Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: 1Boner on July 17, 2010, 11:49:21 AM
-
My 1999 Deville (The Bop Mobile) recently started running rough.
I ran a couple of bottles of fairly expensive injector cleaner through the gas tank and the problem seemed to go away.
A few days ago when I fired it up, it started running rough again even more pronounced than before.
Code P0300 seems to be the culprit. (random misfires)
I pulled a plug and it had a white coating on it. (running lean)
I checked and replaced the somewhat clogged fuel filter.
Problem is still there.
Dead battery this morning also.
Any Ideas? The car has 78k on it.
(http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/6296/picture004vt9.jpg)
-
What do you mean by "rough?" You mean it sounds shakey, pops, or something? Or grinding sound?
-
It doesn't sound bad at all.
However its running rough.(missing)
I can however feel it when I'm driving.
Loses power going up hills, Its lost its usually powerful accelleration.
No popping or grinding.
Its missing pretty badly with the plugs showing a lean mixture.
-
If I get more details I may be able to help you more but the battery could be it. It could be the fuel injector which is probable. It could be a plug or two. It could be any number of things but I would get the battery squared away at any rate.
-
I know stupid question.
Did you try changing plugs wires?
I had the same thing kind of happen with my Toyota (I know not exactly the same) and I had a hard time figuring things out to until I grabbed a hold of one of the plug wires trying to see if one was loose. I got a very painful idea of where the problem was after that since the truck was running. :eek:
Just a thought.
-
Do a fuel pressure check.
-
Last car I had doing that I put in a new battery and it solved the problem.
-
Put plug wires on it... these Northstar engines are notorious for that. When you get the old ones off, you'll see black marks on them where they were shorting out.
<---Master ASE Technician
-
First, find out who stuck the red thing in front of the grill, and kick the hippie out of your way! :rofl
-
First, find out who stuck the red thing in front of the grill, and kick the hippie out of your way! :rofl
That picture was taken mere moments before I ran the vagrant down! He disappeared in a puff of hair ties and patchouli incense sticks!
The red nose and antlers was all that was left from last the guy i hit, he was driving some kinda sleigh!
And NO!! I don't need to clean the snow off the windsheild, I drive using instruments only!
-
Put plug wires on it... these Northstar engines are notorious for that. When you get the old ones off, you'll see black marks on them where they were shorting out.
<---Master ASE Technician
I'm gonna try that.
But wouldn't the plugs be all wet from incomplete combustion? (rich)
-
And NO!! I don't need to clean the snow off the windsheild, I drive using instruments only!
This is Santa Slayer to Home Depot, am I cleared to park? Over. :rofl
-
Sound's like you got a fuel injector bad . Take a long screwdriver and hold it on each injector and to your ear and see if it makes a clicking sound .
-
Bad injector or fuel pressure regulator is bad. Do all the plugs look lean or just 1 or 2?
-
It doesn't sound bad at all.
However its running rough.(missing)
I can however feel it when I'm driving.
Loses power going up hills, Its lost its usually powerful accelleration.
No popping or grinding.
Its missing pretty badly with the plugs showing a lean mixture.
My moms car did the same thing hers was an Impala, dad knows quite a lot about cars hers was losing power and kinda jumping back in forth if you will dad looked at it, it was the tranny so check that.
-
Normally with a p0300 the first step at the shop is to go into your missfire history per indvidual cylinder. This will show you an individual missfire count for cylinders 1-8. What you will normally find is that you have a main culprit cylinder. Eg. #2 has 16500 missfires while #3 and #4 have 250-500, but since you have missfires on 3 cylinders it will throw a p0300 (random missfire) rather then just a p0302 (missfire #2). Start checking here first. Now if your missfires are evenly distributed then you are looking at a mixture and/or timing issue. The battery issue may have something to do with this, but would be unlikely unless system voltage was actually getting under 12v's while running. If you have access to a good scan tool, the above should be your next step.
:salute
BigRat
-
Have the battery and the charging system checked completely first. Then have the fuel pressure and volume checked next. After that, then look at the ignition system. Most often, if it does not set a code for a specific cylinder, it usually isn't a plug wire. The late GM cars usually drop one specific cylinder when the ignition system has a problem. Or two, if the problem is a coil rather than a wire or plug.
-
My 1999 Deville (The Bop Mobile) recently started running rough.
I ran a couple of bottles of fairly expensive injector cleaner through the gas tank and the problem seemed to go away.
A few days ago when I fired it up, it started running rough again even more pronounced than before.
Code P0300 seems to be the culprit. (random misfires)
I pulled a plug and it had a white coating on it. (running lean)
I checked and replaced the somewhat clogged fuel filter.
Problem is still there.
Dead battery this morning also.
Any Ideas? The car has 78k on it.
(http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/6296/picture004vt9.jpg)
p0300 is a random misfire. that means that every cylinder is misfiring at one point or another.
99......you have the 4.9L or the 4.6L?
when you had the plug out, did you look at the gap, and the condition of the electrodes? if these are as little as .05 too largely gapped, they'll make a misfire.
if you have bosch platinum in it, get them out. they suck. the center electrode wears down below the porcelain, and creates a misfire.
if this is with coilpack, check the ignition wires. they'll cause the same sort of problem. look for a whitish mark on the wires....this is normally evidence of arcing.
i've very rarely seen injector problems with cadis, but if you suspect this, go to a repair shop that uses a fuel injection cleaner called "motorvac".
you'll find that a thousand times better than anything you can pour into your gas tank. it shouldn't cost more than $150...more than likely less. while it's there, if your filter was pretty clogged, then have them check the fuel pressure, as a clogged fuel filter will trash a fuel pump fairly quickly. and on fuel systems......when you start it tomorrow, look underneath at the gas tank, and see if it looks like it's caving in on itself. older cadis used to have problems with the gas caps not venting properly, and would cause running problems.
in all honesty, it sounds like you might wanna be in the ignition system first. especially if you haven't tuned her yet. there is no such thing as a 100k spark plug. not even in cadillacs. :D
on a seperate note.......i used to have that much hair..............
if you need anything else, post here, or feel free to pm me, and i'll do what i can to try and help ya out.
-
Sound's like you got a fuel injector bad . Take a long screwdriver and hold it on each injector and to your ear and see if it makes a clicking sound .
sometimes you can have a perfectly normal sounding injector, but it still won't flow fuel.
-
Have the battery and the charging system checked completely first. Then have the fuel pressure and volume checked next. After that, then look at the ignition system. Most often, if it does not set a code for a specific cylinder, it usually isn't a plug wire. The late GM cars usually drop one specific cylinder when the ignition system has a problem. Or two, if the problem is a coil rather than a wire or plug.
my experience on these engines has been plugs with a p0300. everyone falls for the 100k mile tune up line.
-
Just got back from AutoZone.
New battery, they checked the old one , wouldn't hold a charge. :mad:
Car is still running rough. :x
Off to my mechanic buddies house to see what we can see! lol :bolt:
Thanks for all the great answers guys!!! :salute
-
A white coating no longer necessarily indicates a lean condition. It can be caused by all sorts of deposits.
Did you check the gap and the condition of the center and ground electrodes?
The two plugs that tend to yield the best results in those cars are the original AC Delco plugs, and the RapidFire AC Delco plugs.
Cap is right, the plugs are past due unless they've already been changed. They never work as well as they should past about 60K at best. Besides, they tend to weld themselves into the heads. An expensive set of plugs is still far cheaper than pulling a head off to remove a broken plug and/or repair the threads.
The best luck we've had is with Taylor, Moroso, or MSD wires, after that, the original AC Delco wires. The AC Delco wires will go about 60K, the aftermarket wires mentioned above go about 80K or so. The parts house brands go about 40K at best.
-
Worn muffler bearings?
-
I'm gonna try that.
But wouldn't the plugs be all wet from incomplete combustion? (rich)
Theoretically, yes.. but most of these newer cars run as lean as they can without spark knocking (for fuel economy purposes) so the plugs tend to be white regardless. The plug wires are allowing spark most of the time, but when put under a load they are intermittently arcing out.
Do this: Pull the car into a garage (or outside at night). Remove any plastic covers over the top of the engine. Start the engine. Spray down the plug wires with a spray bottle of water. Watch the light show begin!
Likewise you can do the same with some carburetor cleaner, but you'll be spraying down the engine with a fire extinguisher shortly after!!! haha
-
Worn muffler bearings?
I bought 3 new "UsuckerU" muffler bearings at a fairly reasonable price (only $249.95 ea.)
The problem with these bearings is, they need to be packed with Blue Whale blubber.
Now as we all know, Blue Whales are on the endangered species list!!
Which makes it very expensive.
So, I sold the wifes car so I could buy an ounce of it.
Well, long story short, it didn't solve the problem.
However, I'm now having a rough time driving around town without a crowd of fat chicks chasing me down the street!!
Apparently its some sort of aphrodisiac!! :O
-
:rofl :rofl :rofl :noid
-
:rofl :rofl :rofl welcome to my world man :lol
-
My 1999 Deville (The Bop Mobile) recently started running rough.
I ran a couple of bottles of fairly expensive injector cleaner through the gas tank and the problem seemed to go away.
A few days ago when I fired it up, it started running rough again even more pronounced than before.
Code P0300 seems to be the culprit. (random misfires)
I pulled a plug and it had a white coating on it. (running lean)
I checked and replaced the somewhat clogged fuel filter.
Problem is still there.
Dead battery this morning also.
Any Ideas? The car has 78k on it.
(http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/6296/picture004vt9.jpg)
I don't know beans about working on cars. Just wanted to say that I have that exact same car in the exact same color. 99 Deville D'Elegance. I love it, even if it's got an ac leak so I have to run windows down in the summer.
-
I don't know beans about working on cars. Just wanted to say that I have that exact same car in the exact same color. 99 Deville D'Elegance. I love it, even if it's got an ac leak so I have to run windows down in the summer.
just taking a shot in the dark......evap cores, and compressors are common on them.
-
just taking a shot in the dark......evap cores, and compressors are common on them.
Yeah could be the core. Compressor was replaced just before I bought it, so that's not too likely I don't think. It hasn't been used to speak of. I looked into the evaporator and it's about 1200 bucks to replace, so if that's it, I'll be keeping the windows down until the gar gives up the ghost. You know, another 10 years or so. I do love the car.
-
I replaced the battery yesterday.
I have a digital read out on the dash.
I can bring up the battery voltage.
Pretty sure its supposed to be around 14.
Its varying.
Could the problem be the alternator?
-
well Bonor it's sad to say but your car is down right pissed at ya, see... he knows your a Bop and hates you for it.............. :D
hope ya get it figured out. :salute
-
Have you checked the fuel injectors yet? If it is losing acceleration it could be that the fuel isn't getting to where it needs to go in a sufficient quantity. Just a guess, I'm not a grease monkey :D
-
alternator will not make it miss . If you think it's the alternator , take the battery cable off of the hot post and see if it keep's running . If it go's dead it's the alternator if it don't it's good .
-
p0300 is a random misfire. that means that every cylinder is misfiring at one point or another.
Not nescessarily CAP, P0300 will come up with any more then two cylinders on a GM missfiring. Try to think back to any GM car that gave you more then two p030? codes at one time. After they get past two it's a p0300. Try it at your shop next time you get some free time for an experiment. I believe they did it this way to make the p0300 code setting parameters the same across the lines eg. 4cyl same parameter as a V8.
:salute
BigRat
-
alternator will not make it miss . If you think it's the alternator , take the battery cable off of the hot post and see if it keep's running . If it go's dead it's the alternator if it don't it's good .
That's a very bad thing to do to a modern car full of electronics. Especially when various parts stores will test it properly for free.
-
There are a lot of people more knowledgeable than me but when my exploder was running rough while at idle. Found out it was sucking air at the top of the EGR system. Sprayed a little starter fluid or carb cleaner (don't remember what I used) to find the leak.
-
Check your battery ground cable at both ends.
-
I replaced the battery yesterday.
I have a digital read out on the dash.
I can bring up the battery voltage.
Pretty sure its supposed to be around 14.
Its varying.
Could the problem be the alternator?
no.your charge qwill vaery from a low of 12.50 to about 13.75. 12.5 would b e the lowest you want to see. At idle with everything on hi, that will be your approx. Reading.
For the roughness, you waant to eliminate the common basics first,,,namely in thew ignitignition system.
-
alternator will not make it miss . If you think it's the alternator , take the battery cable off of the hot post and see if it keep's running . If it go's dead it's the alternator if it don't it's good .
Nonono NO!!!!!!!!!!
That is the quickest way to spike the ecm
-
Not nescessarily CAP, P0300 will come up with any more then two cylinders on a GM missfiring. Try to think back to any GM car that gave you more then two p030? codes at one time. After they get past two it's a p0300. Try it at your shop next time you get some free time for an experiment. I believe they did it this way to make the p0300 code setting parameters the same across the lines eg. 4cyl same parameter as a V8.
:salute
BigRat
96 buick roadmaster estate wagon. 2 months ago.p0300, p0302, p0306.
Tune handled it.
I know what your talking ab out on the misfire monitor though....when I,m in dou t, I go there.
-
alternator will not make it miss . If you think it's the alternator , take the battery cable off of the hot post and see if it keep's running . If it go's dead it's the alternator if it don't it's good .
If the car is from 1962, yes that is the case.
On any car made since... about 1980... this is NOT A GOOD IDEA, especially on this Cadillac which probably has at least a dozen computer modules, any of which can be destroyed by a voltage spike that results from this kind of dangerous practice. It "IS" possible for a charging issue to cause driveability issues... I've seen it a few times due to a bad diode or voltage regulator.. one way you can test this is to just unplug the electrical connector for the alternator and drive it (make sure the battery is fully charged prior)... but I don't feel this is likely.
You mentioned the voltage is jumping around? Exactly what voltage values are you seeing? Anything between say... 13.0 to 14.8v is pretty much acceptable... this is going to vary somewhat based on engine RPM, electrical loads, mechanical loads, etc...
As for an injector issue... not likely for an engine with multiple misfires. There is an injector for each cylinder, and chances of more than one going bad at once is next to nil. Also, any problem in the injector circuit itself (including an injector that is electrically stuck shorted or open) will set a separate fault code.
Some do have a good point though. If you can obtain a scanner that will display live readings, including individual cylinders' misfire counts... then you can drive around and have someone watch which cylinders are misfiring the most... this could at least narrow it down. If it's always the same 2 or 3 cylinders it's likely only a tune issue, whereas if all eight cylinders are triggering misfires, it could be a timing, fuel supply, or electrical issue. I've also seen a plugged catalytic converter set misfire counts, but this would be all four cylinders of the same bank (i.e. #1,3,5,7 or #2,4,6,8)
-
Great ideas!
You guys are the best, thanks again for all the answers.
Bobby G.
-
Just a guess, but it sounds like a dying coil pack. I had the same issue on a 3.1 L motor years ago. Changed the coil pack, plugs and wires out and was good to go.
-
carbon buildup around the crank connector? :headscratch:
Or maybe the valve bearings...........
-
Yeah could be the core. Compressor was replaced just before I bought it, so that's not too likely I don't think. It hasn't been used to speak of. I looked into the evaporator and it's about 1200 bucks to replace, so if that's it, I'll be keeping the windows down until the gar gives up the ghost. You know, another 10 years or so. I do love the car.
You sure it's a new compressor and not a rebuilt? PITA, but check it's numbers, see if it has a manufactured date. Here in LA a working AC is almost a must and lots of places here offer to rebuild the compressor for cheaper than a new one. Problem is that they only last maybe another hot season or two before dyeing again IMO.
-
You sure it's a new compressor and not a rebuilt? PITA, but check it's numbers, see if it has a manufactured date. Here in LA a working AC is almost a must and lots of places here offer to rebuild the compressor for cheaper than a new one. Problem is that they only last maybe another hot season or two before dyeing again IMO.
i've had good luck buying rebuilt compressors from napa. theirs seem to last awhile, and i've not had a customer complain about one yet.
also try this. i think,......not sure though....but i think uyou can go to pep boys, and buy a dye kit. inject the dye into the a/c system, and then charge it up, and enjoy it till it leaks out. then get a black light, and go looking for the dye. it it shows up neon green under the black light.
-
You can buy R134A, with leak detector, and a can tap to put it in with, at WalMart. You can even buy a cheap black light in the fishing section of the sporting goods department.
-
Well, if it's that easy I may have to go on ahead and do that then instead of waiting to take it to my shop that I like. Cheaper is always better unless it costs me hours of my life and cut up hands. I can't work with cut up hands, which means I can't pay my bills so well, and I'm no fan of that situation. I'll hit the Mega Lo Mart this week and see what I can see. It would be truly wonderful to have ac. That thing blows fiercely, it just blows warm is all.
-
You can buy R134A, with leak detector, and a can tap to put it in with, at WalMart. You can even buy a cheap black light in the fishing section of the sporting goods department.
good call.....i forgot about that.
one thing i also forgot to mention......with the uv dye.......you need yellow glasses. if it's a big leak, you won't, but for minor leaks that don't show much trace, you will.
-
Well, we said it might be that easy to find the leak, we never said anything about how easy it would be to fix it.
-
Well, we said it might be that easy to find the leak, we never said anything about how easy it would be to fix it.
QFT! Haven't had an AC problem in my life I couldn't diagnose myself... economicaly afford the repair though is just a whole seperate subject on the other hand. It never is "just a hose somewhere".
And Cap, I had no idea Napa sold rebuilt compressors, good to know. Typicaly here in LA you get your compressor rebuilt the cheapest, and that usually means by Bob's or Tito's Auto A/C, Tinting and Bail Bonds.
-
I had this problem on an 89 Chevy Impala a while back. It turned out to be worn fuel injector seals. Gas was pouring in into the upper manifold intake throttle (similar to a carburetor setup) and around the seals. The car would sometimes idle very ruff, but run smooth when moving above 5-10mph. I saw the excess amount of fuel dripping into the throttle body and thought an injector was bad. I went up to the auto parts store to get another. They didn't have any injectors in stock, but I bought a throttle body rebuild kit instead. I was bored that evening and rebuilt the throttle body anyway, figuring the injectors could be replaced later as they were on top. As it turned out the rebuild kit was all I needed.
Also, probably wouldn't hurt to replace all the plugs. When removing these, place them in the same order they were in the car. You can then compare each one and find the cylinder with the problems.
I would also check the egr valve and intake manifold air idle control. I don't remember the exact name of the air idle control thingy, but this car may have it. It is a plunger that opens and closes to adjust for more or less air into the upper intake. It takes the place of a self adjust mechanical choke.
When does it seem to run rough, hot or cold?
-
QFT! Haven't had an AC problem in my life I couldn't diagnose myself... economicaly afford the repair though is just a whole seperate subject on the other hand. It never is "just a hose somewhere".
And Cap, I had no idea Napa sold rebuilt compressors, good to know. Typicaly here in LA you get your compressor rebuilt the cheapest, and that usually means by Bob's or Tito's Auto A/C, Tinting and Bail Bonds.
napa has a lot of good stuff. sometimes, they're a bit pricier than other avenues, but in my experience, and opinion, it is well worth it. :aok
-
I had this problem on an 89 Chevy Impala a while back. It turned out to be worn fuel injector seals. Gas was pouring in into the upper manifold intake throttle (similar to a carburetor setup) and around the seals. The car would sometimes idle very ruff, but run smooth when moving above 5-10mph. I saw the excess amount of fuel dripping into the throttle body and thought an injector was bad. I went up to the auto parts store to get another. They didn't have any injectors in stock, but I bought a throttle body rebuild kit instead. I was bored that evening and rebuilt the throttle body anyway, figuring the injectors could be replaced later as they were on top. As it turned out the rebuild kit was all I needed.
Also, probably wouldn't hurt to replace all the plugs. When removing these, place them in the same order they were in the car. You can then compare each one and find the cylinder with the problems.
I would also check the egr valve and intake manifold air idle control. I don't remember the exact name of the air idle control thingy, but this car may have it. It is a plunger that opens and closes to adjust for more or less air into the upper intake. It takes the place of a self adjust mechanical choke.
When does it seem to run rough, hot or cold?
89? you probably had a tbi 305 or 350. those tbi's were pretty good actually. the aftermarket holley fuel injection kit resembles them.
if you wanna see something pretty neat, take your timing light, and hook it up. remove the air filter housing, and with the engine idling, point your timing light into the venturi. you should see a very nice atomized spray pattern.
this is easier with an advance light, as you may need to adjust it a little to see the pattern well.
-
I'm a little late on this one, maybe you got it fixed? My gf 01 bravada had similar problems. Started running rough, voltage drops and dead battery. Ended up being fuel pump. Get the fuel system pressure checked.
Tokenjo
-
Sounds like a loose rocker panel to me.
-
Sounds like a loose rocker panel to me.
or it could be this.
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/1LTCAP/DSC01581.jpg)
-
:rofl :rofl :rofl CAP!
-
:rofl :rofl :rofl CAP!
would you believe i worked with a mechanic in his 40's that wouldn't hesitate to do that? when i told him it was wrong, all he ever said, was
"well, the machine told me to put the weights there."
i told him to go jump off the rt 42 bridge. he didn't listen. :noid :rofl
-
would you believe i worked with a mechanic in his 40's that wouldn't hesitate to do that? when i told him it was wrong, all he ever said, was
"well, the machine told me to put the weights there."
i told him to go jump off the rt 42 bridge. he didn't listen. :noid :rofl
That's just too f'in funny. That picture is a classic.
-
That's just too f'in funny. That picture is a classic.
lol.
just so you all know.....that was on one of my customers cars. i had to snap a picture, as i've been seeing stupid stuff like that too much lately.
it's like tire installers have been overdosing on brawndo or something. :noid
-
:uhoh
-
It was a coil pack bearing!!
The coil pack itself wasn't expensive, but jeeezum they sure whack ya for the coil pack bearings!!
The Bop Mobile is now back to its brawny and smooooooth running self!
Thanks again for all the input guys!! :salute
-
Glad I could help.
:uhoh
:bolt:
-
It was a coil pack bearing!!
The coil pack itself wasn't expensive, but jeeezum they sure whack ya for the coil pack bearings!!
The Bop Mobile is now back to its brawny and smooooooth running self!
Thanks again for all the input guys!! :salute
just make sure you keep that bearing greased properly this time. :noid
-
It was a coil pack bearing!!
The coil pack itself wasn't expensive, but jeeezum they sure whack ya for the coil pack bearings!!
The Bop Mobile is now back to its brawny and smooooooth running self!
Thanks again for all the input guys!! :salute
:banana:
just make sure you keep that bearing greased properly this time. :noid
You set the date for the AH Whale Hunting Party, I'll go grab my harpoon.
-
Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, Mass Air Flow Sensor try changing those in that order...
-
It was a coil pack bearing!!
The coil pack itself wasn't expensive, but jeeezum they sure whack ya for the coil pack bearings!!
The Bop Mobile is now back to its brawny and smooooooth running self!
Thanks again for all the input guys!! :salute
Umm... a WHAT?! Bearings are used in moving parts, and last I recall there are no moving parts in coil packs.. hrmmm something seems amiss :noid
-
Good thing you didn't have to buy a new coil pack breather tube. ;)
-
Don't even mention purple power bands. :uhoh
-
You could easily double your low-end torque by PURCHASING A SET OF THESE (http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=30).
-
You could easily double your low-end torque by PURCHASING A SET OF THESE (http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=30).
would you believe one of my customers sons has a magnet on his fuel line of his contour? i may have a picture of that somewhere.
-
I have seen those , lol . What some people will buy . Let's see ,,,,where is my pet rock ?
-
would you believe one of my customers sons has a magnet on his fuel line of his contour? i may have a picture of that somewhere.
It's O.K. I worked with a guy once (another professional mechanic) who spent over $1000 on one of those HHO kits... You know... uses electrical power to extract the hydrogen out of water and then the hydrogen burns with the fuel which is supposed to more than triple your fuel economy. While simple physics says this isn't possible, he did see about a 15% increase in fuel economy, but not because of the Hydrogen. Part of the 'kit' included a module that wires up between the O2 sensor, the Air temp sensor, and the Coolant temp sensor and the computer to make the computer think the temperature is hotter, and that it was running rich which made the computer lean out the fuel mixture. Of course you're going to see an improvement!
And after two months of him tinkering with it (never could get it to run quite right with the kit installed) it started misfiring really bad.. to the point that it barely ran.. and when we pulled the head the valves had gotten so hot they just broke apart into pieces rolling the between your fingers... There is a reason engines aren't tuned to run that rich, and that is exactly why.
Needless to say, this finally convinced him to give up on his endeavor for free energy... and when he replaced the engine the kit didn't go back on...
-
:rofl
-
This thread still here , I WOULD JUST JUNK IT ! and buy a TRUCK and put a rebel flag on the window , lol . J/K .. What I did , hahahaha
-
My first step would have been to check the blinker fluid.
:noid
-
Let this thread die... :lol
-
I think this thread must have cursed me, the battery in my silver 99 Cadillac Deville went out today. Poop.