Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: lerxst on December 20, 2012, 06:13:14 PM
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Hello guys and girls, i own the CH fighter stick,pro throttle and rudder pedals. ive used default scaling and the arch scaling shown on the web page,i can not seem to find a happy medium where i have the control i need esp at slow turn fighting or at high altitude.i know its a personal type set up for each person,just wondering if anyone might post pics of set ups they use and poss why as if because of fighter flying or buff flying i am always changing the scaling and i'm getting frustrated a bit.any advice would help thank you ! :pray
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Akak has an example of his stick scaling on the trainers page link IIRC.
Here's the link ---------> http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/
on the left, scroll all the way down to the misc. links/ trainers files. Clink on that and then on Akaks stick scaling. download info
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uptown thank you !
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I'd suggest to you also to cut that stall limiter off...if ya haven't already. You'll get more out of a slow bird with it off. :old:
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I'd suggest to you also to cut that stall limiter off...if ya haven't already. You'll get more out of a slow bird with it off. :old:
I agree. A player will have to learn to use their rudder to keep from dipping the wing and inverting, but as with most things practice makes for almost perfect. :aok
It seems to me the 109's and the 190's benefit the most from not having the limiter on, iirc.
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I'd suggest to you also to cut that stall limiter off...if ya haven't already. You'll get more out of a slow bird with it off. :old:
Yeah, make sure you disable the stall limiter, especially if you plan on using my stick scale.
ack-ack
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The other thing is to stick with one scaling. If your bouncing around with your scaling you'll never get use to it. The best thing to do is set it up, AkAK set is a good starting place, then either online in the TA, or offline fly at stall speed between the trees. I use to chase my CO through the trees for practice. It teaches you how to be easy on the stick and also the low end of your aircraft. Many fights end up low and slow, and if you practice that you'll have that much more of an advantage. Also, being that easy on your stick at stall speeds pays off when your really really high alt too. The smooth stick up there is the one that wins most fights.
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Lots of good advice in this thread. The thing I tell newer players is that all things flying should be smooth, if you jerk the controls your plane will have a disturbance in the airflow like Obi-Won felt in the Force when Alderaan was destroyed.
Use the scaling that AkAk has shown in the AH Trainer's links, that is a good place to start. Over time you will learn how to tweak it yourself. Dont be afraid to play with the buffer and damping, too.
If there is anything I can suggest that helped me was to be a wee bit more generous in the damping setting for the rudder. Working the rudder to harshly can ruin ACM's in a heartbeat. Also, if you have a twisty this will help keep you from inadvertently applying rudder when you dont want to. Food for thought.
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I turn all scaling off aside from maybe a bit of dead band. I like having instant control input in lo speed
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thanks guys, so far flying off line with no stall limiter on, ive scaled to ack-acks set up and i have plenty of response.as long as i keep the movements smooth i can get planes to respond without augering at all.of course its just a matter of time sticking to the set up becoming comfortable with it. now to learn the other planes strengths and weaknesses i fly against should be more of a challenge!!you guys rock thanks again :rock
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Since Hitech gave us the Ju87-G2 you have a way to evaluate your stick scaling for things like dead band induced nose bounce and scaling over sensativity in your intial travel movement.
Dead band induced nose bounce during gunnery happens becasue you have too wide of a dead zone. So you effectively have a motion dead area that you are trying to push your joystick through before you reach the zone's border where stick input begins to effect your aircraft. As you are attempting small corrections your joystick has been in motion increasing it's traverse speed. So when you traverse into the active input region you over control in that direction and have to bounce your nose back. This is compounded with the rudder if you have too wide of a dead zone.
Scaling over sensativity combined with a dead zone means your initial small motions to smoothly micro correct your nose to adjust your gunsight aim turn into small rapid overshoots of the 1-2 degrees you wanted to change.
Here is an excellent test for these issues. Becasue of the mass of the two heavy guns under the Ju87's wings, on full zoom when you make micro adjustments of the gunsight against a ground target. You can see the lack of smooth micro control and gain insight to how bad your dead band and scaling over sensativity is allowing you to bounce your nose around.
1. - Up the Ju87-G2 offline with 25% fuel and one of your drones set as an M3 on the runway.
2. - Get up to full speed and take a run at the M3 from about 1000ft up and several thousand yards out.
3. - Go to Full Zoom and try to line up your pipper on the target holding it steady there as you close on it. This is where you will see how you make your own nose bounce around during gunnery opposed to the game doing it to you as you try to micro adjust to hold the pipper on the M3.
I use a CH fighterstick and Saitek rudder peddals. I set stick scaling for both. You will have to play a bit with the size of your dead zones versus dampening or sensativity. I have very tiny dead zones and slow intial scaling movements to alleviate the over control on micro movements when shooting.
Something that helps you to gain more control. In the game calibrate the x, y and z axis to your joystick and peddals. Look for your joystick.jsm and rudder peddals.jsm files in the Settings folder. They will be the brand name of your controllers. (chpropedalsusb.jsm)&(chfighterstickusb.jsm) You can edit them in notepad. Open them and find these lines.
CH Fighterstick USB
3,33
X Axis
0,32767,65535,0.050000,0.100000,0.250000
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
Y Axis
0,32767,65535,0.050000,0.100000,0.250000
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
CH PRO PEDALS USB
3,0
Z Axis
0,32767,65535,0.050000,0.100000,0.250000
AXIS,YAW,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
The black high lighted numbers are the end throws for your stick axis and rudder axis. Evenly take a few thousand off each end based on the center being (32767). After you calibrate the two high lighted end numbers may be different than what you see here. Don't worry the center number will stay the same. Start with evenly taking 1000 off each end which is shortening your movement throw slightly so you don't have to slam your stick from side to side to get a full deflection. You will find your micro control in the center will be enhanced.
To shorten the ends by 1000, in notpad just change the end throw numbers.
0,32767,65535
add 1000 on this end -->1000,32767,64535<-- subtract 1000 on this end.
When you do this you will have to tweek your scaling to take advantage of it.
Before you do any of this make backup copies of these files. They also hold your mapped button definitions and scaling info. You can completly delete these files and the game will generate new ones with no mappings or definitions in them.