Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: RotBaron on December 14, 2013, 05:45:34 PM
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Have paint drops and splatter all over parts of concrete where sloppy handyman built our carport. The paint has been there at least 2 years at this point maybe longer.
So far I've tried:
-paint thinner; didn't work
-muriatic acid (as suggested by an Ace Hardware agent) nope, but it did take many layers off that I'm not sure was good for the driveway in long run. The Ace guy said muriatic acid would work better than turpentine...
Any suggestions?
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<<<< knows nothing :uhoh
sandblast? the damage from sandblasting may be less than chemical alternatives. :bolt:
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gasoline, methanol , scratch it with sandpaper or burn it ;
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Some type of chemical car paint stripper might do. I have never tried it on concrete and couldn't say if it would do any harm.
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Did you already try power washing?
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I know it sounds silly but if it's a small area try some brake fluid. Now it may leave a stain so test an area that wont be seen! If you've ever spilled brake fluid on a painted part you'd know what I mean.
The rumours of having brake fluid accidently spilled on my car by an old girl friend are completely untrue.......... :furious
:salute
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Power wash.
Rent one. Check with Home Depot's rental department.
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gasoline, methanol , scratch it with sandpaper or burn it ;
Actually, a propane torch may be worth a try. Just lightly heat the paint and see if it peals off.
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I have used this: http://www.coppergreen.com/greensliquid.htm
mostly on wood furniture, but it should work on concrete as well. use a TSP solution for rinsing the concrete after removal.
68valu
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Actually, a propane torch may be worth a try. Just lightly heat the paint and see if it peals off.
I would not use a torch, the moisture in the concrete will expand rapidly causing it to pop into sharp flying objects.......I made the mistake of heating up a U-joint on the floor and had to pick about a dime sized chunk on concrete out of my cheek........not fun at all :old:
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SKYDROL
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If you can find any, hydrocholoric acid would probably do the trick. In undergrad school built a brand new $50m science building which the dean of the biology department wanted to keep the facilities cleaned. Some of the stains used for various slides would get on the floor due to incompetent students and as the TA, had to somehow get some of these stains off the floor. Anyone that has handled biological stains know how much of a pain in the arse they can be to get off anything, can take 1-2 weeks just to get off skin. Used 2M HCl and it took everything off real fast. Dont just get 1M HCl if you can find it, make sure it is concentrated to at least 2M. For the heavy stains used 5M HCl. Be sure to wear gloves when handling it if you do manage to find it. 100% ethanol would probably do it as well as a safer option.
Edit: Duh didnt read you tried muriatic acid which is HCl but probably isnt concentrated enough being its bought in a hardware store and its not science grade.
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sial/258148?lang=en®ion=US
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sial/84422?lang=en®ion=US
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There's a lot of bad advice in this thread. Concrete is not indestructible. Get it wrong and you'll be replacing it when the top surface rots.
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Do you have pictures of the area? Is it a thick layer of paint or was the original spill/drip cleaned up and you are dealing with the paint that absorbed into the concrete?
Concrete is porous, soaks stuff up. It's old, which means it's going to be tough. Pressure washing is your best bet, but you have to be extremely careful as you can cut the top, smoothed layer of concrete right off and expose the aggregate underneath. If it's a wide area, maybe you're better off coating the area instead of damaging the concrete. Nice outdoor concrete coating, sand or earth colors. Might dress the place up and solve the spots at the same time.
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OK thank you gentlemen for the responses. It does appear as though even that muriatic acid has taken a layer off the top and as said exposed the under aggregate. I won't be experimenting in anything but tiny areas.
The areas with paint are drops and in some spots heavier, like the painter didn't get the brush to wood in time after it was just dipped. The concrete is very old, like 30yrs maybe, maybe more, but has been well kept over those years.
I might try some of the suggestions on single drops to see the result.
Could gasoline really be effective if paint thinner was not?
TY
Rot
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IF you're able to dissolve the paint with a solvent, it'll wick into the surrounding concrete. That will leave you with ROC's plan B as a reasonably inexpensive option.
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OK thank you gentlemen for the responses. It does appear as though even that muriatic acid has taken a layer off the top and as said exposed the under aggregate. I won't be experimenting in anything but tiny areas.
The areas with paint are drops and in some spots heavier, like the painter didn't get the brush to wood in time after it was just dipped. The concrete is very old, like 30yrs maybe, maybe more, but has been well kept over those years.
I might try some of the suggestions on single drops to see the result.
Could gasoline really be effective if paint thinner was not?
TY
Rot
Once the paint dries in the pores of the cement my guess is nothing but heavy sanding is going to remove it. Paint removal liquid works only on flat surfaces which allow you to peal the paint off with a spatula - porous surfaces are way way harder as you can't reach the insides of the pores. Perhaps paint stripper + heavy brushing with a steel brush. That's going to leave marks on the concrete though. I'd say you're SOL - do this or that you're going to have to have it resurfaced.
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Unfortunately if it is regular churned concrete made from dust and ballast then there is no way that will work other than removing the area that the paint has soaked into. As mentioned the concrete is like a sponge. Effectively your driveway has been tattooed. Depending on the consistency of the top layer and the amount of paint, it could have soaked in up to an inch or more. If you're lucky, the very best scenario is you'll have to brush or chip away at least a few mm of concrete.
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You guys are going about this all wrong. Simple solution. Paint the whole driveway. :D
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Go here:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/garage/removing-oil-paint-and-other-concrete-stains/view-all (http://www.familyhandyman.com/garage/removing-oil-paint-and-other-concrete-stains/view-all)
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(http://static3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20070309191747/lostpedia/images/f/f3/3x11_C-4.jpg)
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If the paint is latex, denatured alcohol will disolve it, then use a pressure washer to remove any remains. Withoil based paint that has dried, stripper and pressure washer will do the trick.
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You guys are going about this all wrong. Simple solution. Paint the whole driveway. :D
Naaaa.............(http://www.digsdigs.com/photos/Paving-Stone-Driveway-design-ideas-3.jpg) :D
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^^^
That is a simply beautiful drive right there.
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Having worked with concrete for years you sir have a problem that is going to drive you nuts. It will most likely never get done to your satisfaction and anything you try is going to create a problem eventually. Acids will eat away the top layer and everything else will be less than satisfactory. You may have to replace the section if it gets to that point or you could look into staining the concrete to match the color or at least cover it up for the most part.
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(http://static3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20070309191747/lostpedia/images/f/f3/3x11_C-4.jpg)
Ummmmmmmmmmmmm do we want to know where you took that picture :noid
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gasoline should take it off...if you use any type of acid be sure to have a bucket of water handy to neutralize the acid after it has set there and boiled for a min...remember people use muriatic acid to etch concrete
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You get what you pay for. :old: That's why I will do most of the work around my house no one cares about the quality as much as I.
Waiting 2 years was the problem. You have to be quick in dealing with problems like that.
I've used some of the floor paint with the sprinkle bits you spread around it works quite well if you really clean the surface.
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I've used some of the floor paint with the sprinkle bits you spread around it works quite well if you really clean the surface.
That's a really great tip :aok ...If your going to repaint the concrete using those paint chip sprinkles will really hide a lot...but be sure the paint you buy is a true concrete floor paint not just a floor paint...we ran into this at the lumberyard I worked at a while back...we painted the floor using a floor paint on a concrete floor with the paint chip sprinkles and after 3 coats and it drying for a considerable amount of time when we swept...off came the sprinkles :lol ...and after about 5 weeks of foot traffic and a rain we ended up having to order a concrete/garage floor paint...(there is a big difference)....added more sprinkles and it worked and hid all of the imperfections in the floor....the name of that garage floor paint is like TUFF FLOOR or something to that effect...that other brand we used first, Valspar, was more expensive and looked better, it just didn't work...we later determined that the concrete was sweating so bad it caused the first coats of paint to come off...when a person walked across it you could see their footprints :lol ...but after we used the TUFF FLOOR paint this didn't occur
That TUFF FLOOR is a really good product and you can get it for different applications, like driveways or interior garage floors...be wary of what you buy from Home Depot or Lowes as that stuff they sell there is junk name brand or not
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Ummmmmmmmmmmmm do we want to know where you took that picture :noid
:noid
The walls have no voices
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:noid
The walls have no voices
That thing goes off....the walls will have no walls..... :D
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I have a gallon of some sort of bacterial or enzyme based solution. I will say that I did use it on the shop floor and it removed roughly 35 years of oil stains satisfactorily.
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That thing goes off....the walls will have no walls..... :D
Then the walls can not talk anymore.
BOOM...good wall :rofl
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I have a gallon of some sort of bacterial or enzyme based solution. I will say that I did use it on the shop floor and it removed roughly 35 years of oil stains satisfactorily.
The enzymes usually work on organic stuff like blood etc. which is why it's the weapon of choice when cleaning ambulances, hearses or cars with persons rot and died in them. On paint that may not even effect at all.
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The enzymes usually work on organic stuff like blood etc. which is why it's the weapon of choice when cleaning ambulances, hearses or cars with persons rot and died in them. On paint that may not even effect at all.
my gf who worked on er for many years says that's not entirely accurate as to weapon of choice. then again we dont live in the same country, so what is used in yours, may not be what is used in ours, or in our region as a matter of fact.
semp
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In my country, we put fermented horse urine and it take way all stain big and small.. :banana:
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Steam it
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my gf who worked on er for many years says that's not entirely accurate as to weapon of choice. then again we dont live in the same country, so what is used in yours, may not be what is used in ours, or in our region as a matter of fact.
semp
They're probably not used in ERs where the stains are fresh. If something has rot like a cadaver, the stench is almost impossible to remove unless you use an enzyme based special detergent. They say that even that won't help if someone died in their car - it will smell like death forever.
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Believe mythbusters did that with a pig
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The enzymes usually work on organic stuff like blood etc. which is why it's the weapon of choice when cleaning ambulances, hearses or cars with persons rot and died in them. On paint that may not even effect at all.
This stuff is made specifically to eat up oil and oil based stuff.
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This stuff is made specifically to eat up oil and oil based stuff.
I've read about those! It's amazing how enzymes and bacteria can change their digestion to utilize stuff that would have killed them some generations ago! If and when the human race will remove itself from the food chain, nature seems to have the ability to heal itself in no time. Just think about what kind of a paradise some space travelling aliens would find after we've left... With some luck they'd be some ammonia breathing turtles accustomed to a sub-zero climate, wanting to make it like home.
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paint a 109 over it.
next problem!
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Steam it
This. Completely chemical free and safe unless your an idiot and burn yourself
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Rot. Use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone). It will remove the paint but will not eat any of the concrete. Use gloves, you won't believe how this stuff can dry out your skin. Put the MEK on a cloth and scrub the paint off. As the old paint gets on the cloth, put more MEK on a fresh area and do it again. Keep "turning" the cloth or you will just be smearing the old paint around.
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Thanks everybody.
Zoney I'll have to check that out.
I'm thin on time lately, maybe I can research it this weekend.
:salute
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I've read about those! It's amazing how enzymes and bacteria can change their digestion to utilize stuff that would have killed them some generations ago! If and when the human race will remove itself from the food chain, nature seems to have the ability to heal itself in no time. Just think about what kind of a paradise some space travelling aliens would find after we've left... With some luck they'd be some ammonia breathing turtles accustomed to a sub-zero climate, wanting to make it like home.
Actually crude oil is 100% natural :) They found this oil eating bacteria in some cave IIRC.