Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: Randy1 on December 20, 2012, 06:13:10 AM
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I have one of those MS sidewinder joystick with the twist handle used for the rudder. When I close to make a shot with the P47M , the rudder input can send the plane into a wiggle, and a missed shot. Anybody come up with a controller advanced setting that will minimize this wiggle? Foot pedals are not in the budget for now.
I like the twist handle rudder for defensive maneuvering and take off and landings.
Thanks for the help.
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I have one of those MS sidewinder joystick with the twist handle used for the rudder. When I close to make a shot with the P47M , the rudder input can send the plane into a wiggle, and a missed shot. Anybody come up with a controller advanced setting that will minimize this wiggle? Foot pedals are not in the budget for now.
I like the twist handle rudder for defensive maneuvering and take off and landings.
Thanks for the help.
Increase deadband in the rudder and make the sensitivity profile logarithmic, meaning set the sensitivity values almost to 0 at the beginning of the curve, then exponentially increase the sensitivity in the rudder axis. This is what I've always done with the sidewinder and it provides a good feel. Small inputs make very small adjustments and large push makes a large push.
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Increase deadband in the rudder and make the sensitivity profile logarithmic, . . .
I had not experimented with the dead-band thinking I would get into a cliff kind of an effect. I will sure give that a go. I did flatten out the scaling curve some on the first four sliders but will push it a little more with the dead-band.
Thanks Mr. Ripley for the help.
I will post back when I try the changes.
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You should make a quick check that all is well with the hardware Randy, go to the Windows game controller program and then just watch the slider as you slowly twist your stick. The marker on screen should move smoothly. If it jerks around or jumps at all during moving then the pot might have gone bad :old:
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You should make a quick check that all is well with the hardware Randy, go to the Windows game controller program and then just watch the slider as you slowly twist your stick. The marker on screen should move smoothly. If it jerks around or jumps at all during moving then the pot might have gone bad :old:
The sidewinder uses allen sensors also for rudder so no chance of that.
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Not sure I've ever heard of one of those. What is it?
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Not sure I've ever heard of one of those. What is it?
Optical sensors instead of potentiometers. The Precision Pro 1 is virtually indestructable. I still have mine after 13 years in full working condition.
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Ah, alas no that is only the gameport version. I have disected both. The USB MS Sidewinder uses pots. I have pictures on the BBS somewhere...
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Ah, alas no that is only the gameport version. I have disected both. The USB MS Sidewinder uses pots. I have pictures on the BBS somewhere...
The Precision Pro 1 should use sensors regardless of the interface (although mine does have the gameport to usb dongle). The Precision pro 2 was made cheap with pots.
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Oh sorry, I assumed Force Feedback MS FF2.
I was also surprised as I'd heard they all used optical input. I think the Mark I has superior sensors but inferior mechanical layout. I also have to say that the MS FF2 pots do seem to be of extraordinary high quality, despite their small size.
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It is a MS Precision 2 with no feedback. I don't think it is a joystick issue I think it is me that is worn out. :)
I had a chance to move the dead band slider up about halfway while still using my original scaling curve. That seems to have helped a lot.
I also noticed that at the point I was squeezing the trigger, I was gripping the handle tight and that didn't help.
Maybe I can try it in the MA latter today.
Nrshida, I don't think the controller program made it over to W7.
Thanks again for the good advice.
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I don't think it is a joystick issue I think it is me that is worn out. :)
Report immediately to Microsoft to have all of your pots re-calibrated :old:
Another option is to map your trigger off the stick to the base say. The Mitsubishi Zero had the trigger on the throttle :banana: