Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: colmbo on January 03, 2013, 06:56:32 PM
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I've owned CH gear a long time, have twice sent the stick back to them for repair. When I recently contacted them about getting parts to again repair the hatswitch (the only issue I've had is the 8-way going bad) I got this reply:
I am sorry but we no longer sell piece parts, and we only repair the joysticks if they are under the 2 year warranty.
I did find a source for CH Products parts but they don't sell the 8-way hat --- the one part that is the most un-reliable.
It's too bad, their gear is pricey but the cost could be justified by the quality and the customer service.
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sad if this holds true over time. I hope CH doesn't try to go cheap Chinese import route for there home use joysticks. I am a huge CH proponent and this smacks of the kind of crap the other cheaper manufactures pull.
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IMO - CH Products has chosen to abandon the consumer market to focus on the industrial market.
Regarding their Customer Service: I've had two yokes, two pedals sets, and seven sticks from CH.
I can't even get them to respond to my inquiries.
It's a shame. I haven't found a comparable price/quality stick manufacturer.
For $30, Logitech makes an OK stick that'll last about a year. Everything else is either trash for cheap or overkill for a lot of money.
M2c
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I've owned CH gear a long time, have twice sent the stick back to them for repair. When I recently contacted them about getting parts to again repair the hatswitch (the only issue I've had is the 8-way going bad) I got this reply:
I did find a source for CH Products parts but they don't sell the 8-way hat --- the one part that is the most un-reliable.
It's too bad, their gear is pricey but the cost could be justified by the quality and the customer service.
Sad to hear. When I was the senior PC tech at CH many years ago, it was the complete opposite and prided ourselves in the support we gave. Ever since the owner (Chuck Hayes) sold CH to a French industrial company, they stopped selling parts and started the policy of only repairing sticks under warrenty. It's no longer the private family owned company I enjoyed working for.
ack-ack
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Well this sucks. Just so happens my 8-way hat is starting to act up too. I wonder if the ones on the gameport version stick have the same switch? If so I can canibalize my old one.
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Well this sucks. Just so happens my 8-way hat is starting to act up too. I wonder if the ones on the gameport version stick have the same switch? If so I can canibalize my old one.
I believe they are the same.
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Well this sucks. Just so happens my 8-way hat is starting to act up too. I wonder if the ones on the gameport version stick have the same switch? If so I can canibalize my old one.
Yes, you can use a hatswitch from the old game port versions on a USB version.
ack-ack
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Yes they are the same are are easy to swap out. I saved my old analog stick for just that reason. I'm sure you can pick up old analog CH sticks on Ebay cheap and use the part.
I seem to remember the guy who built the frankenstien stick might have found an outlet that sold the switches, but I'm not sure.
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Thanks guys. I have at least one in the attic for just such an emergency. And I'll have to check the CH Hangar Fugi. Haven't looked at that in a while.
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For $30, Logitech makes an OK stick that'll last about a year. Everything else is either trash for cheap or overkill for a lot of money.
M2c
Thrustmaster T16000 :old:
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Thrustmaster T16000 :old:
yupp
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I've owned CH gear a long time, have twice sent the stick back to them for repair. When I recently contacted them about getting parts to again repair the hatswitch (the only issue I've had is the 8-way going bad) I got this reply:
I did find a source for CH Products parts but they don't sell the 8-way hat --- the one part that is the most un-reliable.
It's too bad, their gear is pricey but the cost could be justified by the quality and the customer service.
PM me. I have an old Fighterstick sitting in the garage.
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I know how you feel colmbo, i've had mine for around 8 years and is starting to spike in the elevator axis and my hat switch is a bit temperamental at times.
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Sad to hear. When I was the senior PC tech at CH many years ago, it was the complete opposite and prided ourselves in the support we gave. Ever since the owner (Chuck Hayes) sold CH to a French industrial company, they stopped selling parts and started the policy of only repairing sticks under warrenty. It's no longer the private family owned company I enjoyed working for.
ack-ack
Man that sucks. Just got my new ch setup a couple months ago so i guess i got about 2 years of good times left. After that it is gonna be hard to repurchase any ch stuff if this is the trend. Thrustmaster must be on cloud 9. Anybody remember the company that makes all kinds of simpit gear. I seem to remember a top of the line stick and throttle setup they offered. Think it was based on f16 as well.
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Does Thrustmaster have a joystick comparable to the fighterstick, at that price point? If not, it sounds like they should start. When I was looking for a stick, I wanted something more durable and usefull than the ~$50 sticks, but didn't want to shell out $300-400 for the really nice sticks. CH's fighterstick seemed to be the only one in that ~$100 price range, and a good balance between the cheap sticks, and the uber sticks.
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Keep in mind that the 8 way hat switch (at least on the fighter stick) is soldered to a circuit board along with the 4 other switches on the face of the stick. They can not be simply swapped out. You need to be pretty good with a soldering iron to take them off the board. I tried this last year....ended up buying a new stick. I figured it was time. The one I replaced was bought used on ebay in 2004 and lasted 8 years after that without any issues. I figure I can get at least another 8 out of my new one.
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That's too bad. I had, only a few months ago, filled out a form and bought replacement parts for my combat stick. New pots for roll and Pitch were $10.00 each. I have it working like new in an hour. To think now I will have to buy a new $100.00 stick is upsetting.
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The Rig I built, had a few flaws, one which is the AUDIO jack in the front - its simply a panel that broke off where the screw is, I called customer care and they overnight shipped me a replacement.
Same for CH Pro Pedals, something came lose and they stopped working, Shipped back on December 3rd got new ones December 8th.
No questions were asked, they were polite and such... guess it goes both ways :\
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Think I've got two old ch fightersticks that no longer work sitting around, but individual parts on them are probably still good... There're both old analog, not USB but don't think that matters for hat switches or the like... Anyone might need something shoot me a pm.
What sad news about CH... My first stick lasted 11 years, pedals never wore out. They had the best customer service. Anytime I needed parts like a pot they shipped it in a couple days. Damn unfortunate.
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If you're a hard-core rig-it-till-it-goes-tits-north type of do-it-yourselfer (I hulk smashed my broken piston in my desk chair and then hammered a spike through it to fuse it in place hehe)
Check this out:
http://snomhf.exofire.net/hatRepair.html
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Keep in mind that the 8 way hat switch (at least on the fighter stick) is soldered to a circuit board along with the 4 other switches on the face of the stick. They can not be simply swapped out. You need to be pretty good with a soldering iron to take them off the board. I tried this last year....ended up buying a new stick. I figured it was time. The one I replaced was bought used on ebay in 2004 and lasted 8 years after that without any issues. I figure I can get at least another 8 out of my new one.
I replaced one of the switches on my hat. It wasn't that tough, took about 20 minutes from unplugging it to flying again. The analog switches work fine. 4 way and 8 way hat switches are the same, just a different actuator.
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I replaced one of the switches on my hat. It wasn't that tough, took about 20 minutes from unplugging it to flying again. The analog switches work fine. 4 way and 8 way hat switches are the same, just a different actuator.
Thats really strange because when I opened mine up, each switch was soldered to a circuit board, and then the board was hooked up to a wire harness. I didnt see an easy way to get the switches off without de-soldering them.
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Thats really strange because when I opened mine up, each switch was soldered to a circuit board, and then the board was hooked up to a wire harness. I didnt see an easy way to get the switches off without de-soldering them.
Yes you do have to de-solder them, but you can do the one button that is giving you trouble. Soldering isn't that tough to do.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/hatRepair/hatInterior.jpg)
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Yeah I'm thinking it's gonna be this little project with mine or break down and go TrackIR for views. It's my 6 view that's starting to go of course. I really have to plant my thumb back to get it and that's getting on my nerves.
But I have a soldering iron and a solder sucker and know how to use them. Problem is acquiring the parts. The bastiges.
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Yes you do have to de-solder them, but you can do the one button that is giving you trouble. Soldering isn't that tough to do.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/hatRepair/hatInterior.jpg)
Ok i see what you mean. Thanks for the diagram! I have done a little soldering a long time ago. I used to solder mod chips on to playstation 1's haha. I just didn't look at this closely. I was under the false assumption that I had to take the whole hat switch off, but its really just the one switch. :salute :cheers:
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get track IR :)
I only use 8 hat switch for switching bomber positions :old:
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Well i've finally had enough of mine and bought a replacement online. It had a long run but i've become frustrated with the spiking and being unable to ride stall that i rage quit and bought a new one.
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Sad to hear. When I was the senior PC tech at CH many years ago, it was the complete opposite and prided ourselves in the support we gave. Ever since the owner (Chuck Hayes) sold CH to a French industrial company, they stopped selling parts and started the policy of only repairing sticks under warrenty. It's no longer the private family owned company I enjoyed working for.
ack-ack
I remember it quite well when you were the head Tech at CH. All I had to do was mention it online back in AirWarrior about springs and potentiometer and you had them sent to me free. I think I got them within the week. It was for the old analog setup, oh and that blasted cable too that connected the keyboard to the sticks. I sure missed it when you left CH. The company I work for was family owned since the early 1900's and sold out about 8 years ago to an investment consortium and it's been hell since! You can't get anything fixed and no spare parts on hand. Nothing beats the pride that the private family owned company instilled
All the Best...
Jay
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I've owned CH gear a long time, have twice sent the stick back to them for repair. When I recently contacted them about getting parts to again repair the hatswitch (the only issue I've had is the 8-way going bad) I got this reply:
I did find a source for CH Products parts but they don't sell the 8-way hat --- the one part that is the most un-reliable.
It's too bad, their gear is pricey but the cost could be justified by the quality and the customer service.
:airplane: Hey Columbo, you might want to consider the "Bortas Warthog" stick. I don't have one yet, but serveral of my squad mates have one and they all rant about the flying quailities of this stick. Most are using the CH rudder pedals with it. It has a "split" throttle quadrant which works really great in the P-38, which I see you flying. I fly the X-52 right now and like it, but, but, its so sloppy in the different axis, its really not very good for a fighter stick.
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get track IR :)
I only use 8 hat switch for switching bomber positions :old:
^this^
The hat switches on my CH CombatStick are worthless. I never learned to use them, I actullay set them to do nothing because I was accidentally hitting them and was never sure what they were mapped to.
That being said, I have had other buttons quit working, and now have 3 spare sticks (2 usb and 1 analog) that I bought used on ebay.. all of thm work fine (except the analog one, I've already cannibalized 2 buttons from it) and I think the most I paid was $20 for one of the usb ones. ebay rocks and used is just fine with me. :aok
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I remember it quite well when you were the head Tech at CH. All I had to do was mention it online back in AirWarrior about springs and potentiometer and you had them sent to me free. I think I got them within the week. It was for the old analog setup, oh and that blasted cable too that connected the keyboard to the sticks. I sure missed it when you left CH. The company I work for was family owned since the early 1900's and sold out about 8 years ago to an investment consortium and it's been hell since! You can't get anything fixed and no spare parts on hand. Nothing beats the pride that the private family owned company instilled
All the Best...
Jay
"You didn't build that."
(I couldn't help it)
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"You didn't build that."
(I couldn't help it)
Please don't inject meaningless and inaccurate political memes into a discussion about computers. Thank you. :salute
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OK, Here's my revision:
Nothing beats the pride that the private family owned company instilled
Quoted for Truth!~
:salute
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I received my stick this morning and I am less than impressed. There were bits of solder melted and stuck on the joystick and wire, the base isn't level and wobbles when i move the stick and worst of all it spikes in the elevator axis (albeit less than my previous 8 yr old stick) when pulling back on the stick (but not when i push forward). This is unacceptable for a stick that cost me £120 and shall be mailed back for a replacement. I am very cross with the poor quality i received for what i paid for. :mad:
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I received my stick this morning and I am less than impressed. There were bits of solder melted and stuck on the joystick and wire, the base isn't level and wobbles when i move the stick and worst of all it spikes in the elevator axis (albeit less than my previous 8 yr old stick) when pulling back on the stick (but not when i push forward). This is unacceptable for a stick that cost me £120 and shall be mailed back for a replacement. I am very cross with the poor quality i received for what i paid for. :mad:
Pop open the base and make sure the wires from the pots are firmly connected to the contacts and the contacts are clean. Also make sure the pots are seated firmly and positioned correctly in their slots.
ack-ack
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I would ack-ack but i don't want to void the warranty if that does not cure the problem. The base rocks when i move the stick too which is another thing i need to sort out, that in addition to the solder found in places on the stick it feels like not much care went into making this particular stick. I've emailed the store i and current;y waiting on a response so i can have a replacement sent to me.
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I would ack-ack but i don't want to void the warranty if that does not cure the problem. The base rocks when i move the stick too which is another thing i need to sort out, that in addition to the solder found in places on the stick it feels like not much care went into making this particular stick. I've emailed the store i and current;y waiting on a response so i can have a replacement sent to me.
are all the little rubber feet on the base, or is one missing?
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All the rubber feet are there, but one is doesn't protrude as much as the other 3
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All the rubber feet are there, but one is doesn't protrude as much as the other 3
send it back. :aok
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All the rubber feet are there, but one is doesn't protrude as much as the other 3
Explains the rocky base. Those three protruding screws aren't screwed in all the way.
ack-ack
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God forbid I read the manual but I haven't, asumming they gave me one <Shrug> so what do the LED lights indicate on The [CH FS and CH PT]........I am talkng the Green, Amber, Red LEDs.
HL
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CH is now officially on my 'EFF OFF!' list....now I have to decide between a Thrustmaster and some sort of Saitek
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God forbid I read the manual but I haven't, asumming they gave me one <Shrug> so what do the LED lights indicate on The [CH FS and CH PT]........I am talkng the Green, Amber, Red LEDs.
HL
If I remember right they are program modes just like AH uses. You can switch to Mode two (red) to have another whole set of switches programmed let a GV set-up, and then switch to yellow for a 3rd as bomber set-up.
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God forbid I read the manual but I haven't, asumming they gave me one <Shrug> so what do the LED lights indicate on The [CH FS and CH PT]........I am talkng the Green, Amber, Red LEDs.
HL
It's just to let you know what mode it's in.
Green = Mode 1
Red = Mode 2
Yellow = Mode 3
You can switch between modes (at least on the Pro Throttle) by pressing in on the mini-stick.
ack-ack
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CH is now officially on my 'EFF OFF!' list....now I have to decide between a Thrustmaster and some sort of Saitek
I wouldn't write it off CH just yet, i think i have just been extremely unlucky with this stick, my previous CH stick was flawless. I'll keep you updated when i get the replacemet.
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I wouldn't write it off CH just yet, i think i have just been extremely unlucky with this stick, my previous CH stick was flawless. I'll keep you updated when i get the replacemet.
I'm sure a new one will work fine for two years or better---this is principle...they refuse to sell me parts to fix my not-inexpensive stick, and they refuse to service it as well.
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It is a massive shame that their policy and attitude has changed, i can see why you shall not be buying CH. This is a niche market and i believe not in their interests to treat customers this way. A lot of people would rather buy cheaper sticks that can be replaced every couple of years, which is understable. I think i went through 3 MS sidewinders in my younger day.
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It is a massive shame that their policy and attitude has changed, i can see why you shall not be buying CH. This is a niche market and i believe not in their interests to treat customers this way. A lot of people would rather buy cheaper sticks that can be replaced every couple of years, which is understable. I think i went through 3 MS sidewinders in my younger day.
My Sidewinder just quit working yesterday :( I've had it for almost 1,5 decades and I thought it would never break.
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My Sidewinder just quit working yesterday :( I've had it for almost 1,5 decades and I thought it would never break.
Did it just stop responding?
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Did it just stop responding?
I was playing last night and roped someone in my P47D-40. I was a bit bored so I used extensive rudder while hammerheading to try to keep the ball leveled as long as possible. To my surprise the controls just stoped responding - at first I thought I got the 'dont move controls so rapidly' thingy but no - the stick just refused to work. I tried recalibrating, rebooting the computer and whatnot, the potentiometer of the twisty stick stoped working and the optical 'pots' of the sidewinder PP I just fail to read correctly. They show no readings in 80% of the area and jump to extremes in a few places.
I'm afraid that I have some cut cable or broken control board.
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Found the problem. The small board that houses the LEDs for the optoelectronics had a broken wire. Resoldered it, reassembled and voila full functionality again! :banana:
I found a cool easter egg in the bottom of the joystick, looks like the makers took pride in their work:
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/9220/img0394z.png)
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Which model is it MrRiplEy? I don't recognise the baseplate. Can you post a picture of the assembled joystick.
Congratulations on fixing it, I'm not surprised they signed it, both models of Sidewinder I have are fantastic pieces of design and engineering.
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Which model is it MrRiplEy? I don't recognise the baseplate. Can you post a picture of the assembled joystick.
Congratulations on fixing it, I'm not surprised they signed it, both models of Sidewinder I have are fantastic pieces of design and engineering.
It's a regular Precision Pro I
(http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8230/img0396.png)
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It's a regular Precision Pro I
(http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8230/img0396.png)
Great! Keep it going :banana:
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I used to have one of those! :rock
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I'm sure a new one will work fine for two years or better---this is principle...they refuse to sell me parts to fix my not-inexpensive stick, and they refuse to service it as well.
update! CH is back on my Christmas list
Hi xxxx,
I spoke with my manager and I was able to get approval to set you a hat switch. They are $5 each, and we can postal mail them.
Sincerely,
Jon Soucy
Inside Sales Representative
CH PRODUCTS
970 Park Center Drive
Vista, CA 92081
Ph#: 760-598-2518
Fax#: 760-598-2524
Email: jsoucy@chproducts.com
http://www.chproducts.com
From: xxxx [mailtoxxxxxx@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 10:31 PM
To: Jon Soucy
Subject: Re: repair
You're killin me.....I can't buy a hat switch?
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Jon Soucy <jsoucy@chproducts.com> wrote:
Hi xxxx,
I am sorry but we no longer repair our products unless they are under the 2 year warranty. I am very sorry for any inconvenience this causes.
Sincerely,
Jon Soucy
Inside Sales Representative
CH PRODUCTS
970 Park Center Drive
Vista, CA 92081
Ph#: 760-598-2518
Fax#: 760-598-2524
Email: jsoucy@chproducts.com
http://www.chproducts.com
From:xxxxx [mailto:xxxxxx@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 12:50 PM
To: Level Two
Subject: repair
Have an older Combatstick, 8-way Hat going. Do I need an rma first or something before I send it in?
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You might want to have them send you three or four hat switches.