Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: pembquist on May 15, 2013, 07:37:04 PM
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It is decision time, my 86 ford ranger 4x4 is on the bubble. It's been taking up space in the garage for a year and I have to decide what to do in order to maintain domestic tranquility. Something bad happened to the motor, 2.3 FI. Could be just a head gasket could be worse. No compression in the two center cylinders, they act like they are connected if I recall. Was going to do a leak down test but the truck got buried with crap so I have to un bury it. In the mean time I thought I'd ask for advice. The thing is if I don't just sell this thing, if I'm going to take the head off I feel like for the effort I might as well take out the whole motor. The last time I had this kind of problem back in 1989,(different truck,) I first got a junkyard motor which burned oil so I took it back and then rebuilt the original. It was the only time I rebuilt an engine and what I discovered was I was paying a pretty big percentage of what a rebuilt motor from a mass rebuilder would cost so that I could use plastigauge and I guess know that the parts were good. My question would be does anybody know a good ranger forum? How new a used engine would fit? Are any of the mass rebuilders any good? It was a work truck so it's nothing fancy but it,s grown on me to the point that I hesitate to have it towed off to the smelter.
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All your questions can be answered here:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php
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Ok...keep in mind that I'm a race car guy: if it was mine and the body is in good shape, I'd 302 it with a carb. Many of those out there in good shape. On the other hand, if you just want to do a 2.3 replacement used wise LKQ, I believe they offer a small warranty on the part. Also you could try Autozone/Advanced for a crate 2.3L for about 1500.00 with a 3yr warranty for the long block.
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It is decision time, my 86 ford ranger 4x4 is on the bubble. It's been taking up space in the garage for a year and I have to decide what to do in order to maintain domestic tranquility. Something bad happened to the motor, 2.3 FI. Could be just a head gasket could be worse. No compression in the two center cylinders, they act like they are connected if I recall. Was going to do a leak down test but the truck got buried with crap so I have to un bury it. In the mean time I thought I'd ask for advice. The thing is if I don't just sell this thing, if I'm going to take the head off I feel like for the effort I might as well take out the whole motor. The last time I had this kind of problem back in 1989,(different truck,) I first got a junkyard motor which burned oil so I took it back and then rebuilt the original. It was the only time I rebuilt an engine and what I discovered was I was paying a pretty big percentage of what a rebuilt motor from a mass rebuilder would cost so that I could use plastigauge and I guess know that the parts were good. My question would be does anybody know a good ranger forum? How new a used engine would fit? Are any of the mass rebuilders any good? It was a work truck so it's nothing fancy but it,s grown on me to the point that I hesitate to have it towed off to the smelter.
those 2.3's are great engines. they suck for power, but they're generally very reliable.
what you describe sounds for sure like a blown gasket, or a cracked head. before deciding on anything, pull the rocker cover, and remove the cam followers on the cylinder you want to check the leakdown on. find where the pressure's leaking out. through the crankcase....wasted rings or cracked/broken piston. through the exhaust or intake....something wrong with the respective valve. through the cylinder next to it.......pull the head.
i don't think they went to dual plug in 86, but they did(i think) sometime during the use of EEC4. if so, you can swap in a dual plug 2.3, with the accompanying wiring, and ECU, for a little better mileage, and a little better power.
of course, the other thing that you could do that would be MASSIVE fun......find a wrecked fox body mustang that runs. take the engine, drop it in, and install the v8 EEC4 system. there's only 7(if i recall correctly) wires that you need to tap into the vehicles stock wiring system to make it work. remember...if you put a v8 in there though, you're gonna have to upgrade the tranny, and the diff.
or you could sell it as, 'cause there's probably a kid out there that'd want a 4x4 that he could work on.
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usual sign of a blown head gasket is oil/coolant mixing - check the coolant reservoir for oil on the surface, and the head for mayonnaise. You should see it inside the oil filler cap if its on top of the rocker cover, or remove the rocker cover and it should be everywhere.
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Be best to buy a crate motor and use your old stuff on it . Just have the head's rebuilt and be done with it . What I have done with my last two truck's . Then you will have a bad as motor with 10 overs in it . I would put a 4.0 in it while I was at it but you have to go find some used head's to have rebuilt .
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Be best to buy a crate motor and use your old stuff on it . Just have the head's rebuilt and be done with it . What I have done with my last two truck's . Then you will have a bad as motor with 10 overs in it . I would put a 4.0 in it while I was at it but you have to go find some used head's to have rebuilt .
ya know? i hadn't thought v6 route........it would make a SUPER interesting swap to put a 3.7 liter from a wrecked s197 stang. i think it'd be really tough to work EEC5 into the old wiring though......
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ya know? i hadn't thought v6 route........it would make a SUPER interesting swap to put a 3.7 liter from a wrecked s197 stang. i think it'd be really tough to work EEC5 into the old wiring though......
Yeah I did not think about the wiring ..
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Yeah I did not think about the wiring ..
EEC4 is a "stand alone" system, and can be wired in fairly easily. you need to spend time going through the wiring diagrams is all. it's the EEC5 i'm not sure about.......
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$100 for a gasket set and a coupla hours work vs $1500 for a new engine and a coupla days work ... I know what I'd do.
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Sounds like a blown head gasket. You can have the head gasket blow out between the two center cylinders without getting oil water contamination. You didn't say how many miles are on the truck, or if it's a manual or automatic transmission.
I would pull the head and check the condition of the cylinders, and have the head checked for cracks. Also check the cam for flat lobes and worn followers. If the only issue is a blown head gasket you will still want to replace the timing belt. You should be able to do that yourself for less than $200, Also take into account that even if you do put in a rebuilt engine the rest of the running gear is still twenty seven years old. Normally the next thing to go would be the clutch and/or transmission especially if you put in a fresh engine.
We are talking about a nearly thirty year old work truck that's been sitting for a year already. In running condition the truck isn't worth all that much. Doing a google search I found several runners for $1k or less.
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$100 for a gasket set and a coupla hours work vs $1500 for a new engine and a coupla days work ... I know what I'd do.
You're forgetting about the new seals and bearings that come with the long block.
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I would think taking the valve covers off might be a good start and go from there. Maybe just a case of sticky valves, if lucky. However, the two cylinders acting together could be a bad thing.
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Ok...keep in mind that I'm a race car guy: if it was mine and the body is in good shape, I'd 302 it with a carb. Many of those out there in good shape. On the other hand, if you just want to do a 2.3 replacement used wise LKQ, I believe they offer a small warranty on the part. Also you could try Autozone/Advanced for a crate 2.3L for about 1500.00 with a 3yr warranty for the long block.
LKQ does remans too!!!
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$100 for a gasket set and a coupla hours work vs $1500 for a new engine and a coupla days work ... I know what I'd do.
I read $1500 for an engine and I weep when I know it'll run me $35,000 when I remoter my plane
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I read $1500 for an engine and I weep when I know it'll run me $35,000 when I remoter my plane
Yeah, but you really don't want to go the cheap route when you do your plane.
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Sounds like a blown head gasket. You can have the head gasket blow out between the two center cylinders without getting oil water contamination. You didn't say how many miles are on the truck, or if it's a manual or automatic transmission.
I would pull the head and check the condition of the cylinders, and have the head checked for cracks. Also check the cam for flat lobes and worn followers. If the only issue is a blown head gasket you will still want to replace the timing belt. You should be able to do that yourself for less than $200, Also take into account that even if you do put in a rebuilt engine the rest of the running gear is still twenty seven years old. Normally the next thing to go would be the clutch and/or transmission especially if you put in a fresh engine.
We are talking about a nearly thirty year old work truck that's been sitting for a year already. In running condition the truck isn't worth all that much. Doing a google search I found several runners for $1k or less.
It's got 145k and its a manual. It's got newish synchronizers and new tie rod ends that you can actually grease, new clutch at about 100k, but I tow a trailer with it. In my area used small trucks command a bit of a premium but let's say I could buy the running version for 1200. I'll take the valve cover off and do the leak down. My feeling is that if any of the valve train is badly worn I'll be spending 500. Does this sound right for head rebuilding, gaskets, timing belt?
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a quick wiki shows the 4D55 engine has a timing chain not a belt so I'd imagine it would be fine at 145k, as should the valve train. I dont know that engine but 145k isnt alot for a diesel assuming its been looked after (ie. regular oil changes.) *
Do you guys have Haynes Manuals and is there one for that truck? I wouldnt do much more than changing plugs and filters without one, they are brilliant.
* edit: I thought you had the 2.3 diesel, if its the petrol engine there is a Haynes manual for it - buy one! And if it has a belt, definitely change that too :aok
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a quick wiki shows the 4D55 engine has a timing chain not a belt so I'd imagine it would be fine at 145k, as should the valve train. I dont know that engine but 145k isnt alot for a diesel assuming its been looked after (ie. regular oil changes.) *
Do you guys have Haynes Manuals and is there one for that truck? I wouldnt do much more than changing plugs and filters without one, they are brilliant.
* edit: I thought you had the 2.3 diesel, if its the petrol engine there is a Haynes manual for it - buy one! And if it has a belt, definitely change that too :aok
i'm pretty sure that ford didn't chain any of the 2.3 liters back then. probably the diesel, but i don't recall having ever seen a chained 2.3 gas eninge.
regardless of mileage, if the thing's been setting for THAT long, i'd replace that belt.
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prolly headgasket, im gonna junk a 84 ranger soon, has a okay engine (uses quart oil in between oil change), the tranny pan got a small rust hole and leaked out the fluid. Now only has 4 th gear lol. Oh I think it has reverse to.
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It's got 145k and its a manual. It's got newish synchronizers and new tie rod ends that you can actually grease, new clutch at about 100k, but I tow a trailer with it. In my area used small trucks command a bit of a premium but let's say I could buy the running version for 1200. I'll take the valve cover off and do the leak down. My feeling is that if any of the valve train is badly worn I'll be spending 500. Does this sound right for head rebuilding, gaskets, timing belt?
Pemb I hate to say that you can rebuild the head, gaskets and timing belt for $500, because I don't know what kind of shape it's in, or what your abilities are. I don't mean that in a derogatory way, but not everyone has done a valve job or has the tools to remove and check valve springs etc. A cam and followers will run you around $250 so with head gasket set and timing belt you're pushing $450 right there. If any of the valves are burnt, the guides are worn, or you need to replace any of the valve springs or keepers that will push it over the $500 mark. You might check into a re-man head and see what they run in your area, If you can find one. Best thing to do is go ahead and do your leak down test and go from there.
I did my sisters pinto in the mid eighties and I had to replace the head because it was cracked. She swore it never got hot but it only had idiot lights and she did drive it home. :huh I still have the special head bolt tool that I have never used since. Looks like a giant torx wrench.
Do you guys have Haynes Manuals and is there one for that truck? I wouldnt do much more than changing plugs and filters without one, they are brilliant.
Holmes the diesel version of the ranger is rarer than hens teeth, at least around here, so I'm pretty sure he has the gasoline engine.
Personally I hate the Haynes, and Climbers(sp) manuals. Not sure if they are different on the other side of the pond, but everyone I have ever had always has passages that say something like "this job is beyond the average enthusiasts ability, and should be taken to a qualified service technician." I want to know how it should be done and not that they think I should pay someone to do the job for me. So I stick with Chilton manuals. If you can find them MOTOR, or Mitchell manuals are what the professional shops generally use. I know that MOTOR has combined with ALLDATA and they offer their manuals online, but iirc they are still pretty spendy. Not sure if Mitchell has an online source or if they are even still around. The standard non pro Chilton should cost around $30. You can find them online for less, but after paying shipping it still comes out to about $30.
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Timing belt..
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Timing belt..
Thats a possibilty, without looking up the firing order....I had a 86 ford ranger 2.3 that the timing jumped. I couldn't turn the dist far enough to get TDC on number 1..I junked that one.. well i junked half of it, made a trailer out of the rest of it.
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:D http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/V8Conversions.html :bolt:
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Step 1 get your ratchets out
Step 2 set them to loosen
Step 3 have fun and tear that rascal down.
Serious, why are people so scared about ripping into engines, especially with information available through the net at your fingertips. There are no secrets when it comes to motors, crack it open and take a look.
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Thats a possibilty, without looking up the firing order....I had a 86 ford ranger 2.3 that the timing jumped. I couldn't turn the dist far enough to get TDC on number 1..I junked that one.. well i junked half of it, made a trailer out of the rest of it.
1-4-3-2 or 1-3-4-2
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Step 1 get your ratchets out
Step 2 set them to loosen
Step 3 have fun and tear that rascal down.
Serious, why are people so scared about ripping into engines, especially with information available through the net at your fingertips. There are no secrets when it comes to motors, crack it open and take a look.
Some people don't even know witch way to losing a nut and your talking about tearing into a motor , not mine , lol .
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Step 1 get your ratchets out
Step 2 set them to loosen
Step 3 have fun and tear that rascal down.
Serious, why are people so scared about ripping into engines, especially with information available through the net at your fingertips. There are no secrets when it comes to motors, crack it open and take a look.
try boring a 5.8 liter shelby engine. then tell me there's no secrets. :devil