Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: DrJackyI on October 06, 2013, 11:31:37 AM
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Well, I just got a new comp so now I am saving for some devices. I used to use sidewinder pedals combo'd with a logi stick, ofcourse that's all gone now so I would GREATLY appreciate any advice on some new devices. I am not rich yet so please make any suggestions on items that are affordable 100 to 300 dollar range.
Thanks,
Jackyl
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For $300 you've got plenty to choose from.
For $100 much less... I only have experience in the lower price range: For less than $50 you can get the Thrustmaster T-16000m which is the most accurate stick for the price with its hal sensors. If you want something to do with your left hand, the Thrustmaster HotasX is also in the $50 range. Both will feel familiar after a Logitech, much the same design and size. Since you've used pedals before, you might like a pair of those, too. Both Saitek and CH have them in the $100 price range. Saitek is a little wider in design with adjustable tension. I have both TM's and the Saitek Pro Flight pedals, using the T-16000m as stick and the HotasX for throttle only, combined cost below 200.
BTW lots of opinions on the Hardware and Software (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/board,18.0.html) section where this thread will probably also be moved.
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This will probably get moved to the Hardware forum, and there is tons of threads about this.
If your current budget is 100 to 300, I would commit to either a CH Hotas setup, and get the stick, the rudders, then the throttle in that order. Another option is the Saitek/Madcatz X52. For the little bit extra I would get the X52 Pro, and a set of pedals. The two sets I would look at are either the CH pedals or the Saitek Combat pedals. The CH are around 125 to 150 usually, but sometimes come up for 100$. The Combat pedals are wider, have more metal construction, and are better pedals IMO, as I have both and a set of custom peds as well. The Saitek Combats will cost you closer to 200$ or more, so they may be out of your budget. You could get by with just the X52 Pro and use the twisty for the rudder function, but pedals will be more accurate once you get used to them.
CH stuff is the most precise so far as making accurate shots in AH, as jet sims and the like usually don't need the super accurate precision of aiming at wings or cockpits and the like in Aces High. In this game accuracy is extremely important, and the Ch Fighter or Combat stick IMO of all the HOTAS I've had are the most precise. I have the TM Warthog (way out of your price range, and stiffer and not as precise IMO as the CH Stick), and it's fantastic, especially for offline and jet sims, and I had the Saitek X65, but due to the nature of how it works, a non moving force sensing stick, it's extremely difficult to get used to and be accurate with, plus it's almost as much as the Warthog.
So, I feel your best option is either get the X52 Pro and some pedals, or the CH Fighter/Combat Stick for 120$ ish, and buy the rudder pedals, then the throttle, as you can afford them. The CH setup will serve you the best for AH, I firmly believe that, but all the other options are really good as well. The X52 Pro will get you the throttle for the same price as just the stick with CH, and it can be very precise when set up properly in AH as well. Plus, with the X52 Pro you can get by without pedals and save some $ for a bit until you can afford it, or just blow your entire 300$ budget and get the X52 Pro and pedals together, and you should have enough left over for a few McDonalds trips.
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the ch fighterstick is no as accurate as they used to be. there's lots of players who bought theirs years ago and they work nicely, and I believe that. but I have had 3 ch fightersticks in the last couple of years and they have alll been a pos. I actually cant tank at all without having to calibrate every single time I log in.
semp
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I can't comment to that, as the Fightersticks I have were purchases the day they came out in USB, and then one again in 2007 or so. I did buy a Combatstick for one of my other systems that is only a year old, and it doesn't have any problems.
This makes me want to pick up a new Fighterstick and see if the quality control has gone down. I might try that today just to see, as my 1st one is getting worn, and I'd like to have a nib one in case they ever go out of production.
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gman I wish you would get one as that would be give a good comparison of the quality.
people have recommended that I open my stick and make sure all the connections are ok. but one the screws is hard to remove. I belive I may have already stripped it. as soon as I get back to fry's, I'll pick up another saitek x52. I never had problems with it. ch fighterstick on the other hand will lose calibration in the middle of combat often.
semp
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the ch fighterstick is no as accurate as they used to be. there's lots of players who bought theirs years ago and they work nicely, and I believe that. but I have had 3 ch fightersticks in the last couple of years and they have alll been a pos. I actually cant tank at all without having to calibrate every single time I log in.
semp
yep; same here, my 1st CH stick/pedals worked well for 8-9 years since 2004; I bought a new set this year and doesn't work well, I can't calibrate it right for AH , needs constant adjustments /calibration.
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Thanks guys I will look those units up ..... sorry bout posting in wrong section, guess I should have looked first, lol.
Thanks Biz on advice about the feel. I have a slim long fingered hand so the feel of the logi I absolutely loved. I had a Saitek 42 I think it was when I had the logi but preferred the logi over the Saitek.
Thanks again guys
~S~
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I had the same calibration loss/spikey issues with my new Combatstick. I bought a new Fighterstick thinking maybe I got a bad one...same issues. I finally just opened them up and fixed the connections. There are slide on crimped looking connectors on the pots. On both sticks I found very loose connections on each axis that was causing the problem. I pulled them off (a couple wires pretty much fell off as soon as I touched them), crimped them down so they fit tightly and reinstalled them. Both sticks work like my old Combatstick used to work before I wore it out.
Overall this is an easy fix. The issue is that as soon as you open the stick your warranty is void. If you decide to open the stick there are four screws visable on the bottom of the base. There are four more screws under the rubber "feet". You have to pry the feet (I used a flatblade screwdriver) to get to them. One thing I did when I reassembled the stick was to glue the feet on next to where the screws are instead of over them. This way you can open it back up again without removing the feet should you need to replace a pot etc. Oh and I used gorilla glue to reglue the feet...seemed to work well.
Hope this helps someone.
Zaphod
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I went through 3 x52's and 2 other saitek sticks.....in about 4 years....
the CH fighter stick I have had for the last 3 years or so......
saitek Pro peddles are great but mine go off track every now and then, (easy to put back)
I use an X52 throttle but thats not needed as the CH has a throttle....no twisty though so if you go that route you will need peddles.
if you are Heavy handed avoid the Saitek.(they are pretty but cheaply made)
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CH guys, I have a couple of questions. Where is the throttle located on the fighterstick unit? Looking at the picture I don't see it. Also, do I have to use the provided calibration software or can I just use the in game calibration for the stick and rudders and to assign functions to the buttons? Thanks.
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The throttle on the CH Combat and Fighterstick is the black wheel about 1/2 an inch high on the left side of the top of the body, just left of the stick column. It just slides forward and back, and isn't much of a throttle, but beats nothing, just not by much.
So far as calibrating, I've only calibrated once or twice that I can remember in Windows, and just use the in game calibrator in Aces High for the game. There is a CH utility you can download that allows you to center everything in Windows, but again, I went years without it, and only use it once in a blue moon.
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What Gman said....I calibrate ingame maybe twice in 3 years.the CH is all plastic like the X52....but it is way more precise then the X52...but only a bit stiffer...the X52 is very "limp" it takes no pressure to move the stick...to the point of I always added a washer on the spring to stiffen it up a bit.
honestly the X52 is awesome LOOKING and I guess will work good if you have girly hands :P
but ham fisted flying or just plain heavy use will break them....
the CH is a Big stick and if you have smaller hands will be difficult to reach the hat switch...the X52 also a big stick....has a re positional hand rest....which is great.
there is a mod that can be done on the CH that makes the castle the hat switch.
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I had the same problem as Brake :old:
Shame really :old:
Why would someone invent glue to stick down gorillas?
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I have to agree about the newer CH products. A few months ago I got a new combat stick and it would not center properly no matter what, I ended up swapping out the gimble from an older one to fix the problem.
shamus
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New Fighterstick OTW, I should have it after the weekend. If there are any troubles, I'll crack it open and take some pics, I'm interested to see if the connections are as poorly done as some here and on other boards have mentioned. It'd be a shame if their QC has dropped a lot in the last few years....
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Who knows you might be surprised. I know that the Logi's, when u get a new one you should immediately remove the rubber boot on it. That thing will degrade and drop little pieces of rubber that get stuck on the grease they use on the pot's, which eventually gets worked into the slider inside which causes all kinds of cali issues. So, taking that off will increase the sensitivity life 2 to 3 times or more.
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Who knows you might be surprised. I know that the Logi's, when u get a new one you should immediately remove the rubber boot on it. That thing will degrade and drop little pieces of rubber that get stuck on the grease they use on the pot's, which eventually gets worked into the slider inside which causes all kinds of cali issues. So, taking that off will increase the sensitivity life 2 to 3 times or more.
You must be kidding! Although it must be a matter of the amount of stick stirring... I've seen Logi's with a worn out rubber boot but I could have sold the sleeves of my sticks as spare parts after several years of usage. There's many things that can affect the longevity of a rubber collar of a stick - or any rubber things that can contact your hands, for that matter. Some hand lotions work as rubber softeners, as can do the residues of a skin friendly soap. Even your own skin can excrete substances that can make rubber sloppy, slimy, sticky and/or crumbly. Yet another reason to wash your hands before using your computer and its peripherals.
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You must be kidding! Although it must be a matter of the amount of stick stirring... I've seen Logi's with a worn out rubber boot but I could have sold the sleeves of my sticks as spare parts after several years of usage. There's many things that can affect the longevity of a rubber collar of a stick - or any rubber things that can contact your hands, for that matter. Some hand lotions work as rubber softeners, as can do the residues of a skin friendly soap. Even your own skin can excrete substances that can make rubber sloppy, slimy, sticky and/or crumbly. Yet another reason to wash your hands before using your computer and its peripherals.
Yikes now you remind me of some of the keyboards I've had to work with. Some customers have absolutely disgusting keyboards with literally 1mm thick black dirt layer on top of the keys, with a worn out hole in the middle of the key so you partially see the letter...