Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: F22RaptorDude on June 26, 2011, 10:38:46 PM
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So I know what one I want, Its a RTR Rally car.(http://site.nitrorcx.com/51C819-StripeRed-24Ghz-01.jpg) http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c819-stripered-24ghz.html (http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c819-stripered-24ghz.html) and i'm getting the starter kit and everything. But I was curious, is there anything I should know about this before I get it? I used to have an Electric truck that did roughly 30 mph and it lasted for around 3-5 years before the battery smoked and melted the battery box. So I have somewhat of some experience with this stuff. and there's a hobbytown a few miles away so I can buy fuel and get it maintained and extra parts.
I would be running it on level and super powdery dirt and on my schools jogging track, so like I said just needing some advice or opinions before I jump in.
Also I don't know what color I want, its red or blue but that's not important at all right now.
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not a bad little nitro truck, price is good. do some research and see if its upgradeable with tires, shocks, how easy are the parts to get things like that to help you make an overall decsion. as far as the places you describe where your going to run it sounds fine, they can take some abuse ( jumps and tricks) but get used to how it handles and use some lead weights to equal out the front and rear balance then when you do jump it the truck will jump level and not nose dive or backflip over.
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You want it in red.
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not a bad little nitro truck, price is good. do some research and see if its upgradeable with tires, shocks, how easy are the parts to get things like that to help you make an overall decsion. as far as the places you describe where your going to run it sounds fine, they can take some abuse ( jumps and tricks) but get used to how it handles and use some lead weights to equal out the front and rear balance then when you do jump it the truck will jump level and not nose dive or backflip over.
Was intended for more use in road races for my liking. I looked at spare parts and upgrades and all I can find are the extra body's that are just different colors. As far as wheels and such they seem to fit all the 1/10 universally, so i'm guessing the same goes with shocks and other parts, the hobby store in Duluth has a repair station where you can drop off and pick up your nitro cars and they will fix them.
I'll be using this alot in Winter on the schools jogging track and maybe the football field grass, anything I should know about operating it in Winter?
You want it in red.
Yeah I do actually lol
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You will need to break the engine in. Usually takes several tanks of Nitro. Follow the manufactures break in instructions. Do not rush the process or you may shorten the engines life. Only start tuning the engine after you break it in.
You will probably have to tune the engine every time you run it. It will take time to learn to dial it in. Slight changes in humidity and temperature can throw the engine tune off. I've seen people suggest tuning based on cylinder head temperature, in my opinion this is not the way to do it. It is a good idea to purchase an infrared thermometer so you can monitor the cylinder head temps and make sure you aren't running hot.
I had a pull start nitro R/C car, never again. Stater box for the win.
If the truck comes out of the box with the body looking like it does in the pictures, you will want to cut out the front window and an area above and behind the engine.
Looking at the pictures of the truck, the suspension looks very weak. I bet those a-arms will break if you look at them wrong. Buy extra parts when you order the truck. Front and rear a-arms and any other plastic parts that may break frequently.
Remember this thing can top 60 mph. Make sure you operate it in a safe manner. If you do decide to purchase it I hope you enjoy it.
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You will need to break the engine in. Usually takes several tanks of Nitro. Follow the manufactures break in instructions. Do not rush the process or you may shorten the engines life. Only start tuning the engine after you break it in.
You will probably have to tune the engine every time you run it. It will take time to learn to dial it in. Slight changes in humidity and temperature can throw the engine tune off. I've seen people suggest tuning based on cylinder head temperature, in my opinion this is not the way to do it. It is a good idea to purchase an infrared thermometer so you can monitor the cylinder head temps and make sure you aren't running hot.
I had a pull start nitro R/C car, never again. Stater box for the win.
If the truck comes out of the box with the body looking like it does in the pictures, you will want to cut out the front window and an area above and behind the engine.
Looking at the pictures of the truck, the suspension looks very weak. I bet those a-arms will break if you look at them wrong. Buy extra parts when you order the truck. Front and rear a-arms and any other plastic parts that may break frequently.
Remember this thing can top 60 mph. Make sure you operate it in a safe manner. If you do decide to purchase it I hope you enjoy it.
How exactly do you tune an engine? and i'll look into buying extra a-arms and an infrared thermometer.
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I had an rc10-gt , I can say I only enjoyed rc cars/trucks on hard surfaces and sand... the beach was awesome with sand paddle tires! but with all the repairs and wear and tear (mostly transmission and final drive, I even replaces plastic with mettle) I now only enjoy flying rc's . I just posted another threat here in the O'club with on board video of one RC, and I'm currently still working on a Hanger 9 P-51 1.50 scale 80" wingspan.
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I had an rc10-gt , I can say I only enjoyed rc cars/trucks on hard surfaces and sand... the beach was awesome with sand paddle tires! but with all the repairs and wear and tear (mostly transmission and final drive, I even replaces plastic with mettle) I now only enjoy flying rc's . I just posted another threat here in the O'club with on board video of one RC, and I'm currently still working on a Hanger 9 P-51 1.50 scale 80" wingspan.
I'm just the opposite, converting from flying to driving. I just got tired of flying for some reason, plus I figure (for me personally) Nitro racing has more potential for me.
My grandfather is good with mechanics, he used to work at the hobbytown until the pay wasn't enough. He works on cars all the time, if something happens I can always talk to him about it and get advice or repair, and if all else fails i can just take it to the repair shop.
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very true
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New brushless electrics are the way to go IMO. Less fuss more fun and crazy fast.
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So you use electronics instead of brush and magnet position to tailor the motor's power/speed range as well as power consumption?
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I use nitro because of the MUCH less power\electric usage just refill and keep going and going and going......
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So you use electronics instead of brush and magnet position to tailor the motor's power/speed range as well as power consumption?
Yup efficient and with new lipo packs long run times. No mess to clean just charge and go. Most are as fast or faster than nitro now.
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I use nitro because of the MUCH less power\electric usage just refill and keep going and going and going......
With lipo, 3 pacs you can do the same.
Didn't address the "MUCH less power".
hmmm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUCixIVGagM
:rofl
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Seems to Mutch hastle to use electric cause the battery poops then you havd to go home and charge, Nitro go much faster and also go faster, and the all out feeling of power can't be matched to a electric
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Seems to Mutch hastle to use electric cause the battery poops then you havd to go home and charge, Nitro go much faster and also go faster, and the all out feeling of power can't be matched to a electric
Nitros are not faster...not any more. Many chargers will charge from a car battery... actually good chargers prefer DC to AC.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iXrRA3Ldcc&feature=relmfu
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This site gives some tips on engine tuning.
http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm
I agree with Bronk, stick with electric. With nitro your going to spend a few hours breaking in the engine. Then you'll spend even more time trying to come to grips with engine tuning. I love the sound of nitro engines, but electric motors get my vote due to their ease of use.
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http://fastestrc.blogspot.com/2008/03/guinness-world-record-for-fastest-rc.html
not nitro :ahand
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This site gives some tips on engine tuning.
http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm
so tuning is using different fuel mixtures? I'm deeply confused
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so tuning is using different fuel mixtures? I'm deeply confused
You buy the fuel from 5% to i think 25% nitro. Tuning is to set air/fuel at idle and wot. It is better to see smoke than not. ;)
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You buy the fuel from 5% to i think 25% nitro. Tuning is to set air/fuel at idle and wot. It is better to see smoke than not. ;)
so is there a knob to adjust the fuel air/ mixture?
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There are three screws. High speed needle screw, low speed needle screw, and idle adjustment screw. You need to adjust all three.
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This site gives some tips on engine tuning.
http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm
I agree with Bronk, stick with electric. With nitro your going to spend a few hours breaking in the engine. Then you'll spend even more time trying to come to grips with engine tuning. I love the sound of nitro engines, but electric motors get my vote due to their ease of use.
I own both and for just playing around the electric is always being used. I only take out the gas when everybody else is... it is just to big a pain. Glow plugs, fuel, starter box, ect...ect... ect..
Electric plug it in and GO!!!
Ohh a big thing on electrics.... reverse!! Not many nitro jobs have it. It may not sound like a big deal till you wedge it in 100' or more away and you wish you had it. :D
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I own both and for just playing around the electric is always being used. I only take out the gas when everybody else is... it is just to big a pain. Glow plugs, fuel, starter box, ect...ect... ect..
Electric plug it in and GO!!!
I'd rather work a ton, I want to hear and feel the power
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I'd rather work a ton, I want to hear and feel the power
K, remember that when you are trying to figure out why the GD thing refuses to run... you have been warned!
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K, remember that when you are trying to figure out why the GD thing refuses to run... you have been warned!
my grandfather and help me out if I need the help, and the hobbystore too, I just wanted the knownledge to get started once I get it, and plus I'm so sick of the electric noise that motors use
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Your mind is made up then and do not want the opinion from someone who has run both for many years... fine.
I am not saying you will not enjoy a nitro job. I am saying you would enjoy electrics more. My first R/C was a nitro job and after I tried an electric I wished I'd have got the electric first.
Good luck and I wish you well.
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Get ready to change the servos right off the bat. I've yet to see a RTR with servos that were fast enough and enough torque required to satisfy.
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Your mind is made up then and do not want the opinion from someone who has run both for many years... fine.
I am not saying you will not enjoy a nitro job. I am saying you would enjoy electrics more. My first R/C was a nitro job and after I tried an electric I wished I'd have got the electric first.
Good luck and I wish you well.
Its not that I don't want an opinion, i've had electric before and wasn't fully satisfied, keep in mind that we are two different people thus we think differently. Not implying being mean at all, I want to try gas for now and my mind changes every now and then, I might fully end up with an electric again before my b-day in 2 months. Plus this body comes with an electric version to which is out of stock. http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-rallymonsterep-pro-carbonblue.html (http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-rallymonsterep-pro-carbonblue.html)
To say, I only have 2 problems with electric vs gas, 1. battery has to be recharged and I don't want to buy extra. 2. I like the feel of visible and heard power. Electric cars have the advantage of having all given power directed to the wheels where as with gas alot is lost as heat. But I just want something with the visible power feel, and the fact that I can carry a mobile fuel source would also be very grateful instead of waiting for batteries to charge.
With the Rally car electric the only complaint was battery life, so you can see my main concern. I don't know now cause I got what your saying against what I want, I need to think it through again...
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Its not that I don't want an opinion, i've had electric before and wasn't fully satisfied, keep in mind that we are two different people thus we think differently. Not implying being mean at all, I want to try gas for now and my mind changes every now and then, I might fully end up with an electric again before my b-day in 2 months. Plus this body comes with an electric version to which is out of stock. http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-rallymonsterep-pro-carbonblue.html (http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-rallymonsterep-pro-carbonblue.html)
To say, I only have 2 problems with electric vs gas, 1. battery has to be recharged and I don't want to buy extra. 2. I like the feel of visible and heard power. Electric cars have the advantage of having all given power directed to the wheels where as with gas alot is lost as heat. But I just want something with the visible power feel, and the fact that I can carry a mobile fuel source would also be very grateful instead of waiting for batteries to charge.
With the Rally car electric the only complaint was battery life, so you can see my main concern. I don't know now cause I got what your saying against what I want, I need to think it through again...
What was your electric r/c car?
You do realize they make the electrics pit in races...not because they run out of juice... but because now the new lipo packs last longer than the tanks on the gas jobs.
A good brushless with lipos should run 15-20 min... you will get 10- 15 with gas.
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What was you electric r/c car?
It was a 1/16 scale truck I got at Hobby town when I was 10, lasted until I turned 14 and finally the connector wires to the battery shorted and melted the battery box and destroyed the whole battery box.
I have no idea of the name but it did roughly 30 mph depending on what battery I was using, flipped easily though had to use really small movements at full speed to avoid rolling.
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this same applies to RC Air. I have not, and do not plan, to do RC ground, but, with my airplanes and helis, I have a couple of turbine jets, which is another story entirely, but aside form those, EVERYTHING i have has been converted to electric. Nitro is a royal pain, and not worth the effort. With the advent of cheap batteries from hobbyking.com, electric has become very competitive price wise with nitro, even when considering multiple battery packs. For instance, a 6 cell 5000mah LiPo, which is 22.2 volts.. will fly an airplane which is approx a .60 size nitro engine. Those batteries run about 60 bucks a piece, a motor for 40, and an ESC for another 30.. 9these are estimates, not hard #s)
A decent nitro engine int hat size would run about 200... so... if you bought 3 batteries, plus the motor and esc, that's about 50 bucks more than the nitro, which would EASLIY be made up in paying 22 bucks a gallon or nitro fuel...
Not to mention, with electric, you plug it in and GO! no more fiddling with crap, you just FLY (or drive)...
Do some research also, there are modules which have been developed for RC air which use a speaker and a digital processor to reproduce engine noise... nothign quite like having an RC P-51 that actually SOUNDS like a real Merlin! bet there are some modules for rc land out there similar...
Been in RC air for 27+ years, and my best advice is GO ELECTRIC (unless you want to go turbine, but thats a whole nother thread)
Matt
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this same applies to RC Air. I have not, and do not plan, to do RC ground, but, with my airplanes and helis, I have a couple of turbine jets, which is another story entirely, but aside form those, EVERYTHING i have has been converted to electric. Nitro is a royal pain, and not worth the effort. With the advent of cheap batteries from hobbyking.com, electric has become very competitive price wise with nitro, even when considering multiple battery packs. For instance, a 6 cell 5000mah LiPo, which is 22.2 volts.. will fly an airplane which is approx a .60 size nitro engine. Those batteries run about 60 bucks a piece, a motor for 40, and an ESC for another 30.. 9these are estimates, not hard #s)
A decent nitro engine int hat size would run about 200... so... if you bought 3 batteries, plus the motor and esc, that's about 50 bucks more than the nitro, which would EASLIY be made up in paying 22 bucks a gallon or nitro fuel...
Not to mention, with electric, you plug it in and GO! no more fiddling with crap, you just FLY (or drive)...
Do some research also, there are modules which have been developed for RC air which use a speaker and a digital processor to reproduce engine noise... nothign quite like having an RC P-51 that actually SOUNDS like a real Merlin! bet there are some modules for rc land out there similar...
Been in RC air for 27+ years, and my best advice is GO ELECTRIC (unless you want to go turbine, but thats a whole nother thread)
Matt
:aok
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this same applies to RC Air. I have not, and do not plan, to do RC ground, but, with my airplanes and helis, I have a couple of turbine jets, which is another story entirely, but aside form those, EVERYTHING i have has been converted to electric. Nitro is a royal pain, and not worth the effort. With the advent of cheap batteries from hobbyking.com, electric has become very competitive price wise with nitro, even when considering multiple battery packs. For instance, a 6 cell 5000mah LiPo, which is 22.2 volts.. will fly an airplane which is approx a .60 size nitro engine. Those batteries run about 60 bucks a piece, a motor for 40, and an ESC for another 30.. 9these are estimates, not hard #s)
A decent nitro engine int hat size would run about 200... so... if you bought 3 batteries, plus the motor and esc, that's about 50 bucks more than the nitro, which would EASLIY be made up in paying 22 bucks a gallon or nitro fuel...
Not to mention, with electric, you plug it in and GO! no more fiddling with crap, you just FLY (or drive)...
Do some research also, there are modules which have been developed for RC air which use a speaker and a digital processor to reproduce engine noise... nothign quite like having an RC P-51 that actually SOUNDS like a real Merlin! bet there are some modules for rc land out there similar...
Been in RC air for 27+ years, and my best advice is GO ELECTRIC (unless you want to go turbine, but thats a whole nother thread)
Matt
Those turbine's run around 2-5K they are so cool though. some of the new RTR cars are bind and ride. Only problem would tuning the engine, and fueling it up. Also at my Hobby town you can get 2 gallons of fuel for 20 bucks which will last a while i'm told if you don't gun it constantly.
Also there's just a thing with me and planes that doesn't mix, once I got into it I could keep a plane in the air until the battery died, but for some reason they crashed because of parts falling out or coming loose even though I always double checked my stuff constantly. On my aerobird I had it for 26 successful flights before the electronics went haywire and I crashed, then when I got the body replaced the wing snapped in half doing a turn and the crash destroyed the v-tail and the body.
Hellcat was the same, I was finally able to fly it good but the damage from crashing before did it in, the wings wobbled uncontrollably but I was able to make a turn around and land. Added the extra epoxy to the wings and took off again and was able to keep it in the air despite the wings shaking so much the ailerons were useless. Eventually the right wing just flew off and it went spiraling out of control.
My wildhawk was a mistake from the beginning, flew it in my front yard and not the giant field across from the school where it would have been best to fly it. It got so torn up it wouldn't even fly when you threw it.
After all those experiences I just got to scared to try it again.
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Those turbine's run around 2-5K they are so cool though. some of the new RTR cars are bind and ride. Only problem would tuning the engine, and fueling it up. Also at my Hobby town you can get 2 gallons of fuel for 20 bucks which will last a while i'm told if you don't gun it constantly.
Also there's just a thing with me and planes that doesn't mix, once I got into it I could keep a plane in the air until the battery died, but for some reason they crashed because of parts falling out or coming loose even though I always double checked my stuff constantly. On my aerobird I had it for 26 successful flights before the electronics went haywire and I crashed, then when I got the body replaced the wing snapped in half doing a turn and the crash destroyed the v-tail and the body.
Hellcat was the same, I was finally able to fly it good but the damage from crashing before did it in, the wings wobbled uncontrollably but I was able to make a turn around and land. Added the extra epoxy to the wings and took off again and was able to keep it in the air despite the wings shaking so much the ailerons were useless. Eventually the right wing just flew off and it went spiraling out of control.
My wildhawk was a mistake from the beginning, flew it in my front yard and not the giant field across from the school where it would have been best to fly it. It got so torn up it wouldn't even fly when you threw it.
After all those experiences I just got to scared to try it again.
Build foamies... check this guys stuff out. http://www.youtube.com/user/rcsuperpowers?blend=2&ob=4
A little imagination you can build some cool stuff. http://www.youtube.com/user/rcsuperpowers?blend=2&ob=4#p/u/86/iSCq14Okhis
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Build foamies... check this guys stuff out. http://www.youtube.com/user/rcsuperpowers?blend=2&ob=4
Tried the F22, Cut everything down but had to cut out shapes at least 5 times because they never fit, in the end its in my room being held together with tape because the epoxy didn't stick. I'm just not crafty at all anymore.
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I wasn't trying to convince you to go air, jsut pointing out that even us air guys are moving towards electric. Honestly the turbine, the only reason I use them is because of the "cool" factor... they sound, and smell, like a full scale jet. The electric ducted fans are actually performing jsut as well, and some even BETTER than the turbines!
If you want to see the performance of an electric jet, go to my thread titled "rc video". my Habu 32 is electric, and performs nearly as well as my F/A-18...
http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/topic,315612.0.html (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/topic,315612.0.html)
As for tuning the engine etc, thats a huge part of it, with a nitro. for every minute of flight/drive time you get, figure 2 minutes of maintenance/tuning. this is jsut not true with electric, sure there is SOME tuning, but not nearly as much.
if you truly want to learn to fly air, get a mid-sized electric foamie TRAINER, seek out a club near you, and GET AN INSTRUCTOR.. sure, you will pay membership dues, but in likely 1 summer, you will be proficient enough to move up to something like the hellcat. Another thing that works wonders is a simulator, such as Realflight. Sure, its pricey @ about 200 bucks, but it will save you at LEAST that much in repairs. To this day, if I am learnign a new maneuver on a heli for instance, I will practice the snot out of it int he sim, before moving to the real deal...
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What was your electric r/c car?
You do realize they make the electrics pit in races...not because they run out of juice... but because now the new lipo packs last longer than the tanks on the gas jobs.
A good brushless with lipos should run 15-20 min... you will get 10- 15 with gas.
I have no idea what model it was, I can maybe find it and take a picture though I think I might have thrown it away. The battery would last for about 15-25 mins. and HobbytownUSA no longer carries it.
I wasn't trying to convince you to go air, jsut pointing out that even us air guys are moving towards electric. Honestly the turbine, the only reason I use them is because of the "cool" factor... they sound, and smell, like a full scale jet. The electric ducted fans are actually performing jsut as well, and some even BETTER than the turbines!
If you want to see the performance of an electric jet, go to my thread titled "rc video". that Habu 32 is electric, and performs nearly as well as my F/A-18...
http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/topic,315612.0.html (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/topic,315612.0.html)
As for tuning the engine etc, thats a huge part of it, with a nitro. for every minute of flight/drive time you get, figure 2 minutes of maintenance/tuning. this is jsut not true with electric, sure there is SOME tuning, but not nearly as much.
I'm reconsidering my strategy towards this.
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(see my post above, I edited it to add more after you replied)
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(see my post above, I edited it to add more after you replied)
Problem is i'm already good enough to fly the hell cat, I was able to land it with out much aileron control cause of the wings rocking. The only reason I'm going ground is because of the mental limitation of the air, I would love to do it, I have the skill already, I just don't have the guts to have another costly crash due to electrical or other problems that usually arise. Notice in my video I had a good take off but lost control due to rocking wings again, and I guess damage done before. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ck7J0viGOu0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ck7J0viGOu0) It looked really good until I got up to speed. For the whole plane including electronics was around 400 bucks, The electronics are still good except for the speed control. (shorted out in my pool when I was using it for my boat project and it capsized)
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based on that video you do not have skill up to par to fly something like that hellcat.
3 problems.
1. based on the appearance, your previous experience with this plane has been rough.
2. You flew witht he wings "rocking" as you say.. BAD IDEA. if you did a proper pre-flight check, followed by repairing any issues (the wing issue could easliy have been fixed, would have taken me all of 10 mintues to do), you would not have these failures, whether it be electronic or physical in nature.
3. The airplane flew as if it was far too tail heavy. Did you check the balance? did you know you NEED to balance an airplane? Warbirds are known to be VERY sensitive to out of balance conditions, especially if tailheavy.
this is why I say get an instructor. It will teach you good habits, and before you know it, you will be flying 140+mph jets like myself and many others.
I HATE to see someone give up on the RC air hobby, it is such a great hobby and educational to boot...
I would be willing to guide you to a proper trainer, and even assist you to the extent I can with setting it up, and then finding a club and instructor.
Matt
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based on that video you do not have skill up to par to fly something like that hellcat.
3 problems.
1. based on the appearance, your previous experience with this plane has been rough.
2. You flew witht he wings "rocking" as you say.. BAD IDEA. if you did a proper pre-flight check, followed by repairing any issues (the wing issue could easliy have been fixed, would have taken me all of 10 mintues to do), you would not have these failures, whether it be electronic or physical in nature.
3. The airplane flew as if it was far too tail heavy. Did you check the balance? did you know you NEED to balance an airplane? Warbirds are known to be VERY sensitive to out of balance conditions, especially if tailheavy.
this is why I say get an instructor. It will teach you good habits, and before you know it, you will be flying 140+mph jets like myself and many others.
I HATE to see someone give up on the RC air hobby, it is such a great hobby and educational to boot...
I would be willing to guide you to a proper trainer, and even assist you to the extent I can with setting it up, and then finding a club and instructor.
Matt
I will look into it, seeing as how i'm getting a job as soon as i turn 16 i'll have something to spend my money on. As far as the video goes I was trying to get some altitude to avoid hitting the house, I saw I needed to ditch as soon as I took off, but I quickly thought to get alt and try to swing around the house, I guess I had the stick jammed to far down, I was panicing, but I guess that means I really am not experienced.
(http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/HBZ/450/HBZ3600-450.jpg) As far as my AeroBird 3 went(No longer sold) I ran it until the batteries ran down and I had to land by gliding in, it only failed when the electrics screwed up that one time and when I flew it in to much wind, I had no idea the wing would snap into an L, I actually thought it was a pretty sturdy bird never had a problem with flying characteristics
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Btw: Another reason I was wanting to switch is because of my eye sight, Glasses don't help as much and when the plane is high off he ground its very vital to see, with the hell cat it got to the point to where I couldn't see it and I had to figure out where I was pointing to come back.
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I've had electric and Nitro R/C cars. The electric one was fun but wasn't that great. My current R/C car is an OFNA 4X4 Nitro buggy. It'll do around 55-60mph. Its also made out of mostly metal. hardley and plastic on it what so ever so its quite heavy but extremely durable. I've lanched it off skateboard ramps and watched it flip multiple times and never break once. The only thing I've had go wrong with mine was the rear differential stripped out from doing to many donuts. The radio crystals went bad and i had to replace them but other than that no problems at all. The only problem is the $25/ gallon nitro fuel is just a hair on the expensive side and i don't have anywhere withing 60+ miles of me to buy it. So I haven't drove it in over a year. All in all I perfer Nitro. The engine takes some tuning and ABSOLUTELY needs to be broken in correctly but overall great fun.
When it come to airplanes though I go electric all the way. Nitro airplanes are a royal pain to maintain.
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Did some more browsing and looking at opinions on different forums, i'm going electric to avoid the hassle and going to buy 3-4 batteries. http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-pro-rallymonsterep-aablue.html (http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-pro-rallymonsterep-aablue.html) Looks really cool and the price is just a tad bit more than nitro, luckily the batteries are 15 each and they are pretty big. (http://cctvgroups.com/nitrorcx/1-10/electric/51c809Pro-Edited/51C809-PRO-RallyMonsterEP-AABlue-04.jpg)
As for planes, they just don't appeal to me right now.
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Did some more browsing and looking at opinions on different forums, i'm going electric to avoid the hassle and going to buy 3-4 batteries. http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-pro-rallymonsterep-aablue.html (http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c809-pro-rallymonsterep-aablue.html) Looks really cool and the price is just a tad bit more than nitro, luckily the batteries are 15 each and they are pretty big. (http://cctvgroups.com/nitrorcx/1-10/electric/51c809Pro-Edited/51C809-PRO-RallyMonsterEP-AABlue-04.jpg)
As for planes, they just don't appeal to me right now.
Do yourself a fav.... get LiPo batteries and charger you will be much happier.
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Do yourself a fav.... get LiPo batteries and charger you will be much happier.
What kind of lipo? They have Blue, Sky, and Gens Ace
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What kind of lipo? They have Blue, Sky, and Gens Ace
I'm using Reedy but that is because I got a deal when I bought a set up from someone who needed the $$.
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Yeah 130 is a bit much for a battery, but from the looks of them I can charge them off my plane charger/discharger without much problem, just gotta change the cords out, but I don't have the cord I need, when I get it i'll go to the hobby store in Duluth and see what they have.
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Put a camera on that thing, and you could make a great The Fast and the Furious style video. Add even half-decent voice acting, and you've got yourself a video that will last throughout the ages.
-Penguin
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Put a camera on that thing, and you could make a great The Fast and the Furious style video. Add even half-decent voice acting, and you've got yourself a video that will last throughout the ages.
-Penguin
I was planning on using it for a video of me racing my schools jogging track with up to 8 different camera angles including a camera on the car. and either using the song Eurodancer by DJ Mango or Real gone by Sheryl Crow.
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the hanger 9 p-51 that I'm using is actually strait gas, not nitro or 2 stroke fuel, but pump fuel... it is the evolution http://www.evolutionengines.com/Products/Zoom.aspx?ProdID=EVOE26GX
oh and here, do a voice over on these ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad3txWpfyBg - tough taking off and landing between powerlines
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YugioiuSmuo - highest altitude , takes a while to get there, then engine quite.. glide to land in field
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wJN0xK3AVk&feature=related -wing shot
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I was planning on using it for a video of me racing my schools jogging track with up to 8 different camera angles including a camera on the car. and either using the song Eurodancer by DJ Mango or Real gone by Sheryl Crow.
Yep, and if all else fails, drive up to New Hampshire, get some fireworks, and do as FPS Russia did.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPZnRZt0iFY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPZnRZt0iFY)
-Penguin
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the hanger 9 p-51 that I'm using is actually strait gas, not nitro or 2 stroke fuel, but pump fuel... it is the evolution http://www.evolutionengines.com/Products/Zoom.aspx?ProdID=EVOE26GX
oh and here, do a voice over on these ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad3txWpfyBg - tough taking off and landing between powerlines
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YugioiuSmuo - highest altitude , takes a while to get there, then engine quite.. glide to land in field
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wJN0xK3AVk&feature=related -wing shot
Where's the oil Basin?
Yep, and if all else fails, drive up to New Hampshire, get some fireworks, and do as FPS Russia did.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPZnRZt0iFY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPZnRZt0iFY)
-Penguin
Oh Hell no I don't want to make something as delicate as that explode, I might use a crappy walmart car to do that ;)