Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: potsNpans on November 13, 2010, 09:08:42 PM
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Does any one have any experience with using a throttle quadrant for trim or throttle. I currently use the 1/2 throttle section of an X-52, utilizing it's rotary analog dials for trim. I like the idea of positional awareness of the levers with a throttle quadrant and would like to know if any fliers have given such a try.
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I have never used the throttle as the trim but have used the rotaries on various throttles or even hat switches on the stick for trim functions. Might be a novel way to do it; as soon as I get my new HOTAS I will have to give that idea a try to see how it works.
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I use a CH throttle quad (which actually has 6 levers, not 4).
On it I have mapped aileron and elevator trim. It really took a while to get used to, but now that I am used to it, I think it's very helpful. I can trim hands-off sometimes, but generally use auto pilot if I want to do that. I still use combat trim, though, at times. In a fight where you blow speed or follow a diving con, your speed changes and constantly adjusting the trim is a chore. For many fights you can set a "medium" speed trim and keep it on that for the fight.
I tried initially mapping rudder trim. It's not as helpful. Every time you bank the ball rolls left or right in the slip indicator. I've got rudder pedals and it's a bit more practical to use them to try centering. Plus, if you map rudder trim you don't get the benefit from toggling combat trim on and off. It won't stay at the last trim for that speed when you turn it off. Instead it jumps back to the axis input.
I've recently started playing with rudder trim again on my fighterstick's throttle axis. Not very convenient, but I haven't decided to get rid of it or not yet.
I have mine for my left hand. From the left most lever I have it mapped as such:
1) aileron (push = roll right, pull = roll left)
2) elevator (push = nose down, etc)
3) zoom FOV (push = higher zoom)
4) rpm
5) engine 1
6) engine 2
I started out having RPM 1 and 2. Makes no difference, but it's fun. I sacrificed one of my RPMs for zoom FOV. It's a nice thing to be able to control.
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I use a Saitek for Trim. I recently added the scale marks to match the generic trim indicators in AH. The position markers on the levers are double stick tape. When I have some time I'll replace the paper with something that looks nicer.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/5176058032_90c231dce5_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/17911582@N03/5176058032/)
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I use a Saitek for Trim. I recently added the scale marks to match the generic trim indicators in AH. The position markers on the levers are double stick tape. When I have some time I'll replace the paper with something that looks nicer.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/5176058032_90c231dce5_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/17911582@N03/5176058032/)
wow that is cool!!!!! is there a site i can find those on?
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So how do you like your Warthog HOTAS?
I use a Saitek for Trim. I recently added the scale marks to match the generic trim indicators in AH. The position markers on the levers are double stick tape. When I have some time I'll replace the paper with something that looks nicer.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/5176058032_90c231dce5_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/17911582@N03/5176058032/)
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It lives up to the hype. :aok
I hope you don't have to wait too long. :devil
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I have 3 levers on my CH Throttle quadrant mapped as trim axys. I like it. It takes a lot of getting used to, however.
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I think I would prefer the Saitek design over the CH. It appears the travel throw from 0 to 100% is farther on the Saitek than the CH model in photos. Does this seem to make a difference in adjusting trim setting? CH does have a few more levers for additional mapping.
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CH quad gives a less than 90 degrees throw on the levers. Maybe 75 or 80 degrees. I haven't measured it.
What I find annoying is this physical detent on the low end of the throttle. I guess they were thinking for reverse thrusters and brakes on some flight sims. It's annoying.
It gives a soft spot when you work in the detent zone. However, that's at the complete minimum, so usually you don't have to trim in that zone. Most of the trim area is in the middle, and CH works just fine for that.
EDIT: Although it WOULD benefit from custom tick markers like the picture posted above. That would help a LOT. Not sure why they overlooked it at CH!
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Saitek levers are just under 90 degrees. I doubt there's any practical difference between the CH and Saitek.
I changed the scale. I printed white on black, sealed it with clear packing tape and mounted it with double stick tape.
It looks better now. It's mounted upside down because I prefer the buttons on the top.
(http://www1.mediafire.com/imgbnc.php/39050fffea1a58fc107f7bddf7060fc20e18b79aa23616a2fbe35af2198ed7fb5g.jpg) (http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?quickkey=n3oec6hvnnaqorf&thumb=4)
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Krusty, on the CH Throttle unit, place the levers that you intend to use for trims just above the detente, and then calibrate those individual axys in AH only from that point to the top of the range and back. This way, the detente is out of the way, you've input minimum trim when you touch the detente.
If you don't calibrate this way, you'll find that some of the aircraft need to be trimmed right on the detente for best climb speed, which is annoying because it's practically impossible.
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Thanks for the reply's, I think I'll give it a try as my current x-52 continues to go sour.
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Krusty, on the CH Throttle unit, place the levers that you intend to use for trims just above the detente, and then calibrate those individual axys in AH only from that point to the top of the range and back. This way, the detente is out of the way, you've input minimum trim when you touch the detente.
If you don't calibrate this way, you'll find that some of the aircraft need to be trimmed right on the detente for best climb speed, which is annoying because it's practically impossible.
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That's too much of a hassle. It's hard enough to get them all centered (no middle detent! Argh!) when calibrating them. I have to pin them between 2 un-sharpened #2 pencils and look down the side to make sure all of them are "standing up straight"....
Let's just say it's a really nice piece of hardware, but they could have stood to do a bit of product testing and ergonomics before finalizing the design.
I don't dare install the CH profiler software. It adds "detent buttons" which I loathe... any time you try calibrating or mapping in AH and it presses the buttons! Got all kinds of crap mapped to them that shouldn't have been. Next time I reformatted I left the CH software off and just use the plug-n-play. Problem with this is I can't combine CH products -- which just is cool, by the way.
P.S. Due to soft detents and individual lever actions, I found the detents were actually all slightly different on each lever. That's another reason why I don't just throttle past the detent to calibrate. I wish I could open her up and remove them physically but I don't think it works that way.
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It's hard enough to get them all centered (no middle detent! Argh!) when calibrating them
I must be missing something, but why would you care exactly where center is on them? And same with detente - if one is a smidgen less or more than the other when it kicks in, what does that impact?
The button thing though is a pain, I agree - which is partly why it makes sense to calibrate AH to just the range outside of the detente.
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It can screw up calibration inside AH if you don't return to center before clicking the "OK" button.
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If you want to calibrate a partial range just look at the numbers you're getting to find the actual midpoint.
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It can screw up calibration inside AH if you don't return to center before clicking the "OK" button.
Well yes, but ... for trim, it's not going to matter a hill of beans as long as you are somewhat close to center.
What the center point does is change how much scaling is applied to the range on either side of center. For example, if your joystick actually travels the range of 100 to 1100, and and you "center" on 600, the travel will be exactly equal for each step of change above and below 600. At 1100 AH is going to be at 65535, and at 100 AH is going to be at 0, while at 600, it's going to be at 32767. Each step of movement on the controller is going to move AH by about 65 points, throughout the entire range.
If you center on 200 (an extreme example) then at 1100 AH is still going to be at 65535, and at 100 AH is still going to be at 0 - no change at the extremes. But at 200 it's going to report 32767, and each step of movement above 200 is going to move AH up by about 37, while each step of movement below 200 is going to move AH downward from 32767 by about 3277 points. Or in other words it will move from full to the bad centerpoint slowly, and then move very quickly from center to 0 after you cross the center point.
But it's trim, not a joystick input, so as long as you are even halfway close to the center of the travel when you center, you're fine. You'll never be able to even tell the slight difference between the scaling above versus below the centerpoint as long as you look at the numbers and eyeball a place roughly half way through the calibibration range to set to before clicking OK.
And if you really want to get wiggy - go modify the files directly, and replace the center value by hand - it's the easiest way to "exactly" center an analog device that doesn't actually have a center.
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