Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: DREDger on March 09, 2010, 12:20:41 PM
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I've bought a brand new house and the garage is a standard concrete floor I was thinking of putting epoxy over.
I've had friends who say don't try it yourself, it is way too much hassle, best to hire a professional to do it right.
Anyone have any experience or opinions on the type of garage flooring?
I'm not really a grease monkey, I just want the garage to look nicer and help keep the dust/dirt down. I mainly use the garage to park the cars and occasionally do a project or two from my work bench.
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My grandfather did it to his garage floor by himself and he's 70 years old.
He did say he would have had me do it if he'd have known what a pain in the arse it was. :lol
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Epoxy flooring is an excellent covering. Today its much easier to apply, and many colors available. As any project preparation is crucial in applying epoxy coatings, and you will want to thoroughly prepare the floor. Remove loose material, oils, or wax from the floor. You could rent a Floor buffing machine and use a coarse sand paper to open up the concrete pores for a better bond. Sponge or wet shop vacuum the floor, but make sure floor is completely dry before applying coating. Caulk any joints at floor and wall or epoxy will flow out, tape and protect areas where you'll be working, and mask off edges with tape for a neat finish. If you apply an abrasive non-slip material, wear and old pair of golf shoes if you need to walk out on floor to sprinkle out on the areas you've coated. You'll need plenty of rags, acetone works for clean up or alcohol. M.E.K. works also but is very caustic and should be handled carefully. A small drill and a painters mixing whip should make quick work off mixing parts. Rubber gloves, and old clothes, some folks I've seen have had some interesting reactions to epoxies. Epoxy curing is temperature sensitive, so the cooler it is you'll gain a little more time, so pay attention to your working time with it. You could apply it with a small notch trowel 1/16" X 1/16" and then use flat side of trowel and trowel it flat. The epoxy will flow out smooth so don't about working it too much, just keep amount on floor close to even. Keep small children and animals far away. Use the acetone, a little at a time to clean trowels as needed, or if it epoxy becomes tacky in areas your working it will help trowel glide over material. Piece of cake, heck if they can train a monkey for space orbit you'll do just fine.
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Ive been in a few warehouses where they have this neat sand-paper-ish coating that is impervious to ANYthing, though it is quite expensive....requires tons of prep to floor tho
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I've not go experience with this at all. What costs are you looking at for a two car garage? How would cracks in the concrete interact with the epoxy?
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Best stuff out there
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do)
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/clear+top+coat+floor+paint.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/clear+top+coat+floor+paint.do)
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I've not go experience with this at all. What costs are you looking at for a two car garage? How would cracks in the concrete interact with the epoxy?
It won't, you fill in the cracks and paint over them.
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I've bought a brand new house and the garage is a standard concrete floor I was thinking of putting epoxy over.
I've had friends who say don't try it yourself, it is way too much hassle, best to hire a professional to do it right.
Anyone have any experience or opinions on the type of garage flooring?
I'm not really a grease monkey, I just want the garage to look nicer and help keep the dust/dirt down. I mainly use the garage to park the cars and occasionally do a project or two from my work bench.
Its not real difficult And something you can probably manage yourself so long as it hasnt already been painted. Rustoleum and Quickcrete have a couple of kits out there that as long as you follow the instructions. Are pretty fool proof.
Just remember. The key is in the prep work So dont try and skip a step.
Just follow the instructions and remember to work in squares when your applying the epoxy if your planning on using the decorative chips and you should be fine
Here is a basement floor I did recently for a customer thats probably JUSST a bit more involved that your average garage floor lol
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq198/Drediock/Interiors/BasementfloorBefore.jpg)
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq198/Drediock/Interiors/BasementfloorAfter.jpg)
BW the Behr paint isnt mine LOL
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Epoxy flooring is an excellent covering. Today its much easier to apply, and many colors available. As any project preparation is crucial in applying epoxy coatings, and you will want to thoroughly prepare the floor. Remove loose material, oils, or wax from the floor. You could rent a Floor buffing machine and use a coarse sand paper to open up the concrete pores for a better bond. Sponge or wet shop vacuum the floor, but make sure floor is completely dry before applying coating. Caulk any joints at floor and wall or epoxy will flow out, tape and protect areas where you'll be working, and mask off edges with tape for a neat finish. If you apply an abrasive non-slip material, wear and old pair of golf shoes if you need to walk out on floor to sprinkle out on the areas you've coated. You'll need plenty of rags, acetone works for clean up or alcohol. M.E.K. works also but is very caustic and should be handled carefully. A small drill and a painters mixing whip should make quick work off mixing parts. Rubber gloves, and old clothes, some folks I've seen have had some interesting reactions to epoxies. Epoxy curing is temperature sensitive, so the cooler it is you'll gain a little more time, so pay attention to your working time with it. You could apply it with a small notch trowel 1/16" X 1/16" and then use flat side of trowel and trowel it flat. The epoxy will flow out smooth so don't about working it too much, just keep amount on floor close to even. Keep small children and animals far away. Use the acetone, a little at a time to clean trowels as needed, or if it epoxy becomes tacky in areas your working it will help trowel glide over material. Piece of cake, heck if they can train a monkey for space orbit you'll do just fine.
NO NO floor buffing machine!
Trust me. on a concrete floor that sombish will suddenly "grab" and spin you around like a top. And I dont know you but unless your as big as a silverback gorrilla and just as strong. You aint strong enough to stop it
There are a couple of concrete Orbital floor sander/grinding machines out there specifically for that task. A floor buffer isnt one of them.
Great on wood or a floor that already is real smooth and/or has a finish on it Terrible on bare concrete
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Best stuff out there
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do)
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/clear+top+coat+floor+paint.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/clear+top+coat+floor+paint.do)
Good information there, thanks. Definitely a pricey job.
$180 for 3 gallons of the paint (enough to cover my garage).
After reading the directions I'm a little confused if Paint color chips (no-slip quartz crystals?) and the clear coat would also both be recommended,
which is $45/gal + $40/gal x 3gal = $255. Plus materials for etching, and painting, not sure on a good cost estimate on this.
Not going to be spending that money any time soon (because I rent!), but may mention it to the landlord.
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If you want to etch a concrete floor you could use a muratic acid solution, which is inexpensive. You would have to protect any bare metal finishes from it. Remove them if possible or simply put some petroleum jelly on surface and tape with plastic. After you acid wash a floor its important to neutralize PH, by repeated water wash. Its a lot of work initially, but maintenance is greatly reduced afterward.
"NO NO floor buffing machine!
Trust me. on a concrete floor that sombish will suddenly "grab" and spin you around like a top. And I dont know you but unless your as big as a silverback gorrilla and just as strong. You aint strong enough to stop it
There are a couple of concrete Orbital floor sander/grinding machines out there specifically for that task. A floor buffer isnt one of them.
Great on wood or a floor that already is real smooth and/or has a finish on it Terrible on bare concrete... Posted by: DREDIOCK "
I would disagree with you on this one. Been doing commercial epoxy floor coatings and terrazzos for years using floor grinders from gas engine stone grinders to 3 phase diamond head grinders. Floor buffing machine's are quite manageable, if your not handling it like a gorilla by lifting or dropping control handle at large angles. If he attempts to use either machine he is more likely to find a buffing machine. If either allows you to work easier go for it.
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If you want to etch a concrete floor you could use a muratic acid solution, which is inexpensive. You would have to protect any bare metal finishes from it. Remove them if possible or simply put some petroleum jelly on surface and tape with plastic. After you acid wash a floor its important to neutralize PH, by repeated water wash. Its a lot of work initially, but maintenance is greatly reduced afterward.
"NO NO floor buffing machine!
Trust me. on a concrete floor that sombish will suddenly "grab" and spin you around like a top. And I dont know you but unless your as big as a silverback gorrilla and just as strong. You aint strong enough to stop it
There are a couple of concrete Orbital floor sander/grinding machines out there specifically for that task. A floor buffer isnt one of them.
Great on wood or a floor that already is real smooth and/or has a finish on it Terrible on bare concrete... Posted by: DREDIOCK "
I would disagree with you on this one. Been doing commercial epoxy floor coatings and terrazzos for years using floor grinders from gas engine stone grinders to 3 phase diamond head grinders. Floor buffing machine's are quite manageable, if your not handling it like a gorilla by lifting or dropping control handle at large angles. If he attempts to use either machine he is more likely to find a buffing machine. If either allows you to work easier go for it.
<--30+ years experience in all aspects of painting
I find they work fine till you hit a rough spot. Then they grab and spin you around like a top. And thats without horsing the machine at odd angles
I think then we will agree to disagree. A buffing machine IMO is not the tool for the inexperienced to use.
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My parents bought a used Clarke Floor Scrubber to clean their deck (two large levels) every two years. It's easy to use with one arm and does an exceptional job.
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I've bought a brand new house and the garage is a standard concrete floor I was thinking of putting epoxy over.
I've had friends who say don't try it yourself, it is way too much hassle, best to hire a professional to do it right.
Anyone have any experience or opinions on the type of garage flooring?
I'm not really a grease monkey, I just want the garage to look nicer and help keep the dust/dirt down. I mainly use the garage to park the cars and occasionally do a project or two from my work bench.
Do it now, before you use the garage. I'm building a new house and will epoxy the floor before I start parking there. I did my current house and had to spend a lot of time degreasing and etching, just to make sure I got a good bond. Application is easy and there are a number of decent products out there.
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Hey Guys, thanks alot for all the posts.
Yesterday I was talking to a contractor and he mentioned I might consider doing an acid stain with an acrylic sealant over the top, as opposed to a traditional epoxy.
I actually do like the look of polished concrete, when it has a shine to it, etc.
I know that epoxy will probably be more durable, but I expect the garage will be light duty, just parking cars and a few hobby stuff.
Anyone have an opinion on Acid Stain vs Epoxy?
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Best stuff out there
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do)
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/clear+top+coat+floor+paint.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/clear+top+coat+floor+paint.do)
Another Griot's junkie :aok
I knew you were a smart guy. :D
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Hey Guys, thanks alot for all the posts.
Yesterday I was talking to a contractor and he mentioned I might consider doing an acid stain with an acrylic sealant over the top, as opposed to a traditional epoxy.
I actually do like the look of polished concrete, when it has a shine to it, etc.
I know that epoxy will probably be more durable, but I expect the garage will be light duty, just parking cars and a few hobby stuff.
Anyone have an opinion on Acid Stain vs Epoxy?
I have done both. The acrylic sealer for the stained approach is water based and when it gets wet it does soften and haze the sealer. I would not recommend it for a garage floor.
You can get a clear epoxy to go over the stained concrete, but it is just as much work as laying epoxy form the start.
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Another Griot's junkie :aok
I knew you were a smart guy. :D
Ripsnort got me into them. Yep, good stuff.
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Ripsnort got me into them. Yep, good stuff.
Never used that product. But Im always looking for newer or better products to use
What kind of square footage do you get per gallon on that?
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Best stuff out there
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do)
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/clear+top+coat+floor+paint.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/clear+top+coat+floor+paint.do)
Griots home office is 10 miles from my house. I just dumped my annual $200 in car supplies last week for the year. :P
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Never used that product. But Im always looking for newer or better products to use
What kind of square footage do you get per gallon on that?
In the bottom of the description: "One Gallon covers nearly 130 square feet in two thin coats". The thing that separates Griot's from the rest is they have the best "hot tire" resistance.
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If you don't have any oily or greasy areas and don't have hydrostatic pressure you should be good to go. Just follow the surface prep and application procedures. Don't let any fumes near an ignition source. Don't paint it on a windy day. Oh, some bugs seem to love the smell of wet epoxy. :)
This is for the 1st coat, it's best to apply the coating as the concrete is cooling (like in the evening). I wouldn't coat it if the sun is shining on it because it can for gas bubbles. IF you don't have a spiked roller to knock out the bubbles (they cost about $100) you are going to have little mess. After the first coat is down, you won't have to worry about the 2nd coat bubbling.
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If you don't have any oily or greasy areas and don't have hydrostatic pressure you should be good to go. Just follow the surface prep and application procedures. Don't let any fumes near an ignition source. Don't paint it on a windy day. Oh, some bugs seem to love the smell of wet epoxy. :)
This is for the 1st coat, it's best to apply the coating as the concrete is cooling (like in the evening). I wouldn't coat it if the sun is shining on it because it can for gas bubbles. IF you don't have a spiked roller to knock out the bubbles (they cost about $100) you are going to have little mess. After the first coat is down, you won't have to worry about the 2nd coat bubbling.
Excellent advice right there.
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In the bottom of the description: "One Gallon covers nearly 130 square feet in two thin coats". The thing that separates Griot's from the rest is they have the best "hot tire" resistance.
I'll have to check to see if its available here due to VOCs
If your an environmentalist the good news is NJ has some of the toughest VOC compliance laws in the nation.
If you want to use a high performance product the bad news is New Jersey has some of the toughest VOC compliance laws in the nation LOL
Its was a real bi....err pain in the butt to find a decent decking stain till I found Superduck (superdeck)
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I'll have to check to see if its available here due to VOCs
If your an environmentalist the good news is NJ has some of the toughest VOC compliance laws in the nation.
If you want to use a high performance product the bad news is New Jersey has some of the toughest VOC compliance laws in the nation LOL
Its was a real bi....err pain in the butt to find a decent decking stain till I found Superduck (superdeck)
hehe. I understand, Michigan is getting to NJ levels these days.