Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Help and Training => Topic started by: ONTOS on September 22, 2012, 11:49:31 AM
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Could you please explain how to manual calibrate the bomb sight. I can do the calibration in the main areas, but in the FSO, I can't. ( I'm from the South, so please make it simple :headscratch:) Thanks.
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Bring up the clipboard map hold the left-shift key and then mouse click the target on the map to set the target's altitude. Then hold the Y key, you use your joystick to keep the bombsite crosshairs steady on a ground target for a short time to set your ground speed.
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I'm sure someone will post a link, I would if I was on my computer.
Basically, once in calibration mode, left-shift key and click on your target to set the target altitude - especially important when target is not at sea level. Then slew your crosshairs forward a bit with your joystick. Then pick a spot on the ground (zooming in helps a lot if you're up high); hold the calibration key while moving your joystick to keep that spot on the ground steady under your crosshairs. The longer you can do it, the more steady you can keep the crosshairs, the more accurate the calibration. Aim for exact calibrated speed to match your actual speed, but iF you're within +/- 1 mph that is good.
It's easier to do than to explain. ;)
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Thanks for the help. I appreciate it. Thanks again. :aok
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Followup question to that...
Does it make any difference if you do the shift-click before or after you've followed the point on the ground?
Additionally, does it make a difference what you point at on the ground? What I'm wondering about is, just hypothetically, suppose you are at 25k, flying over water, and you calibrate off the coastline just as you go feet dry. Suppose just for grins that your target field is on a mountaintop inland at 8k feet. Will the fact that you did the crosshair thing on a point at sea level make any difference? I get that the shift-click on the field at 8k compensates for that, but I'm just wondering if it matters where you do the crosshair spotting.
Wiley.
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It shouldn't make any difference when you shift-click on the target, as long as it's before you exit calibration mode since all you're doing is allowing the bombsite to adjust for target altitude.
As far as tracking a spot on the ground to set your true ground speed, again it shouldn't matter whether you do it over water, shoreline, or a 8,000' plateau. Your plane doesn't traverse the Earth's crust at different speeds over different types of terrain.
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It doesn't matter what terrain feature or object you use as your calibration point. It also doesn't matter if your crosshair wanders off the point while you calibrate, as long as it is over the same point at the finish as it was at the start.
After you enter calibration mode, you can slew the bombsight using your stick. Push forward for a few seconds, then zoom in as far as you can to locate a calibration point far in front of you along your flight path. You might find that an easier way to get an accurate calibration.
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Thanks, gents. I appreciate the information.
Wiley.
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Maybe it's just me... but since AH2 became just (Aces High), I've never used any type of reference point for calibration, in fact it works to just hold Y down without moving anything.
Step by step:
Select ordnance
F6 (Bombsight position)
U (enter calibration)
Hold Y (5-7 seconds)
U (exit calibration
And you're set. No need to move the joystick anymore like you needed to in AH1 or AH2.
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Maybe it's just me... but since AH2 became just (Aces High), I've never used any type of reference point for calibration, in fact it works to just hold Y down without moving anything.
That's because we're talking about the manual calibration that is frequently used in Special Events, not the automatic calibration used in the Main arenas. ;)
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That's because we're talking about the manual calibration that is frequently used in Special Events, not the automatic calibration used in the Main arenas. ;)
I see, but this so called 'manual' calibration did exist in AH1, correct? I remember needing to do this at the time.
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I see, but this so called 'manual' calibration did exist in AH1, correct? I remember needing to do this at the time.
Before my time, but I remember reading that it was so.