Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: homersipes on May 26, 2012, 10:22:07 PM
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My dads boss just crapped out. The whole instrument cluster just quit and the radio, but the car still starts and runs. wondering if it would be ok to drive or a flat bed?? blown fuse maybe??
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I would flatbed it, could be a network issue and could leave you stuck on the road. Ford has a free towing service to the nearest dealer "Roadside assistance" 1-800-241-3673
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rgr that wezel thanks
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Checking fuses is cheap and easy. Usually though there is a good reason when one blows out. New car = call the dealership.
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yeah he just got home from a 31 day hitch at work went out to go for a ride and no gauges lol. the car was parked the entire time, must be mad at him for not driving it
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There was a glitch in one year of corvette where if you left the car unlocked but otherwise completely closed up and shut down, the battery would drain in a couple of days. Maybe the battery is low enough that it is in a fail-safe mode.
Or maybe someone is pranking him and put the lights into stealth mode. My car has a stealth mode where if you hold a button at the same time as turning off the headlights (or something like that), the entire car goes dark. It isn't permanent in my car but maybe Ford has some goofy lighting mode like that.
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A buddy's car was acting up and died while loading it on his trailer the morning of a race. We thought it was the low battery at first and swapped with another. No dice. It had all sorts of weird behavior and was throwing a safe mode code but wouldn't even start.
It ended up being a loose PCM fuse.
I've heard of the gauge cluster going bad an it's an easy dealer fix. You could do it at home but there's no need since its user warranty. When stuff like that happens its usually something basic that's gone wrong.
Good luck!
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My dads boss just crapped out. The whole instrument cluster just quit and the radio, but the car still starts and runs. wondering if it would be ok to drive or a flat bed?? blown fuse maybe??
flatbed it. tell him to not even try to figure it out himself. just let the dealer deal with this one.
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yeah he is taking it back to the dealer probably tuesday, wasnt sure if you had this happen with yours CAP1. Should have went chevy :neener:
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GM isn't much better about failure rates on instrument clusters. My Dad jokes on that whenever he isn't working on an Arcadia or a Colorado/Canyon, he is replacing a instrument cluster out of a new GMC vehicle (or replacing modules that can cause a instrument cluster to stop working, like Radio or Airbag modules) :neener:
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yeah he is taking it back to the dealer probably tuesday, wasnt sure if you had this happen with yours CAP1. Should have went chevy :neener:
mine has been flawless. no tranny problems, no clutch stay out problems when i took it to 6k rpm, no nothing, except for sheer perfection.
funny thing, is that there's a few cars that ALWAYS mess with me when i'm in the dakota, generally on one of the roads when i leave my shop. not a single one of them messes with me in the gt.
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GM isn't much better about failure rates on instrument clusters. My Dad jokes on that whenever he isn't working on an Arcadia or a Colorado/Canyon, he is replacing a instrument cluster out of a new GMC vehicle (or replacing modules that can cause a instrument cluster to stop working, like Radio or Airbag modules) :neener:
funny thing about that....there's a car forum i talk on, where they constantly come down on the fords. i did a search in my info system on the 2011 gt and the 2011 camaro ss. gt has 4 tsb's. camaro ss has 317 tsb's. :devil
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Did the boss upgrade include that new color dash? If so, the harness may have come loose. Mine did that when I swapped out the stepper motors last year. Just didn't lock it down properly, came loose. Pulled the dash, reset the main cable, made sure it locked properly and no problems since.
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Did the boss upgrade include that new color dash? If so, the harness may have come loose. Mine did that when I swapped out the stepper motors last year. Just didn't lock it down properly, came loose. Pulled the dash, reset the main cable, made sure it locked properly and no problems since.
by new color, do you mean the "mycolor" thing that ford does? if so, all mustangs have that.
cool thing is that if you hit redline, the entire tach turns red. ford dropped the ball there. that would be one cool assd shift light.
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MyColor comes on Premium version. Base versions don't have it. I don't know about the 2013's which have a whole lot of options you couldn't pick individually with 2012s. I'd have stuck Recaro seats in my car if I could've.
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This is why I despise vehicles newer than 1984. My 84 S-10 will fire right up every time, and if there is a problem, I can fix it on the side of the road with some duct tape and bailing wire lol.
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MyColor comes on Premium version. Base versions don't have it. I don't know about the 2013's which have a whole lot of options you couldn't pick individually with 2012s. I'd have stuck Recaro seats in my car if I could've.
id have only done them in leather, and heated........this past winter, i can't begin to tell you how dam good those seats felt on my back.
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This is why I despise vehicles newer than 1984. My 84 S-10 will fire right up every time, and if there is a problem, I can fix it on the side of the road with some duct tape and bailing wire lol.
your bbs id....you in civil air patrol?
secondly.....you're driving down the road. with no warning your car shuts off. you crank it, but it doesn't attempt to start.
1)how do you determine what caused the stall?
2)once determined, what can you do?
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id have only done them in leather, and heated........this past winter, i can't begin to tell you how dam good those seats felt on my back.
How many odometer miles was that? 17? :neener:
Drive your car man!! Street Car Shootout at Cecil this weekend. Coworker and I will both be there (you PMd on ls1tech I believe) and he's kicking bellybutton in his freshly built Z06.
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your bbs id....you in civil air patrol?
secondly.....you're driving down the road. with no warning your car shuts off. you crank it, but it doesn't attempt to start.
1)how do you determine what caused the stall?
2)once determined, what can you do?
(http://i.imgur.com/YcZYK.jpg)
I remember my family having an S10 when I was little, one of these was kept in it as it seems anything that went wrong with it could be fixed with a couple of well aimed whacks! :rofl
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How many odometer miles was that? 17? :neener:
Drive your car man!! Street Car Shootout at Cecil this weekend. Coworker and I will both be there (you PMd on ls1tech I believe) and he's kicking bellybutton in his freshly built Z06.
nah....it was probably about 800. this weekend, meaning now? or next weekend? and yea, i had talked to him in pm. he thought he had a buddy interested in my camaro.
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(http://i.imgur.com/YcZYK.jpg)
I remember my family having an S10 when I was little, one of these was kept in it as it seems anything that went wrong with it could be fixed with a couple of well aimed whacks! :rofl
you know i've gotten chrysler minivans running using one of those? their fuelpumps will temporarily work if you hit the tank right in the middle while someone cranks the engine.
back when i used to drive my old cars, i always had a spare set of points, cap and rotor, with the appropriate tools, a couple clamps, some hose, and some duct tape.
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nah....it was probably about 800. this weekend, meaning now? or next weekend? and yea, i had talked to him in pm. he thought he had a buddy interested in my camaro.
6/2. I haven't run there yet despite the fact it's just about in my back yard. Going to T&T Wednesday or Street night Friday to check it out.
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6/2. I haven't run there yet despite the fact it's just about in my back yard. Going to T&T Wednesday or Street night Friday to check it out.
weather permitting, maybe i'll drive down after work.......probably won't race the car, as i'm just not wanting to beat her up yet.....but it'd be good to go watch, and smell that burning rubber.......
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you know i've gotten chrysler minivans running using one of those? their fuelpumps will temporarily work if you hit the tank right in the middle while someone cranks the engine.
back when i used to drive my old cars, i always had a spare set of points, cap and rotor, with the appropriate tools, a couple clamps, some hose, and some duct tape.
Yea, My dad says he still uses a rubber mallet when no-starts come in when he thinks its the fuel pump. Most of the time it will get the pump working long enough for them to get the vehicle into the shop without having to push it. He also liked hitting faulty ECMs on older vehicles like his S-10 to see if they will start working before he replaced them anyways. :)
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a sharp tap with a hammer works for sticking starter motor solenoids too :aok
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Also mighty useful on an alternator. At least it worked on my Audi and my Volvo.
Bob
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This is why I despise vehicles newer than 1984. My 84 S-10 will fire right up every time, and if there is a problem, I can fix it on the side of the road with some duct tape and bailing wire lol.
I "fondly" recall accomplishing various repairs on my old 1980 fairmont in parking lots while on the road, with the minimal toolkit I kept in the back. Super easy to work on with just a tiny bit of prior knowledge, and the shop manual would usually fill in the blanks.
Still, my 1998 firebird broke down on the road exactly once, and that was due to user error. My wife ran the car out of gas a few times but didn't immediately pull the key out, so she burned up the fuel pump with the tank dry. That was the one time it was ever towed. The only other major engine issue with that car was a water pump that gracefully failed with a leak that started slow so I was able to drive it to a shop to get fixed. And even that was "user error" since the overflow line was clogged and the cooling system was overpressurized, which probably led to the leak. But that car has gone over 150,000 miles now with only the one tow.
I think I'm ok trading ease of roadside maintenance for reliability, at least for a daily driver. If I was taking a car to the middle of nowhere then yea I'd want one I could take apart and rebuild with a minimal kit. Then again, I've never purchased a car based on price alone so I've been lucky to be able to buy reliable cars that haven't needed much work.
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a sharp tap with a hammer works for sticking starter motor solenoids too :aok
There is a solenoid in the T-6 that occasionally sticks, and the inflight "fix" is to sharply whack the glareshield between the front and rear seats, about 6 inches to the right of center and about 20 inches forward of the glareshield edge. That solenoid turns the motor's ignitors on and off so when it sticks on the ignitors run continuously and if it sticks off the motor might quit with no relight capability. When it sticks on the ignition light comes on and sometimes you can hear a little tick tick tick over the intercom, but there would be no warning if it sticks off.
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They called me "the fonz" at JM lexus.
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a sharp tap with a hammer works for sticking starter motor solenoids too :aok
that doesn't normally work on todays permanent magnet starters.
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I am no mechanic....but one time in the Challenger i was screaming down this back road and all of a sudden my oil pressure hit dead zero and smoke started pouring out of the engine compartment....I pull over pop the hood and oil is everywhere...damn.....well a bit of searching and I found that the line from the block to the pressure gauge was brittle and broke off....what the hell to do??????
basically no tools....
fixed it with a bottle cap. :aok cut it to size with a pocket knife stuck it under the hose connector at the block.
happen to have enough oil in the trunk filled her up and off we went....no oil pressure...but it worked perfect till I got a new line.
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If it is still under warranty do NOT move it or power it up. Give the (nearest) dealer a call and let them tow it in. Make sure to get the person's name at the dealer (and write it down) if they give you any instructions for diagnosing the problem. However, the dealer should fix it for free if still under warranty. If you decide to drive it or fix it yourself you may get stuck paying for fixing it. I would recommend disconnecting the car's battery to be absolutly safe until a dealer is consulted. Electrical fires can happen really easy. Chances are a blown fuse or loose connector is to blame.
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disconnecting the battery, while in light of the ford truck cruise control problem is a good suggestion.....isn't a good idea unless they tell him to do so. if there are any codes associated with this problem, they will be lost after an extended lack of 12v
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Yea. Don't disconnect the battery. That's bad for cars nowadays.
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a sharp tap with a hammer works for sticking starter motor solenoids too :aok
I preffer no bounce when its not covered/painted.
Top of my head:
-old honda, throttle cable started getting sticky in one, so one day after school I tried starting *bu, bu, buu, vroooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMM MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMOM GWTF!* Shut her off, poke around, couple taps behind the throttle, *tink*, some WD40, and straight to the shop for a repalcement it went (if it wasn't a manual or as old as I was at the time, probabley would of towed it).
-bonco II spare tires
-old honda thermostats (alternatively, old honda electric-driven radiator fans)
-mercury outboards (well, half the time it's legit, the other half are purely rage-filled.)
-trailer hitch, post-uncle/relative (the last episode called for 20lb Bertha)
You guys metnioning gas tanks and motors - I'm thinking the next thing that I'll be giving the treatment to is that retarded evap sensor on my CRV's gas tank that lightsup everytime I torque my gas cap to 24 rather than the required 25 (seriously).
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You guys metnioning gas tanks and motors - I'm thinking the next thing that I'll be giving the treatment to is that retarded evap sensor on my CRV's gas tank that lightsup everytime I torque my gas cap to 24 rather than the required 25 (seriously).
I had the same light come on in my Silverado not long ago. I had been meaning to put a locking gas cap on it anyway since I leave it parked for extended period of times anymore and that solved the problem. I wasn't convinced I had the massive leak required for that code to be thrown and it was a simple matter of a poorly sealing fuel cap.
Might be worth the $10 to troubleshoot.
Now I can't seem to use any amount of force in the proper direction to remove the old fuel cap from the lanyard that fixes it to the truck. I have to stuff the old one in the door because I don't want to cut the lanyard because "someday" I might actually get to it. It's 91º out so I'm not sure that today is that day. Any tips on that would be welcome.
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I would recommend disconnecting the car's battery to be absolutly safe until a dealer is consulted.
That is absolutely, positively, the LAST THING one should do with vehicles nowadays.
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Well it ended up being the alternator I guess. Was sending spikes to the computer luckily it didnt cook the computer
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I preffer no bounce when its not covered/painted.
Top of my head:
-old honda, throttle cable started getting sticky in one, so one day after school I tried starting *bu, bu, buu, vroooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMM MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMOM GWTF!* Shut her off, poke around, couple taps behind the throttle, *tink*, some WD40, and straight to the shop for a repalcement it went (if it wasn't a manual or as old as I was at the time, probabley would of towed it).
-bonco II spare tires
-old honda thermostats (alternatively, old honda electric-driven radiator fans)
-mercury outboards (well, half the time it's legit, the other half are purely rage-filled.)
-trailer hitch, post-uncle/relative (the last episode called for 20lb Bertha)
You guys metnioning gas tanks and motors - I'm thinking the next thing that I'll be giving the treatment to is that retarded evap sensor on my CRV's gas tank that lightsup everytime I torque my gas cap to 24 rather than the required 25 (seriously).
aahh..you get the dreaded "very small evap leak detected" code. i think it's a p0456, although i could be wrong.......
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I had the same light come on in my Silverado not long ago. I had been meaning to put a locking gas cap on it anyway since I leave it parked for extended period of times anymore and that solved the problem. I wasn't convinced I had the massive leak required for that code to be thrown and it was a simple matter of a poorly sealing fuel cap.
Might be worth the $10 to troubleshoot.
Now I can't seem to use any amount of force in the proper direction to remove the old fuel cap from the lanyard that fixes it to the truck. I have to stuff the old one in the door because I don't want to cut the lanyard because "someday" I might actually get to it. It's 91º out so I'm not sure that today is that day. Any tips on that would be welcome.
careful with locking gas caps dude. right after katrina, when gas was in the $4.00 range, people were punching holes in gas tanks to get the gas out.....if they couldn't remove the cap. better to lose a few bucks of gas, than a $300 gas tank.
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careful with locking gas caps dude. right after katrina, when gas was in the $4.00 range, people were punching holes in gas tanks to get the gas out.....if they couldn't remove the cap. better to lose a few bucks of gas, than a $300 gas tank.
I'll take the risk. The next car is the path of least resistance.
My concern isn't someone taking anything out anyway. It's a bunny boiler putting stuff in it.
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That is absolutely, positively, the LAST THING one should do with vehicles nowadays.
Ive seen worse where someone accidentally dropped a wrench and it shorted out the battery. The results were quite explosive. :bolt:
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I had the same light come on in my Silverado not long ago. I had been meaning to put a locking gas cap on it anyway since I leave it parked for extended period of times anymore and that solved the problem. I wasn't convinced I had the massive leak required for that code to be thrown and it was a simple matter of a poorly sealing fuel cap.
Might be worth the $10 to troubleshoot.
Now I can't seem to use any amount of force in the proper direction to remove the old fuel cap from the lanyard that fixes it to the truck. I have to stuff the old one in the door because I don't want to cut the lanyard because "someday" I might actually get to it. It's 91º out so I'm not sure that today is that day. Any tips on that would be welcome.
I've had it happen before and my mechanic check it out, it's a common early CRV issue, I guess it's really sensitive and can detect very minor leaks. But I'm more of your opinion, gas cap probabley doesnt seal as good as it should unless its cranked on.
Your gas cap lanyard, is it riveted on or is it only a fastener of some common or oddball variety?
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i forget the exact size, but todays evap systems can/will detect a pinhole.
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HEY GOLFER......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustang-2012-Ford-Mustang-BOSS-302-/320916053231?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4ab8165cef
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Just put an offer on a house so no Boss. I'll be building my 11.50 index and bracket C3 Vette :)
I just passed Americab Muscles Boss on high sy here in Wrst Chester. Orange as hell. Dealer by my housenisngiving away a 12 in the Competition Orange. I inquired in Feb and got my last call on it earlier this month. Mosey on over ;)
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Yea. Don't disconnect the battery. That's bad for cars nowadays.
Give me examples of why it is bad?
I would be careful about this suggestion. If the car catches on fire you and your insurance may be covering the bill. The dealer wants nothing to do with fixing this car because it is a loss to them and I can't blame them. They will do everything to NOT spend any more money fixing this car. This happened to my sister back in 1988. My sister bought a 2 year old used Nissan from a Nissan dealer. The car ran fine for a few months and one day it smoked a little and stopped working. Sorry, but I don't remember what failed. I took a look at the car and found an in-line fuse had blown. I called up the dealer and told them. The dealer gave me a new in-line fuse and I replaced it. A few more days went by and the car started to smoke again. My sister pulled over and was lucky another person stopped and helped her put out a small fire under the hood. We took the car to a neighboring car mechanic. The mechanic looked at the car and discovered the wiring harness was changed. The mechanic recommended taking it back to the dealer if still under warranty. After calling the dealer they agreed to pickup the car and tow it to one of their shops. The dealer discovered the wiring faults and blamed my sister for changing the wiring harness (please remember the 2-1/2 year old car was a Nissan and recently bought used from a Nissan dealer). The dealer wanted to charge my sister for labor and a new replacement wiring harness. I called the dealer up and told them what had happened. The dealer only charged my sister for the cost ($1500) of the new wiring harness. I still think she should have paid nothing. I have a feeling the wiring harness was changed by a dealership mechanic or maybe even at the factory at some point, but that's unknown.
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dealers don't lose on warranty work. they get reimbursed from the manufacturer. on the other hand, the mechanic doing the work won't get paid as well as on a paying job.
disconnecting the battery will kill memory. these computers learn. they'll lose all of that. if disconnected for long enough, they'll lose any associated codes.
if you disconnect the battery with the engine running, you can spike the computer. you don't want to spike the computer. more bad things can happen.