Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: dkff49 on October 06, 2011, 06:44:47 AM
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000ALFCI/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_g147_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=08M2W9JCS28RJ07GHXHE&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846
I might try cannibalizing this controller for another project.
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I have a Logitech controller similar to the one in the link. AH recognizes it.
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I don't see why it wouldn't. I know that some games will "ignore" non-approved controllers (I've had to modify the registry to work around this with some games) but Aces High isn't like this. If the PC sees it then Aces High will see it.
I think it's sad that other game company use practices like that....
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If it is a PC controller, AH will recognize it. Basically it is just three 4/8 angle hats and a bunch of buttons. Or if the pods (mushrooms? whatever!) have pots, it's a double joystick with a hat and buttons. Anyways, it's fully configurable in AH. Before breaking it apart, tack it into a neat position with double sided foam tape to find out what you'd like to do with it. A friend has a simpler one of that breed as an AH radio controller and some more. Heck, I guess I should go and find me one of those, always could use some more buttons.
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they don't cannibalize easy, as the circuit board is more than likely a film variety. I bought one to try the same thing and found that out when I opened it up. nothing to solder to.
68valu
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Typically the sticks on a game controller are pretty low resolution as compared to a regular joystick.
I see no reason why it would not work with the game.
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they don't cannibalize easy, as the circuit board is more than likely a film variety. I bought one to try the same thing and found that out when I opened it up. nothing to solder to.
68valu
Interesting info valu. I will have to look into that a little further.
Thanks
edit. just gave another look at the pics included with listing on amazon and it has a circuit board. :aok
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Interesting info valu. I will have to look into that a little further.
Thanks
edit. just gave another look at the pics included with listing on amazon and it has a circuit board. :aok
That would be interesting to know if it can be used. The one I purchased on ebay had no microswitches to solder on to. If that one does, let me know.
<S>
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That would be interesting to know if it can be used. The one I purchased on ebay had no microswitches to solder on to. If that one does, let me know.
<S>
it will be about a week or so until i order it, but as soon as i know i will post it up.
:salute
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thank you very much for the info skuzzy.
mostly i want it for the buttons though.
thanks
:salute
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That would be interesting to know if it can be used. The one I purchased on ebay had no microswitches to solder on to. If that one does, let me know.
<S>
I didn't have to buy that one from Amazon since Lawndart hooked me up with this one. http://www.amazon.com/Catz-X360-Gamepad-Cntrlr-Xbox-360/dp/B000QSM5E0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318005447&sr=8-2
not to mention a few other retired controllers to cannibalize.
The above gamepad has a circuit board with microswitches that should be easily soldered to. Though I haven't actually wired the switches yet (since I don't have them. I did use a jumper wire to test each of the switches out. This game pad gave me 14 buttons that can be used.
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If LawnTard sold all his old computer stuff, he could probably buy a new house. :neener:
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Well I was trying to be nice....plus when i ned help on my next case idea I might ask him for help on it. I have some ideas but putting them to paper and reality is gonna take some time..
Cal do you want to buy my computer?? LOL I will sell it cheap... 2800.00 plus shipping..LOL
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i have like 2 of those and nothing to do with them
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Cal do you want to buy my computer?? LOL I will sell it cheap... 2800.00 plus shipping..LOL
Thanks, but I'll stick with my TRS-80.
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i have like 2 of those and nothing to do with them
Considering that each of those is good for 14 useable buttons in AH, you could use them for the buttons in game or you can donate them to any one of us here. :D
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I have been using these with AH for years. I just counted my inventory, and found I have at least 20 of them in 6 different AH systems. I don't solder to them; I just mount them (usually upside-down) for convenient access to the exposed buttons. Here's a web page showing the way I use them:
http://techvideoreview.com/FlightSimMovies/General/ControlsAndCockpits/JoysticksControlsAndFlightSimCockpitsFullPage.htm
The best of the video clips is the one labeled "Desktop Version". Click that one for a brief tour showing my preferred implementation.
:salute
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Here you go 68valu.
I have all the wires connected to the board now. I left the microswithches in place and just soldered directly to the board. I know this is not the best method but I figured that if it became necessary they might aid in diagnosing any problems. I was also able to solder to the "pads" that some of the buttons used, for example the start and select buttons.
All wires work and all that is necessary is to add the switches. This particular one goes out to another party who will handle the mounting portion.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/p_00133.jpg)
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Here you go 68valu.
I have all the wires connected to the board now. I left the microswithches in place and just soldered directly to the board. I know this is not the best method but I figured that if it became necessary they might aid in diagnosing any problems. I was also able to solder to the "pads" that some of the buttons used, for example the start and select buttons.
All wires work and all that is necessary is to add the switches. This particular one goes out to another party who will handle the mounting portion.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/p_00133.jpg)
nice work!! wtg i'm gonna try those next build!
I'll
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nice work!! wtg i'm gonna try those next build!
I'll
Thanks valu.
This one was real easy to work with. It's nice and small and simple to mount in place and inexpensive. If I have any more to build after I get the extra controls that I have used up, I too will be using these.
They give 10 buttons plus 1 4-way hat. I think that after a little testing i can make the total number of buttons equal 18. Which should give more than enough additions to most systems. :D
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quick update.
Here is the controller ready to ship out. The end user is going to design and build his own console but asked that I handle the electronics end of things. This little unit will give him 17 new mappable buttons. Each switch handles 2 functions, which means he would have had 18 but while I was relearning good board sodlering, I burned through a trace :cry .
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/p_00134.jpg)
Before any one asks, the extra set of wires hanging off are for a push button that I have not purchased as of yet but will add prior to shipping out.
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NICE :rock
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Thanks Flench
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hey dk i like those buttons. can you provide a link to them please :rock.
semp
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They are located here.
http://futurlec.com/SwToggle.shtml
The ones i used were the DPDT(mom) or Double Pull Double Throw momentary switches part DPDT101mom I think they are $.90 a piece and shipping is pretty inexpensive as well. The only downside I found is that they are cheap and feel that way but i really didn't havethe money to spend close to $3 a piece from radio shack for better ones.
Good Luck. As usual if there are any questions you have feel free to either ask here or pm me.
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DPDT means Double Pole, Double Throw Basically it means there are two switches locked together and they can be switched to one connection OR the other. There are 6 connections on the switch. Usually the 3 on one side are one switch, the 3 on the other the second. Each set of 3 are the common connector (usually the center one) and the other two, one of which will be closed with the common and the other open to the common.
....and that concludes today's lesson in electrical nomenclature. :D
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To add to fugi's description, the ones I used are also center off.
Center off means that there when you are not pushing the switch in either direction it will be in the middle making both "switches"/circuits open.
Lesson 1.2 a continuation of today's lesson
:D
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DPDT means Double Pole, Double Throw Basically it means there are two switches locked together and they can be switched to one connection OR the other. There are 6 connections on the switch. Usually the 3 on one side are one switch, the 3 on the other the second. Each set of 3 are the common connector (usually the center one) and the other two, one of which will be closed with the common and the other open to the common.
....and that concludes today's lesson in electrical nomenclature. :D
i am laughing really hard fugitive. not at you but at me. I got a learning disability where I cant understand instructions unless i first visualize them on my head. not a biggie but your first sentence made me laugh as the only thing i can visualize is, well you know :rofl. anyway thanks. once i order the switches I am pretty sure I'll figure out what you mean :salute.
semp
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They are located here.
http://futurlec.com/SwToggle.shtml
The ones i used were the DPDT(mom) or Double Pull Double Throw momentary switches part DPDT101mom I think they are $.90 a piece and shipping is pretty inexpensive as well. The only downside I found is that they are cheap and feel that way but i really didn't havethe money to spend close to $3 a piece from radio shack for better ones.
Good Luck. As usual if there are any questions you have feel free to either ask here or pm me.
thanks ordering those :salute.
semp
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No problem semp. If you have any questions give pm me and i can work up a little diagram to help you visiualize where to make the connections. They are actually pretty easy to connect as long ad you can solder. Just he careful you dont hold the heat on there for too long. I have melted the leads right off the switches. I actally ordered extra in case i melted any leads off.
Good luck semp
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Soon I will be posting up pics of the box that I built for the board posted earlier in this thread. I am not going to show it until I get it in primer at least.
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Soon I will be posting up pics of the box that I built for the board posted earlier in this thread. I am not going to show it until I get it in primer at least.
COOL !!!!
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As promised, here they are in primer and ready for paint.
Before they leave here they will be painted and one will have switches installed in it and the other is shipping out to go with the board displayed earlier in this thread.
I will post up some pics of the completed one prior to delivering it.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/DSCF2070.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/DSCF2071.jpg)
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As promised, here they are in primer and ready for paint.
Before they leave here they will be painted and one will have switches installed in it and the other is shipping out to go with the board displayed earlier in this thread.
I will post up some pics of the completed one prior to delivering it.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/DSCF2070.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/DSCF2071.jpg)
NICE !
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As promised, here they are in primer and ready for paint.
Before they leave here they will be painted and one will have switches installed in it and the other is shipping out to go with the board displayed earlier in this thread.
I will post up some pics of the completed one prior to delivering it.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/DSCF2070.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm146/dkff49/DSCF2071.jpg)
Looks Good dkff!
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Thanks guys. Seems both parties are also happy with the progress.