Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Help and Training => Topic started by: RotBaron on April 11, 2014, 07:23:05 AM
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Just got a new logitech 3d, this one is very stiff, I'm sure it will break in. However, I can't hold steady on a target, on way back from sortie was trying to hold steady on barns, bushes, etc. to no avail.
What do each/all of those buttons to adjust scaling correspond with? What will help me correct this problem?
TIA
:salute
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Try the default scaling on the pitch axis. See if that helps. If it's a twisty stick use default scaling on the rudder axis too. Set deadband and damping to 0. If the auto pilot won't stay on add a little deadband.
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I might be wrong... as I don't mess around with scaling much, but my understanding of scaling is as follows..
I'll use elevator as an example.
consider each individual slider bar as an elevator position on your plane. So if there are 4 sliders, the first would be 1/4 elevator, second would be 1/2 elevator, third 3/4 and fourth would be full.
( I know there are more than that)
now the position of the slider on each bar corresponds to where your joystick is in relation to the elevator position. so if the first slider is all the way down, you will reach 1/4 elevator with very little movement of the stick,
if you move the slider 1/2 way up the scale, you will require more stick input before your elevator reaches the 1/4 position. you can adjust the sliders for the amount of input you want, to reach a desired response
for that axis. keeping them equally spaced from first at bottom to last all the way up, would require you to use the full range of motion of your joystick, while tightly grouping them near the bottom would allow you to gain full
elevator while barely moving your stick forward. tightly grouping them near the top, would require you to move your joystick almost full forward before any elevator movement happens, but then just a little bit more input would
give you full elevator.
As I said I might be wrong, and have this reversed where the sliders represent joystick position.. but it's the same basic principle.
I disagree with rudder dead band on a twisty stick. most people will accidently use rudder while fighting, especially while squeezing trigger. Morfeind pointed this out to me in the TA. very easy to do, and I never realized I was doing it. made it hard for me to stay on target, and also robbed my E. add dead band to your rudder axis if you use a twisty.
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Scaling is demonstrated on the page where you set scaling. You can see the effect of changing the sliders. No need to guess what they do. When the sliders are all at the top there is no scaling even when scaling is checked.
Good point about the rudder deadband. It should have minimal deadband but it will likely be more than the joystick.
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Thanks much for the info gentlemen.
:salute
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Try trimming nose down so you're holding back pressure on the stick while lining up for the shot. This may help with that pesky stick bounce issue. "tecnique only". :salute
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Last year I was in Houston a few months and packed along my laptop and bought a Log 3D while there. The stick is VERY tight on default scaling and tighter with none. You need a very light touch.
I've been using a CH Fighsterstick at home for ages. It's VERY smooth and the deadband is way more too my liking. Just sayin'
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Last year I was in Houston a few months and packed along my laptop and bought a Log 3D while there. The stick is VERY tight on default scaling and tighter with none. You need a very light touch.
I've been using a CH Fighsterstick at home for ages. It's VERY smooth and the deadband is way more too my liking. Just sayin'
I don't understand what your sayin' about deadband. Deadband is a setting not a stick quality.
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The Fighterstick with default deadband has just enough play with minimal, if any, nose bounce. The 3D (same deadband) provides almost no "throw" .
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I used to fix my CH sticks when they got sloppy by capping the center post with the metal end cap from a bicycle cable housing. It just happened to be a perfect fit to take the play out and reduce the wear and tear.
If you trim nose down as Puma suggested then the center play won't affect your shooting.
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I used to fix my CH sticks when they got sloppy by capping the center post with the metal end cap from a bicycle cable housing. It just happened to be a perfect fit to take the play out and reduce the wear and tear.
You can also wrap a rubber band around the gimble and base of the stick to when the CH stick gets sloppy.
ack-ack