Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: maddog on March 13, 2001, 11:27:00 AM
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Purchased a "CoolerMaster" case. Running PIII 933 and temp are CPU 46 and MP 77.. all aluminum case.... nicest feature is the whole backplane and MB slide out to attach everything... this alone will get me to buy another one.... not cheap but to avoid the hassles I like it....
doc
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If that's 46C, I'd say that's too hot for a P3. My Athlon 700@927 *only* runs at 48c. It puts out probably twice the heat as your P3 too.
You did use just a tiny amount of thermal grease didn't you?
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bloom25
THUNDERBIRDS
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Nah, I've run my Intel chips up over 50 c with no troubles. I normally set my alam at 55c. As long as it's under 50 I think I'm not OCing it hard enough. Heh.
The trick is to make sure you have a good balanced airflow through the case, and a good CPU heatsink and fan that is properly attached with good thermal grease like Arctic Silver.
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Sean "Lephturn" Conrad - Aces High Chief Trainer
A proud member of the mighty Flying Pigs
http://www.flyingpigs.com
Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome (http://users.andara.com/~sconrad/) for AH articles and training info!
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My 1.2GHz Athlon runs at 41 deg C at full stretch, and the case temp has never risen above 27 deg C (I have the Prophet II Pro card to add a little extra heat (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/wink.gif)).
I have the Antec SX-830 Performance case. It is most righteous. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
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Wouldn't give a monkey's a*** for the case temperature, it's a CPU I'm worried about. The temperature goes up and down at literally seconds intervals depending on the load. I use MBM 5.05 to monitor it.
I have 1GHz TB and FOP32i cooler. No Arctic Silver though - there was a browny looking thing at the bottom of the cooler, I didn't know where to get the proper stuff so I kept it for now.
Another thing - in the corners on the CPU there were 4 roundy looking rather soft spacers. I don't know whether I should have taken them off or what? I can see why they're there (taking into account how the cooler is attached) but how do I ensure that the grill is actually touching the chip? *sigh*...
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Thats F... C= 9 for cpu..26 for MB
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..and im always wondering how do they get their CPU temperature so low.
Cel500 did run at 48 C, well, nothing wrong with operating and current 566 runs at 40-43 C and OCd to 850mhz it runs at 44-46 C.
(maybe I have stick that CPU temp wire closer than the others have)
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lynx,
No, that brown pad melts under heat and works like paste does. Most of them are crappy, but some actually work pretty good.
And yes, you were supposed to leave those pads there. They are designed to make sure the HS sits level on the chip.
Trust me, if the HS wasn't contacting the Tbird properly, you would have had a 1 Gig keychain about 3 seconds after you powered it up. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/biggrin.gif) I'd say the temp is pretty good for a TBird.
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Sean "Lephturn" Conrad - Aces High Chief Trainer
A proud member of the mighty Flying Pigs
http://www.flyingpigs.com
Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome (http://users.andara.com/~sconrad/) for AH articles and training info!
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If you can get a Tbird to run no hotter than 55C that is OK. I've never seen a Tbird with a regular heat sink and fan run cooler than 32C. (Tom's hardware has a new article on HS&Fans.)
Maddog, are you using a pelter or something, that just doesn't seem possible for a regular heatsink? Since a regular heatsink basically transfers heat, the "coldest" temperature possible for the processor is the temperature inside the case.
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bloom25
THUNDERBIRDS
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Lynx,
Like Lephturn says, that thermal tape stuff isn't very good. I have the FOP-32 and the place I bought it from told me to remove it and get some proper thermal transfer compound - I bought Arctic Silver.
It seems to be doing its job really well.
But if your system is running ok with the tape, perhaps there is no reason to change it.
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*sniff-sniff* I don't think it's working any good - I can see the temperature going from 38C to 55C and back in a matter of a minute (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/frown.gif). Where did you buy that Arctic thing from?
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Originally posted by -lynx-:
*sniff-sniff* I don't think it's working any good - I can see the temperature going from 38C to 55C and back in a matter of a minute (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/frown.gif). Where did you buy that Arctic thing from?
Geez.. my CPU's temperature hardly bounces 2 C's
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http://www.azzo.com/test2/cooling-paste.html (http://www.azzo.com/test2/cooling-paste.html)
Check out http://www.hardocp.com/reviews/cooling/themosonic/v604210/index2.html (http://www.hardocp.com/reviews/cooling/themosonic/v604210/index2.html)
I think possibly the "brown pad" you are talking about is a TIM. This stuff melts and forms a good bond, and some of them are actually half decent.
Still, you can't lose by cleaning it off and going with Actic Silver. Just be very careful removing and re-installing your HSF unit on the T-Bird. They bust REALLY easy.
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Sean "Lephturn" Conrad - Aces High Chief Trainer
A proud member of the mighty Flying Pigs
http://www.flyingpigs.com
Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome (http://users.andara.com/~sconrad/) for AH articles and training info!
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http://www.kdcomputers.com/cooling1.htm (http://www.kdcomputers.com/cooling1.htm) look all the way at the bottom of the page.
I have seen a couple articles lately warning on the use of Artic Silver.
The summation of the problem caused by it's conductive properties.
The cache components on the top of the processor can not be shorted or you will have problems. I didn't see any reports saying that it permanently damaged the chips, but very small amounts, small enough to need a high power magnifying glass to see, were trapped in between the components and causing them to fail.
The idea is to use as little as necessary so that it can not be squeezed into the circuit areas.
Remember, in a tower case, the processor hangs such that if the paste has a chance to move, gravity will pull it down and accross the circuits.
Check http://www.amdzone.com/index.cfm (http://www.amdzone.com/index.cfm) you may find more.
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Sky Viper
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lynx - I bought my Arctic Silver for 10 quid from www.overclockers.co.uk (http://www.overclockers.co.uk)
Check it out, they are now selling Arctic Silver II for a fiver (+delivery).
To remove that cooler tape slime from the bottom of your cooler, use some highly refined white spirit or alcohol and make sure its all clean and shiny, and free of dust, hairs etc.
You probably already know this, but don't touch any contact surfaces (CPU die or the part of the HSF which is going to be touching the CPU) with your hands - skin cells and grease don't conduct heat particularly well. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
Hope this helps.
BTW, be extremely careful with application of the Arctic Silver - like Sky Viper says it is can cause shorts. Just apply a thin layer to the die and for god's sake don't let any spill over off of the die. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/wink.gif) You don't need alot, just a thin even layer.
I left my case rest on its side for a couple of days after the silver was applied, just to make sure it had all seated itself properly.
[This message has been edited by Dowding (edited 03-14-2001).]
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Bloom, no just using the fan that came with the P3 retail version......
doc
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BTW guys, Arctic Silver is not like most silver based greases. It is much less electrically conductive than a regular silver compound.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as2.htm (http://www.arcticsilver.com/as2.htm)
Negligible electrical conductivity.
Arctic Silver II was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity. It is only electrically conductive in a thin layer under extreme compression.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver II should be keep away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. The compound is slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridged two close-proximity electrical paths.)
As long as you follow the instructions and only use an appropriate amount, you won't have any problems. I've used this stuff for a year, and done about 6 chips with it with no problems and great performance. Basically what I do is put the compound on the chip itself (not the heatsink), and you don't need very much. Remember when the HSF gets clipped on it will spread out very thin.
The Arctic Silver folks have good illustrated instructions available right here:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm (http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm)
And remember kids! "Don't squirt it in your eye, nose, ear, or any other accessible body orifice."
LOL
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Sean "Lephturn" Conrad - Aces High Chief Trainer
A proud member of the mighty Flying Pigs http://www.flyingpigs.com (http://www.flyingpigs.com)
Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome (http://users.andara.com/~sconrad/) for AH articles and training info!
[This message has been edited by Lephturn (edited 03-15-2001).]
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Originally posted by Lephturn:
...or any other accessible body orifice."
Where is an inaccessible body orifice?
:O
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Sky Viper
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LOL, I guess that depends on how big your bellybutton is, and how long your arms are. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
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Sean "Lephturn" Conrad - Aces High Chief Trainer
A proud member of the mighty Flying Pigs
http://www.flyingpigs.com
Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome (http://users.andara.com/~sconrad/) for AH articles and training info!