Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: TheWobble on March 16, 2001, 07:14:00 AM
-
How did Yall overclock your athlons??
did you have to solder anything on it?
did you use any programs??
I have T-bird 800
on FIC SD11 board.
what do i need to do?
what is the SAFEST OC speed I should try for?
-
http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.html?i=1282&p=1 (http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.html?i=1282&p=1)
http://overclockers.com/ (http://overclockers.com/)
Follow destructions exactly, don't attempt to shortcut.
You wont know how fast you can get till you step it up. different parts will OC to different speeds.
Have fun (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/smile.gif)
------------------
OhNooo
smile awhile
[This message has been edited by MrBill (edited 03-16-2001).]
-
Personal View on OC: Why bother? There is to much to lose and not enough to gain. Especially these days.
If I want a faster chip, I should buy one. But then, I'm still running my K6-2 400 at its stock settings. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
That said, here is a good write up: tomshardware.com (http://www4.tomshardware.com/cpu/00q2/000623/index.html)
I like tomshardware...decent reviews, good advice, and no evidence of being influenced by manufacturers.
You may also have a look over at http://www.amdzone.com (http://www.amdzone.com)
------------------
Sky Viper
-
I have found the older slot Athlons too much of a PITA to mess with.
However, if you have a new Thunderbird and one of the new KT133a chipset mainboards, you can OC them with almost no effort by boosting the FSB speed. If you want to go further, you can also do the bridging trick and change the multiplier, but I don't bother with that one.
I always buy good quality heatsink/fan units for good cooling. If I can get more performance from my machine by changing a BIOS setting, I'll do it. If it doesn't work, it's no big deal. Generally I'm willing to invest an hour or so mucking with the BIOS settings to find the stable sweet spot for a machine. It's free speed. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/smile.gif)
------------------
Sean "Lephturn" Conrad - Aces High Chief Trainer
A proud member of the mighty Flying Pigs
http://www.flyingpigs.com
Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome (http://users.andara.com/~sconrad/) for AH articles and training info!
-
Thanks folks, keep em coming.
-
The best way to approach overclocking is to take the option into notice when buying components for the system.
There are huge differences between motherboards in terms of overclocking..
It's possible that the mobo you have is some el cheapo stock board that does not support any kind of bios tweaking.. Dip switches and soldering things do not sound user friendly do they?
Tomshardware is a good place to read, variety of tips can be found from www.hardocp.com (http://www.hardocp.com) (humoristic approach) so I suggest you read up on it.
Asus and Abit boards are the best choices for tweaking, although you CAN find very tweakable boards from Epox, AOpen, Iwill etc.
Read a lot of reviews and you'll soon find out which are the options for you.
-
Wobble, is it a slot or socket Athlon? That makes a BIG difference.
------------------
bloom25
THUNDERBIRDS
-
Personal View on OC: Why bother? There is to much to lose and not enough to gain. Especially these days.
If I want a faster chip, I should buy one. But then, I'm still running my K6-2 400 at its stock settings. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
Why Bother? Well, when I bought this Duron 700Mhz for less than $90, did the multiplier trick, and overclocked it to 1GHz STABLE, I sure didnt bother to put it back to its default settings. Its been running like that since the 700mhz duron was released, I never get lock ups, and I get almost the same performance as a 1Ghz Thunderbird, for less than $90.
[This message has been edited by Animal (edited 03-16-2001).]
-
I OC'd my Athlon from 750 to 866 by increasing FSB on an older kx133 board, and it still never runs hotter than 96F with no extra cooling. On the other hand, I'm likely to buy a new CPU way before I get around to cracking the CPU case open and manually setting the true overclock, even though I've no doubt it could handle a good bit more.
-
Its a Slot A
EDIT: None of the web pages im being sent to realy tell ya much, the first thing they say is to do the solderting trick...Im not too keen on trying that, also they never mention my type of MOBO, my FIC SD11 can handle over 1Ghz processor, but in the CMOS i cannot find any settings to adjust anything (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/frown.gif)
[This message has been edited by TheWobble (edited 03-16-2001).]
-
If it's slot A, then without cracking open the case all you can do is up the FSB. It will be set at 100 Mhz by default. You could probably raise it 3 Mhz 100% safely. If it's an 800, it would then be an 824. You will need good RAM to do higher, but 850 wouldn't be a big deal.
Your MB may not allow you to change the FSB though. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/frown.gif)
------------------
bloom25
THUNDERBIRDS
-
Look for something like Voltage/frequency in the bios setup. I went to their sight (http://www.fica.com/) to see if they had a manual to peek at, but the one they have on FTP is a bad file.
-
That's exactly what I meant by having el-cheapo non-overclockable board.
Trash it and get a good one..
AMD oc does not require soldering anything, you can short the needed bridges by a simple pencil.
If you look closer, you will find a HUGE amount of articles on AMD overclocking.
-
AMD oc does not require soldering anything, you can short the needed bridges by a simple pencil.
only the socket Athlon (Duron)
the T-bird is slot A and cannot be plowed with that way..at least not easy enough to be worth the risk of screwing it up.
-
http://www.athlonoc.com/unlocking.htm (http://www.athlonoc.com/unlocking.htm)
-
For Slot-A you can use the GoldFinger device which lets you change the multiplier. No soldering required.
-
Wobble, you are wrong.
The Athlon Thunderbirds are SOCKET A CPU's, not SLOTs.
So, you can do the L1 bridge multiplier trick on a Thunderbird or Duron.
It's only the original Athlons that you can get in a SLOT A configuration. Not that you'd want to. (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/smile.gif)
I think there was some confusion there. Lets go through the chips.
1. Athlon. The original, and a Slot form factor chip.
2. Thunderbird. The new design Athlon with a Socket form factor.
3. The Duron. A "value" version of the Thunderbird, competitor to the Celeron. Also a Socket form factor.
Only the original slot A Athlons require the gold finger devices to change multipliers. Both the new Athlons and Durons can be unlocked with the L1 bridge pencil trick.
------------------
Sean "Lephturn" Conrad - Aces High Chief Trainer
A proud member of the mighty Flying Pigs
http://www.flyingpigs.com
Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome (http://users.andara.com/~sconrad/) for AH articles and training info!
-
Lephturn, some Durons have multiplier "unlocked" on the factory. I bought a Duron-600 with unlocked multiplier, AFAIR manufactured on week 25, 2000, runs 100% stable at 900MHz, Soltek SL-75KV+ mainboard.
------------------
With respect,
Pavel Pavlov,
Commissar 25th IAP WB VVS
-
I've got a Duron 600@800 running at the moment in my Abit KT7. I've heard that the pencil trick can eventually fail as the graphite corrodes, or falls off etc. I used heated rear windscreen repair paint to do my l1 bridges, which I bought from a car bits & pieces shop (Halfords for any Brits). I used a sooper giant magnifier and an insulin syringe which I borrowed from my cat to perform the operation. I stayed off alcohol for a week before to steady my hand (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/smile.gif)
Ddriag.
PS. I also noticed that when I de-clocked my pooter back to 600Mhz recently, it made sod all difference to FR in AH which averages between 38-65.
-
Yeh, the graphite corrodes much like the pencil written papers get destroyed in a few months.. NOT! Thats just another urban legend. Of course if you want to spend $15 for a conductive paint, go ahead.
And if your system didn't work faster when going from 600 to 800 it's simply because your graphics card or something else in the system was acting as the bottleneck. Your other peripherals were maxed out already with a 600Mhz system in a game use.
-
Thanks for your helpful and considerate reply.
-
You want to be EXTREMELY careful soldering anything to a CPU, first off make sure if you absolutely must tinker that your soldering iron/gun has a grounded tip, older irons/guns may have a voltage on the tip and good by CPU, secondly make sure you have a static wrist strap on. Keep your cpu away from anything that is able to produce static...rugs, tape, anyone around you etc.
-
Hiya's
Bit late to reply as such but what the heck (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/smile.gif)
I made my copper block h2o system for a T-Bird 750 and got it rock solid at 1050 (waterblock just replaces hsf) this is on an asus a7v rev 1.02 with volt mod (added resistor) then i saw a piece on "On the Core Cooling" so i made a cooler that sits over the core like a tube with in/out pipes and bottom that touches the base of the cpu which is sealed with rubber gasket i made out of some innertube
Now i have TB 750@1.1gig and thats without any FSB (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/Smileys/default/smile.gif) (memory is cwap hence no fsb)
Getting into cryo stuff next all being well
ps the resistor stuff on top around tb core are sealed in case some wondered
If your into clocking and ever need any help email me at anthony.sutton@btconnect.com and i would try to help
Have Fun
Defiance
-
http://www.plycon.com/trace.htm (http://www.plycon.com/trace.htm)