Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Technical Support => Topic started by: Kenne on July 25, 2014, 08:50:32 PM
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this happens a lot.
driving m3 to resupply. want to drive thru a gap in trees.
slight R pressure on rudder pedals and the M3 yaws towards the gap.
but when I release the pedals, instead of the M3 staying on the new direction, it veers
back to the left and then slightly towards the right.
so in order for me to 'aim' for the gap in the tress, I have to aim the GV
towards the right hand side of the gap in order to, when upon release
of the controls, the GV will then veer to the left to stay on desired course.
I can imagine this happening in the air, as air is a virtual liquid, but on the ground!
a real car doesnt veer to the left after a lane change to the right.
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Sounds like either your calibration is off, and you need to re-calibrate your stuff OR your pot is getting worn and yo will need to add some dead band to compensate.
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it's nothing like that fugitive. he's right. however, he also missed a point. you need to point the gv for a few seconds in the right direction before it does and you can let go. just like in a real car. just because you turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and let it go, it doesnt mean it will keep going to the right.
semp
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See Rule #4
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See Rule #4
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See Rule #4
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See Rule #4
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See Rule #4
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this happens a lot.
driving m3 to resupply. want to drive thru a gap in trees.
slight R pressure on rudder pedals and the M3 yaws towards the gap.
but when I release the pedals, instead of the M3 staying on the new direction, it veers
back to the left and then slightly towards the right.
so in order for me to 'aim' for the gap in the tress, I have to aim the GV
towards the right hand side of the gap in order to, when upon release
of the controls, the GV will then veer to the left to stay on desired course.
I can imagine this happening in the air, as air is a virtual liquid, but on the ground!
a real car doesnt veer to the left after a lane change to the right.
sounds like an alignment problem to me, take your half track into town, (freindly not bombed out) and stop into the Midas service center, no appointment needed most days, 3401 SW Skuzzy drive, tell them I sent you!
Or you could reduce your input from the rudders when your turning a bit,, try tuning it for a jeep at full speed, open the advanced section to tune it and reduce the Imputs a little at a time,, make sure your setting "mode two" for GVs
The M3, jeeps and M8s all drive pretty poorly at high speed, much like the original vehicles they are designed after, they aren't race cars, slow down a bit when entering the Forrest !
Third option; give me a shout in game or PM and I'll go to the TA and help you with it!
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See Rule #4
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Fugitive is always here to help. Glad we have people like him around.
Yep, he his the real deal.
Coogan
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What the OP is describing is called an underdamped feedback system. It has nothing whatsoever to do with control drifting or spiking; it's part of the code. You can't actually steer AH vehicles anymore. You can only try to set a new "autopilot" like heading. The software then oscillates about that heading because the feedback code is underdamped. Just like the OP described, if you turn right, when you center the control, i.e. stop commanding a right turn, the system slews back to the left, then back right a bit less etc., then settles on a heading that is quite a bit to the left of the heading you wanted. It is intentional (for reasons I don't understand). However, you can intentionally fool the feedback loop. It's easier to do this using the keyboard to steer. For example to turn to the right hold the D key down until you are heading in the direction you wish then quickly and briefly tap the A key. This resets the autoheading control loop and reduces the over/under shoot oscillation.
Most people don't understand or even notice this problem. However, it drives me crazy (but then that is a short trip).
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"S" is the default key for centering the rudder.
It's worth a try.
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I noticed this happening in GVs as well, but I was always under the assumption that it was to compensate for the short comings of driving with the keyboard.
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What the OP is describing is called an underdamped feedback system. It has nothing whatsoever to do with control drifting or spiking; it's part of the code. You can't actually steer AH vehicles anymore. You can only try to set a new "autopilot" like heading. The software then oscillates about that heading because the feedback code is underdamped. Just like the OP described, if you turn right, when you center the control, i.e. stop commanding a right turn, the system slews back to the left, then back right a bit less etc., then settles on a heading that is quite a bit to the left of the heading you wanted. It is intentional (for reasons I don't understand). However, you can intentionally fool the feedback loop. It's easier to do this using the keyboard to steer. For example to turn to the right hold the D key down until you are heading in the direction you wish then quickly and briefly tap the A key. This resets the autoheading control loop and reduces the over/under shoot oscillation.
Most people don't understand or even notice this problem. However, it drives me crazy (but then that is a short trip).
can this manifest itself in aircraft?
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can this manifest itself in aircraft?
I do not believe so. AH gives you direct control of aircraft. With vehicles you used to have direct control, but now you only have control of a sort of autopilot. For example, you can no longer change gears, you can only set a desired speed setpoint which the autopilot attempts to maintain, automatically changing the gears in the process (and often oscillating annoyingly between two gear settings).
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I do not believe so. AH gives you direct control of aircraft. With vehicles you used to have direct control, but now you only have control of a sort of autopilot. For example, you can no longer change gears, you can only set a desired speed setpoint which the autopilot attempts to maintain, automatically changing the gears in the process (and often oscillating annoyingly between two gear settings).
ok, I only ask because no matter how hi I set my pitch damper, the slightest movement of the stick makes for large changes in pitch :(
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To fix that you want to change the stick scaling plot not the damper setting. I did this so long ago that I forgot how it works but it's something like dragging the points of the scaling plot so that at low stick deflection the stick scaling is less sensitive, i.e. near the center a medium movement of the stick creates a very small movement of the control surface. Your scaling plot should not be a straight line across the top at 100%; it should be down around say 30% on the left rising to 100% on the right.
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well, the scaling is at 'default'
so it stair steps from L to R.