Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Help and Training => Topic started by: Vudak on March 06, 2009, 07:18:05 AM
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Over the years I've heard that I should be flying with Akak's stick scaling, or something much like it, but I've yet to actually go ahead and do that... The biggest reason is because I do not understand what exactly it will do in regards to what I should look out for, what is going to work better/worse, etc. Am I going to have to relearn flying, or will it be a minor adjustment? I prefer a style of aggressive stallfighting, if that matters...
I'm using a CH Fighterstick, Pro Throttle, and Pro Peddals. As of now, I've been using just the default scaling, and it seems to work out ok. I'm wondering if I would really see that much difference, and if so, in what regard? I don't have any idea what the scaling bars do/represent so when I look at the screen shots, I don't really know what to make of it.
Can anyone explain this to me in 4th grade language? I am not the most technical of people :)
Thanks,
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If your happy with your stick, why mess with it?
Basically the scaling and such just smooths out your hand movements. Seeing not all stick are the same you have to have some adjustment. I have a cross between Murdrs and Ak-AK settings. For my roll I have all the sliders at the top, for my rudder they start about a third UP from the bottom on the left and go to the top right corner in a strait line. My elevators start in the same place, but climb to the top right corner in a graceful arc. :D
I'm pretty easy on my stick. I was trying to transition over to FR n AWIII when I came over to AH so I was still very aware of "trying to be smooth to save "E". On the other hand, I have an AV8TOR stick from Saitek that I used while on the road. It was much more sensitive and all the slider setting I used for the CH gear weren't even close for that stick. So to be able to fly like I normally did...which was mediocre at best :eek: I had to really move the slider much farther down toward the bottom of the scale.
Scaling isn't going to give you an advantage other than making you "ABLE" to control your plane better. If you have a lite touch you can run closer towards the top because you have slow easy movement and that translates to smooth movements of the controls. If your heavy handed, and yank the stick off the desk often then you'll need to move the slider towards the bottom which delays the inputs slightly so that the same "YANK" one guy does moves the controls on the plane as smooth as the guy who is easy on his stick.
AK-AK's setting are a good starting point.
1. They are posted and easy to find.
2. They are used by a well known, and shall we say above average pilot :D (means you start out with confidence in the settings)
3. They are not too aggressive a setting (which would make it even MORE frustrating to learn the game)
So like I said at the beginning............. If your happy with your settings, why mess with it? :aok
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The 10 slider represents 10% of the RAW distance on your stick from neutral to the full throw for that axis. If all sliders were all the way to the top, you'd have a one-to-one or linear response - 10% of throw on stick would equal 10% deflection of the corresponding control surface. Since you have the default setup, choose the Y axis (elevators) and watch the green indicators on the right for RAW and SCALED as you pull back and forth on the stick. See how the SCALED (Control Surface) position lags the RAW (Stick ) position? Move all of the sliders to the top (Go ahead, you can't break anything) and see how you have a linear or one-to-one response now. You stick throw equals control surface response. RAW = SCALED.
Some people fly with sliders all the way to the top, some at default and others at some other preference. All the way at the top is very sensitive, obviously, so if you're not smooth, you're going to black out faster, perhaps stall a little quicker and have some nose bounce or pilot-induced oscillation while your heart is pounding away trying to get that kill. You still have full deflection of control surfaces at the extreme throw of your stick, scaling is just adjusting how things feel until you get to full throw.
As I said, everyone does it different. I use a smooth curve starting from about half way for elevators and rudders, but have all aileron sliders all the way to the top. The agility of an aircraft is usually defined by its roll rate, so my reasoning is that since you don't pull G's with aileron roll, I can't think of any reason I would want to scale aileron deflection. Think about it, don't you end up setting some bank angle before you use elevators in most maneuvers? The faster you can set you roll, the further ahead of your adversary you'll be. Try it... you might be surprised how much faster your roll rates will seem. You can always hit the default button and start all over again if want.
I hope this helps.
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So like I said at the beginning............. If your happy with your settings, why mess with it? :aok
Thanks guys,
I was just curious if it was going to have some effect in the same light as, say stall limiter would (although I figured to a much lesser extent). I'm reading from both of your posts that it does not (at least the elevator), so I'm not too anxious to relearn anything I've already got a handle on :aok
Thank you for saving me the frustration :)
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The agility of an aircraft is usually defined by its roll rate...
Think about it, don't you end up setting some bank angle before you use elevators in most maneuvers? The faster you can set you roll, the further ahead of your adversary you'll be.
Rolex,
I couldn't have said it better myself! This is why I fly the FW 90% of the time. And why I find myself dumbfounded when people ask me why I fly the FW or "How do you keep beating my <insert plane of choice here, usually NOT another FW>?"
Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread, its just I have never been able to come up with any good answers to the previous two questions other than "because it has such good roll rate, and cannons of course :D"
<S> Dano
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Rolex,
I couldn't have said it better myself! This is why I fly the FW 90% of the time. And why I find myself dumbfounded when people ask me why I fly the FW or "How do you keep beating my <insert plane of choice here, usually NOT another FW>?"
Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread, its just I have never been able to come up with any good answers to the previous two questions other than "because it has such good roll rate, and cannons of course :D"
<S> Dano
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<still loves his 38 o deth. :D
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Have some questions on HOW to use stick scaling, I'm running AHII on VISTA, I downloaded AKAK's Stickscale to AHII in the settings folder, studied the pix on how AKAK has his axis settings, opened up the stick.cfg file & found the numeric representation, which makes sense to me.
I didn't find any other stick.cfg file, thereby, I surmised that all I've to do is to fly in
AHII & AKAK's stick scale will be represented under MAP CONTROLLERS, to my chagrin, that never happened!
What did I miss, or did wrong, ur advice & instruction is requested. Thank you.
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Have some questions on HOW to use stick scaling, I'm running AHII on VISTA, I downloaded AKAK's Stickscale to AHII in the settings folder, studied the pix on how AKAK has his axis settings, opened up the stick.cfg file & found the numeric representation, which makes sense to me.
I didn't find any other stick.cfg file, thereby, I surmised that all I've to do is to fly in
AHII & AKAK's stick scale will be represented under MAP CONTROLLERS, to my chagrin, that never happened!
What did I miss, or did wrong, ur advice & instruction is requested. Thank you.
Try this. These are the instructions on how to manually edit your config file to add my stick scale. The only thing I've changed since I posted this is I moved the sliders all the way up for the Roll scaling. When I get home I'll see if still have my .cfg saved somewhere on my HDD (don't play AH and deleted all of my AH related files) but I don't think I did.
At the time I didn't realize that the file host had a time limit as too how long your file will be hosted so I made another thread that explains how to manually edit the stick config files to adjust the scaling.
Also, thanks.
quote:
Here you go beaston, this is the scale that I use for my stick.
Just open your stick config file in your AH2 settings folder (be sure to back it up before editing) and copy and paste these lines over the ones in the config file.
Roll
0.45,0.49,0.53,0.57,0.62,0.67,0.73,0.83,0.93,1.00
Pitch
0.45,0.49,0.53,0.57,0.62,0.67,0.73,0.83,0.93,1.00
Yaw
0.45,0.49,0.53,0.57,0.62,0.67,0.73,0.83,0.93,1.00
In each of your config files for your controllers, just look for the line that will say "Axis # Roll/Pitch/Yaw". Below those lines, there will be numbers similiar to the ones above. Those are your stick scale numbers. Just copy and paste the above numbers and save your config file. Hope it helps.
Hope this helps.
ack-ack
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I use a complete CH setup and i run everything with all scaling sliders at the top, the CH is smooth and precise enough to get away with it, not sure about other makes.
Mal.
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Thx AKAK to ur fast response to my query, I've changed the Roll Axis to 1.00 all the way across leaving the Pitch & Yaw as is, Saved the info. In my setting folder the config (.cfg) file is listed as "stick.cfg" (quotation marks are mine).
Do I need to do anything, change or add anything to the config file to make it show up in my AH2 Map Controller file? Reason for my question is that I still have the old config of .010 increments till 1.00 in the Map Controller instead of yours.
How can I under Map Controllers specify exactly the numbers I want on the scales, such as .053, .067
etc?? instead of approximating where the mentioned #s should be on the scales?
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I did something similar, I scaled my stick to allow a gentle scale with yaw and pitch. I have absolutely no scale on roll as the B38 I fly already has a bad roll rate.
I wouldn't recommend this unless you're a full time B38 flyer, it will take a real gentle hand in something that rolls well like a 190.
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Since it was mentioned, here's mine.
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/pitch.jpg)
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/roll.jpg)
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/rudder.jpg)
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Murdr, my scaling is very close to yours...
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now i have a question?
i see you guys talking about replacing numbers in a .cfg file, then i see murdr put up the stick scaling that i know about. is one different than the other, or is it just two different ways of accomplishing the same thing?
thanks!
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Two ways of doing the same thing. Murdrs views your "trying" to match the same slider positions, Ak-Ak view is your setting the exact same views. The sliders just set the numbers, so AK-AKs way is more precise thats all.
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Just for comparison-
I'll post mine here, since I'm one of those who doesn't like the more "normal" scaling. I like mine all lined up right across the top. I didn't like having mine scaled on a "slope", as it made my stick feel sluggis, mushy, etc.
I do fly with very controlled, small, smooth, stick movements though. When I had mine scaled I felt like I was teaching myself to over-control.
I switched to this set-up with my original stick (can't remember the brand/model) and found it also worked well when I switched to the Saitek Cyborg EVO, and has worked well for the last few years with my Saitek X52.
I won't say that one way works better than another, just that this works best for me.
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/RudderScaling.jpg)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/ElevatorScaling.jpg)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/AileronScaling.jpg)
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Gratitude to ALL of you who submitted ur stickscales, I sincerely appreciate ur assistance :aok
:salute
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Since it was mentioned, here's mine.
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/pitch.jpg)
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/roll.jpg)
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/rudder.jpg)
Thanks Murdr
I just got rudder pedals and could not hit anything with them. Felt to jumpy, but with the scaling you should help a bunch.
thanks <S>
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I use default.
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Mine is close to mtnman's.
BUT I start 0 @ an inch down, and scale up so 40 is all way up.
I felt it was a bit "touchy" when all were all the way, and the nose bounce was fairly pronounced.
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been flyin like this for years,
could be why i am no good :rofl
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg229/WWhiskey/scale.jpg)
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Everyone's is different . I first learned about scaling many years ago and found that depending on what stick your using some worked better than others.
AckAck's is a great starting point for CH sticks thats for sure. I talked many of the A8's into changing theres back in 07. Not everyone used ch products but the configuration did help the majority of them and kills increased rapidly from that point on.
Turn off the STALL LIMITER!!! Those training wheels will hamper your success in AH. It is meant for the new guy so he can get a handle on the game a little quicker. You can not compete with the majority of players if you have it on.
Here's mine.
CH Combatstick USB
3,18
X Axis
255,32767,65535,0.004000,0.000000,0.250000
AXIS,ROLL,0,1
0.69,0.72,0.75,0.77,0.81,0.84,0.88,0.91,0.94,1.00
AXIS,ROLL,0,1
0.54,0.58,0.63,0.67,0.72,0.77,0.85,0.91,0.95,1.00
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
Y Axis
255,32511,65535,0.019000,0.084000,0.250000
AXIS,PITCH,0,1
0.59,0.62,0.67,0.72,0.76,0.80,0.85,0.91,0.94,1.00
AXIS,PITCH,0,1
0.50,0.54,0.59,0.63,0.67,0.72,0.78,0.85,0.92,1.00
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
Z Axis
0,32767,65535,0.050000,0.100000,0.250000
Enabled Stall Limiter - This option helps prevent you from stalling by limiting the motion of your controls, particularly your rudder and elevators, to ranges that will not cause a stall. It also prevents you from flying your plane to the limits of its performance envelope. Learn to fly without it!
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Just for comparison-
I'll post mine here, since I'm one of those who doesn't like the more "normal" scaling. I like mine all lined up right across the top. I didn't like having mine scaled on a "slope", as it made my stick feel sluggis, mushy, etc.
I do fly with very controlled, small, smooth, stick movements though. When I had mine scaled I felt like I was teaching myself to over-control.
I switched to this set-up with my original stick (can't remember the brand/model) and found it also worked well when I switched to the Saitek Cyborg EVO, and has worked well for the last few years with my Saitek X52.
I won't say that one way works better than another, just that this works best for me.
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/RudderScaling.jpg)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/ElevatorScaling.jpg)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/AileronScaling.jpg)
I do the same thing.
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Just for comparison-
I'll post mine here, since I'm one of those who doesn't like the more "normal" scaling. I like mine all lined up right across the top. I didn't like having mine scaled on a "slope", as it made my stick feel sluggis, mushy, etc.
I do fly with very controlled, small, smooth, stick movements though. When I had mine scaled I felt like I was teaching myself to over-control.
I switched to this set-up with my original stick (can't remember the brand/model) and found it also worked well when I switched to the Saitek Cyborg EVO, and has worked well for the last few years with my Saitek X52.
I won't say that one way works better than another, just that this works best for me.
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/RudderScaling.jpg)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/ElevatorScaling.jpg)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/AileronScaling.jpg)
the same with my X52 setup with ch pro peds except the dead band and damping are all the way down
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1. Is there a difference between scaling the stick with all the sliders all the way up, and just turning off the scaling?
2. Am I missing the purpose of dampening? What does a small delay between input and control deflection do for you?
Just for comparison-
I'll post mine here, since I'm one of those who doesn't like the more "normal" scaling. I like mine all lined up right across the top. I didn't like having mine scaled on a "slope", as it made my stick feel sluggis, mushy, etc.
I do fly with very controlled, small, smooth, stick movements though. When I had mine scaled I felt like I was teaching myself to over-control.
I switched to this set-up with my original stick (can't remember the brand/model) and found it also worked well when I switched to the Saitek Cyborg EVO, and has worked well for the last few years with my Saitek X52.
I won't say that one way works better than another, just that this works best for me.
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/RudderScaling.jpg)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/ElevatorScaling.jpg)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m309/Mtnman_03/AileronScaling.jpg)
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1. Is there a difference between scaling the stick with all the sliders all the way up, and just turning off the scaling?
2. Am I missing the purpose of dampening? What does a small delay between input and control deflection do for you?
I believe without having scaling on you can not move the dead band and damping sliders.
Moving all your sliders up and only working with the dead band and damping kinda makes sense....especially if you use CH products since they have a separate program that you can use to set your stick up just right.
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Since it was mentioned, here's mine.
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/pitch.jpg)
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/roll.jpg)
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/rudder.jpg)
I love this set-up murder ty :salute
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You know, I broke down and tried the AKAK stick scaling last night - but I think I'm just too ham-fisted. I normally fly with no scaling on yaw or roll, and a linear scale on pitch... I know, I'm weird. I tried the AKAK scale in offline practice and I kept stalling in all but the simplest of maneuvers. I need to figure out something though, as I am finding that I do a little bit of nose bouncing when I get saddled up 200ft behind an enemy. There's nothing more frustrating than a good merge on a bandit 200ft on his six and then yawing or pitching the fire right over/next to him.