Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: Max on August 10, 2008, 09:32:30 AM
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I recently moved my CH Fighterstick, CH Throttle and Saitek peds over to a powered USB hub. My homebuilt has a PC Power & Cooling 610 continuous power supply.
What I assumed to be dirty/worn pots (odd joystick responses) may be power hub related. I hooked the stick to a different computer without the power hub and and it was fine. Has anyone had a power hub create this kind of problem?
Thanks
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Max,
A powered USB hub did just the opposite for me. Maybe your hub went bad??
Rob
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The hub's brand new (week) I tried this before with another powered hub and it too caused stick issues...or so I suspect.
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The hub's brand new (week) I tried this before with another powered hub and it too caused stick issues...or so I suspect.
I use CH products on a powered hub "BELKIN" 5 port. I would return yours & pickup one of these. The CH forum has indicated that some hubs are not compatible. :rock :noid
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I have the Belkin "Hub-to-go". I have no issues.
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The CH forum has indicated that some hubs are not compatible. :rock :noid
It's not that CH is incompatible with some USB powered hubs, it's that some hubs for whatever reason aren't using the standard voltage (think it's either 3v or 5v, been a while since I've worked at CH) and that can cause the CH USB sticks either not be detected or encounter problems such as losing calibration, etc. If your USB is one of those that isn't using sufficient power, then return it because it's defective.
ack-ack
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I have a Belkin too and NO PROBLEMS!
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I recently moved my CH Fighterstick, CH Throttle and Saitek peds over to a powered USB hub. My homebuilt has a PC Power & Cooling 610 continuous power supply.
What I assumed to be dirty/worn pots (odd joystick responses) may be power hub related. I hooked the stick to a different computer without the power hub and and it was fine. Has anyone had a power hub create this kind of problem?
Thanks
1) Make sure you have the CH drivers installed so you don't use the generic Windows calibration. You should see the "CH Test and Calibration" window when you calibrate in Windows. Not the generic screen.
2) When you move the stick to a powered hub, re-calibrate. Your original calibration doesn't follow the stick when you put it on a hub.
3) Be sure to calibrate in AH also. Don't skip this step.
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Max, was it an ecternally powered hub with its own power supply? If not, then you created a problem as the external hub would be pulling its power from the computer's USB bus which is the issue you want to avoid.
If it is externally powered, what make/model did you get? I want to avoid it in the future. :)
Also, what NHawk said.
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1) Make sure you have the CH drivers installed so you don't use the generic Windows calibration. You should see the "CH Test and Calibration" window when you calibrate in Windows. Not the generic screen.
You can safely calibrate your CH gear using the Windows Game Controller applet, you just have to remember to press a button on the joystick instead of clicking on 'Next' to advance to the calibration process. The CH calibration applet is the same as the Windows Game Controller's applet the only difference is the look of the GUI.
ack-ack
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Max, was it an ecternally powered hub with its own power supply? If not, then you created a problem as the external hub would be pulling its power from the computer's USB bus which is the issue you want to avoid.
If it is externally powered, what make/model did you get? I want to avoid it in the future. :)
Also, what NHawk said.
The powered USB hub I bought (BJ's Wholesale Club) was manufactured by GE and sold for $29.95. Sorry, I don't have a model #. Yes, it had an AC/DC adopter.
I followed the steps mentioned by NHawk. Since disconnecting the CH gear from the powered hub, the game controllers have been problem free.
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I followed the steps mentioned by NHawk. Since disconnecting the CH gear from the powered hub, the game controllers have been problem free.
Which means the hub was defective and not outputting sufficient voltage to power the connected USB devices. Powered USB hubs need to output 5 volts, otherwise your USB CH gear won't work properly.
ack-ack
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Ack-Ack hit the nail on the head.
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Great info. Been having same problem with my setup. Ordered a Belkin today. Hopefully that fixes it.
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Powered USB hubs need to output 5 volts, otherwise your USB CH gear won't work properly.
ack-ack
How's the average schlub supposed to know if a USB hub outputs 5 volts? I just Googled my GE 7 port powered hub and couldn't find one reference to volt output. Did the same for the Belkin hub...same deal, no info.
Is 5 volt output an industry standard or do you just lay down your money and hope for the best? Anyway, thanks for the info, Ack-Ack
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Welcome to the wild and wonderful world of USB Max. I think most of us have either been lucky, or have had the bad experience.
I have always used the Belkin powered USB hubs and never had an issue with them.
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How's the average schlub supposed to know if a USB hub outputs 5 volts? I just Googled my GE 7 port powered hub and couldn't find one reference to volt output. Did the same for the Belkin hub...same deal, no info.
Is 5 volt output an industry standard or do you just lay down your money and hope for the best? Anyway, thanks for the info, Ack-Ack
5 volts is the industry standard. Like Skuzzy said, it's basically a crap shoot, especially if you get one of the knock off brands. The ones I would recommend are some of the bigger name brands like Belkin or Dlink (I've used both and never had any issues with them and CH controllers).
ack-ack
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A thousand times better than the GamePort days!
Trying to use a 555 timer as an A/D converter is like having vertical and horizontal hold pots on those old 1960s TV sets. Like a harlequin dancing around!
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5 volts is the industry standard. Like Skuzzy said, it's basically a crap shoot, especially if you get one of the knock off brands. The ones I would recommend are some of the bigger name brands like Belkin or Dlink (I've used both and never had any issues with them and CH controllers).
ack-ack
so a belikin hub at 5 volts would work just as well for a saitek x52 pro? im using my computers hub and it ocasionaly resets itself causing the stick to re center in whatever position i have it.
its anoying because i have to put the plane on auto pilot and unplug the stick from the throttle (the ten pin conector) for it to go back to working right. been planning to get one for a while.