Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: Changeup on December 21, 2012, 12:07:37 PM
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Powered USB hub or adding a USB 3.0 card with 4 ports on the MB?
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I would go with BOTH ..
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I would go with BOTH ..
The powered hub is giving my stick and pedals spiking....
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Heya ChangeUp,
I have used CH gear since '95 and ever since I went USB type, I have never had to use an external USB powered hub or otherwise...
I have posted on here many years ago regarding not all MotherBoards Manufacturers are the same when it comes to the component quality and how they delegate the power draw, etc... this is one reason I have always been partial to using higher end ASUS MBs..... I never have experienced the power/spiking issues that
alot of others constantly post about....
then again, most will have 6 to 10 USB pheripals plugged in and splitted off of etc of just 2 or 3 root hubs that Windows recognizes ( hope I posted that correctly )
so it results in not having enough power for all the extra USB items they are using.... like printers, lan connection, etc...
I do not see where using a USB 3.0 port will be of benefit any more than using a 2.0 USB port .... both still have the same 5 volt draw if I am not mistaken
powered USB hubs are a 50/50 ordeal....
wish you the best of luck in finding a cure
TC ( yes I know I didnt use spellcheck )
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Heya ChangeUp,
I have used CH gear since '95 and ever since I went USB type, I have never had to use an external USB powered hub or otherwise...
I have posted on here many years ago regarding not all MotherBoards Manufacturers are the same when it comes to the component quality and how they delegate the power draw, etc... this is one reason I have always been partial to using higher end ASUS MBs..... I never have experienced the power/spiking issues that
alot of others constantly post about....
then again, most will have 6 to 10 USB pheripals plugged in and splitted off of etc of just 2 or 3 root hubs that Windows recognizes ( hope I posted that correctly )
so it results in not having enough power for all the extra USB items they are using.... like printers, lan connection, etc...
I do not see where using a USB 3.0 port will be of benefit any more than using a 2.0 USB port .... both still have the same 5 volt draw if I am not mistaken
powered USB hubs are a 50/50 ordeal....
wish you the best of luck in finding a cure
TC ( yes I know I didnt use spellcheck )
TC,
I've got a Sabertooth X58. The 3.0 is just what I happened to pick up not for speed. So which would you prefer?
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Hey Changeup, They both should work the same regarding your ch gear... I understand your reasoning
for wanting the 3.0 for increased data transfer speed...
That x58 board should provide you ample power for your ch setup, depending
on what other USB powered products you might be using
Hope this helps, Bro!
TC
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Hey Changeup, They both should work the same regarding your ch gear... I understand your reasoning
for wanting the 3.0 for increased data transfer speed...
That x58 board should provide you ample power for your ch setup, depending
on what other USB powered products you might be using
Hope this helps, Bro!
TC
The stick and the rudder pedals are the components that are "flickering" in the calibration area. The throttle is fine. I'm going to isolate each one by plugging them into the computer directly. I suppose it could be the CH stuff. I'll go ahead and install the 4 X 3.0....just cuz I need a computer-fixing fix.
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Do you have the CH software installed? When I switched to a CH stick and pedals I had a lot of spiking until I installed the CH software. Once I calibrated the pedals and stick in the CH manager and then in the game the problem went away.
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Do you have the CH software installed? When I switched to a CH stick and pedals I had a lot of spiking until I installed the CH software. Once I calibrated the pedals and stick in the CH manager and then in the game the problem went away.
I had it installed but I removed it. I'm right in the middle of testing everything now.
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The problem with CH gear is that they need 5volts through the USB port to work properly. If the USB ports on your motherboard output a steady 5volts then there should be no issues connecting your CH USB gear directly through the USB ports on your motherboard. If the USB ports on the motherboard aren't outputting the 5volts needed by the CH gear than it is recommended that you use a powered USB hub to ensure the CH gear gets the necessary power.
On my previous system, I had an ASRock motherboard that didn't output a steady 5 volts, so I had issue like spiking controllers around center and frequest loss of calibration or even Windows not seeing my controllers so I had to use a powered USB hub to get my controllers working properly. When I got my new system, it has an ASUS motherboard with a steady 5volt output for the USB ports and I'm able to use the ports on my computer for my CH controllers without any problems as my CH gear gets the necessary power, unlike with my old ASRock motherboard.
ack-ack
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If you are using Windows 7 I suggest you use the powered hub either with or without the card.
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Ok, it was miserable tonight. I removed the POS powered USB hub and plugged straight into the MB on three ports. I also removed the CH manager software. The calibration numbers NEVER settled down all night. I had to recalibrate twice and it never settled. I calibrated in Windows first and that is a mess with CH gear. The damn Microsoft stuff doesn't recognize each of the CH components for what they do because it wanted me to center my throttle? Ok.
So then I installed the USB card and when it loaded the drivers the system ran beyond slow. I had no idea a small board like that would dominate resources so THAT got jerked out too. This sucks. I've got plenty of power, 850W 80 Gold
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I have a Belkin 7 port powered hub with a full CH USB setup. It has been rock solid for at least the past 4 years. I use the CH Manager software with lots of buttons programmed. Always solid performance.
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Its not your gear. It is probably the settings you have under power management. I will have to look at it in more detail to sort it out. By the time I do someone else will probably have the solution posted.
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Ok, it was miserable tonight. I removed the POS powered USB hub and plugged straight into the MB on three ports. I also removed the CH manager software. The calibration numbers NEVER settled down all night. I had to recalibrate twice and it never settled. I calibrated in Windows first and that is a mess with CH gear. The damn Microsoft stuff doesn't recognize each of the CH components for what they do because it wanted me to center my throttle? Ok.
So then I installed the USB card and when it loaded the drivers the system ran beyond slow. I had no idea a small board like that would dominate resources so THAT got jerked out too. This sucks. I've got plenty of power, 850W 80 Gold
Having all the power in the world isn't going to do you any good if it doesn't get through your MB to the CH gear you have plugged in. I have had the same Belkin 4 port ( they don't even offer it any more) for many years. I haven't calibrated my CH gear in years and haven't had any issues with spiking.
As AK-AK always says, YMMV
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Its not your gear. It is probably the settings you have under power management. I will have to look at it in more detail to sort it out. By the time I do someone else will probably have the solution posted.
Bios or Windows?
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You want the USB ports to always have 5v either way. Setup Windows for performance over energy conservation.
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You want the USB ports to always have 5v either way. Setup Windows for performance over energy conservation.
Device manager says, when they're all plugged into the MB, that they are getting 32mA. I thought for 5V, 100mA was necessary. Is that wrong? The keyboard and mouse that I have wirelessly are using 100mA. How in the hell do I even check how much power is really available at the USB ports????
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CH draws 32ma and the devices are USB 1.01.
Saitek draws 100ma and devices are USB 2.0.
USBDView.exe will show you all of this.
http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/USBDeview.shtml
Voltage and amperage are not synonymous. Many IC chips use 5V, 3V, 1.5, 1.3, 1.2 and so forth. And a vast range of milli amperage draw. If you are worried, open your joystick and research the chip for it's min\max volt\amp specs. I forget if there is a power filter on the jopystick board to protect the chip. It will have specs you can research.
Here is a great tool to look at all the raw output of all HID controllers on your PC.
DIView.exe
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=12
You can also convert some old gameport joystick\pedals to USB with his BUO386 contoller chips.
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I have a Belkin 7 port powered hub with a full CH USB setup. It has been rock solid for at least the past 4 years. I use the CH Manager software with lots of buttons programmed. Always solid performance.
I have the same powered hub, a CH fighter stick, CH pedals and a homemade throttle, a USB headset and no CH Manager software and I think I have had to re-calibrate once in three years. I play AH on an Apple Laptop.
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I have the same powered hub, a CH fighter stick, CH pedals and a homemade throttle, a USB headset and no CH Manager software and I think I have had to re-calibrate once in three years. I play AH on an Apple Laptop.
I think I'll fire the hub back up after I check the voltages...it flew better with it. It will be interesting to see what the voltages are though. Thanks fellas.
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Thanks fellas...hooked up a new powered USB hub, removed CH manager, calibrated properly in Windows and pow! New, smooth flying. Hell, its so different, some of the a/c respond differently than how I've been flying them. That old hub must have been shot to hell.
Thanks guys.