Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Aces High General Discussion => Topic started by: stickpig on November 15, 2008, 12:26:12 PM
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Every now and then my X52 loses calibration so bad my plane acts like its flying with one wing. The stick is fairly new, and I never had this problem with my old stick. I do however have this stick scaled way different then before. Can the way the stick is scaled cause it to lose calibration? I have the sliders all the way up and dampening all the way down on all axis.
Thanks
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Is it plugged into a powered USB hub? That might cure your problem if it isn't already.
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is it plugged into a USB hub? If it is it should be a "powered" hub. If the voltage goes to low (spread out amongst other USB things) it will mess up your calibration. Also check under the hardware manager. The USB properties box has a "power" tab check there to see if its set on power saver. Sometimes it my be turning off your USB port to save power and then lose calibration.
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I had the same problem when I had an X-52 Pro. I cured my problem by buying a CH Stick. Kidding aside, I found at times when I lost calibration in game, you can simply unplug your stick, wait about 10 seconds and plug it in again.
You can do this in game, but make sure you put your auto pilot on. For some reason that would reset the calibration. I have no idea why, I simply found this out by accident. Mine was plugged into a powered hub. I don't know if this would work if its not.
Throwing an option out there.
Fred
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Mine does the same thing and i cured mine the way bmwgs did unplug it wait a few seconds then plug it back in also check the plug that goes in the rear of the stick itself sometimes mine works its way out and my calibration goes south. Im about ready to glue mine into the back of the stick because it usually happens about the time i need it to work the most.
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is it plugged into a USB hub? If it is it should be a "powered" hub. If the voltage goes to low (spread out amongst other USB things) it will mess up your calibration. Also check under the hardware manager. The USB properties box has a "power" tab check there to see if its set on power saver. Sometimes it my be turning off your USB port to save power and then lose calibration.
How can you tell if a USB hub is powered or not?
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How can you tell if a USB hub is powered or not?
Does it have an AC adapter? If it doesn't it's not a powered usb hub.
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I had the same problem with a set of CH pedals last night: I'd calibrate, and then a few minutes later calibration would go out until finally I just couldn't get them calibrated again at all. This first started happening right around the most recent update, and other people in the arena last night mentioned having had similar problems lately so there COULD be something else.
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I hear if you keep some joysticks in the same position for an extended period of time, they automatically think that is the center point and re-calibrate themselves to that position. Couldn't tell you if it is the operating system or the joystick it's self though.
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Does it have an AC adapter? If it doesn't it's not a powered usb hub.
Guess I'm still confused...... All my USB ports are on the computer. They all look alike. I'm sure some of them are powered. Is there another way to determine if its powered or not?
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All USB ports supply power to the item plugged into them. If you have several USB ports and have items plugged into them it can be a pretty good draw on your power supply. This could cause you to lose calibration. To fix the problem buy a powered USB hub. It will have a cord that you have to plug into a power strip or into the wall. It will power all USB items plugged into it without using any power from your computers power supply.
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Guess I'm still confused...... All my USB ports are on the computer. They all look alike. I'm sure some of them are powered. Is there another way to determine if its powered or not?
Let me make this a little easier... a powered USB port will be an external one that is plugged via USB cable to one of the ports on your computer. It will have a small box type structure and will have an external power supply to plug into the wall so it draws power from it's own power supply and not your computers. I hope this helps.
All the Best...
Jay
awDoc1
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I just recently bought an x52 also and have the same problem. All i have plugged into the usb outlets is the x52 and headset mic combo. I had a logitec extreme 3d pro and thought id change just for the heck of it. So far i like the logitec better than the x52. If it would stay calibrated it would be ok. Think ill look at the CH sticks on my next purchase.
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I guess that means none are powered then. I have an 750w pwr supply though. Again I didn't have this problem with my last X-52. If it was the stick, is there a way of telling by looking at the setting in game?
You know when you click map controllers and you see the numbers in the box that change when you move the stick?
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stickpig -
X52's seem to be a crap shoot. Mine was fine for 9+ months until it developed the same issues you're describing. I've heard a number of X52 owners say the same thing while others have 1,2,3+ year old sticks that are problem free.
I never could get mine to stay calibrated, with or without a powered hub so I bought a CH Fighterstick and never looked back.
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I had the same problem with a set of CH pedals last night: I'd calibrate, and then a few minutes later calibration would go out until finally I just couldn't get them calibrated again at all. This first started happening right around the most recent update, and other people in the arena last night mentioned having had similar problems lately so there COULD be something else.
Im experiencing same with a CH stick, and Saitek Joystick. Every flight I have to calibrate. Thought it was my pots going bad.
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Im experiencing same with a CH stick, and Saitek Joystick. Every flight I have to calibrate. Thought it was my pots going bad.
The majority of the issues of this type are caused by using a USB hub that isn't outputting the necessary voltage for your USB gear. The standard is 5 volts and if the USB device isn't getting sufficient power, it will cause the stick to lose calibration, spike or just not function.
It is highly recommended that you use a powered USB hub that outputs the standard 5 volts. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers follow this established standard and I recommend Belkin or D-Link if you're looking at getting a powered USB hub.
ack-ack
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The majority of the issues of this type are caused by using a USB hub that isn't outputting the necessary voltage for your USB gear. The standard is 5 volts and if the USB device isn't getting sufficient power, it will cause the stick to lose calibration, spike or just not function.
It is highly recommended that you use a powered USB hub that outputs the standard 5 volts. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers follow this established standard and I recommend Belkin or D-Link if you're looking at getting a powered USB hub.
ack-ack
Ack-Ack, do you still recommend that for people who still have ports available on the computer as well? Or are you saying if you have a hub, make sure it's powered?
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One thing I did with my X52 because of this problem is to dim the LED lights on the stick. I cut it back about 40%. My thought was dimmer lights equals less power draw. The controls are in the Windows control panel under Game Controllers. I have not lost calibration again. Simple, easy, and free possible fix.
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I would recommend it Sector.... even tho I never worked for CH :D Your still drawing power from your power supply with each thing you plug in. I really went into the poorhouse and bought a $30 powered hub :D and plug all of my CH stuff in to it (stick, throttle, and pedals) then plug the hub into one USB port. Over the years I've never had a problem with power. A lot of computers come through with an OK power supply, but once you start hopping up the thing with a new video card, better sound and so on the last thing most people think about is the power supply. Start adding USB powered units to an average powersupply and your going to start running out of power for something.
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ANY of the new sticks SHOULD be coupled with a USB HUB. Plugging them into the computer can easily overload the power supply in which case the stick will act very oddly and your power supply, and in extreme cases, internal components will begin to wear out faster. Hell, I burnt out 7 X45s (at the expense of Best Buy) because I was just plugging them into the computer and the PSU was coughing on them.
Onboard USB ports are designed to power a flash drive, not an appliance.
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I have my X-52 Pro, rudder pedals, scanner, printer all plugged into my computer (Dell) without any problems. <knocks on wood>
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Every now and then my X52 loses calibration so bad my plane acts like its flying with one wing. The stick is fairly new, and I never had this problem with my old stick. I do however have this stick scaled way different then before. Can the way the stick is scaled cause it to lose calibration? I have the sliders all the way up and dampening all the way down on all axis.
Thanks
I used to get the very same thing, What I do now is pull up the control panel from the icon in the system tray, then I log onto AH and it works just fine now.
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One thing I did with my X52 because of this problem is to dim the LED lights on the stick. I cut it back about 40%. My thought was dimmer lights equals less power draw. The controls are in the Windows control panel under Game Controllers. I have not lost calibration again. Simple, easy, and free possible fix.
Could this be the clue? Ive never used the LED's always had them off and have had no problems even though I dont use a powered hub, 3 years and counting. I still use the original windows driver with no SST software.
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(http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr138/Fugita69/flyingkid.gif)
Don't get frustrated. Sometimes you have to step away from the stick.
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Could this be the clue? Ive never used the LED's always had them off and have had no problems even though I dont use a powered hub, 3 years and counting. I still use the original windows driver with no SST software.
My stick(x-52) had been losing cal constantly lately...turned of the LED's and it didn't lose cal once last night....coincidence? I Hope not.
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My stick(x-52) had been losing cal constantly lately...turned of the LED's and it didn't lose cal once last night....coincidence? I Hope not.
Elementary my Dear Watson
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I have my X-52 Pro, rudder pedals, scanner, printer all plugged into my computer (Dell) without any problems. <knocks on wood>
Me to no issues :aok
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Well, here's the choice; Spend $5 next time you're driving past an electronics shop and know that everything's safer for it, or keep everything plugged into an already inadequate (Dell) power supply and hope for the best.
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I switched my Ch setup from a powered USB hub to the computer itself and had much better results.
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Well, here's the choice; Spend $5 next time you're driving past an electronics shop and know that everything's safer for it, or keep everything plugged into an already inadequate (Dell) power supply and hope for the best.
Hoping for the Best here