Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: Hornet33 on June 30, 2008, 07:55:27 AM
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Well I've built my first booster in the shop. It's been operational for about 2 weeks now and the burn in is almost complete. I'm getting right at 2 liters a minute out of this one at 16 amps power draw on a standard 12vdc car battery.
Now it's time to build the one that will actually go into my truck. The prototype is cheap, and ugly, and I don't want to install it in my truck. I just built it for a proof of concept. The new one is going to be sleek, compact, and look good. I have to go for the cool guy factor so I spent some money for the parts for the new one. The chamber is going to be made out of Clear Cast Acrylic so I'll be able to see inside the thing as it operates. My electro plates and straps are T-316 22ga stainless steel vs the T-304 blank wall plates I used in the prototype and they are a bit larger, 2 inches taller in fact so that's a lot more surface area.
Everything should be delivered this week and I should have it installed and operational in my truck by the end of July. I'll post pics of the project as it's being built, tested, and installed.
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Look forward to seeing your results. Remember to take metrics of your performance before you install it so we can have a good baseline for comparison.
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I'm getting right at 1.5 liters at 5 and 6 amps. Is not in truck but well be in a week are 2 :salute .Look forward to seeing your results .I just built it hoping that it will get me 4 are 5 mpg more in my 1997 toyota tacoma
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Look forward to seeing your results. Remember to take metrics of your performance before you install it so we can have a good baseline for comparison.
I've been keeping a detailed logbook of my trucks performance over the last couple of months to establish a good baseline. Keeping track of where I drive and how often, how much gas I'm putting in the truck when I fill it up, mileage driven since the last fill up.
On average I'm driving 28 miles a day mon-fri. Weekends less than 10 miles total for sat-sun. 1.5 miles of my daily commute to and from work is surface streets, with the rest being interstate. Currently my truck is getting 13.6MPG averaged over the last 6 times I've filled it up. The worse is 13.2, and the best being 13.8 I reset my trip meter in the truck after every fill up and staple the receipt into the log for that fill up in addition to checking the oil level and logging that. I check all these numbers against the truck computer records and so far they have been real close (+/- 2%)
What I need is an Excel spreadsheet to dump all this data into but I'm too lazy to make one, or go looking for one on the web.
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I've been keeping a detailed logbook of my trucks performance over the last couple of months to establish a good baseline. Keeping track of where I drive and how often, how much gas I'm putting in the truck when I fill it up, mileage driven since the last fill up.
On average I'm driving 28 miles a day mon-fri. Weekends less than 10 miles total for sat-sun. 1.5 miles of my daily commute to and from work is surface streets, with the rest being interstate. Currently my truck is getting 13.6MPG averaged over the last 6 times I've filled it up. The worse is 13.2, and the best being 13.8 I reset my trip meter in the truck after every fill up and staple the receipt into the log for that fill up in addition to checking the oil level and logging that. I check all these numbers against the truck computer records and so far they have been real close (+/- 2%)
What I need is an Excel spreadsheet to dump all this data into but I'm too lazy to make one, or go looking for one on the web.
question...did you build the MAP sensor adjuster? i think that's what the electronic piece is.......but anyway..did you build one or are you buying one ready built?
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Your talking about the Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE or pronounced e-fee). I bought one pre-built from Eagle Research. I have the schematics and board layout to build one but their unit is more compact than what I could build. It cost less than a full tank of gas cost me right now.http://www.eagle-research.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=16 (http://www.eagle-research.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=16)
This little device goes inline with the O2 sensor before the catalytic converter and the engines computer. It has an adjustment pot on it to lean out the fuel/air mix. If your running a booster you HAVE to have one of these if you have electronic fuel injection. Without it the higher O2 levels from burning the HHO gas in addition to regular gas will make the computer think the engine is running too lean and dump more fuel into the mix. This can actually make you get worse MPG which kinda defeats the whole purpose of building a booster. It just allows you to adjust the feed back voltage from the O2 sensor so the computer "thinks" it has the correct fuel/air mix with the addition of the HHO gas
The MAP sensor is a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor that some vehicles have and they make a circuit for adjusting those as well. Luckily my truck doesn't have one so I don't have to screw with it. Your smaller aluminum block, and high performance engines will have MAP sensors on them to adjust the engines performance and control everything so you don't blow the manifold apart under high RPM's and loads. At least that's how I understand them to work from talking to a gear head friend of mine.
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Your talking about the Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE or pronounced e-fee). I bought one pre-built from Eagle Research. I have the schematics and board layout to build one but their unit is more compact than what I could build. It cost less than a full tank of gas cost me right now.http://www.eagle-research.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=16 (http://www.eagle-research.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=16)
This little device goes inline with the O2 sensor before the catalytic converter and the engines computer. It has an adjustment pot on it to lean out the fuel/air mix. If your running a booster you HAVE to have one of these if you have electronic fuel injection. Without it the higher O2 levels from burning the HHO gas in addition to regular gas will make the computer think the engine is running too lean and dump more fuel into the mix. This can actually make you get worse MPG which kinda defeats the whole purpose of building a booster. It just allows you to adjust the feed back voltage from the O2 sensor so the computer "thinks" it has the correct fuel/air mix with the addition of the HHO gas
The MAP sensor is a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor that some vehicles have and they make a circuit for adjusting those as well. Luckily my truck doesn't have one so I don't have to screw with it. Your smaller aluminum block, and high performance engines will have MAP sensors on them to adjust the engines performance and control everything so you don't blow the manifold apart under high RPM's and loads. At least that's how I understand them to work from talking to a gear head friend of mine.
although i called uit the wrong thing, at least you knew what i meant.......but are you sure your truck isn't map rwuipped? you drive a dodge, right? i thought they had maps.....i'm gonna hafta go look at my dakota and see......
thanks dude!
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It would be a lot more believable if you had a dyno test before than after the modification with controlled fuel and mileage figures. Anything else would be only subjective reporting for mileage boosting on the road.
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Well I've done a bit of checking and it turns out I DO have a MAP sensor on my truck. However upon further research the MAP sensor on my truck is a backup for the O2 sensor so I'm good. The MAP sensor on the Dodge Rams really only comes into play unse heavy loads like towing. Since I hardly ever tow anything it shouldn't make too much of a differance, but I will keep it in mind when I tune the engine to run with HHO.
I might end up having to purchase a MAP adjuster as well.
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Not to be a wet blanket here, but if you're getting under 14 MPG and you want better mileage wouldn't the best thing to do is sell your truck and buy a small economical car? Not that I won't be intrested to see the pics of your install and hear your report on the effectiveness, because I am, but how much effort at what expense for how much benefit you're going to get makes it worth it?
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Well most people that are building boosters are seeing anywere from a 30 to 50% increase in gas mileage. Total cost for this project is around $250 so far with maybe anouther $100 needed to finish it. Last but not least, I will NEVER own a small car again. I ended up with a Mecury Sable after my ex blew up the engine in my old Suburban, and while the Sable was a really nice car, I hated driving it. I've owned a truck of one kind or anouther since I got my drivers liscense and I just prefer them over a car.
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Not to be a wet blanket here, but if you're getting under 14 MPG and you want better mileage wouldn't the best thing to do is sell your truck and buy a small economical car? Not that I won't be intrested to see the pics of your install and hear your report on the effectiveness, because I am, but how much effort at what expense for how much benefit you're going to get makes it worth it?
see...i have problems with people expecting us(the general public) buying small cars. do we see politicians in little cars? do we see rich people in little cars?
hell, even though i have problems with it i do drive a geo, and only use my dakota as backup or when i want to have a bit of fun, but then i see sooo many people in exploders, excusrions, yukons...what friggin difference does my geo make?
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Well most people that are building boosters are seeing anywere from a 30 to 50% increase in gas mileage. Total cost for this project is around $250 so far with maybe anouther $100 needed to finish it. Last but not least, I will NEVER own a small car again. I ended up with a Mecury Sable after my ex blew up the engine in my old Suburban, and while the Sable was a really nice car, I hated driving it. I've owned a truck of one kind or anouther since I got my drivers liscense and I just prefer them over a car.
here's an interesting bit on why soo many think this can't work(i think it can/will)
a good friend of mine works for L3 communications. he's an electronics engineer, and has worked on some serious dod projects for them.
i tlaked to him about this, and he also thinks it's a bunch of hooey. during his explanation of why he thinks that it came out why people think this cannot work.
it seems that everyone basicly thinks that this HHO gas is intended to replace incomming air. he did some wquick figuring, and showed me how it cannot replace enough air to do any good.
what i couldn't get him to understand, is that the HHO gas doesn't replace air, but rather that it's intended to replace/supplement the gasoline in the engine.
he also keeps trying to state that it will take more energy to create this gas than the gas will produce, saying that it'll load the alternator more.
i love this guy, as he's a great friend....and my flight instructor too......but i think he's waaay overthingking this.
i just bought what i need to make the masll unit, and think i may use my extra time this weekend to build it and hopefully test the unit too..
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Yeah I have a guy that I work with that think I'm crazy and tell me the same thing your buddy is telling you. When I try to explain that the car stereo, 500 watt amp, and 12" woofers he has in his car draw more power from his battery and alternator than my booster will pull from my trucks system he just doesn't get it. Even when I have everything installed and running with hard data to back everything up with he probably still wont believe. He's also one of those guys that preaches about the 2nd law of thermo dynamics. You know how you can't get more energy out of something than you put in, blaa blaa blaa. I keep trying to explain to him that he's right, but he's ONLY looking at the booster and not the entire integrated system, engine, booster, electrical system.
O'well there is no harm in trying right?
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i installed one on my chevy S10 pickup. well come back with hard data as i get it. seems to be working good though.
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Yeah I have a guy that I work with that think I'm crazy and tell me the same thing your buddy is telling you. When I try to explain that the car stereo, 500 watt amp, and 12" woofers he has in his car draw more power from his battery and alternator than my booster will pull from my trucks system he just doesn't get it. Even when I have everything installed and running with hard data to back everything up with he probably still wont believe. He's also one of those guys that preaches about the 2nd law of thermo dynamics. You know how you can't get more energy out of something than you put in, blaa blaa blaa. I keep trying to explain to him that he's right, but he's ONLY looking at the booster and not the entire integrated system, engine, booster, electrical system.
O'well there is no harm in trying right?
ya..my buddy mentioned that 2nd law too. what they also fail to realize is that your alternator only takes about 5 horsepower or less to run. by running, i mean when the field circuit is turned onto charge. when the field circuit is off, the alt. just freewheels, taking no extra power. it cycles on and off. i still think the gain will be much more than the cost.
as for trying? hell, when it sorks, it'll be friggin awsome. IF it doesn't happen to work, then it was still a fun experiment...and we got to learn too.
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i installed one on my chevy S10 pickup. well come back with hard data as i get it. seems to be working good though.
did you install the electronics too?
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Even when I have everything installed and running with hard data to back everything up with he probably still wont believe.
Be prepared to believe that the second law cannot be violated if the data comes back that you wasted your time and money too... I mean your experiment could come out that way too... right?
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Be prepared to believe that the second law cannot be violated if the data comes back that you wasted your time and money too... I mean your experiment could come out that way too... right?
yes, it very well could. butcha know what? it STILL won't be a waste of time. first off, we proved it to ourselves. second, we did a fun little experiment. i'm sure i can think of other fun things to do with one of these units too..... :devil
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yes, it very well could. butcha know what? it STILL won't be a waste of time. first off, we proved it to ourselves. second, we did a fun little experiment. i'm sure i can think of other fun things to do with one of these units too..... :devil
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If they don't work, well let's see... you could use them as paper weights, add 50# of concrete and they could be boat anchors, you could put them on your fireplace mantel as conversation pieces... yup they could be useful.
Of course, you could have properly inflated your tires and ... well yeah, they could be useful.
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Be prepared to believe that the second law cannot be violated if the data comes back that you wasted your time and money too... I mean your experiment could come out that way too... right?
Well you might be right, BUT,,,,,,,,I have personaly seen these things built, installed, working and seen for myself REAL results. It was at that point I decided to build one for myself.
Again, these boosters are NOT ment to be a cure all replacement for fossil fuels. They just give a little extra "kick" to fossil fuels to make a regular internal combustion engine operate more efficently and in the process save some serious cash at the gas pump. $82 for 20.857 gallons of gas for me tonight when I filled up. If I'm lucky that will last me 13 days of regular driving. With a booster installed and operating like it's supposed to, that much gas should be able to go 17-20 days, maybe more if I can tune the engine JUST right. That's a pretty good increase that I will take all day long.
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If they don't work, well let's see... you could use them as paper weights, add 50# of concrete and they could be boat anchors, you could put them on your fireplace mantel as conversation pieces... yup they could be useful.
Of course, you could have properly inflated your tires and ... well yeah, they could be useful.
don't forget, sir....these items STILL produce a flammable gas, even if it doesn't help the mileage of the car running :devil
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wipi1ZoFFCg&feature=related
looks like he's screwing around a bit...........
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Well you might be right, BUT,,,,,,,,I have personaly seen these things built, installed, working and seen for myself REAL results. It was at that point I decided to build one for myself.
Again, these boosters are NOT ment to be a cure all replacement for fossil fuels. They just give a little extra "kick" to fossil fuels to make a regular internal combustion engine operate more efficently and in the process save some serious cash at the gas pump. $82 for 20.857 gallons of gas for me tonight when I filled up. If I'm lucky that will last me 13 days of regular driving. With a booster installed and operating like it's supposed to, that much gas should be able to go 17-20 days, maybe more if I can tune the engine JUST right. That's a pretty good increase that I will take all day long.
problem is.......we all could be wrong. i don't think so. but i think that those that do think we are wrong just aren't looking at it properly. their eduction in their fields i think is actually working against them. again, i could be wrong, and will readily admit it if i am. i'll also find a good fun use for my unit too if it doesn't work. :rofl
right now, i'm averaging 15.4 mpg in my 5.2L dodge dakota. i drive it anywhere from 100-300 miles a week. it's a pretty even split between highway and around town. part of my problem, is that at the ripe old age of 46, i haven't grown up yet. i loooooove that v8 roar when i wind the gears. it's not a rocket slead, but it's quick enough for the traffic conditions round here. but that heavy foot kills mileage too.
know how i know i won't accelerat lighter to try to "fudge" the numbers? because i friggin CAN'T. if i haven't lightened up in 29 years of driving, i don't think i'm gonna start now. :D
anyway, i think you'll have yours in before i get mine in. i'm going to purchase the o2sensor adjuster from the link you posted....and the map sensor too........
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Be prepared to believe that the second law cannot be violated if the data comes back that you wasted your time and money too... I mean your experiment could come out that way too... right?
Without a dyno lab report prior to the modification and a subsequent one after the modification anything that will be reported is merely subjective feelings reported as an analysis. There is no base data using a fixed amount of fuel and elimination of other variables as well as an analysis of HP production unless a method is used to compare before and after on the same equipment and tested in the same manner.
I'd also like to know if anyone has flow tested the vehicle to determine how much air was passed through the carb or throttle body at a fixed speed / HP level for a fixed amount of time. That is kind of important since the equipment is going to be producing somewhere around 2 liters a minute of hydrogen gas. I'd really like to know what the percentage of the hydrogen gas would be from the overall amount of air flowing into the engine. A direct comparison in liters per minute would be relevant for comparison purposes.
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Without a dyno lab report prior to the modification and a subsequent one after the modification anything that will be reported is merely subjective feelings reported as an analysis. There is no base data using a fixed amount of fuel and elimination of other variables as well as an analysis of HP production unless a method is used to compare before and after on the same equipment and tested in the same manner.
I'd also like to know if anyone has flow tested the vehicle to determine how much air was passed through the carb or throttle body at a fixed speed / HP level for a fixed amount of time. That is kind of important since the equipment is going to be producing somewhere around 2 liters a minute of hydrogen gas. I'd really like to know what the percentage of the hydrogen gas would be from the overall amount of air flowing into the engine. A direct comparison in liters per minute would be relevant for comparison purposes.
we're not too concerned with the amount of air. this gas replaces gasoline, not air. if it replaced air, it couldn't make enough fast enough. my buddy did a quick calc, and i wish i could remember the numbers. but they were pretty high. i could hook up my scanner and log the grams per second for ya. that's how MAP sensors measure it for the vehicles puter.
as for a lab test. wouldn't matter. real world is always different. what i MAY do...not sure yet.....but a friend of mine is supposed to visit my shop sometime in the next week or 2. if i were to install this on her car without her knowledge(after first testing for safety on my own vehicle) her driving would remain the same, and any results would not be "fudged".
anyway......if we fail, you guuys can all make fun of us, laugh at us, and say "i told ya so". if it does though.......
:aok
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Is the gas being piped in through the fuel feed line or through the open carb / throttle body?
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we're not too concerned with the amount of air. this gas replaces gasoline, not air. if it replaced air, it couldn't make enough fast enough.
When you electrolyze water, you get Hydroxy gas. It is a hydrogen / oxygen mixture, ready to explode.
Air is an oxydizer, as is the oxygen in your magic gas, so yes, it does displace / replace at least some air.
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I was already aware that this gas was being fed through the air delivery system. I already knew it was not displacing gasoline since it is delivered via the air intake and not the fuel system. I'm still hoping someone will tell me what percentage of gas (and I mean atmospheric gasses not gasoline) this stuff is going to be in liters per minute at a given HP / speed for the vehicle.
I'd also be interested in how many BTU's this gaseous mixture produces versus the amount of gasoline it is claimed to be replacing. Then again that would require lab work and actual lab comparisons with a dyno before and after modification eliminating all the other variables.
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I helped my buddy install some twin turbos on his Dodge Diesel PU, and has a a master spreadsheet of all the numbers he needed to understand his project.
Mass flow ratios for his PU are somewhere about 20:1 to 30:1 air/fuel when he's pulling 200 hp: the data point is appx 26 lbs/min intake air, 1.17 lbs/min fuel flow.
Diesel is largly cetane, (C10H22) and so a lb of diesel yeilds a 120 to 22 ratio of C to H. So 22/142 lbs (0.155 lbs/min H)
1 gal of water electrolyzed to hydroxy, you would get 8.345 lbs of gas, with 1 to 16 ratio of H to O. So, you get .49 lbs of H and 7.85 lbs of O.
The diesel burns, water does not. You need to add energy of the diesel, going thru the alternator, to electrolyse the water.
If the engine is say 33% heat efficient, and the alternator is say 85% efficient, and the electrolysis of (being extremely generous) 90% efficient, than you have a 25% efficient energy conversion to get your magic gas.