Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: skorpx1 on September 01, 2013, 05:38:28 PM
-
I'm just gonna jump right to the point here, I want to paint my bass but have no clue how. I'd like for it to be a iridescent blue but I don't know if I can use that kind of paint on a wooden bass and if I can, how exactly should I apply it to the bass? I just want the headstock/body to be painted. I wasn't looking to paint the backside of the neck but I have seen someone do it and it looks kinda cool.
Right now my bass has a really thick black paint on it that almost seems like it was a plastic covering. I don't know if I should sand that off then go over it with a primer then apply the iridescent paint or can I just paint over that? I also have a sticker on it that would most likely be hard to take off without leaving and kind of adhesive residue.
-
Why would you want to paint a fish? :D :bolt:
-
Why would you want to paint a fish? :D :bolt:
I knew that was going to be asked. :bhead
Not the fish, the instrument.
-
I'd rather have a painting of a BigMouth Bass. It'd go good with my turkey and deer paintings. :)
-
I'm just gonna jump right to the point here, I want to paint my bass but have no clue how. I'd like for it to be a iridescent blue but I don't know if I can use that kind of paint on a wooden bass and if I can, how exactly should I apply it to the bass? I just want the headstock/body to be painted. I wasn't looking to paint the backside of the neck but I have seen someone do it and it looks kinda cool.
Right now my bass has a really thick black paint on it that almost seems like it was a plastic covering. I don't know if I should sand that off then go over it with a primer then apply the iridescent paint or can I just paint over that? I also have a sticker on it that would most likely be hard to take off without leaving and kind of adhesive residue.
I'd talk to the local music store where you live and see what they suggest......or go to http://youtu.be/VDEkGXYs0MA
-
I'd talk to the local music store where you live and see what they suggest......or go to YouTube http://youtu.be/-sAFqaCkmro
I asked at the one of two in town but they had no idea. The owner just said he sold the musical stuff and didn't know how to paint instruments. I'm gonna try the other music shop on Friday when I get done with work but I don't know if i'll make it there before they close. If I do it'll be a tight squeeze.
-
(http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac82/mbailey166066/BpoZTOmkKGrHqUH-D0EuZJczEW3BLsOS4rzj_35_zpsc4b04fda.jpg)
:D
-
:lol
Coogan
-
Likely you can scuff the present paint and coat right over it. Test a small zpkt on the back. As to the sticker, use a heat gun on it to warm it up. Works quite well and any little residue will come off with IPA and a soft cloth.
-
(http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac82/mbailey166066/BpoZTOmkKGrHqUH-D0EuZJczEW3BLsOS4rzj_35_zpsc4b04fda.jpg)
:D
:rofl :aok I felt movement.
-
It depends on how you want it to look!
I would prep it much like painting a car,strip it down,tape up any areas you don't want paint on and then sand and prime and sand some more them prime some more then sand,etc. you can get an ok finish with a spray paint can if you know what your doing but I would suggest an airbrush.
As for what type of paint,any kind will work if you prep it right. You could get a nice automotive paint and do a base/clear to get a real nice finish.
It's actually a nice project to learn to paint,small enough that if you mess up just do it all over again.
:salute
-
Stain it
-
I knew that was going to be asked. :bhead
Not the fish, the instrument.
you call your instrument a bass? you dont clean it or something? my ex used to call it paquito.
semp
-
It depends on how you want it to look!
I would prep it much like painting a car,strip it down,tape up any areas you don't want paint on and then sand and prime and sand some more them prime some more then sand,etc. you can get an ok finish with a spray paint can if you know what your doing but I would suggest an airbrush.
As for what type of paint,any kind will work if you prep it right. You could get a nice automotive paint and do a base/clear to get a real nice finish.
It's actually a nice project to learn to paint,small enough that if you mess up just do it all over again.
:salute
perfect except not just any paint will work....don't use water based paint,(it will "work" but not great and some wont work at all) get a good oil based paint....like morf said a good car paint will work perfect.....and is most often the best kind of paint that lasts the longest and will hold up to fading.
and dont chimp out on the sanding :old:
-
Stain it
I'm not staining the wood on my bass. Never in a million years.
It depends on how you want it to look!
I would prep it much like painting a car,strip it down,tape up any areas you don't want paint on and then sand and prime and sand some more them prime some more then sand,etc. you can get an ok finish with a spray paint can if you know what your doing but I would suggest an airbrush.
As for what type of paint,any kind will work if you prep it right. You could get a nice automotive paint and do a base/clear to get a real nice finish.
It's actually a nice project to learn to paint,small enough that if you mess up just do it all over again.
:salute
The iridescent paint I was looking at was for automotive use. Oil based and fairly cheap and I think I could cover the whole bass with one medium sized can.
you call your instrument a bass?
semp
Sure do. After all that's what it is.
perfect except not just any paint will work....don't use water based paint,(it will "work" but not great and some wont work at all) get a good oil based paint....like morf said a good car paint will work perfect.....and is most often the best kind of paint that lasts the longest and will hold up to fading.
and dont chimp out on the sanding :old:
One question here. Will the paint be too thick for an airbrush/air spray can? I'm pretty sure that iridescent paint is quite thick.
-
I'm not staining the wood on my bass. Never in a million years.
The iridescent paint I was looking at was for automotive use. Oil based and fairly cheap and I think I could cover the whole bass with one medium sized can.
Sure do. After all that's what it is.
One question here. Will the paint be too thick for an airbrush/air spray can? I'm pretty sure that iridescent paint is quite thick.
thin it out for sure. :aok
edit
using an airbrush..using an automotive airbrush you wont need to.
-
Air-brushing is fun! :x
-
thin it out for sure. :aok
edit
using an airbrush..using an automotive airbrush you wont need to.
Gotchya, chief.
Also I won't be starting this until mid-October it seems. My work schedule will be soaking up a lot of time now that school is starting in two days.
-
Gotchya, chief.
Also I won't be starting this until mid-October it seems. My work schedule will be soaking up a lot of time now that school is starting in two days.
Bah schools over-rated :neener:
-
You can buy some of these to practice on
(http://www.anglersartistry.com/store/images/BLM26.5-1%20blank.jpg)
-
Air-brushing is fun! :x
the one thing I couldn't stand is the clean up...true professionals have 10-15 airbrushes so they can switch between brushes when they get clogged...I had just one and got sick of it real quick....
since I got my tablet I probably wont ever pick up another air brush.
Gotchya, chief.
Also I won't be starting this until mid-October it seems. My work schedule will be soaking up a lot of time now that school is starting in two days.
awesome it will be a cool project that YOU get to keep....
I want to see the results, and seriously dont hesitate to ask for help or advice on something :aok
you could tell me what design you are gonna do....and I could help with what to do first and so forth....(depending on what you are doing, will depend on how it is done)
also like I mentioned to Zach... the brush will clog up A LOT....clean it before that happens or you will get splatter and ruin what you are working on.
-
awesome it will be a cool project that YOU get to keep....
I want to see the results, and seriously dont hesitate to ask for help or advice on something :aok
you could tell me what design you are gonna do....and I could help with what to do first and so forth....(depending on what you are doing, will depend on how it is done)
also like I mentioned to Zach... the brush will clog up A LOT....clean it before that happens or you will get splatter and ruin what you are working on.
I can give you a picture of the bass i'm going to be painting if you wish, and when I start pulling it apart and painting it i'll be posting a few pictures each day to show the progress.
I'm also going to be ripping out the pickups, strings and bridge and replacing them all. I hope I will be able to use some new EMG pickups and a Hipshot bridge. Iv'e got a few cases of Indian and Blue Steel bass strings but I won't be replacing those until I get to the painting.
Also now that I think of it, the headstock is going to be a b*tch and a half to disassemble, paint, reassemble and then tune up the strings.
-
I've met a couple of luthiers and seen their workshops, also their painting rooms. For best results you'd better remove all parts that you won't paint. Then attach a piece of lath for a makeshift neck. You'd still need masking tape in the joint to prevent the neck and body glued together with the paint. For the same reason a couple of layers of baking paper between the lath and body wouldn't hurt. You'd also like your working area be dust free. That can easily be achieved by making sort of a tent of moist bed sheet. Remember though, that you'd need fresh breathing air, too, and good ventilation for the paint to dry. Thin layers and sanding between each after it's thoroughly dry. Clear lacquer layers in between and several layers of it for finish. You might even want to start with a clear layer or two to protect the original colour in case you'd some day want to reverse the process.
-
perfect except not just any paint will work....don't use water based paint,(it will "work" but not great and some wont work at all) get a good oil based paint....like morf said a good car paint will work perfect.....and is most often the best kind of paint that lasts the longest and will hold up to fading.
and dont chimp out on the sanding :old:
Ink,
Are you aware they use water based paints on cars these days! Not on every car or every color but that was one of the reasons they moved to a base clear system you see on most cars today.
I do agree your basic latex pain likely wouldn't be a good idea but I did say it depends on how you want the finish to look. For all I know he could want a post,reno look with paint drips,duct tape and frayed wires... :D
If you use automotive paint you will need a reducer and a hardener plus a color and a clear. You could just use a couple of spray cans but if you think you can do it with 1 can then you better buy 4 or 5! You`ll need to do many coats to get a finish even close to the finish from an airbrush.
You can pick up airbrushes fairly cheap,just need to know where to look,try a surplus store that carries tools. I found one recently with 2 guns and it was 29 bucks,ya cheap guns but they work for me and what I need.
You don't even need a compressor either,you can get compressed air in a can at the hobby shop to `power` the airbrush but I use a small compressor.
Really you could brush on the paint and get a nice finish but it would require you to polish the paint to a smooth finish,Henry Ford painted all the model T`s with a brush!
Bizman brings up a good point also,often overlooked,where you do the work!
I`d never thought of using `damp` sheets to keep the dust down but I think it`s a brilliant idea!!! I have a gazebo that I work in in the summer,might have to borrow a few sheets....... :devil
:salute
-
Ink,
Are you aware they use water based paints on cars these days! Not on every car or every color but that was one of the reasons they moved to a base clear system you see on most cars today.
I do agree your basic latex pain likely wouldn't be a good idea but I did say it depends on how you want the finish to look. For all I know he could want a post,reno look with paint drips,duct tape and frayed wires... :D
If you use automotive paint you will need a reducer and a hardener plus a color and a clear. You could just use a couple of spray cans but if you think you can do it with 1 can then you better buy 4 or 5! You`ll need to do many coats to get a finish even close to the finish from an airbrush.
You can pick up airbrushes fairly cheap,just need to know where to look,try a surplus store that carries tools. I found one recently with 2 guns and it was 29 bucks,ya cheap guns but they work for me and what I need.
You don't even need a compressor either,you can get compressed air in a can at the hobby shop to `power` the airbrush but I use a small compressor.
Really you could brush on the paint and get a nice finish but it would require you to polish the paint to a smooth finish,Henry Ford painted all the model T`s with a brush!
Bizman brings up a good point also,often overlooked,where you do the work!
I`d never thought of using `damp` sheets to keep the dust down but I think it`s a brilliant idea!!! I have a gazebo that I work in in the summer,might have to borrow a few sheets....... :devil
:salute
nope had no clue :o
-
nope had no clue :o
Emissions caused the change over! the EPA and similar in Canada stepped in on the toxic emissions from enamel based paints so the easiest solution was a water based clear/base coat.
It's also the reason you see many cars pealing the clear coat off,you can still find it on a few cars built in the last couple of years. Only a select few makers have never had this issue,but then you pay for those cars through the nose!!!
:salute
-
Mail it this way. My dad and his friend have been fixing up guitars and doing custom paintjobs for them for the last couple of years and they do some good work. I just enjoy getting to play all of them. :aok
-
Emissions caused the change over! the EPA and similar in Canada stepped in on the toxic emissions from enamel based paints so the easiest solution was a water based clear/base coat.
It's also the reason you see many cars pealing the clear coat off,you can still find it on a few cars built in the last couple of years. Only a select few makers have never had this issue,but then you pay for those cars through the nose!!!
:salute
cc that... :salute
-
Emissions caused the change over! the EPA and similar in Canada stepped in on the toxic emissions from enamel based paints so the easiest solution was a water based clear/base coat.
It's also the reason you see many cars pealing the clear coat off,you can still find it on a few cars built in the last couple of years. Only a select few makers have never had this issue,but then you pay for those cars through the nose!!!
:salute
M
US military uses water based on aircraft as well.
-
Mail it this way. My dad and his friend have been fixing up guitars and doing custom paintjobs for them for the last couple of years and they do some good work. I just enjoy getting to play all of them. :aok
The price of shipping a 20 pound bass and having to dismantle it before hand would be more work than just doing it myself.
-
M
US military uses water based on aircraft as well.
Cool,I did not know that!
Seriously skorpx if you want to do it yourself,get some fine sandpaper,use a solid color,these fancy colors in spray cans can turn out aweful if you don't know what you're doing. If you can do it with 1 can get a couple in case you develop a run and have to sand again!
your best off using many coats,just enough to cover and that's it,then build the finish up with the layers of coats. If you use a solid color to start you can fix little mistakes and just do another coat.
Sometimes those fancy paints need a certain color primer and even a base in silver or white or some other color to bring out the finish,atleast with these you can practice with the base coats and then lay a nice top coat!
If you want to see what a nice paint job can look like,check out Stampf's resto thread! He managed to get black paint to lay down almost perfect,ask him how much work that was!
I still think you should go ahead and do it,get project to start on and learn,you can always sand it down and stain it if all goes bad!! :devil
:salute
-
I do agree your basic latex pain likely wouldn't be a good idea but I did say it depends on how you want the finish to look.
There used to be a nice natural solid pine body Italian EKO in a local guitar shop. Nice playing with separate on-off switches for each of the three single coil mics. Somehow it didn't sell, maybe because it didn't look Hard Rocking enough... So the guy in the shop spread military grey latex with black flakes on it. Later I found out that an acquintance of mine had bought the guitar from the ending sale of that shop, getting it very cheap because the surface was ruined... He peeled the latex off with a plastic ice scrape too soft for its original purpose :lol
You don't even need a compressor either,you can get compressed air in a can at the hobby shop to `power` the airbrush but I use a small compressor.
Back when I was a teenager I read that automotive tires would give a solid pressure for an airbrush. I suppose they meant the inner tubes, but I can't figure out why a tubeless spare on its rim wouldn't work. They can be inflated up to about 5-6 psi, the max pressure being printed on the tire. For driving the pressures usually are around 2.5.
As for the moistened sheets I figure a moistened tent on the yard would work as well. In direct sunlight it would even naturally become negatively pressurized, forcing all incoming air to come filtered through the moist fabric. Some kind of a diving mask and snorkel with an extension tube to the outside world would be advisable during the initial painting.
-
Just dip it in a bucket of house paint already! :aok
-
Just dip it in a bucket of house paint already! :aok
Preferably to the old skool oil paint, which would take forever to dry and when it eventually will, the layer will break into brittles. :rock
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WC6EbRQmJ0
:D
-
I knew that was going to be asked. :bhead
Not the fish, the instrument.
Like this one?
(http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g358/fjyarbro/Bassguitar.png)
-
It depends on how you want it to look!
I would prep it much like painting a car,strip it down,tape up any areas you don't want paint on and then sand and prime and sand some more them prime some more then sand,etc. you can get an ok finish with a spray paint can if you know what your doing but I would suggest an airbrush.
As for what type of paint,any kind will work if you prep it right. You could get a nice automotive paint and do a base/clear to get a real nice finish.
It's actually a nice project to learn to paint,small enough that if you mess up just do it all over again.
:salute
This.
The better the prep work, the better the finish.
You can use spray paint. Heat the can GENTLY with a hair dryer for better flow and less chance of boogers coming out of the nozzle. Many light coats are better than fewer thick ones. Allow plenty of time for coats to dry. Sand with 400 grit between coats. Go progressively finer with sanding grit as you approach final coat, up to 1500 grit. Wet sand using a drop of dish soap in your water for lubrication. Hand buff with a polishing compound to remove hairline scratches. If using a spray enamel, keep in mind that it could take a week or two to fully cure so wait a few weeks to wax.
Leave the neck alone unless you are really confident. You won't be happy if your hand skids along the neck, rather than slides.
If you have access to an air sprayer, you can do wonders with some rust-oleum, a catalyst hardener and some patience. Thin with acetone for fast flash.