Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: SFRT - Frenchy on November 18, 2012, 06:11:11 PM
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Is that a L28 with some type of head that is backward? I mean usually the intake manifold is on the Dr side, as is the exhaust.
http://sato1511.blog40.fc2.com/blog-category-47.html (http://sato1511.blog40.fc2.com/blog-category-47.html)
Or something different?
(http://blog-imgs-34.fc2.com/s/a/t/sato1511/IMGP7393.jpg)
(http://blog-imgs-34.fc2.com/s/a/t/sato1511/IMGP7347.jpg)
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Get with ruah he may help you out.
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Yes, it's a one-off build to make it a crossflow engine. The normal Nissan engine is non-crossflow.
Sorry, no time today to dig deeper into other links.
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Thx Rolex I got that too from the title of the youtube vid. :D
Im wondering where those heads are from and if the block is a L28. It says BMW in the title and that block sits slanted like beemers straight 6, but it looks like a Datsun block to me. Beemers have the intake on the dr side too.
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That looks like a 250 cubic in engine. I used to have one in an old Chevy. Mine only had a single carburetor.
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Duh, I didn't even look at the title... :rolleyes:
I'll check about the heads when I get a little time, Frenchy.
Added: I just talked to him on the phone. It's a standard Nissan 3100cc block with Nissan RB 20 heads.
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Google translate? :)
http://translate.google.com/#ja/en/
Good morning.
I attach the radiator the other day, so make the engine start check for oil leaks.
Place, the upper hose is a hindrance, not with fan coupling (sweat)
Mounting is also possible if you change the angle of the hose, etc., in order to better, a sense of response, switching to an electric fan specifications.
There was at hand, it is a large electric fan for Benz!
Originally, it is a thing of the press type, it is not attached to the front of the S30 is too large.
A little, but narrow, I was attached to the engine room by processing angle.
I think the cylinder head, became so cross flow, even when used in type push pull type, measures the heat, but this should be enough (laughs)
Then, with the radiator, so I do check for water leakage.
If you put the water, since the water leak from the water pump suddenly, was a little impatient, I was simply insufficient tightening (laughs)
You would use the original water pressure tester, because I want to check around the water, such as head, I multiply the instantaneous pressure in the air gun.
Remove the cam cover, air leakage listen with open ears, I was staring at the water leakage check of each part, no abnormality! !
Wait a few minutes ... after multiplying the pressure, it is evidence that the pressure "Pushu" ... If you open the radiator cap is not leaking!
So, to a full tank of cooling water, I'm starting the engine! !
As also confirmed from the engine room cut out, set the tachometer to the core support!
But it was one movement now (laughs)
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Facinatin'...I need a garage for my projects buy new roof on house priority. Found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VI3Oj90rm4 ...I have 240, a 260 and 280 awaiting my attentions. No rust here!
JGroth
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Thank you Rolex, appreciated the effort.
I have this 240 Block I'll try to shoe horn in the GT6, a 3.1 stroker is ridiculous $$$. I'm debating if I should get a 280 shortblock and balance it, or if I should bore/stroke it to a 280 balance it ... money wise.
I'm guessing balance the shortblock, work on the heads, brutal cam and tripple webers ... 240HP at the crank good to go.