a pretty simple concept.
I no longer use a 3.5" drive so I don't need those bays. Most cases come with 2 bays for a 3.5" drive incase you want to install a zipdrive or front panel card reader or whatever as well as your standard 3.5" floppy drive. Yeah, so I don't use those bays.. I bought two high performance Zalman 3" fans and set them side by side. They actually provide excellent air flow in addition to my 2 120mm case fans.
I had the same issues as you. I installed an Arctic Cooler for my processor along with Arctic Silver and didn't notice much of a difference while idle or under load. I did some research, asked some questions, and found out how important good airflow really was and how the little things can affect it. I have almost all my cables tucked up behind my motherboard. I'm not sure if you'll have room for that or not. I run a pretty lean system and don't have a need for 2 CD\DVD roms or Two hard drives as I use an external if I need extra storage or whatever.
I really strive to have minimal amount of clutter inside the system. Just about every possible is out of the way and is as open as possible. I realize you may not be able to do this as it looks like you're packed in pretty tight.
Oh! One other trick that helped that I didn't really think was important was this: On most cases, you'll have the grilled/perforated metal where your casefan/fans are supposed to be mounted. I read in a few forums that this metal actually restricts airflow and you'd get up to 40% better airflow if you remove that metal and use aftermarket fan grill covers. So, I cut out the perforated metal, cleaned out the case (be sure to clean out/vacuum out the case when you're done!! Any stray bits or shavings or metal getting on your motherboard or other components and kiss them goodbye!), and replaced them with the after market grill fan covers and I saw a pretty big drop in case ambient temps!
So, yeah.... You can try some of this stuff. May help, may not. But I think at least a little bit of your problem lies in how your fans are position inside that case (airflow being partially or mostly blocked by your video card) as well as how your cables are positioned. I use to be a big fan of molded IDE cables, but they seem rather bulky compared to a high end flat 80 pin IDE cable. The flat cables can be easily tucked behind your motherboard. Plus, molded cables are more expensive as well.
One other thing I noticed: I can't tell by the picture too well, but it looks like you have 4 sticks of memory in that machine, yes? I assume you're using dual channel DDR2, yes? Your memory is configured wrong inside your case unless they've made a major change to how memory should be positioned (which I don't think they have). In order to use dual channel efficiently, you should have one matched pair on one channel, and the other matched pair on the other channel. In your case, have two different brands of memory paired up on one channel and 2 different brands paired up on the other. This can cause problems. I would suggest you put your Crucial Ballistix (looks like Crucial Ballistix by the color but if I'm wrong tell me) in memory slots 1 and 3, and what ever other brand the other stuff is (looks like OCZ but again I may be wrong) on 2 and 4. This way, you'll have a matched pair on one channel and a match pair on the other. :rock
Again, sorry if any of the info I told you is redundant and I didn't mean to offend. <S>
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Nice catch on the RAM configuration Anodizer.
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Anodizer, thanks for the input. I wouldn't be an amateur (but no offense taken)
#1 Fans are configured correctly
#2 Gotta leave the 3.5 Memory card reader (I do a lot of photos for myself, friends, and family)
#3 I do run 1 DVD-RW drive and 1 DVD-Rom. I could take out the DVD-Rom. I leave it there for conviences of leaving game disks in the drive.
#4 My side intake fan does have a mesh screen on it. I can see where it may restrict flow of air a big. It is handy as it keeps my case cat hair free. I'll try removing it
#5 The DDR2. As funny as it looks, those sticks of RAM are identical in every aspect other than physical appearance. The exact part numbers for both G.Skill sets. One set I bought with the system in Jan '07 and another set in May '07. G.Skill changed the appearance for whatever reason. But I doubled checked the system specs in various programs reporting the model # of the ram chips and they are the same. I keep them in that arrangement as it looks prettier to me :) My motherboard reports dual channel is properly configured and running as well.
But good eye.
I do believe the source of the problem is poor intake airflow. And I'll look at options to increasing airflow.
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BTW, this is my case. Check the Newegg pics for close-ups.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146018
I may remove the front door and place a 5.25" Bay Intake fan system. I'll keep my eye out.
EDIT: Something like this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835888104
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Anodizer, thanks for the input. I wouldn't be an amateur (but no offense taken)
#1 Fans are configured correctly
#2 Gotta leave the 3.5 Memory card reader (I do a lot of photos for myself, friends, and family)
#3 I do run 1 DVD-RW drive and 1 DVD-Rom. I could take out the DVD-Rom. I leave it there for conviences of leaving game disks in the drive.
#4 My side intake fan does have a mesh screen on it. I can see where it may restrict flow of air a big. It is handy as it keeps my case cat hair free. I'll try removing it
#5 The DDR2. As funny as it looks, those sticks of RAM are identical in every aspect other than physical appearance. The exact part numbers for both G.Skill sets. One set I bought with the system in Jan '07 and another set in May '07. G.Skill changed the appearance for whatever reason. But I doubled checked the system specs in various programs reporting the model # of the ram chips and they are the same. I keep them in that arrangement as it looks prettier to me :) My motherboard reports dual channel is properly configured and running as well.
But good eye.
I do believe the source of the problem is poor intake airflow. And I'll look at options to increasing airflow.
Didn't think you were an amateur.. But ya never know! :aok
Anyhow...Yeah, just wanted to be sure you had that configured correctly.. You wouldn't believe how many systems I run into that have the memory installed improperly. Good luck on any modifications you may need to do! :rock <<S>>
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Nice catch on the RAM configuration Anodizer.
TY sir...<S> :rock
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BTW, this is my case. Check the Newegg pics for close-ups.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146018
I may remove the front door and place a 5.25" Bay Intake fan system. I'll keep my eye out.
EDIT: Something like this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835888104
Yeah, by the looks of it, you can cut out the grilled metal on the front and back and install this (http://www.endpcnoise.com/e/images/wire_grill.jpg) as this will give you better airflow.
Also that fan you listed is pretty much what I made and it works wonders!
Good luck bro! <S> :rock
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The side window has the grill shape cut into the plastic window. Between the window and the fan is a plastic type mesh thingy (removeable) that really does the blocking (So its Window | Mesh | Fan).
I'm going to look at at replacing the 120mm fans with higher RPM ones (I don't mind the noise) and a front 5.25" HD cooler with now HD in it so it acts as pure intake. But this depends on how easy the front door will come off.
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I re-seated my CPU fan/heatsink today. As I suspected, the thermal grease application wasn't complete across the entire contact patch. I cleaned it all off then put a couple of drops of arctic silver on the heatsink contact, then I spread it with a plastic putty knife, making sure it was totally covered with a very thin layer. I was glad that I didn't have to remove the mobo to re-seat it.
So I fired it up and ran a short, ten string (1 string for each core 5 times) Prime95 test at 100% load on both cores. Temps at stock settings never exceeded 55C. The test ran 7 minutes.
Then I rebooted to BIOS and set my FSB up to 1600 for a 3.2 Ghz clock and ran Prime95 again. After five string sets, temps had climbed to 68C and 70C. The test lasted 6 minutes but the temps were more than I was comfortable with, so I went back into the BIOS and noticed that the auto voltages had re-set CPU Core from 1.2xx to 1.4 volts. I had documentation from others that at 3.2 Ghz I should be able to get by with 1.3-1.35 volts, so I set it down to 1.3.
The system wouldn't boot. So I tried 1.325 and booted. 2 strings into Prime95 I suffered a fatal crash and had to hard boot.
Entering BIOS again, I noticed that the low end of the "green zone" on my CPU Core was 1.375 volts so I set it there, re-booted and ran Prime again. 5 string sets, 6 minutes, no problems and temps stable at 62C (ambient room temp 74F).
I'm reasonably happy with that. I've got a 12-13% gain in speed from the CPU and I can't really think of a real-world application that's going to run my CPU cores at 100% steady. Idle temps are still in the low to mid 30's and normal operating temps are still under 50C. Although I've heard of people getting close to 4 Ghz at this voltage setting, I don't really want to tr to clock that high as I'm already linked and synced to my RAM (DDR2 800) at it's performance settings (4-4-4-12 at 2.0 V).
I might play with the voltages again tonight and see if I can get them down at all and remain stable. If I can I'm sure my temps will drop a little more.
Just thought I'd share.
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I'm going to give my CPU another 3-4 days burn in on the Arctic Silver and I'll try and reseat and reapply it.
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Update: I got CPU Core voltage to 1.3625 volts (just couldn't quite hit 1.350). Ran Prime95 20 minutes stable never exceeding 61C on core 1 and with core 2 bouncing between 59 and 60C depending on fan speed. Whoohoo... just where I wanted it!
[EDIT] Idle at 33C.
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Fulmar, that is the cleanest looking computer I have ever seen! Where did you get the replacement cables? My computer looks like chernobyl on the inside with all the rebar hanging down. It runs a little cooler though.
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Fulmar, that is the cleanest looking computer I have ever seen! Where did you get the replacement cables? My computer looks like chernobyl on the inside with all the rebar hanging down. It runs a little cooler though.
I used to have anarchy in my cases back in the day. I don't even consider mine clean to some I've seen*. I used zip ties to keep things together and makes it easier on maintenance. Modular cable PSU are really nice, this was my first PSU with it and I'll never go back. You can hook up as many or as little power plugs as you need. The SATA cables are stock one with the board. SATA really cuts the clutter down.
These are the round IDE cables I use. I went with 36" because I like to have extra cable slack rather than barely fit tight cable. They're a good quality construction.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812104403
I just want a reason to replace my 4 year old Plextor DVD-RW for an SATA one...but it keeps on chuggin.'
*The limitations of the design of my case are becoming apparently worse over its 2 year life so far. Also, the placement of some of the plugs on my motherboard are pretty stupid...see 20/24 Pin connector.
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Sweet, I think I may order some. I with you on the SATA DVD. I got one for my mom. Now I'm jealous.
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If your applying thermal compound just stick your finger through a plastic bag and rub it in, all your trying to achive is a tiny layer.
Check your temps against database on the net of same mobo,cpu,cooling and overclock that your seeing the same average wise on temps as everyone else.
Again Intel chips run low voltages, should be high 20's to very low 30's at idle and around 50 at max. If you start off at 1.40+ volts you might not ever get your temps down.
And of course use the very best high end air cooler you can get and fan. Thermalright high coolers are excellent and been using them for few years now. Though check you have the space as they are big.
(http://images.anandtech.com/graphs/nirvana_011608124500/16415.png)
<S>...-Gixer
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Then I rebooted to BIOS and set my FSB up to 1600 for a 3.2 Ghz clock and ran Prime95 again.
don't really want to tr to clock that high as I'm already linked and synced to my RAM (DDR2 800) at it's performance settings (4-4-4-12 at 2.0 V).
Didn't you post that you have a E6750 CPU? What multiplier settings are you using to get 3.2Ghz? With a 8x multiplier it should be at 8x400 for 3.2Ghz (should only need stock low voltage) and ram set to 1:1 800Mhz. Ideally this CPU can hit 4ghz - 4.2ghz easy (high end air) with 8x500 and push the ram to 1000mhz if it can take it or pick up some higher speed Ram.
the 4-4-4-12 are timings, BIOS is needed to set the actual Ram FSB set loose timings and then tighten them up once stable at higher FSB.
Also what model Mobo are you using?
<S>...-Gixer
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Didn't you post that you have a E6750 CPU? What multiplier settings are you using to get 3.2Ghz? With a 8x multiplier it should be at 8x400 for 3.2Ghz (should only need stock low voltage) and ram set to 1:1 800Mhz. Ideally this CPU can hit 4ghz - 4.2ghz easy (high end air) with 8x500 and push the ram to 1000mhz if it can take it or pick up some higher speed Ram.
the 4-4-4-12 are timings, BIOS is needed to set the actual Ram FSB set loose timings and then tighten them up once stable at higher FSB.
Also what model Mobo are you using?
<S>...-Gixer
E6750 @ 8x multi @ 1600 FSB. Can't get stable below 1.3625 V. Stock Intel HS/Fan. EVGA 780i Mobo.Board wants to default RAM to 5-5-5-16 @ 1.85 V on auto. Mfg (Kingston HyperX) recommends 4-4-4-12 @ 2 V (where I have it set).
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Speedfan right now idle. Ambient right now is about 75F. Will post updates after changes (this is pre-change)
(http://www.derstuhl.net/vf31/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=369.0;attach=21;image)
Temp1 and Temp2 are processor temps. Temp 3 is probably an error. The 2nd Temp1 is probbably motherboard. Core0 and Core1 are processor cores. Core is my 8800 GTS.
Case temp sensors readings:
Northbridge (directly on heatsink): 42C
HDD (directly on top of disk): 32C
CPU (placed on top of heatsink, see pic on first post): 32C
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Update:
Removed my spare DVD drive. Removed the side fan filter. Reattached my homemade chipset fan (after some resplicing and oiling of bearings).
CPU temps have not budged. But my Geforce 8800 GTS has dropped 5C. My northbridge now with the 2 fans has droppedd 5-8C. Motherboard temp is still the same.
The front door on my case may be a major pain to remove and I will forgo that route. I may reverse the top 80mm to make it an intake fan because the PSU fan I have is on the bottom of the unit. I know heat rises, but I think the more intake I get, the better.
May replace the stock 120mm fans with some with either more CFM or higher RPM. Con is that it has to have blue LEDs cuz it wouldnt match my black, sliver, blue computer theme!
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Fulmer, D/L either Prime95 or Orthos. Fire it up and run it on short FFT's for 10-20 mins then report temps.
Right now mine are CPU 60C, GPU <50C, NB <40C at 100% CPU load. That's with a .5 Ghz OC and stock Intel HS/Fan. Normal operating temps are lower.
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Fulmer, D/L either Prime95 or Orthos. Fire it up and run it on short FFT's for 10-20 mins then report temps.
Right now mine are CPU 60C, GPU <50C, NB <40C at 100% CPU load. That's with a .5 Ghz OC and stock Intel HS/Fan. Normal operating temps are lower.
I'm running Prime95 right now. Wait! I smell something burning, BRB
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Geeeze how long does it take for Prime95 to run. 3.5 hours now.
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It will run as long as you let it.
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E6750 @ 8x multi @ 1600 FSB. Can't get stable below 1.3625 V. Stock Intel HS/Fan. EVGA 780i Mobo.Board wants to default RAM to 5-5-5-16 @ 1.85 V on auto. Mfg (Kingston HyperX) recommends 4-4-4-12 @ 2 V (where I have it set).
8X Multi (200??) to give 1600 FSB? Should be a reading of 8x400 (Bus Speed) to give 3200Mhz or 8x350 = 2800Mhz. 1600FSB sounds like the rated FSB for the board. Not the actual CPU Bus Speed Multiplier.
Ram settings if still set on Auto you need to change the timings manually in BIOS so that it sets Ram to 1:1 for most efficiency, timings comes second. So if your running Bus Speed at 400Mhz Ram will be 800Mhz 1:1 hence DDR800, Good Ram can be overclocked higher to maintain 1:1 with Bus Speed. Ram Voltage should be at lowest 1.8 on a manual setting. Like CPU VCore if Ram is on Auto it will often choose higher then actually required making your system run hotter.
<S>...-Gixer
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Fulmer, D/L either Prime95 or Orthos. Fire it up and run it on short FFT's for 10-20 mins then report temps.
Right now mine are CPU 60C, GPU <50C, NB <40C at 100% CPU load. That's with a .5 Ghz OC and stock Intel HS/Fan. Normal operating temps are lower.
I've used Prime95 before but only when OCing the CPU. Right now I've been just using high end games and graphing the temps in speedfan on my 2nd LCD monitor while I play. This way I'm getting a work out of my GFX card as well and see how it responds.
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8X Multi (200??) to give 1600 FSB? Should be a reading of 8x400 (Bus Speed) to give 3200Mhz or 8x350 = 2800Mhz. 1600FSB sounds like the rated FSB for the board. Not the actual CPU Bus Speed Multiplier.
Ram settings if still set on Auto you need to change the timings manually in BIOS so that it sets Ram to 1:1 for most efficiency, timings comes second. So if your running Bus Speed at 400Mhz Ram will be 800Mhz 1:1 hence DDR800, Good Ram can be overclocked higher to maintain 1:1 with Bus Speed. Ram Voltage should be at lowest 1.8 on a manual setting. Like CPU VCore if Ram is on Auto it will often choose higher then actually required making your system run hotter.
<S>...-Gixer
Double pumped Dual Core @ 400 Core clock = 1600 FSB (board stock = 1333 FSB. chip stock = 1333 FSB = 333.3 core clock. 8x333.3 = 2.66 Ghz). 8x400 = 3.2 Ghz. RAM linked/synced = 1:1 = 400 Core clock @ DDR2 = DDR2800.
As stared earlier, I only wanted to go far enough to bring my CPU/RAM clocks to 1:1 which I did.
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Overclocking CPU's is a lot easier than overclocking your RAM which can be tricky and unstable (especially developing errors messages in windows).
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Not to be a wiseguy or anything. But you DID remove the MX-2 paste from the Heatsink (which is just as good as Arctic Silver 5) before putting the Arctic Silver on?
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Overclocking CPU's is a lot easier than overclocking your RAM which can be tricky and unstable (especially developing errors messages in windows).
Very true. If your going to overclock RAM to max, keys are to buy best quality Ram you can afford that has tight timings stock,don't mix and match brands or even batches. And that voltage is key at 1:1. Most quality RAM can handle 2.1v, if it's stable from that point then you can work on timings.
Anyway RAm these days have high FSB stock maybe higher then what your CPU can overclock to at 1:1, Plus going past 1:1 and trying to get another inch out of the timings doesn't really gain much of a performance boost anyway.
Think about the CPU your buying what overclock you'd like out of it then purchase 4GB RAM to match for a nice stable 1:1 clock.
<S>...-Gixer
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Anyone use UGuru? It's for abit boards. I was wondering where that timing is for the 1:1.
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Anyone use UGuru? It's for abit boards. I was wondering where that timing is for the 1:1.
Abit boards same for most boards is in BIOS you need to set DRAM Frequency to twice that of CPU Frequency for 1:1
(http://www.overclock3d.net/gfx/articles/2006/12/27145053118l.jpg)
Another tip, PCI Express Freq should be set to 100 not Auto as per this example photo.
<S>...-Gixer
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Anyone use UGuru? It's for abit boards. I was wondering where that timing is for the 1:1.
You have a double pumped dual core processor vs dual data rate RAM. Whatever your RAM speed is, say DDR2800 means it's running at a 400 core clock (dual data rate). To run 1:1 means your processor has to run at the same core clock speed (400 mhz), so you want to set either the CPU core clock to 400 or the FSB to 1600 (400x4 - double pumped dual core) to match clock speeds at 1:1.
Once this is done, you want to run Prime95 or Orthos and check temps. You want to manually set VCore as low as possible to minimize temps and retain stability. This takes tweaking and testing until it crashes, then bump it back up and test again.
If your RAM is very high speed, you may not be able to get 1:1 without excessive heat, at which point you may want to actually underclock the RAM. When OCing, there are usually settings to "LinK" RAM clock to CPU clock and to "Sync" them to 1:1 (linked and synced). This will automatically under-clock faster RAM. If you OC your RAM, you'll probably have to loosen timings to retain stability.
You'll also want to disable Speedstep and all of the other CPU throttlers that automatically reduce voltages and FSB speed to save your CPU in the event of an overheat and disable all spread spectrum settings. These will likely cause you headaches if left enabled.
Also, you can't use NVidea or your motherboard BIOS software tweaking tools, as they will overide your BIOS settings. Any such programs are best left uninstalled. If you want to mess with your GPU seperately, install RivaTuner. It affects only your GPU.
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UPDATE 2:
My overall system temps have dropped by an average of 5C. I added a 80mm fan behind the HD cage to help push more fresh air into the system and it has seemed to help a bid. So its front 80mm - HD cage - 80mm intake - rest of system.
The biggest thing I did was removed the dust filter on my side fan. I saw the biggest decrease in temps after doing that.
My core/cpu temps have really not seen a decrease and will require me to remount the CPU I believe. on load my CPU's are are in the mid to upper 40's and the cores are reaching lower to mid 60's.
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UPDATE 2:
My overall system temps have dropped by an average of 5C. I added a 80mm fan behind the HD cage to help push more fresh air into the system and it has seemed to help a bid. So its front 80mm - HD cage - 80mm intake - rest of system.
The biggest thing I did was removed the dust filter on my side fan. I saw the biggest decrease in temps after doing that.
My core/cpu temps have really not seen a decrease and will require me to remount the CPU I believe. on load my CPU's are are in the mid to upper 40's and the cores are reaching lower to mid 60's.
Have you tried adjusting your CPU fan speed in the BIOS? Leave it on Smartfan but lower the temp where it hits 100%. I've got mine set for 1% @ 27C and 100% @ 55C. Default was something like 1% @ 30C and 100% @ 60C.
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My BIOS supports the Asus 'Quiet Fan.' I believe it's a mere on/off option with no variables. I do remember enabling it a while back but it instantly lowered the CPU fan speed to 600 RPMs, which was way too low. Last time I checked, my CPU fan is doing 2500-3000 RPMs.
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Ordered some higher RPM 120MM fans. I don't mind if they are louder.
Also ordered a Kill-A-Watt
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882715001&Tpk=Kill%2bA%2bWatt
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Okay, I'm a little lost. My FSB is 380 x a multiple of 9 which gives me 3.42 ghz. My ram is 800. So I could set my fsb to 400 and leave my ram alone, right? btw my vcore is at 1.15.
Addendum: You know it's starting to sink in. I have DDR800 so at a single rate it's running at 400. If I'm running at 380 MHz at front side then I have 760 MHz. So I'm not bottlenecking at the ram. Hmmm maybe I should take that puppy to 400 MHz fsb.
May I ask why set the Pci-e slot to 100? Any risk in that?
Addendum: Just checked my PCI-E is at 100.
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Okay, I'm a little lost. My FSB is 380 x a multiple of 9 which gives me 3.42 ghz. My ram is 800. So I could set my fsb to 400 and leave my ram alone, right? btw my vcore is at 1.15.
Addendum: You know it's starting to sink in. I have DDR800 so at a single rate it's running at 400. If I'm running at 380 MHz at front side then I have 760 MHz. So I'm not bottlenecking at the ram. Hmmm maybe I should take that puppy to 400 MHz fsb.
May I ask why set the Pci-e slot to 100? Any risk in that?
Addendum: Just checked my PCI-E is at 100.
Your CPU core clock speed is 380. You have a double pumped dual core processor so your front side bus speed is 4x380 or 1520. Your RAM is DDR2 800 with a core clock speed of 400 (800/2). To get to 1:1 you need to increase the CPU core clock to 400 or the FSB to 1600 (4x400), whichever your motherboard lets you set. You're CPU will then be 400x9 for 3.6 Ghz. All you want to do is set the core clocks the same to get to 1:1.
The reason you do this is so that the CPU and RAM are processing on the same clock cycles, otherwise, the faster of the two will be waiting, or rather missing opportunities, to send or recieve data from the other.
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Installed 2 new 120mm higher RPM fans. I know I said I didn't care about the noise...but my case is scheduled for lift off in T minus 10..9...8...
The new ones have chasis fan plugs so maybe I'll try turning on the Quiet Chasis Fan feature on my mobo. I would guess that my old 120mm's were 1000 or so RPMs. The new ones are 2000 and loud. I took an old 120mm fan and replaced an 80mm with it.
On the good side, airflow is...how do I said, incredibly increased. Temps dropped about 4-5C across the board. My 8800 used to idle at 60C+, it does 52-53C now.
My cores are still hotter than I like, about 50C idle. Next stop is to remount the HSF and reapply the Arctic Silver.
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What ya got there is a Harrier Case! :rofl :rofl :rofl
I haven't quite got my bios reading my temps or any other program for that matter. Wednesday I get my new Sound card and while I installing that I will reset the cmos. I updated the bios Saturday or Sunday.
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I updated the bios Saturday or Sunday.
I don't recommend drinking and flashing (your bios!).
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I don't recommend drinking and flashing (your bios!).
Not even wine?! Well, it is super simple with the abit board. You just One click and it does the job.
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I dont know that I have anything to read my Northbridge and southbridge temps,but would t help that much to put a fan over them to keep them cool???I am not sure of the temps.Would they be in the bios??
Falcon
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I dont know that I have anything to read my Northbridge and southbridge temps,but would t help that much to put a fan over them to keep them cool???I am not sure of the temps.Would they be in the bios??
Falcon
My computer case has 3 temperature sensor wires that I can attach with tape to any component I want in the case. I have 1 on top of a hard drive, one on top of my CPU HSF, and the other on the heatsink on my northbridge. It's displayed on an LCD screen on the front of my case, so that is the only way I know the temp of my northbridge (an technically it's not even the chipset, its just the heatsink temp).
Keeping my northbridge cool helps keep my general case temperature down.
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My computer case has 3 temperature sensor wires that I can attach with tape to any component I want in the case.
Would that be duct tape :D
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Well initially I was having problems not seeing a temperature drop with my new HSF and some Arctic Silver 5. Mainly the Core readings were 20C+ over the CPU temp readings so I figured something wasn't right, either not seated or an even application of the Arctic Silver 5.
So I took it all a part, cleaned it off and reapplied and resat the HSF. Prior to the reseating, I was getting up to 65C on the cores on a heavy load. Now with 3 Prime95's running at both cores at 100% I'm getting 50-51C max. CPU temps have dropped about 5-10C on the average.
So in hindsight, the new HSF and Arctic Silver did work, in addition to adding two very noisy 120mm fans.