Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: AKDogg on December 21, 2009, 10:47:43 PM
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For some that were asking me about button replacements for the MSPP2 and MSFF2 joysticks.
Trigger button is:
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=B3M-6009virtualkey65300000virtualkey653-B3M-6009
Buttons 2-8 are these:
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=B3F-1002virtualkey65300000virtualkey653-B3F-1002
Hat switch buttons are these:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron/B3F-3122/?qs=Pjd0UV7BHP8dd5ca38Hs9g%3d%3d
BTW, 4 buttons are used for the hat switch.
The items u need to change out the buttons are a phillips screw driver to take the joystick apart. A solder sucker ( http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-DESOLDERING-PUMP/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_c ), and a 25 watt soldering iron ( http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-25W-750-Degrees/dp/B00018AR4A/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1261456997&sr=1-19 )along with some solder ( http://www.amazon.com/Solder-Rosin-Core-032dia-Lead/dp/B0002LLW4K/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1261457075&sr=1-23 ). Keep in mind, I just post those links so those who don't know what they are, u do now. You can get all these items at radio shack too, except the buttons,lol.
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Thanks AKDogg!
I've got a MS Prec 2 USB with a single bad hat switch button. Might have to think about fixing it.
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Last time I bought the buttons, I bought like 28 of the 2-8 buttons, 20 of the hat switch buttons and 5 of the trigger button. They are very cheap. Alot cheaper then replacing the joystick.
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this needs tobe a sticky
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Also I'd love to see a step by step on how you swap out a hat switch button.
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give me a few days. I will come up with one. Its actually quite simple.
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Not the MS but CH one may help you out.http://snomhf.exofire.net/ (http://snomhf.exofire.net/) under articles and downloads then hat repair.hope this helps.
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Ghosth , I have not been soldering a year yet . I did it no problem . Patience was biggest key for me . I used a small set of vice grips to loosely hold button from front . I then used my soldering iron to remove solder from back of circuit board . I wasn't over gentle on buttons coming out . I was patient with the heat .After button removed I cleaned up holes that the legs on the button mount in . I used some good flux in addition to the flux in the core of the solder . The ease of using hat switch again was just great . I would replace all four buttons while I was at it . All eight buttons work just great now . Matter of a fact I would replace all of them while I was at it .Lightly pressing any button and instant response is a joy . To OP thnx for the link I ordered a a bunch of every one . I will never let stick get that bad again . The solder sucker looks cool . I keep my tips in real good shape . They are all very shiny silver when cold . The solder came off with just a little patience . I also recommend one of these . http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75170-X-tra-Hands-Magnifier/dp/B0006NDZR6/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b (http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75170-X-tra-Hands-Magnifier/dp/B0006NDZR6/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b)
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Hlbly I was hoping that this was what I'd hear. :)
And yes that is why I was angling for a step by step also.
I was hoping you were reading this thread and would get yours fixed this way.
Glad the operation came out ok.
I think I'll be doing this myself at some point in the next month or so.
As I have a few ms prec 2 usb sticks that have either got a hat switch going funky, or a base button not working.
I suspect your right, if one hat switch went bad, the other 3 can't be far behind.
If your doing one, might as well do them all.
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The other problem that this doesn't address is that the plastic stem of the hat switch and the "socket" that it went into both showed signs of wear by the time that the hat switch went on mine. Do you find that replacing the switches fully restores functionality, or do you still have problems with back right (or is back left??? It's been a while and I can't recall) from the stem that pushes the button failing to push it unless you push it at just the right angle??
If so, I may dig out the pieces if I didn't toss them, and fix one of my old ones.
<S>
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Well, my MSPP2 is about 10yrs old or more. My joystick has wear in it but after replacing the buttons, everything worked perfectly. Yes the joystick is alittle loose but what would u expect from its age and being plastic. I just happy all the buttons work great and have no issues.
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Here is a small tutorial for the upper joystick buttons. Not highly detailed but I sure you guys can figure it out from it. If you need more, let me know.
:salute
www.arabian-knights.org/files/MSPP2.doc
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The other problem that this doesn't address is that the plastic stem of the hat switch and the "socket" that it went into both showed signs of wear by the time that the hat switch went on mine. Do you find that replacing the switches fully restores functionality, or do you still have problems with back right (or is back left??? It's been a while and I can't recall) from the stem that pushes the button failing to push it unless you push it at just the right angle??
If so, I may dig out the pieces if I didn't toss them, and fix one of my old ones.
<S>
I used some epoxy and reinforced the worn socket hat switch goes into . It works like new dont have any problems viewing .
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Skuzzy please sticky this, or make a joystick/controls page and sticky it there.
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To add a "trick" I use with my M.S. joystick.
I went to Radio Shack and bought a pray bottle of Precision Electronics Cleaner for @ $10 bucks.
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2264867w345.jpg)
When I have a button going bad I will take apart my J/S and liberally spray this on the offending button while I am pushing it. (I use tweezers for the 4 way hat buttons and they work well for button pushing) Try to avoid getting this stuff on your fingers. It is is caustic stuff.
I have also in the past used a shallow glass bowl I had (we talking REALLY small and shallow) filled with a bit of the contact cleaner and laid the circuit board so just the buttons were submerged. (this is again for the hat buttons)
I lost the glass bowl in my house fire so I don't use that method anymore. Both work.
I have also fixed the base buttons a couple of times but, for me, it seems that hat buttons are the ones I have the most problems with.
I don't think the buttons are going "bad" as much as they are getting gummed up with crud and this fixes that. It took some trial and error but once I was able to work this stuff into the button and let it dry (sometimes it has taken 2-4 applications) the button works just fine.
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You have to be cautious on what electrical cleaner u use. There are cleaners out there that will clean, but also eat the plastic. Be very careful.
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ya using rubbing alcohal it totally fixed my hat switches but now my main triggers gone. either way its time to place and order
Thanks a gain Dogg and lute.
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Dogg is the main trigger button from a MSFF1 the same on the MSFF2?
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I don't rmember. Been a long time since I seen the insides of a MSFF1.
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Well got my buttons in the mail today so ill be doing surgery later this eve.
I sent the gf to radio shack to get a solder sucker but being the dumb girl she is got swindled into buying a "Desoldering" iron. LOL thing was 11 bucks but well worth it, its a soldering iron(but has a hollowed out tip) and solder sucker all in one, ya slip it over the pin and releawse the sucker bulb! Very fast very clean!
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Yea, I had 1 too till the iron went bad. Had to dig out the old fashion sucker, lol.
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surgery was a success! guns read to rip um up!
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Great thread Dogg this is sticky material m8! I'm gonna get myself a few sets of these for spares. Prob gonna have to try replacing the plastic gears soon, was thinking of aluminium or steel gears. That seems to be were the wear and play occurs, been a while since I've had mine open but I remember thinking its was feasible with the right parts any ideas?
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Oh and btw, anyone looking for a REAL force feedback stick this is STILL the daddy, you can buy one 2nd hand spend an hour or so replacing all the buttons good as new and will last another 10 years.
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nice. the trigger on mine crapped out a while back .. this will bring life back to my sidewinder 2 ff :) :salute
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Anyone have any experience with the FFB part of the stick. I have cleaned buttons on Hat Switch and epoxyed broken tab in seat for the stem of Hat switch button, but evey now and then my stick loses FFB. I have t o be very careful when I go AFK because my stick goes "limp" (laugh it up boys). Anyone have this issued too and is there a fix???
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Anyone have any experience with the FFB part of the stick. I have cleaned buttons on Hat Switch and epoxyed broken tab in seat for the stem of Hat switch button, but evey now and then my stick loses FFB. I have t o be very careful when I go AFK because my stick goes "limp" (laugh it up boys). Anyone have this issued too and is there a fix???
It's supposed to go limp when you take your hand off it Coho because it's got an optical dead man's handle built into the grip.
If you want to have a look inside to fault find I wrote a disassembly guide some time ago:-
http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/topic,297141.15.html
I might check the wiring out of the handle first in your case, next the circuit with the IR LED and receiver as it might be falsely reading you have let go.
The guide above has some basic fault finding techniques if I remember correctly.
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Wow great stuff Shida. I have taken the handle assembly apart several times, to clean etc. I have noticed that the older the stick gets the "looser" it becomes, I had a broken tab that seats the hat switch, and was able fix that problem quite easily once I diagnosed the problem. I will take apart the bottom some time soon. I will report back what I find. Once again TY NRShida.
<S>
Carver
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You are welcome, let me know if you need any further help. I have a redundant FFB2 hereabouts so we can Apollo 13 your stick if needs be. Good luck!