Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: 1sum41 on January 03, 2013, 04:37:52 PM
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I'm tearing down a Chevy 350 off of a 1500 silverado 1999. Does anyone have any tips/tricks or advice?
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What color is the pickup?
Really, that was rather vague, lol tips on what? how to? Where to? What to do? What are you doing?
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Go Here http://www.chevytalk.org
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What color is the pickup?
Really, that was rather vague, lol tips on what? how to? Where to? What to do? What are you doing?
lol I guess it was. I'm replacing the head gasket. Trying to figure out the best quickest way to do this.
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That's a long way from tearing the engine down man. Anyway, if ya haven't ever replaced a head gasket or two in the past, I'd suggest you first get a Chiltons manual and a buddy or two to help you. I believe that year still has the iron heads but it wouldn't hurt to spend a few more bucks and get head bolts with the gasket kit. Get the head gasket kit, not just the head gaskets. It'll come with intake, thermostat, valve cover...all the gaskets you'll need for the job. I like Felpro myself.
Also you'll want to check if the heads are warped or possibly cracked, just to be on the safe side. Doubtful on iron heads but still possible. It would suck to get it all back together just to find out they still leak. Keep everything clean and don't leave a wrench in between the block and intake. :lol I have a bad habit of laying my tools in the valley pan on Ford engines. Doing a rebuild one time and drinking beer as I was doing it. Couldn't find a wrench, took the intake back off and there it was. :rolleyes:
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I'm tearing down a Chevy 350 off of a 1500 silverado 1999. Does anyone have any tips/tricks or advice?
why are you tearing it down? did something break? burning oil? what are your intentions upon rebuiling? stock? faster than stock?
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That's a long way from tearing the engine down man. Anyway, if ya haven't ever replaced a head gasket or two in the past, I'd suggest you first get a Chiltons manual and a buddy or two to help you. I believe that year still has the iron heads but it wouldn't hurt to spend a few more bucks and get head bolts with the gasket kit. Get the head gasket kit, not just the head gaskets. It'll come with intake, thermostat, valve cover...all the gaskets you'll need for the job. I like Felpro myself.
Also you'll want to check if the heads are warped or possibly cracked, just to be on the safe side. Doubtful on iron heads but still possible. It would suck to get it all back together just to find out they still leak. Keep everything clean and don't leave a wrench in between the block and intake. :lol I have a bad habit of laying my tools in the valley pan on Ford engines. Doing a rebuild one time and drinking beer as I was doing it. Couldn't find a wrench, took the intake back off and there it was. :rolleyes:
what he said. felpro is the absolute best in gaskets. stay the eff away from victor reinz gaskets. to say they suck is insulting sucky products. if you've got the head off, NEVER put it back on without having it pressure checked at your local machine shop. that shouldn't run ya more than about $150.
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also......need the 8th digit of the VIN. if it's a 99 silverado, you don't have a 350, unless it came outta something else...according to my info system, you've got a 4.3 v6, 4.8 v8, or a 5.3 v8
looking at the procedure right now. you don't have the option with the head bolts......it specifies to replace them.....
Cylinder Head Bolts (First Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence)
30 [n-m]
22 lb ft
Cylinder Head Bolts (Second Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence)
90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence-Excluding the Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head)
90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass M11 Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head in Sequence)
50 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (M8 Inner Bolts in Sequence)
30 [n-m]
22 lb ft
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tips:
Get everything you think you will need and setup your workspace first.
Keep it clean ..especially when the motor is opened.
(ie: not a good idea to do it in a driveway with dust blowin around)
Have the Chilton's manual right there on the workbench to refer to.. open to the page with torque/sequence specs.
Better to take your time and do it right the first time than rush and have to do it over.
Take pictures .. before you start, during, and after.
They do better than memory showing what goes where.
If you aren't sure, have a friend that is help.
-Frank aka GE (just a few right off the top of my head ...where the hair is thin from alla ideas that have come from there :)
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also......need the 8th digit of the VIN. if it's a 99 silverado, you don't have a 350, unless it came outta something else...according to my info system, you've got a 4.3 v6, 4.8 v8, or a 5.3 v8
looking at the procedure right now. you don't have the option with the head bolts......it specifies to replace them.....
Cylinder Head Bolts (First Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence)
30 [n-m]
22 lb ft
Cylinder Head Bolts (Second Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence)
90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence-Excluding the Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head)
90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass M11 Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head in Sequence)
50 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (M8 Inner Bolts in Sequence)
30 [n-m]
22 lb ft
8th digit is an r?
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i was wrong. it is a 5.7 liter. it doesn't show that engine option under silverado though, but rather just c-1500
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it looks like i got pretty much on that. i can get ya the tightening specs and whatnot. these look like they're "torque to yield" bolts, so they should be replaced as mentioned previously.
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Thanks for all the help guys! :salute
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I'll second the suggestion of Fel-Pro gaskets. I'll go a step further, and suggest better than cheap replacement head bolts, and replacing both head gaskets if you intend to keep the truck. I'd not only check the heads for cracks, I'd have them surfaced, and at least have the valve stem seals replaced. I also suggest Permatex hi temp O2 safe RTV silicone. You cannot get parts too clean, gasket surfaces need to be clean and perfect. Torque the heads to 25, 50, and then 75, with oil under the heads of the bolts, Teflon sealer on the threads, and use a real torque wrench, not one of those cheap "wonder wands" they rent at the cheap parts house.
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I'll second the suggestion of Fel-Pro gaskets. I'll go a step further, and suggest better than cheap replacement head bolts, and replacing both head gaskets if you intend to keep the truck. I'd not only check the heads for cracks, I'd have them surfaced, and at least have the valve stem seals replaced. I also suggest Permatex hi temp O2 safe RTV silicone. You cannot get parts too clean, gasket surfaces need to be clean and perfect. Torque the heads to 25, 50, and then 75, with oil under the heads of the bolts, Teflon sealer on the threads, and use a real torque wrench, not one of those cheap "wonder wands" they rent at the cheap parts house.
Allright, and I have a decent torque wrench. thanks!
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I'll second the suggestion of Fel-Pro gaskets. I'll go a step further, and suggest better than cheap replacement head bolts, and replacing both head gaskets if you intend to keep the truck. I'd not only check the heads for cracks, I'd have them surfaced, and at least have the valve stem seals replaced. I also suggest Permatex hi temp O2 safe RTV silicone. You cannot get parts too clean, gasket surfaces need to be clean and perfect. Torque the heads to 25, 50, and then 75, with oil under the heads of the bolts, Teflon sealer on the threads, and use a real torque wrench, not one of those cheap "wonder wands" they rent at the cheap parts house.
heheheh.....i still have one of those "wonder wrenches" out in my garage, from about 30 years ago. at the shop, i just bought a new clicker. couldn't afford the digital one i wanted.......
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also......need the 8th digit of the VIN. if it's a 99 silverado, you don't have a 350, unless it came outta something else...according to my info system, you've got a 4.3 v6, 4.8 v8, or a 5.3 v8
looking at the procedure right now. you don't have the option with the head bolts......it specifies to replace them.....
Cylinder Head Bolts (First Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence)
30 [n-m]
22 lb ft
Cylinder Head Bolts (Second Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence)
90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence-Excluding the Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head)
90 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (Final Pass M11 Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head in Sequence)
50 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolts (M8 Inner Bolts in Sequence)
30 [n-m]
22 lb ft
They made the C/K's in 99 and it would have the VIN R motor.
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yep. got it. :aok
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heheheh.....i still have one of those "wonder wrenches" out in my garage, from about 30 years ago. at the shop, i just bought a new clicker. couldn't afford the digital one i wanted.......
I have a couple of Snap On dial types (2% certified) and a click type Snap On (with the knob on the side, not a twist handle, 2% certified) that I've had for years. Neither has ever tested outside the tolerances. I'm not big on the digital torque wrenches, but I suppose they're okay, the ones with an alarm can be used on flat rate work like a click type.
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I have a couple of Snap On dial types (2% certified) and a click type Snap On (with the knob on the side, not a twist handle, 2% certified) that I've had for years. Neither has ever tested outside the tolerances. I'm not big on the digital torque wrenches, but I suppose they're okay, the ones with an alarm can be used on flat rate work like a click type.
a guy i used to work for had a snap on digital. it always seemed accurate. i don't know what tolerances he'd had it tested to though. i hated digging into his tools though, so i generally used my matco clicker. the first time i'd used his, i forget what i was working on, but mine clicked as if i'd reached the torque it was set to.....but it didn't "feel" right. as if i wasn't pulling with enough force. so i got his out, and sure enough, mine was going off too soon.
i sent it out, to get repaired. that was 10 years ago. it just started that crap again about 6 months ago, so i just bought a new one this time.