Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Help and Training => Topic started by: Noobersauce on November 17, 2009, 02:14:59 PM
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Just started playing......
Everytime I move my joystick to fast my plane shakes and i get stall warning. Can i adjust setttings on my joystick for a smoother ride? please refain from all the "joystick jokes" that can be had from this sentence :)
also my ping is 67 in game is that bad, good, average or effing terrible?
Also does frame rate matter??
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Everytime I move my joystick to fast my plane shakes and i get stall warning. Can i adjust setttings on my joystick for a smoother ride?
Yes you can. Visit the Trainer Corps website http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/ and look for "Setup Controllers". All explained there.
also my ping is 67 in game is that bad, good, average or effing terrible?
Also does frame rate matter??
The ping is not that important, it's (almost) all about connection stability. Ping of 67 itself is pretty good.
Frame rate can matter to some extend, you gaming experience may suffer at low FR's. Whats you usual one?
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Take a look at the trainers site http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/ (http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/) if you look down the menu on the left under Game Setup they have a nice write up and adjusting the joystick. There will be a little trial and error till you find something you are comfortable with. Between setup and some practice you'll get a handle on how the planes behave.
Frame rates, you're generally looking for anything about 25-26 frames a second (or higher). If you are consistently pinging the servers at 67ms you're more than fine, what's more important avoiding wild spikes in latency and dropping packets of data on the way to the server, the game is quite playable at much higher pings as long as the packets are getting to the server.
*edit* damn you snail, beat me to it. :D
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thanks guys i will give the setup controller thingy a try
frame rates are 25-36 (i beleive on average)
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Your frame rate looks good :aok. Make sure it doesn't crap out in huge fights.
Re: joystick - I personally believe it's more important to learn smooth handling than it is to mess with joystick settings and scaling. In other words, learn to make precise and smooth inputs with your hand rather than relying on your joystick scaling to smooth out your inputs. Just my opinion - you can of course set your scaling with the links these guys have provided. I do have my elevator input scaled myself, but it is not anywhere near as dramatic as the standard 0%-100% scaling. Mine's 70%-100%.
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Scaling often depends on what stick you have.
CH sticks can often be very smooth with no scaling at all, or even all maxed out across the board.
However try that with a saitek or a logitech and you've got a stick that you can't fly with.
Yes you will in time learn to have a smoother hand on the stick. And once that happens you can tighten up on the scaling.
But for starting its hard to beat a good smooth scaled curve, where 0 is at very bottom. And it curves up smoothly to 90 kind of like the ) only tipped on its side.
Roll you can generally leave pretty aggressive, as it won't stall you out.
If you have twist rudder try adding a bit of deadband to that axis.
So you don't add rudder just banking the plane.
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However try that with a saitek or a logitech and you've got a stick that you can't fly with.
Are they that bad? I've only flown with my MS stick.
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Scaling often depends on what stick you have.
CH sticks can often be very smooth with no scaling at all, or even all maxed out across the board.
However try that with a saitek or a logitech and you've got a stick that you can't fly with.
Yes you will in time learn to have a smoother hand on the stick. And once that happens you can tighten up on the scaling.
But for starting its hard to beat a good smooth scaled curve, where 0 is at very bottom. And it curves up smoothly to 90
Roll you can generally leave pretty aggressive, as it won't stall you out.
If you have twist rudder try adding a bit of deadband to that axis.
So you don't add rudder just banking the plane.
Saitek X52 I suggest moving all of the sliders for roll/pitch to 100 across the board. It works out really well for a lot of us, but yea a more gentle hand is required. The response you get out of your bird once you get used to it is well worth the effort.
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If you have twist rudder try adding a bit of deadband to that axis.
So you don't add rudder just banking the plane.
Wow, call me a moron but I never knew you could apply deadband to the rudder axis. D'oh!! I've been flying with a twisty stick for years and have always considered a little "unwanted rudder" to be a small price to pay for the large ACTUAL price I don't have to pay for rudder pedals. I've always tried to keep my movement as non-twisty as possible for this reason but still inevitably got some rudder input.
That's why I love these new player help threads. Either I can throw in my two cents of advice, or I end up being the one who gets helped! Thanks for the tip, Ghost. Appreciated.
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Noobersauce check to see if you have STALL LIMITER turned off. It's on by default.
Clipboard>Options>Prefs>Flight
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Wish I had a ping of 67. :aok
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Bad, no, sensitive on a par with a MS stick, often equal or in some cases more so.
More sensitive than a CH or TM stick, beyond a doubt.
Are they that bad? I've only flown with my MS stick.
Just as a FYI, here are a few examples.
Just a slight curve, this is what I fly with on my MS Sidewinder.
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/ghosth/Pitch2.jpg)
For a really sensitive stick, or a new hand you might go with something like below.
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/ghosth/Pitch1.jpg)
You can see this has a bit more curve to it. As you train your head and hand to work together, you can
often change scaling to get more response. Like what Humble was talking about.
However, in my experience, if your new, and you don't have a very smooth hand, and CH gear. Setting inputs to the top across the board usually results in me talking through that person back into a good scaling. Try it if you like it, but backup your settings folder first!
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/ghosth/Rudder.jpg)
This is how I have my rudder setup, pretty much default scaling, but with extra deadband.
The easy way to find that sweet spot for your deadband is to highlight rudder.
Go to advanced, now without adding rudder, just move the stick back and forth. Around in circles, etc, like you would when you are flying. If you see the "raw" and "Scaled" lines moving, add deadband until you can do so without moving the "scaled" line.
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Just curious, but are you talking about you stalling when you push too hard? Or saying your stick is off calibration? From what you wrote it seems like you are fighting the stall limiter.
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That's kinda what I was thinking. All the scaling in the world wont help if you've a heavy hand or are just flying the plane beyond it's aerodynamic limits. While scaling is important, a smooth hand at the controls is essential. Try flying a spit for a while then switch over to a P40. You will immediately understand the value of a smooth hand.
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Bad, no, sensitive on a par with a MS stick, often equal or in some cases more so.
More sensitive than a CH or TM stick, beyond a doubt.
Just as a FYI, here are a few examples.
Just a slight curve, this is what I fly with on my MS Sidewinder.
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/ghosth/Pitch2.jpg)
For a really sensitive stick, or a new hand you might go with something like below.
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/ghosth/Pitch1.jpg)
You can see this has a bit more curve to it. As you train your head and hand to work together, you can
often change scaling to get more response. Like what Humble was talking about.
However, in my experience, if your new, and you don't have a very smooth hand, and CH gear. Setting inputs to the top across the board usually results in me talking through that person back into a good scaling. Try it if you like it, but backup your settings folder first!
(http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/ghosth/Rudder.jpg)
This is how I have my rudder setup, pretty much default scaling, but with extra deadband.
The easy way to find that sweet spot for your deadband is to highlight rudder.
Go to advanced, now without adding rudder, just move the stick back and forth. Around in circles, etc, like you would when you are flying. If you see the "raw" and "Scaled" lines moving, add deadband until you can do so without moving the "scaled" line.
Ghosth , is that how you got your sidewinder set up . I have one and I have all the slide's alll the way up , not on the deadband thing though .
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Yes flinch thats how I have mine setup, however, its all subjective.
If yours works for you the way it is, leave it be.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. :)
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Ok ,Thx .
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I agree with Nimble,the roll axis is best set to a 100% sensitivity,maybe just a touch of dampening so your not fighting to say level on the roll axis. The reason is simple,rolling doesnt inpart much G force so it doesnt srub off "E",that and the fact your turn is started with a roll make a responsive roll axis a positive thing.
OTH the yaw and pitch axis both scrub "E" so if your heavy handed you might want to adjust those axis accordingly.Ghosth excellent post show afew of the different variations you can use.
If you fly 1 plane all the time you can even setup your stick for just that plane,beware tho it might make other plane difficult to handle. I'd highly suggest you spend some time in the TA or offline and experiment with the settings,using 1 axis at a time till you find what works best for you.
If you really mess it up,you can always set it back to default and start again.... ya been there done that. :devil
:salute
PS: look me up in the TA and I'll gladly assist anyone with stick setup if need be.
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Dead band on the Rudder axis in twisty sticks is very important. Doing straight aileron rolls is far less energy consuming than aileron rolls with a bit of rudder mixed in by accident. It also helps cut down on nose bounce when adjusting for a dead six shot.