Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: homersipes on September 15, 2013, 08:21:21 AM
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I figure this could be an interesting thread. Yesterday I changed a starter in a 98 ford explorer that took almost 5 hours. Man you cant get to ANYTHING on those things. The bolts go horizontal on these instead of vertical like gm does, the bolts were so corroded I had all I could to turn the bottom on. Then the top :mad: I had almost 2 feet of extensions on and a floppy on the socket to get it out. Oh and then the whole top of the starter housing had rotted off, wish I had taken pictures :lol So I get a new starter and go to put it in, cant get to the wires so I had to hook them up before I installed the starter, I get the starter up inand had the big wire on wrong so it wasnt allowing the starter to go up in. What a PITA it was, it was a free vehicle to me, needed front and rear brakes, the main brake line to the rear and then the starter crapped out, so I have all of 200 into the rig. it has 115k miles on it. so lets hear some more nightmare stories :rock :cheers:
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Explorer's are known for trouble. I had a neighbor that got a cheap or free Explorer. He has had it for 4+ years now and hasn't drove it out of his driveway once (at least not legally). He has sunk a thousand or more into fixing mechanical issues. This vehicle is now in a catch 22 of sort, since it fails the emission test.
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I had a 1975 Chevy Monza with the 4.3 liter v8. You couldn't get to two of the plugs because of the power steering. I mean couldn't. You had to pull a motor mount to get to them as I recall. Beyond that, like you I live in New England. That in itself makes auto repair bad but it is considerably exacerbated by the fact I also own a Jeep TJ.
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I had to pull engine/trans out of a 2010 Cadillac SRX in order to replaces the lower rails and aprons.
The clincher is these engines are supposed to be removed through the bottom,but since the vehicle was clamped down to a frame rack and removing the engine though the bottom was impossible,I had to fabricate a harness to support the assembly with a engine crane for removal though the top.
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Worst nightmare I had was replacing the CV joint on a mid 80's Buick Skylark. I had changed them on an Audi so I thought this would be about the same. Boy was I wrong. I had to basically take the front end apart to get to it. Naturally I was doing this on a gravel driveway in the middle of July. A close second would be replacing the timing belt on a 89 Ford Escort. Wound up using a cutting torch to cut a hole in the frame so I could get a socket on. It was that or pull the engine.
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jiffy lube installed the wrong type of oil. they used 10w30 instead of 5w30, when I complained the gave me a free oil change.
semp
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A close second would be replacing the timing belt on a 89 Ford Escort. Wound up using a cutting torch to cut a hole in the frame so I could get a socket on. It was that or pull the engine.
I had an 89 Escort (or 89-1/2 with new body type) with a broken timing belt to, they usually went around 70-80,000 miles. The secret to replacing timing their belts was to remove the water pump first. Replacing the water pump with a new or rebuilt one was recommended for the extra couple of bucks.
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I have a Mercedes 250D stw from 1995. Works like charm, only 375000 km driven.
Now to the nightmare part: Sometime last spring the infrared locking/start prevention system started having hiccups. There's two receivers, one in the driver's door and another in the trunk and if the former wouldn't work, the latter would. Mostly. And it's not the key, I have two and both either work or don't. Now, one evening after work I was planning to go home. Couldn't get the lock to open! I kept pressing the key for one hour and a half until I called my neighbour who towed me to the local dedicated MB service. Hoping some bump had fixed the issue I tried the key again to no avail, so I put the key in an envelope with a brief note and dropped it through the door mail slot. Next morning the repair chief called and asked if the error would be of the nature of fixing itself... I said yes, but this time it didn't. They spent most of the day searching for the culprit but couldn't find any. Not with their equipment nor by checking every joint and relay concerned. The spare part guys said they have never been asked for the components concerning this issue, and at least one of them was working there already when the car was new! Neither has my regular one man MB unofficial dedicated repairer heard of such. Even the Finnish MB bulletin board has been quiet after the first obvious question.
The components would cost about half of the value of the car and there's no guarantee that they would fix the issue. And since the components in question have to be ordered directly from the factory, being coded for my vehicle only, there'd be no possibility to return or resell them either...
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That's the first time I've seen 375 000 kilometers with the word "only" in front of it... :lol
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1972 Ford flatbed 1 ton winch truck. gone through 4 starters in the last 5 years, and the starters keep sheering the teeth off the flywheel.
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Replaced every lifter on a TCM io-360. Had a starter adapter drive go out on a C180 on floats running a IO550, had to get a fork lift to lift the engine to r&r the adapter. Had a Cessna 421 spring a dozen leaks frontage left engine upon landing at LaGuardia on a Saturday. Was there 2 days with 2 mechanics with oil pissing out the gearbox spline cover to discover the engine was put back together by RAM using old nuts for the crankcase thru bolts. One fractured internally, the crankcase lost its bearing crush. But it ended happily.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0BUfNS59Iw&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Last one I was given a plane to grab down in DC at night around 10pm to get troubleshot and fixed. Had the other pilot drive my plane. Tookoff and discovered the controls had so much play in them it was extremely difficult to control. Bad time to discover when you are 50 feet from the other aircraft.
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Oh this is a easy one. :D My wife had a Tempo and I rebuilt the transaxle in it. Had it all done except install the axles, spindles and stuff and went to the tavern to get drunk. When I came home that night the driveway was icy and I slammed my old pickup into the arse end of her car because I couldn't stop in time. Next day, finished the Tempo went to tavern again. Came home that night and yep.......slammed into the damn car again, completely rolling the trunk up into the back seat. The old pickup never got a scratch :lol
Ended up selling the Tempo to the junkyard with brand new rebuilt transaxle still in it :( Wife is still pissed about that and this happened 10 or 12 years ago :rofl
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I figure this could be an interesting thread. Yesterday I changed a starter in a 98 ford explorer that took almost 5 hours. Man you cant get to ANYTHING on those things. The bolts go horizontal on these instead of vertical like gm does, the bolts were so corroded I had all I could to turn the bottom on. Then the top :mad: I had almost 2 feet of extensions on and a floppy on the socket to get it out. Oh and then the whole top of the starter housing had rotted off, wish I had taken pictures :lol So I get a new starter and go to put it in, cant get to the wires so I had to hook them up before I installed the starter, I get the starter up inand had the big wire on wrong so it wasnt allowing the starter to go up in. What a PITA it was, it was a free vehicle to me, needed front and rear brakes, the main brake line to the rear and then the starter crapped out, so I have all of 200 into the rig. it has 115k miles on it. so lets hear some more nightmare stories :rock :cheers:
Try replacing a starter on a Cadillac with a Northstar engine in it. The first time I did one it took me 30 minutes just to find the starter :lol It's tucked under the intake manifold on top of the block. :rolleyes:
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1972 Ford flatbed 1 ton winch truck. gone through 4 starters in the last 5 years, and the starters keep sheering the teeth off the flywheel.
Branch is this an FE powered truck? If so make sure that the spacer plate is in place between the block and bell housing.
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My tonka truck's wheel came off. Super glue didnt work so i tossed iut. Didlying piese o crap :bhead
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Getting off of work at 1:00AM, on an isolated section of road away from the main highway, my car starts, but is idling hard, and stalls every time I even think about touching the accelerator. So I'm sitting there in my damp work uniform, at 1:00AM in the middle of the trees in Oregon, with what was likely (and in actuality) a shot fuel pump.
Most in the way of tools I have is a socket set, a jack, a lighter, and my leatherman, so I'm pretty much boned.
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wow and I thought I was the only one with crappy luck :lol
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dropping a rear end out of a Duster it fell on my finger.......ouch some few week later my nail rotted off wife made me go to Doctor.
I recovered and nail grew back , it was the last time i changed a rear end without using jack stands for safety. lesson hard learned. :cheers:
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Getting off of work at 1:00AM, on an isolated section of road away from the main highway, my car starts, but is idling hard, and stalls every time I even think about touching the accelerator. So I'm sitting there in my damp work uniform, at 1:00AM in the middle of the trees in Oregon, with what was likely (and in actuality) a shot fuel pump.
Most in the way of tools I have is a socket set, a jack, a lighter, and my leatherman, so I'm pretty much boned.
The leatherman and lighter would have fixed your problem, at least temporarily. :devil
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dropping a rear end out of a Duster it fell on my finger.......ouch some few week later my nail rotted off wife made me go to Doctor.
I recovered and nail grew back , it was the last time i changed a rear end without using jack stands for safety. lesson hard learned. cheers
safety ALWAYS first :aok I read on another forum a guy was changing the starter in his car and had it held up with only a floorjack, he crawled out from under the car to get the starter and about 20 seconds later he heard a bang and the car dropped. the floorjack blew a seal and collapsed. ALWAYS USE JACKSTANDS!! :cheers:
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Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack, never use cinder blocks to support a vehicle. Once a vehicle is up and supported always shake the vehicle to ensure that it is supported properly, even if you are using a lift! Nothing can ruin an enjoyable day of wrenching on your favorite vehicle than having it fall on you and squishing your head.
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The leatherman and lighter would have fixed your problem, at least temporarily. :devil
Nope. Needed an allen wrench set to get at the fuel pump.
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Working in a shop:Alternator replacement on a beretta z34.
(http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu346/SCD88GA/2012-09-08132636.jpg)
Working at home: Cutting the mufflers off my c5 corvette with a sawz all and forgot simple physics, the muffler and newly cut pipe swung down (still attached to the hanger) and hit my left hand and sliced the top of my hand open. Had to get a towel to stop the bleeding while my wife drove me to urgent care to get stitched up. Oh how fun it was to get a shot and a good scrubbing inside the wound.
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Hmmm.. Seen lots of bad ones over the years..
Here's a gooder..
88 or so Mitsibishi.. 2.0L 4cyl.. The one with the 3 gilmer timing belts..
2 balance shafts and the Cam drive.. Came in with all three belts wasted..
OK, replace the belts, goes about 3 hrs perfect, then bang, wastes all 3 belts again..
Turned out the rear balance shaft had a bad bearing, (press in like a cam bearing)
It would run for while, then seize, which shredded the belt and threw the shreds into
the other two belts, shredding them too..
Had to yank the motor to fix it..
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Power Steering rack in a ford Tempo with an Auto Trans, LOL, oh yeah..
Got Crowsfoot???
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Blown head gaskets on a HT4100 caddy motor..
Alloy V8 overheated, pushed the iron liners out
of the block, just enough to keep blowing head
gaskets..
I got so I refused them in the shop..
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2014 Escape, had to take the front seats, center console and both front doors off just to get the dash out.
Anything on a Mark8 :bhead
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Driving back from an Auto auction in Boise Idaho to
Tacoma WA, in a Dodge Ramcharger 4x4 with a bad
Computer Command Module on the 440 thermotoilet..
At the time those modules were dealer only, and they
broke so often there were none available..
Took almost 2 days, go stop go stop go stop..
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most of what i do is fairly straightforward, and most of the headaches come from not having the right tools available or rust.
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We rented a UHaul one time, the mirror was held on by masking tape, so I bought bolts (who-da-thunkit) bolts, and fixed that. wo we get headed from vermont to colorado, get out in PA and stopped for the night, had a late start. We had figured we could sleep on the futon we had at the very back, so we get all comfy and it started raining, the box leaked, so to the cab we went, well wouldnt ya know but the doors and windshield also leaked. By the time we woke up in the morning there was almost 3 inches of rain water in the cab :mad: so we make it all the way to kansas and cross into colorado, pass a sign that says next gas station 97 miles (I think thats what it was) well had almost 3/4s of a tank, til the first bump down to half. still got around 80 miles to go. hit another bump uh oh 1/4 tank still got 50 miles to go, uh oh next bump was almost on E with 30 miles left. We ended up siphoning gas out of the car we were hauling to make it to the gas station. Made it to Colorado Springs, took the truck back and the guy preceded to tell me that I was going to pay for the scratches in the box :mad: :mad: He didnt know what to say when I told him we took gas out of our car and put into it :lol
most of what i do is fairly straightforward, and most of the headaches come from not having the right tools available or rust.
yeah rust SUCKS :lol after a few years a 9/16 nut turns into a 7/16 pound on socket
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jiffy lube installed the wrong type of oil. they used 10w30 instead of 5w30, when I complained the gave me a free oil change.
semp
be glad they put ANY oil back in. when i used to tow, the company i worked for, we averaged 1 a week that drove into jiffylube, and got towed out. by us.
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Nope. Needed an allen wrench set to get at the fuel pump.
I was thinking more along the lines of use leatherman to cut fuel line, use lighter to ignite, stand back. Nice warm fire to dry your damp work uniform, and hopefully will attract enough attention to get you a ride home. That's why the :devil at the end.
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replacing a heater core on a Land Rover Discovery, it must have been the first thing they put in it because it was the last to come out.
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be glad they put ANY oil back in. when i used to tow, the company i worked for, we averaged 1 a week that drove into jiffylube, and got towed out. by us.
Get this. I saw a Dodge dealer that forgot to drain the old oil on a Neon. GF was like my cars not running right. I go out, pop the hood and there was oil everywhere it could find a way out. Emissions was coated in oil, vacuum sys had oil in it... it was everywhere. Don't know how that finally worked out but the lawyers were handling it last I heard.
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Seems like most nightmare repairs start out simply enough. Friend was leaving work when the serpentine belt on his wife's Saturn Vue came apart, seems like a simple enough fix right? Until it was discovered that Saturn (in their infinite wisdom) placed the motor mounts in such a way that the only way to replace the belt (BELT mind you) was to drop both motor mounts. Only time I can recall needing an engine hoist to change a belt :lol .
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Seems like most nightmare repairs start out simply enough. Friend was leaving work when the serpentine belt on his wife's Saturn Vue came apart, seems like a simple enough fix right? Until it was discovered that Saturn (in their infinite wisdom) placed the motor mounts in such a way that the only way to replace the belt (BELT mind you) was to drop both motor mounts. Only time I can recall needing an engine hoist to change a belt :lol .
no engine hoist needed. floor jack and phone book/wood under the oil pan.
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lesseeee......
could be the timing belt on an audi a4 or a6. could be the cylinder head on same audi. could be the pcv system on a volvo suv. could be the vw turbo. i could go on and on.
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There was a high pitched squealing coming from the wheel wells in the car last week. Today I had to take it to the shop....at like 8am!!! Then I had to walk to work.
Nightmare.
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The wife calls me and says the car is making a terrible noise,she lets me hear in on the phone and it does sound terrible so I tell her to stop and call roadside assistance.
The next day the shop calls to say the car is fixed! I go pick it up and ask what the problem was,remember I never actually saw the car. They proceed to tell me a walnut,yup a walnut had worked it's way into the brake caliper and was stuck between the caliper and rotor!
I get home and tell my wife,she then says well I did see a squirrel takeoff from under the car that mourning,blasted squirrel,without a camera I might add,was storing nuts for the winter,well good luck finding that one!!!! :rofl :rofl :rofl
:salute
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I'm not a mechanic but here's one of my worst stories
....having a rented vehicle and not knowing where the stupid gas cap unlock button was.... :x
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I'm not a mechanic but here's one of my worst stories
....having a rented vehicle and not knowing where the stupid gas cap unlock button was.... :x
LOL...I sat at a gas station trying to figure out the same thing on the Camaro I bought in 2010, for like half an hour. I eventually had to open up the manual. It was a simple push to unlock....seriously. Had 3 different people trying to help find how to do it too, including the station manager. The wife was pissed because I was really late.
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Doing the downpipe on my truck was the biggest PITA. The turbo heat shield had a 10mm bolt that is almost impossible to turn, but after 20 min of 1/16 turns I got it off lol. The fact that the downpipe and exhaust were rusted together didn't help either. I also had to loosen the trans dipstick and that was a adventure of bashing knuckles...
It was worth it for the sound and EGT drop. :)
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I have a Mercedes 250D stw from 1995. Works like charm, only 375000 km driven.
Now to the nightmare part: Sometime last spring the infrared locking/start prevention system started having hiccups. There's two receivers, one in the driver's door and another in the trunk and if the former wouldn't work, the latter would. Mostly. And it's not the key, I have two and both either work or don't. Now, one evening after work I was planning to go home. Couldn't get the lock to open! I kept pressing the key for one hour and a half until I called my neighbour who towed me to the local dedicated MB service. Hoping some bump had fixed the issue I tried the key again to no avail, so I put the key in an envelope with a brief note and dropped it through the door mail slot. Next morning the repair chief called and asked if the error would be of the nature of fixing itself... I said yes, but this time it didn't. They spent most of the day searching for the culprit but couldn't find any. Not with their equipment nor by checking every joint and relay concerned. The spare part guys said they have never been asked for the components concerning this issue, and at least one of them was working there already when the car was new! Neither has my regular one man MB unofficial dedicated repairer heard of such. Even the Finnish MB bulletin board has been quiet after the first obvious question.
The components would cost about half of the value of the car and there's no guarantee that they would fix the issue. And since the components in question have to be ordered directly from the factory, being coded for my vehicle only, there'd be no possibility to return or resell them either...
Check batteries. Both car and the keys. Low voltage makes the infrared locks malfunction.
I had a vehicle nightmare of my own with the MB infrared:
My step-father who is 2 meters tall and 140kg borrowed my W210 E320 once. He was in a hurry to go to a concert as a performer. He was using the car for the first time (and coincidentally the last time).
He tried to lock the doors using the remote to no avail. When I gave the car I asked him if he needed instructions.. no. So he didn't realize the key was infrared, not radio. He never pointed the key to the rear view mirror where the sensor was. He got nervous and tried to lock the doors manually - W210 doors can't be locked just by plugging the button in. He tried everything including trying to close the door with the handle lifted. He pressed the door with his thumb so hard while attempting to lock the door with the handle lifted that the car had dents above all handles when he returned it.
When I saw the car I was furious... what sort of a moron has dented all my doors. Then I hear the story.. sigh. Yeah you didn't need instructions.
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That's the first time I've seen 375 000 kilometers with the word "only" in front of it... :lol
Well, the previous one showed 620 000 km without any major engine repair when I sold it. My reason for selling was that it started to gather rust above the windscreen a year after yet another glass replacement. Apparently they had used a knife to scrape the glue off, not bothering to paint the scratches they made.
Check batteries. Both car and the keys. Low voltage makes the infrared locks malfunction.
Already checked. Battery is quite new, there were more visible symptoms when the original started to die. In regard of the key batteries, I don't believe the batteries of both keys would be malfunctioning at the same time and start working again simultaneously. Especially when the other key is most of the time at home as a spare.
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Already checked. Battery is quite new, there were more visible symptoms when the original started to die. In regard of the key batteries, I don't believe the batteries of both keys would be malfunctioning at the same time and start working again simultaneously. Especially when the other key is most of the time at home as a spare.
One of my favourite quotes is: "When you've exhausted investigating the possible, you have to consider the impossible". Did you measure the voltage in the spare battery? Batteries have a shelf life you know and unused spare from 1995 may not be so fresh anymore ;)
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i learned a loooonnnnnggggg time ago, to NEVER assume anything with any car. just because you think it's good, or it "appears" good, doesn't mean it isn't. i've been burned that way.
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The unused spare is the one I had to order when my primary key broke some years ago... But to prevent you from getting to say 'gotcha' I measured both keys: 3.06 for both batteries in the primary key, 3.17 for both in the secondary one. Contacts clean and tight. Not working.
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Helped a friend of mine stuff a Ford GT500 (5.8L supercharged) engine into his Cobra. Never again.
Not enough room to drop in the engine/transmission as an assembly. Not enough room to install either the engine or the transmission separately. Could not go from the bottom, engine too wide for the frame rails. Could not tilt the engine and slide in the transmission as the heads were would hit the firewall.
So, we cut the floorboard out of the car, installed the engine and transmission, then welded the floorboard back in. If he needs to remove either, he will have to do it again. As the floorboard is integral to the integrity of the body structure, it had to be welded in.
Oh, did I mention, we had to do it again because the numbskull forgot to install the clutch disc before we put it all back together again?
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Helped a friend of mine stuff a Ford GT500 (5.8L supercharged) engine into his Cobra. Never again.
Not enough room to drop in the engine/transmission as an assembly. Not enough room to install either the engine or the transmission separately. Could not go from the bottom, engine too wide for the frame rails. Could not tilt the engine and slide in the transmission as the heads were would hit the firewall.
So, we cut the floorboard out of the car, installed the engine and transmission, then welded the floorboard back in. If he needs to remove either, he will have to do it again. As the floorboard is integral to the integrity of the body structure, it had to be welded in.
Oh, did I mention, we had to do it again because the numbskull forgot to install the clutch disc before we put it all back together again?
wanna hear one on that? the ford dealer down the street from me has an 013 gt500 sitting on their lot. with a blown engine. the owner(they said a kid) had it towed in, saying they never raced, blablabla.
they sent computer data to ford, and ford is refusing the warranty. apparently the kid had the car tuned, which is what caused the engine to go......they said the engine for that car is $28k. ouchiwawa. i told them i'd offer the kid $5k for the car as it sits. :noid
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All gt500 engines are supercharged. Yep, that is about the right price, without the control electronics needed. With over 600hp, and over 650ft/lbs of torque, his car should be able to pull most stumps from the ground, if he can get any traction. Big "if".
Although I do know a few guys with more horsepower and torque under the hood. There is one crazy running about with over 1200hp in his Cobra.
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I've just read this on yahoo news; this frustrated BMW owner fixing his 160,000$ BMW, lmao :lol
http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/bmw-m6-owner-goes-hulk-over-defects-smashes-163648995.html
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All gt500 engines are supercharged. Yep, that is about the right price, without the control electronics needed. With over 600hp, and over 650ft/lbs of torque, his car should be able to pull most stumps from the ground, if he can get any traction. Big "if".
Although I do know a few guys with more horsepower and torque under the hood. There is one crazy running about with over 1200hp in his Cobra.
i dunno the exact specs.....but the guy across the street has a customer(who is also a shop owner, lolol...specializes in only high end imports) that owns many many hotrods. but he doesn't work on those himself, so he brings them to joe. this guy just picked up a shelby 1000.
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Helped a friend of mine stuff a Ford GT500 (5.8L supercharged) engine into his Cobra. Never again.
Not enough room to drop in the engine/transmission as an assembly. Not enough room to install either the engine or the transmission separately. Could not go from the bottom, engine too wide for the frame rails. Could not tilt the engine and slide in the transmission as the heads were would hit the firewall.
So, we cut the floorboard out of the car, installed the engine and transmission, then welded the floorboard back in. If he needs to remove either, he will have to do it again. As the floorboard is integral to the integrity of the body structure, it had to be welded in.
Oh, did I mention, we had to do it again because the numbskull forgot to install the clutch disc before we put it all back together again?
:rofl and that's why I don't drink and work and cars at the same time :lol I replaced a intake and carb once and had to go back and remove it because a left a wrench in the valley pan.... :uhoh
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:rofl and that's why I don't drink and work and cars at the same time :lol I replaced a intake and carb once and had to go back and remove it because a left a wrench in the valley pan.... :uhoh
last time i drank at the same time i was working on a car, was putting the 4 speed back in a 74 roadrunner. i fell asleep under the car, with part of the trans laying on my chest. scared the crap outta my buddy that came over to see how i was making out.
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Helped a friend of mine stuff a Ford GT500 (5.8L supercharged) engine into his Cobra. Never again.
Not enough room to drop in the engine/transmission as an assembly. Not enough room to install either the engine or the transmission separately. Could not go from the bottom, engine too wide for the frame rails. Could not tilt the engine and slide in the transmission as the heads were would hit the firewall.
So, we cut the floorboard out of the car, installed the engine and transmission, then welded the floorboard back in. If he needs to remove either, he will have to do it again. As the floorboard is integral to the integrity of the body structure, it had to be welded in.
Oh, did I mention, we had to do it again because the numbskull forgot to install the clutch disc before we put it all back together again?
Next time you go to do it, PM me I got a neat trick to get the trans in without cutting anything open.
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last time i drank at the same time i was working on a car, was putting the 4 speed back in a 74 roadrunner. i fell asleep under the car, with part of the trans laying on my chest. scared the crap outta my buddy that came over to see how i was making out.
I was so excited the first time I got a compressor for the garage I opened a 12 pack ans want to see how fast I could take the tranny out of my 77 4x4 Ford. Man I was zipping bolts out like I was on Petty's pit crew! Only problem was I forgot to block up the tranny and when the crossmember came off the transfer case smacked me in the head when it dropped down. The wife was standing there and all she heard was a big thud and my feet go up in the air. She was freaking out. She thought for sure I was dead because I didn't answer her at first as I was too busy telling myself how stupid i was. Damn that hurt. :lol
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i dunno the exact specs.....but the guy across the street has a customer(who is also a shop owner, lolol...specializes in only high end imports) that owns many many hotrods. but he doesn't work on those himself, so he brings them to joe. this guy just picked up a shelby 1000.
Actually just visited the Shelby museum this past week and the 1000 on display was beautiful, and can be ordered for a meager $155,000 or so. Of course they are still building the old style Cobras there with 427 or 289 (cutomer preference) and they are in the $200,000 range so the Shelby 1000 starts sounding like a bargain. :lol
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Oh, did I mention, we had to do it again because the numbskull forgot to install the clutch disc before we put it all back together again?
:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl Sorry Skuzzy. Not laughing at you, laughing with you. That sounds like something that would happen to me.
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I'm pretty sure mine will occur shortly after the driver of our car pushes the button on the 500 shot of nitrous oxide while also running 45 pounds of boost.
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The unused spare is the one I had to order when my primary key broke some years ago... But to prevent you from getting to say 'gotcha' I measured both keys: 3.06 for both batteries in the primary key, 3.17 for both in the secondary one. Contacts clean and tight. Not working.
Too bad, I was hoping you'd get a cheap and easy fix. What about the car battery? Did you check it has enough voltage? Mercedes is known for weeeeird stuff when people run with a low battery starting from random ODB errors to stuff like what I experienced:
As I told earlyer I kept my first mercedes a long time. I think it was about 11 years old when one morning it refused to start. Engine was cranking like there was no compression in any of the cylinders i.e. turning real easy (too fast for a regular crank) but engine wouldn't fire up. Then finally after cranking some time the car sluggishly started but again just barely being able to rev up like all compression would be gone and the engine had barely enough power to idle.
I was 100% sure that I had something catastrophic fail in the engine and was cursing because I had put the car for sale already and it had worked perfectly that far. Then when I started to drive the car to a mechanic I noticed the engine was working just fine after a minute of driving. I got suspicious because I knew my car had a 110Ah battery and it had never been changed during the many years of my ownership. I was dumbstruck to see my battery was still the factory original! It had cranked my car up in -30c just previous winter with no preheating.
One new battery later the car fired up and worked as good as new again. Well, about as new as a 300 000km driven Mercedes can be. I got a good laugh one day when I took one of our customers out to eat and the car had 160 000km on it at that time. He asked was my car brand new, with a serious face. I can't blame him though.. at that point it even smelled like a new car still.
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I had the original battery replaced a couple of years ago. It should still have a couple more ahead. No starting problems even after an unused weekend like with the old one or the ones I had to change to my previous MB. And I suppose my trusted repairman tested the voltage while doing the 375 000 km oil change. At least he checked the freezing point of the coolant. I'm pretty sure it isn't the car battery. After all, shouldn't they work best in summer temperatures after a lengthy drive?
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I'm pretty sure mine will occur shortly after the driver of our car pushes the button on the 500 shot of nitrous oxide while also running 45 pounds of boost.
I call BS. What the heck are you running 45 lbs of boost on, and if you tell me some gasser I'll know your full of it saying your going to hit it with a 500 hp shot of nitrous.
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It's the current standing mile record holder at 283mph and we're getting close making an attempt at 300mph.
I do engine, "boost by gear", and nitrous oxide management systems as well as data acquisition systems......dynamometer service and repair......etc.
I'm inside the burning hot car with my head near the pedals checking wiring.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6181/6123261468_a52202b316_b.jpg)
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I had a 1975 Chevy Monza with the 4.3 liter v8. You couldn't get to two of the plugs because of the power steering. I mean couldn't. You had to pull a motor mount to get to them as I recall. Beyond that, like you I live in New England. That in itself makes auto repair bad but it is considerably exacerbated by the fact I also own a Jeep TJ.
Yep. A friend owned one and had to do exactly that.
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Working on a 2004 Cadillac, wouldn't start. Ok no communication with the ECM. Check wiring, power, grounds, all check out ok and I can communicate with other modules. So install new ECM damn still no communication on the scan tool. WTF!
Lean on front of car to check wire harness and bam, communication with the ECM ok! Move to side of car dam lost it.
Push down on front of car it's back. Finally find ground strap frayed and barely touching as I lean on car, repaired it and boom all good.
Moral of story: Start with the simple things first. Keep it simple stupid. :rolleyes: :D
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1989 Chevy cavalier z24 convertable. a cantankerous V6 stuffed into an engine bay designed for a small inline 4, the only good thing I got out of that car was a good understanding of how to tear down and rebuild an engine block and I was also able to trade it straight up for a 1987 Toyota supra that had a blown head gasket. A few days of turning wrenches on the supra and I had a car that I greatly enjoyed driving for the next 6 years.
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Oh, did I mention, we had to do it again because the numbskull forgot to install the clutch disc before we put it all back together again?
:rofl :rofl When did he notice?
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Shoehorning a Buick Grand National turbo V6 into a Jeep CJ5... Took all winter, with plumbing the intercooler being a serious challenge...
Of course, it was beyond quick and seriously unnerving with lifted suspension and very short short wheelbase... The only vehicle I've ever owned that could induce a spontaneous bowel voiding. A friendly puppy was less likely to roll over....