Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: bj229r on November 15, 2008, 08:21:17 PM
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OK....PQ5 thingie has a hinged metal flap that holds CPU pads against corresponding pins on mobo....and then, presumably, the fan butts up to said flap....does gooey heat conductor stuff go on BOTH sides of said flap, or just on fan side, or not at all?
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First, the CPU should just drop into the socket with no pressure applied. Pins into holes. Swing the latch down and lock it into place.
Thermal compound should be applied sparingly to the CPU fan/heatsink contact patch. Generally a thin stip down the middle will suffice. It will spread out under pressure as you lock in the heatsink/fan.
For further instructions go here and select your CPU:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm
As an alternative, you can apply a very small amount of thermal compound then spread it over the heatsink contact patch with a plastic putty knife in as thin a layer as possible.
BTW, too much thermal compound will create unnessesary heat. It's really only there to fill in imperfections in the metal surfaces so that they don't create "heat bubbles".
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Thanks for the link :aok (However, my eyesight isn't THAT bad....an E8500 doesn't seem to have pins, only many...MANY, little round, flat pads, which hopefully correspond to the little pin-looking things on mobo I hope I haven't damaged :eek:)
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It should look like one of these. This is the pin side:
(http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/9913/e850000sp2.jpg)
Each of those drop into a hole in the socket.
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The pins are located on the board not the processor, The processor has a small gold arrow showing pin one. The CPU will only mount one way with the grooves cut in. The amount of "Thermal Paste" (this is only used to fill micro sized scratches in your heat sink and processor not caulking a crack) you use is limited amount. Clean the top of the processor and the bottom of the heat sink with some witch hazel using a cotton swab (not drenched, moist only). Then apply the thermal paste, about half the size of a green pea, actually a lil less. It does not go on both sides just the processor. After you apply the thermal paste place your heat sink on top then secure your snap pins working on a diag. Check your thermals (Real Temp 2.70) to make sure you seating is done well. Get RealTemp here http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/Real_Temp/ (http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/Real_Temp/) You should be good to go after that.
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The hinged metal flap just holds the CPU into the socket against the electrical connections. No heat sink compound goes anywhere on it. It goes only on the flat metal top of the CPU (which shows through the center cutout of the metal flap). The fan heat sink then butts up to this metal top of the CPU and the compound creates a better heat connection between the two surfaces.
You did remove the plastic shield that protects the socket connections during shipment right? (Hey.. just asking.)
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Well...what perplexes ME is that said flap is in between the heat proDUCER (cpu) and heat disperser (fan/heatsink assembly) So it is presumed that heat will conduct best to the flap from CPU via gooey stuff, but for whatever reason no gooey stuff is needed between flap and heatsink?
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Well...what perplexes ME is that said flap is in between the heat proDUCER (cpu) and heat disperser (fan/heatsink assembly) So it is presumed that heat will conduct best to the flap from CPU via gooey stuff, but for whatever reason no gooey stuff is needed between flap and heatsink?
Here's the Intel heatsink contact patch (with Intel thermal paste applied as they come from the factory):
(http://www.frostytech.com/articleimages/200706/intelC2Dstock_bot.jpg)
It doesn't touch the CPU latch. It sits directly on top of the center of the CPU aove the CPU cores.
Here's an Intel CPU latched into the socket:
(http://img358.imageshack.us/img358/2815/cimg5493xo9.jpg)
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Yup, you right, I was just remembering it wrong---was thinking the flap was a solid piece. I went and bought an after-market, beastly looking cooler anyway...didn't know fan came with CPU.
Thanks for input Baldeagl :salute
(LOL, I shouldn't be allowed to be around power tools :rofl)
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I put some stuff in here about the retainer bracket having a removable pin protection panel, but it sounds like you've figured it out.
If you can get a copy, read the manual. The cpu installation instructions in the P5Q manual are fairly good especially if you've never installed socket 775 before. You should be able to download the manual from ASUS if you don't have one.
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Yup, you right, I was just remembering it wrong---was thinking the flap was a solid piece. I went and bought an after-market, beastly looking cooler anyway...didn't know fan came with CPU.
Thanks for input Baldeagl :salute
(LOL, I shouldn't be allowed to be around power tools :rofl)
My Fan is beastly too but does a great job.
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I'm just imagining the torture house processors see when they're stuck into your computer case. :P
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I just just upgraded to a core 2 duo 8400 using the stock intel fan and although it's not exactly running *cool*, it is fairly quiet and has been stable at 100% load (including the vid card working to heat up the inside of the case) for several hours. I load tested it cpu only for about 36 hours and that also worked fine.
If I ever decide to do any overclocking of this sucker (it's supposedly good from 3.0 ghz stock up to at least 3.5 ghz on moderate air cooling) I'll probably get a thermalright ultra 120. It's not terribly expensive and it will cool the hottest cpus within a degree or so of any of the other monster air coolers on the market. Newegg is out of stock at the moment, otherwise my system upgrade would have included that HSF from the beginning. Now, if I want to upgrade the HSF I'll have to pull the mobo out to put on a backplate.
Still, the stock HSF is working fine.
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I just just upgraded to a core 2 duo 8400 using the stock intel fan and although it's not exactly running *cool*, it is fairly quiet and has been stable at 100% load (including the vid card working to heat up the inside of the case) for several hours. I load tested it cpu only for about 36 hours and that also worked fine.
If I ever decide to do any overclocking of this sucker (it's supposedly good from 3.0 ghz stock up to at least 3.5 ghz on moderate air cooling) I'll probably get a thermalright ultra 120. It's not terribly expensive and it will cool the hottest cpus within a degree or so of any of the other monster air coolers on the market. Newegg is out of stock at the moment, otherwise my system upgrade would have included that HSF from the beginning. Now, if I want to upgrade the HSF I'll have to pull the mobo out to put on a backplate.
Still, the stock HSF is working fine.
I would get the OCZ Vendeta II here is my source for reason.http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=153&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5 (http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=153&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5)
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I just just upgraded to a core 2 duo 8400 using the stock intel fan and although it's not exactly running *cool*, it is fairly quiet and has been stable at 100% load (including the vid card working to heat up the inside of the case) for several hours. I load tested it cpu only for about 36 hours and that also worked fine.
If I ever decide to do any overclocking of this sucker (it's supposedly good from 3.0 ghz stock up to at least 3.5 ghz on moderate air cooling) I'll probably get a thermalright ultra 120. It's not terribly expensive and it will cool the hottest cpus within a degree or so of any of the other monster air coolers on the market. Newegg is out of stock at the moment, otherwise my system upgrade would have included that HSF from the beginning. Now, if I want to upgrade the HSF I'll have to pull the mobo out to put on a backplate.
Still, the stock HSF is working fine.
That HSF runs 5 degrees hotter then the OCZ Vandeta 2. Check this link for reference http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=153&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5 (http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=153&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5)
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I don't see the OCZ on this comparison chart, but both versions of the thermalright ultra 120 come out on top.
http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTU3MywzLCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==
Some testing disparity emerges in comparisons by different reviewers if different fans are used or if the testing methodology changes, and hardocp seems to try hard to eliminate (or thoroughly document) any changes to their test setups.
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I have an ASUS P5K-E with 2 x 2GB of PC8500 Mushkin Ascent RAM. I went to Mushkin's forum and asked them. He shot back with this. ASUS didn't have Mushikin listed and I don't like Kingston.
I love this RAM.
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I don't see the OCZ on this comparison chart, but both versions of the thermalright ultra 120 come out on top.
http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTU3MywzLCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==
Some testing disparity emerges in comparisons by different reviewers if different fans are used or if the testing methodology changes, and hardocp seems to try hard to eliminate (or thoroughly document) any changes to their test setups.
Here are the comparisions
(http://www.div-overlay.com/vendetta.jpg)
(http://www.div-overlay.com/vendetta2.jpg)
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Sorry guys, I thought you were talking RAM, my bad.
I have an ASUS Silent Knight II as my E8400 Cooler. At idle the CPU temp is 27 degrees. The Cores are at 35 degrees each under load.
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Use Artic Silver. MrRip back me up on this. Supposed to be best if I am not mistakin.
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Use Artic Silver. MrRip back me up on this. Supposed to be best if I am not mistakin.
Depends on what the bottom of your heatsink is made of before you choose a thermal paste. Yes Artic Silver is top notch but i your using aluminum rather then copper there are better alternatives.