Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: oakranger on August 26, 2010, 08:04:48 PM
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CAP1 here are image of my break lines. They look good but one area i am concerned about. i what is your professional opinion?
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2343-1.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2348.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2343.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2342-1.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2341.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2338.jpg)
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Depending on the length and cost, you might want to replace that, you'll always be thinking of that in the back of your mind
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If your not careful you will end up replacing the lines on the rear end, the flex hose, and the wheel cylinders too.
When you replace rusted components it can snowball fast....
Strip
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I going to ask this only becaiuse i do not know, it there anything as far as a coding that i can put on it?
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Once a line gets that flaky rust on it you should replace it. It's really hard to tell if you have that on the bottom of the first pic. I let mine go a bit too long and when I had to push on the brakes hard the line popped. That's the first time I ever had the breaks go out on me and I can tell you it's a heckuva heart pumping experience to drive through he ditch at 50mph when you're heading towards an approach.
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CAP1 here are image of my break lines. They look good but one area i am concerned about. i what is your professional opinion?
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2343-1.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2348.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2343.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2342-1.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2341.jpg)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/skbluestem/DSCF2338.jpg)
that bottom line, right near the plastic retainer isn't as bad as i've seen them, but i would strongly consider replacing it.
i would have it replaced at least from the flare nut by the flex hose forward, to just past that other rusted spot by the other plastic retainer.
what year and model is this? that almost looks like a ford fuel line connector.....
strip mentioned too....check your flex hoses while your at it. any of these can cause catastrophic brake failure should they go....and there is generally no warning.
it's better safe, instead of sorry.
the rest of the underneath looks very clean..........
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I going to ask this only becaiuse i do not know, it there anything as far as a coding that i can put on it?
what do you mean by "code"?
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It is a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. What i was wondering if there is solution that i can cover over the rusted area?
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I believe he meant some kind of "coating".
I don't think you can write a source code to fix that. ;)
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.stoprust
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It is a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. What i was wondering if there is solution that i can cover over the rusted area?
no sir.....there is no safe way to coat, or eliminate that rust, short of replacing the line.
remember, that there is approximatly 3,000psi to 4,000psi in those lines when you're on the brake pedal.
aahh....jeeps and most chrysler products use the same types of fuel line connectors as fords do.
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no sir.....there is no safe way to coat, or eliminate that rust, short of replacing the line.
remember, that there is approximatly 3,000psi to 4,000psi in those lines when you're on the brake pedal.
aahh....jeeps and most chrysler products use the same types of fuel line connectors as fords do.
OK, so how easy is it to replace that line by my self?
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OK, so how easy is it to replace that line by my self?
you may be able to buy a pre-bent one from the dealer, then it should be relatevly easy, as both ends look easy to get at. then it's just a matter of bleeding the system. if you buy aftermarket, chances are you'll have to buy at least 2 sections, and connect them with a union, and flare nuts, then bend it.
if you're fairly competetent(not trying to insult anyone with that term), and patient, and have a couple of metric line wrenches, you should be able to do this in one afternoon.
if you have to do it on the ground though, DO NOT work while it's on the jack........
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you may be able to buy a pre-bent one from the dealer, then it should be relatevly easy, as both ends look easy to get at. then it's just a matter of bleeding the system. if you buy aftermarket, chances are you'll have to buy at least 2 sections, and connect them with a union, and flare nuts, then bend it.
if you're fairly competetent(not trying to insult anyone with that term), and patient, and have a couple of metric line wrenches, you should be able to do this in one afternoon.
if you have to do it on the ground though, DO NOT work while it's on the jack........
I feel confident that i can do it. From studying the area, all i can see that i have to do to loosing both ends, remove the line, put the new line on and tighting the ends. What about the brake fluid, will i have to worry loosing a lot of it
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I feel confident that i can do it. From studying the area, all i can see that i have to do to loosing both ends, remove the line, put the new line on and tighting the ends. What about the brake fluid, will i have to worry loosing a lot of it
yes, you will. when you're doing the line itself, keep the lid on the master cylinder. this will minimize loss of fluid.
soak the fittings in wd40, or some sort of rust buster. make sure you use line wrenches on the line fittings....once they're loose, you can use a plain old open end wrench. when you re-tighten, use the line wrench again.
make sure you have a wrench on the nut that the flare nut if threaded into. also soak the poop out of the bleeder screws on the back wheels too......check to make sure you can loosen them, before you do the line, because if not, you won't have any way to bleed them.
once you've got the lines loose, you need to work somewhat quickly, so the master cylinder doesn't completely empty out.
once the new line is in place, and tight, remove the lid from the master, fill it to the top, and open the bleeders on the back wheels. make sure you have something to catch the brake fluid in. it'll take 5 or 10 minutes for them to gravity bleed. keep an eye on the master as they gravity bleed.
once you see decent fluid dripping from the wheel bleeders, close them both, and have an assistant pump the brake pedal........open the p/s bleeder first....pedal in the floor, them holding it, close it, and repeat till you get only fluid out. repeat same process with drivers side.
if at any point the master cylinder goes completely empty, you'll have to bleed the fronts too......you use the same process.
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A Wire brush, sandpaper, or even a sandblaster can do wonders :D
followed by --------->
--------->............................. ............................. ....(http://mansfieldsupply.com/images/paint/IMG_2592.JPG)
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hey Cap... as long as you're giving mechanical advice remember to a lot of us non mechanical types thin flat metal wrapped tightly looks like a coil
on the phone listening to a mechanic I once knew while trying to replace a lawnmower pull rope
'okay take that part off and be careful about the spring'
'um I got the top off and I don't see a spring'
'well it has to have one so just look for it and make sure you keep it in its place'
'no all i see is a coi.... ' WHIZZWHIZZWHAPWHAPWHAP FLIIIIIINNNNNNNNNGGGGGG
'what was that'
'a coil'
'no that was the spring'
'I'll just buy a new lawnmower'
:)
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yea, i try to keep my explanations in terms that people can relate to.
but you're right. sometimes i get kinda carried away with myself, and start typing as if i'm talking to another tech.