Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: Dichotomy on November 09, 2010, 09:15:02 AM
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okay gents I've done a lot of web research but generally the best advice on do it yourself comes from here so how would you go about removing paint from kitchen cabinets? I want to take mine back to the original wood and stain them
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Zip strip/ elbow grease/ scraper / elbow grease/ sandpaper / more elbow grease
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http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2removepaint
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yep that's one of the links I looked at. I'm just glad I don't just have to hand sand those puppies all the way.
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Your'e in for a lot of work.
You can use a paint stripper. I go for the strong stuff, rubber gloves and ventilation.
You can try the less toxic citrus based stuff.
Use as little water as possible to rinse the stripper off.
You will still likely have a lot of sanding to do, if they are basically flat, it won't be too hard
If there are a lot of details, bevels and such it will be a lot more difficult.
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well thank God I've got three strapping lads between 17 and 21 that work for food then. I'll do the stripping and let them do the sanding :devil
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okay gents I've done a lot of web research but generally the best advice on do it yourself comes from here so how would you go about removing paint from kitchen cabinets? I want to take mine back to the original wood and stain them
small flame thrower, then pee on them. :devil
seriously.......the only way i know of, is elbow grease, and time.
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Sandblast them then when all the damage is done tell the wife that you want to get her a present for being such an amazing woman in your life. If you play your cards right you will get something out of the deal to lol :salute GL sir.
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Wire brush on a right-angle grinder never hurts, either.
Well, only if you get too aggressive and the quills start shooting out :D
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Sandblast them then when all the damage is done tell the wife that you want to get her a present for being such an amazing woman in your life. If you play your cards right you will get something out of the deal to lol :salute GL sir.
[/quote
Fortunately I'm no longer encumbered by one of those ;)
Von that was my first thought but I could see myself cutting huge gouges in them and replacing cabinet doors is not my idea of fun :D
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Palm-sanders work pretty well, just take your time.
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Fortunately I'm no longer encumbered by one of those ;)
Von that was my first thought but I could see myself cutting huge gouges in them and replacing cabinet doors is not my idea of fun :D
Then why all the resto. work? Just beat them with some chains, rub dirt on them and call it the "rustic" look.
Besides, if there is no wife you are obliged (as a bachelor) to have nothing but beer, condiments and chunky milk in the fridge and Ramen noodles and Cheeze-Its in the cabinets.
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Ummm because I like living in a nice place? The basic requirements have already been met. And, besides, I'm undoing my horrific mistake of saying to the ex 'sure paint it however you like it' UGH...
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make your kid do it. :devil
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I'll get him and his friends to help me. They're a pretty good bunch of guys.
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Ummm because I like living in a nice place? The basic requirements have already been met. And, besides, I'm undoing my horrific mistake of saying to the ex 'sure paint it however you like it' UGH...
Oh.....
Can't help ya there... :D
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that's the ticket!!!!
i'll bet they'll run circles around ya for some good pizza, and soda.
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Depending upon the type of paint and how many layers you must get through, a heat gun or heat plate may be a good option.
<S> Melvin
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that's the ticket!!!!
i'll bet they'll run circles around ya for some good pizza, and soda.
psh.. they'll do it because they have a place to hang and I don't hassle them.. besides they're good kids and I usually grill up some burgers and dogs when they do.
Melvin I know it's two coats but the last one was applied in haste and not very thoroughly. I'll probably experiment with the chemicals on one section this weekend to see what the results are.
Like I said in the op.. this is generally the best place to find someone who has done something I haven't to get some pointers prior to screwing something up :D
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psh.. they'll do it because they have a place to hang and I don't hassle them.. besides they're good kids and I usually grill up some burgers and dogs when they do.
Melvin I know it's two coats but the last one was applied in haste and not very thoroughly. I'll probably experiment with the chemicals on one section this weekend to see what the results are.
Like I said in the op.. this is generally the best place to find someone who has done something I haven't to get some pointers prior to screwing something up :D
Well, you didn't say that there was food involved, before...
Hell, throw in some beer and I'll be there, too :aok
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of course there's beer involved... I'll be expecting you Saturday :lol
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of course there's beer involved... I'll be expecting you Saturday :lol
How many feet of clear space near your house? If it's at least 550 ft., we're golden. :aok
I'll be there as soon as I'm finished my build :D
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/bhawk.jpg)
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Arlington has a nice airport.. I'll pick you up there. Nice plane by the way.
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Arlington has a nice airport.. I'll pick you up there. Nice plane by the way.
Not mine, but that's the one I'm building.
Mine will be wearing late war Luftwaffe livery :aok
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I've had pretty good luck with the citrus based stripper.
Put on a fairly thick layer, let it set for 5 - 10 then grab a putty knife or scraper.
Will partly depend on how many layers need to come off and exactly what kind of paint is on it.
Remove all the fronts, the hardware, etc, lay em out on sawhorses in the garage. Whats left is normally fairly small strips. Getting it out of details in the doors, thats the hard part.
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Use steel wool with the stripper, it helps a lot!
<S> Oz
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Use steel wool with the stripper, it helps a lot!
<S> Oz
i tried using steel wool with a stripper once. it didn't end well at all. :noid
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i tried using steel wool with a stripper once. it didn't end well at all. :noid
:rofl :rofl
For her or you?
<S> Oz
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i tried using steel wool with a stripper once. it didn't end well at all. :noid
:rofl
when Red Seal comes out your nose it is NOT pretty sir
:rofl
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35 years building and restoring custom homes...here is my two cents...
First off what is under the paint?
What are the cabinets made of?
Is the finish factory enamel or some schleps attempt to cover over the original wood finish with some crappy paint and brush work?
Are the drawer fronts solid wood or veneer and tape ?
Are the doors paneled veneers with taped edges or are they solid wood rail/frame and panel inserts or are they pressure molded products?
What is the existing finish...is it latex over oil or latex over laquer or oil over OR WHAT?
What is under that existing finish...is it hardwood or soft wood...does it even look good when you strip a sample section..
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Before you go down this road...make sure you know exactly what your dealing with...and forget anybody who said sandblast or sand...those guys have no clue what they are talking about...you will blow right through the thin veneers in a second...
Tip:
Stripping cabinets to wood finish is normally ONLY worthwhile when the cabinets are older and made from real wood and are constructed using coped frames and solid laminated panels...if your dealing with anything but solid wood...its cheaper to just go and buy new boxes and install them yourself...
Sanding or stripping cheap plywood boxes is an utter and complete waste of time...
I cannot count the times I have seen weekend warriors completely fail trying to strip cabinets with home owner strippers from places like Home Depot etc...only to further destroy the out come by attacking with an orbital sander...
It is EXTREMELY rare that any cabinet layered with paint is worth stripping...unless you live in a home at least 50 years old....and the cabinets were made the old school way before they invented cheap plywood...
We often strip old doors...vintage doors that are worth saving...and we do it by pulling the doors and the hardware on them and sending them to strippers who dip them in tanks of caustics...it is virtually the only time we ever consider stripping old paint from vintage and worthy elements...
Out
Oneway
Edit: If you want actionable intelligence on this question:
Take a picture of the cabs outside and in...and post it here...
Describe exactly what the existing finish is, and to the best of your ability ascertain what is under that
Find out what species of wood your attempting to uncover
Get a rough date of the manufacture of the cabinet
Try to ascertain whether the cabs are custom or factory
Once you do that you can only then begin to get 'advice'
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There are heat guns available for stripping paint, I have never used one myself. 20 years ago I refinished some kitchen cabinets made from birch with chemical remover and elbow grease (sanding). They came out real nice when finished. I don't think I would do it again though, at least not for birch.
If I did it again I would try the heat gun, the chemicals, rubbber gloves, smell gets old fast.
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35 years building and restoring custom homes...here is my two cents...
First off what is under the paint?
one layer of what appears to by acrylic paint
What are the cabinets made of?
looks like some pressboard construction.. fairly cheaply built
Is the finish factory enamel or some schleps attempt to cover over the original wood finish with some crappy paint and brush work?
schleps
Are the drawer fronts solid wood or veneer and tape ?
Solid wood.. soft
Are the doors paneled veneers with taped edges or are they solid wood rail/frame and panel inserts or are they pressure molded products?
Pressure molded
What is the existing finish...is it latex over oil or latex over laquer or oil over OR WHAT?
Looks like latex over latex
What is under that existing finish...is it hardwood or soft wood...does it even look good when you strip a sample section..
Can't really tell I've got a broken door I can strip and look at
========================
Before you go down this road...make sure you know exactly what your dealing with...and forget anybody who said sandblast or sand...those guys have no clue what they are talking about...you will blow right through the thin veneers in a second...
I deal with powdercoated steel on a daily basis.. pretty much knew that
Tip:
Stripping cabinets to wood finish is normally ONLY worthwhile when the cabinets are older and made from real wood and are constructed using coped frames and solid laminated panels...if your dealing with anything but solid wood...its cheaper to just go and buy new boxes and install them yourself...
Sanding or stripping cheap plywood boxes is an utter and complete waste of time...
I cannot count the times I have seen weekend warriors completely fail trying to strip cabinets with home owner strippers from places like Home Depot etc...only to further destroy the out come by attacking with an orbital sander...
It is EXTREMELY rare that any cabinet layered with paint is worth stripping...unless you live in a home at least 50 years old....and the cabinets were made the old school way before they invented cheap plywood...
We often strip old doors...vintage doors that are worth saving...and we do it by pulling the doors and the hardware on them and sending them to strippers who dip them in tanks of caustics...it is virtually the only time we ever consider stripping old paint from vintage and worthy elements...
Out
Oneway
Edit: If you want actionable intelligence on this question:
Take a picture of the cabs outside and in...and post it here...
Describe exactly what the existing finish is, and to the best of your ability ascertain what is under that
Find out what species of wood your attempting to uncover
Get a rough date of the manufacture of the cabinet
I'm guessing 1973 maybe 2 house was built in 73
Try to ascertain whether the cabs are custom or factory
factory
Once you do that you can only then begin to get 'advice'
Oneway see above.. budget is an issue and thanks sir.. I bought a quart of paint remover today and was going to test it in the next week.. Now I'm going to hold off