Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: Serenity on January 29, 2009, 04:49:33 PM
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Alright, ever since I got this new computer, I have had an issue with stick spiking. At first, I just thought I had a crappy stick, because just as I got the new computer, my 2nd Saitek X-45 broke, and I had to downgrade to an ST-290. However, in December, I bought myself a brand new X-52 Pro hoping that would be a little less spiky, but nothing. It seems on both computers I have (Both being new, and not the old one I used with my X-45) there is some spiking, but my slightly higher-end PC with the video card seems to spike more than my other no-video-card-PC. Its not a LOT of spiking, but it seems like my plane snaps into a stall when I am being very smooth on the stick. It seems as if Im flying the plane JUST right with my input on the stick, but the stick itself amplifies anything I do in its input and snaps her into a stall. Its only my Y-axis I have issues with, and when in a neutral position, looking at the Map Controller window in AH, the last 2 digits on the Y-axis flash between 30-something and 90-something too fast for me to read either number. I have tried scaling, I have moved deadband and damping all the way to the top, and nothing stops that flutter, and all the increased deadband and damping do is make my plane react more slowly before the over-control and stall.
One suggestion was that I get a powered USB port, something I plug into an AC Adapter so the X-52 isn't drawing too much power, or spiking due to loss of power. Would this help at all?
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watch the lines in the blue boxes when the scaling window is open in the game. With the dead band all the way down, if those numbers jumping are big enough to effect the stick, you'll see the line jumping a bit in both boxes. Adjust the dead band up a bit, click to the ok to save it and reopen the scaling window. Watch the lines again. The "actual" line should still bounce with the number change, but the scaled one shouls be steady.
I don't know if the 30-90 jumps are enough to really effect things, it just might be the way this stick reacts. Some sticks are just a bit more sensitive than others.
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watch the lines in the blue boxes when the scaling window is open in the game. With the dead band all the way down, if those numbers jumping are big enough to effect the stick, you'll see the line jumping a bit in both boxes. Adjust the dead band up a bit, click to the ok to save it and reopen the scaling window. Watch the lines again. The "actual" line should still bounce with the number change, but the scaled one shouls be steady.
I don't know if the 30-90 jumps are enough to really effect things, it just might be the way this stick reacts. Some sticks are just a bit more sensitive than others.
Alright, thanks. So no, dont bother investing in a powered USB port?
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Alright, thanks. So no, dont bother investing in a powered USB port?
I would use one, the newer sticks with their bells and whistles are going to draw more power.
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got it thanks!
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We just had a thread about this, just last week.
Many recommend a powered usb hub (including CH reps and Homeboy), but I'd much rather plug it into my motherboard so long as you have enough power being put out by your power supply. I feel the MB is much more stable in the long run, as long as you don't cut power to the power supply when shutting down.
Personal preference, I suppose.
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We just had a thread about this, just last week.
Many recommend a powered usb hub (including CH reps and Homeboy), but I'd much rather plug it into my motherboard so long as you have enough power being put out by your power supply. I feel the MB is much more stable in the long run, as long as you don't cut power to the power supply when shutting down.
Personal preference, I suppose.
Sorry Del, didnt mean to bring up an already-discussed topic.
The MB one sounds a bit more complex to me, and just a little more expensive, which is definitely an issue.
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In the back of your computer, you'll find 2-6 USB ports. Those ports are attached right to your motherboard...
All I'm saying is if you have a big enough power supply, imho, you don't need the hub. Other people will disagree with me, it is all a matter of personal preference.
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In the back of your computer, you'll find 2-6 USB ports. Those ports are attached right to your motherboard...
All I'm saying is if you have a big enough power supply, imho, you don't need the hub. Other people will disagree with me, it is all a matter of personal preference.
Im thinking the power supply to my computer may be running a bit shy. This isn't a very high end computer, and its the only one I have ever owned with a graphics card, so im thinking power may be running a bit short. Ive been flying with the LED lights and MFD shut off, and that has actually stopped the spiking, so power seems to be the cause.
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Ive been flying with the LED lights and MFD shut off, and that has actually stopped the spiking, so power seems to be the cause.
In your case, I'd go with the powered hub. Belkin makes real nice ones...
(http://catalog.belkin.com/images/product/F5U706/STD1_F5U706.jpg)
This one was $18 on Newegg about 4 weeks ago, compared to its normal $50.
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In your case, I'd go with the powered hub. Belkin makes real nice ones...
(http://catalog.belkin.com/images/product/F5U706/STD1_F5U706.jpg)
This one was $18 on Newegg about 4 weeks ago, compared to its normal $50.
Saw a nice $12 one on NewEgg, and im talking to TilDeath to see if he has anything in stock. Id rather pay an AH junkie than a corporation, lol.
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Me too, that is why I'm buying my new system from him.
As soon as the system comes in, I plan on being the biggest mouth peice for his company.
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Make sure you have your usb hub roots set so they don't turn off when not in use. You have to uncheck the power management button in properties under hardware.
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In the back of your computer, you'll find 2-6 USB ports. Those ports are attached right to your motherboard...
All I'm saying is if you have a big enough power supply, imho, you don't need the hub. Other people will disagree with me, it is all a matter of personal preference.
The problem with some mainboard USB ports is that they do not output sufficient power, regardless if you have a big enough PSU. This happens with quite a few of the lower tier/quality brand of mainboard manufacturers and rarely encounter this problem with your better quality mainboards. If your mainboard's USB ports is outputting the necessary power, then by all means use it and save some money.
ack-ack
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I don't know if the 30-90 jumps are enough to really effect things, it just might be the way this stick reacts. Some sticks are just a bit more sensitive than others.
Depending on the stick, it can be enough to throw a plane out of auto-pilot.
One thing about seeing spikes with a USB joystick. Seeing spikes means there is something wrong, USB joysticks are digital and should not spike if they are working and calibrated properly. Only those that use legacy analog joysticks should expect to see some type of normal spikes (due to the analog signals being sent to the game port).
If you see that your USB joystick is spiking it can be caused by:
- Improper calibration in Windows
- Dirty contact on the potentiometer
- Dead or faulty potentiometer
- Loose connection to the potentiometer contact
- Faulty USB port (not outputting the necessary 5volts)
- Defective joystick/controller (usually something with the wire harness)
ack-ack
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this probably won't relate to many (since the oddness of the setup)
but I use both an x45 and CH stick, and CH pedals. I use the x45 throttle only, the stick part just sits to the side of my monitor.
no matter what I try if all 3 are in the belkin hub the CH pedals go all flaky and spike all over. this is on multiple PC's too.
it only works if I put the CH stick and pedals into the PC directly, then mouse, keyboard, x45 in the belkin hub.
just a tip in case you have some odd spiking problem.
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Depending on the stick, it can be enough to through a plane out of auto-pilot.
One thing about seeing spikes with a USB joystick. Seeing spikes means there is something wrong, USB joysticks are digital and should not spike if they are working and calibrated properly. Only those that use legacy analog joysticks should expect to see some type of normal spikes (due to the analog signals being sent to the game port).
If you see that your USB joystick is spiking it can be caused by:
- Improper calibration in Windows
- Dirty contact on the potentiometer
- Dead or faulty potentiometer
- Loose connection to the potentiometer contact
- Faulty USB port (not outputting the necessary 5volts)
- Defective joystick/controller (usually something with the wire harness)
ack-ack
I don't think its a defective stick, as the problem seems to be much worse on one computer than another. One interesting thing about the X-52 Pro, is unlike all of the other sticks Ive had, I cannot calibrate it in windows. Ive looked for the button all over, and its not in the Game Controller console in the device manager. I can do everything else to the stick there including change the MFD, change the colors of the LEDs, but there is no calibrate option.
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I don't think its a defective stick, as the problem seems to be much worse on one computer than another. One interesting thing about the X-52 Pro, is unlike all of the other sticks Ive had, I cannot calibrate it in windows. Ive looked for the button all over, and its not in the Game Controller console in the device manager. I can do everything else to the stick there including change the MFD, change the colors of the LEDs, but there is no calibrate option.
From what I hear, they auto calibrate so there is no place to do it manually. And the reason your stick is worst on one computer than the other may be that one computer has a weaker powersupply than the other.
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From what I hear, they auto calibrate so there is no place to do it manually. And the reason your stick is worst on one computer than the other may be that one computer has a weaker powersupply than the other.
Thats what im thinking. The worse one has a graphics card, and a couple other fancy things I think, so theres more of a power drain
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One suggestion was that I get a powered USB port, something I plug into an AC Adapter so the X-52 isn't drawing too much power, or spiking due to loss of power. Would this help at all?
I think the powered USB hub is a MUST with the X52.
Every problem I had with my X52 was solved just by spending $30.
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I'm wondering if they should go to some kind of super usb connection or a dedicated game port again. The x52 pro has many features including the display. So it has to use a considerable amount of resources.
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yep - get a powered usb hub
have had saitek sticks since my 1st analog X36 way back when and have always found that a powered hub stabilizes their usb sticks