Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: XxDaSTaRxx on January 05, 2015, 02:38:34 PM
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Welp, on the way into town this morning, hit a patch of black ice. Truck fishtailed and spun 180 degrees, and slammed into a few small trees in a treeline. Both myself and my brother were unharmed. Insurance won't cover her. Off to the junkyard she goes today, after 10+ long years. :cry
(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10888444_903526269680472_7888690915596136267_n.jpg?oh=f898eb2079ef22fe7755cf6e92945a66&oe=553853F3)
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nobody hurt. :aok
I dive slower with the experience i've gained. 35 mph is Fast on ice. 4wd is a must. :old:
when its this cold you can count on the salt not holding through the night. shadows help to retain the cold as well.
Better luck in the future and watch out for those other crazy people called drivers. :bolt:
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That's "totaled"? Another one is; What was in the back of your truck?
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Sorry to hear about your truck. I sold my '01 Tundra about two years ago for a bit over 9k. Good truck.
That's "totaled"? Another one is; What was in the back of your truck?
"totaled" as defined by the insurance company means "it will cost more to fix than we think the vehicle is worth" not "it is so smashed there is no way to realistically make it driveable again".
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That's "totaled"? Another one is; What was in the back of your truck?
There is more there. Chassis damage, and the rear end of the truck is pretty much scrap metal.
Wasn't carrying anything other than a spare tire in the bed. Karnak is right, it is a common misconception. She is still able to drive, we could even get her unstuck with her own power.
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There is more there. Chassis damage, and the rear end of the truck is pretty much scrap metal.
>Wasn't carrying anything other than a spare tire in the bed.< Karnak is right, it is a common misconception. She is still able to drive, we could even get her unstuck with her own power.
You should have had some weight in the back. 4+ sandbags or more in the back would likely have prevented your tail from breaking loose so easily. Even a 4wd truck will have an issue with a light tail. In the end, your tail is light and the highly likely end to break loose on ice. I had 4 50lb bags of dirt in the back when I was in Wyoming during winter, and it made a difference. Of course, this doesn't mean you can drive normally. Still have to take your time.
Sorry to hear about your truck. I sold my '01 Tundra about two years ago for a bit over 9k. Good truck.
"totaled" as defined by the insurance company means "it will cost more to fix than we think the vehicle is worth" not "it is so smashed there is no way to realistically make it driveable again".
He said it was totaled, not that his insurance logged it as such. He only mentioned that insurance won't cover. As far as I am aware, liability insurance wouldn't cover something like this anyways. He mentioned his truck is 10 yrs old, which I've yet to know an insurance company that would've fully covered her unless he was making payments to a bank. Also, I only had that picture to go off of, which is why I asked. I see folks around here driving around with their vehicles in worse shape than what I see in the picture.
Got any more pictures, or can you take anymore Dast?
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You should have had some weight in the back. 4+ sandbags or more in the back would likely have prevented your tail from breaking loose so easily. Even a 4wd truck will have an issue with a light tail. In the end, your tail is light and the highly likely end to break loose on ice. I had 4 50lb bags of dirt in the back when I was in Wyoming during winter, and it made a difference. Of course, this doesn't mean you can drive normally. Still have to take your time.
He said it was totaled, not that his insurance logged it as such. He only mentioned that insurance won't cover. As far as I am aware, liability insurance wouldn't cover something like this anyways. He mentioned his truck is 10 yrs old, which I've yet to know an insurance company that would've fully covered her unless he was making payments to a bank. Also, I only had that picture to go off of, which is why I asked. I see folks around here driving around with their vehicles in worse shape than what I see in the picture.
Got any more pictures, or can you take anymore Dast?
I've got one more of the rear left headlight being busted, but none of the chassis damage. I didn't realize it was a problem until we got it home. I didn't think to take any pictures.
I'll try to snap some and post em here tomorrow morning, she's still out in the driveway until we decide what to do with it. Right side where we impacted trees, that area is FUBAR. Entirely dented in and the headlight is somewhere in the treeline where she crashed.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/xxdastarxx1/truck_zpscef5f787.jpg)
EDIT: License plate numbers removed, thanks Volron :aok
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I drive a 2013 short bed quad cab Z71. Even with 4WD it is easy to lose traction on ice. There is no weight what so ever in the rear end. That raises a question with me. Would it really be that hard for the designers to add some ballast in the rear end, or even center the weight better? My 2006 Z71 had a after market rear bumper that was much heavier than the stock bumper, and it drove excellent on ice with the 4WD.
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Might want to blot out the license plate number. Just about every picture of a vehicle I've seen posted here had the plates blotted. :)
That being said and dependent on more pictures, if the frame is damaged/bent, you may be able to repair her. Of course it'll cost you a lot if you wish to do body work as well. But if the body isn't that bad, you could forgo that and just replace what is needed. I still have body damage on my Pontiac from when someone hit and ran on me a few years ago. I only needed to repair the L rear suspension and replace the tire (lucked out on rim not being borked). Only cost me a grand. It would have been 2500+ if I had the body work done. But there wasn't anything that damaged the paint. Just a little crumple/dent on L rear fender/panel. If your frame is borked though, yeah. Time for a new/used truck.
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I drive a 2013 short bed quad cab Z71. Even with 4WD it is easy to lose traction on ice. There is no weight what so ever in the rear end. That raises a question with me. Would it really be that hard for the designers to add some ballast in the rear end, or even center the weight better? My 2006 Z71 had a after market rear bumper that was much heavier than the stock bumper, and it drove excellent on ice with the 4WD.
It is a truck and designed to carry weight. So when you don't it doesn't grip the same. And the bumper makes sense as it is extra weight as far back as possible.
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When it comes to driving on ICE, 4WD doesn't help. Siping on tires, does a little bit.
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Man, that sucks that the insurance company won't cover the damages.
I'd look at a different insurance company if it were me. I totalled my old work truck back in '09; it was a 1990 Chevy K1500 I had bought just for getting me to work on the rig and back. Paid $750 for it when I got it. I insisted on comp and collision, the comp due to the number of deer running around the area where I worked. Sure enough, coming home from work one evening, I nailed a deer and it demolished the front end. Insurance company totalled the truck and sent me a check for $3500 and allowed me to keep the pile of metal that used to be my work truck. I salvaged what I wanted (engine and transmission and other odds and ends) and sold the body for $500.
Don't get the bare minimum amount of insurance you are legally required to have; assess the risks you encounter and insure your vehicles accordingly. If you current insurance company won't give you the coverage you want or need, find another company.
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When it comes to driving on ICE, 4WD doesn't help. Siping on tires, does a little bit.
If its that bad you should not be on the road. :lol
in that sense studs or chains would would be nice.
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He said it was totaled, not that his insurance logged it as such. He only mentioned that insurance won't cover. As far as I am aware, liability insurance wouldn't cover something like this anyways. He mentioned his truck is 10 yrs old, which I've yet to know an insurance company that would've fully covered her unless he was making payments to a bank. Also, I only had that picture to go off of, which is why I asked. I see folks around here driving around with their vehicles in worse shape than what I see in the picture.
Got any more pictures, or can you take anymore Dast?
I'm an Adjuster for an insurance company.....there are many companies and policy's that will cover a vech bumper to bumper comp and collision....age of the vech means nothing. I have an 04 Silverado that is 100% covered if I hit something or someone...or if something or someone hits me. She's mine free and clear, having a loan on the truck doesn't affect coverage either way...it's all in the policy you purchase
I've only ever owned 4wd trucks....4wd on ice only means that all 4 tires are going to slip. Means nothing. Now n snow it's wonderful, but just because I have 4wd I still take it really easy in bad weather
Sorry to hear about the truck Dast, maybe take her and get an estimate before you junk her
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If its that bad you should not be on the road. :lol
in that sense studs or chains would would be nice.
I was merely countering two posts stating that 4WD helps on ice, when it most definitely does not.
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Don't get the bare minimum amount of insurance you are legally required to have; assess the risks you encounter and insure your vehicles accordingly. If you current insurance company won't give you the coverage you want or need, find another company.
This is my approach to life. If I touch it, it's insured out the rear, because if I touch it, it's probably going to die a horrible fiery death...
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I was merely countering two posts stating that 4WD helps on ice, when it most definitely does not.
4WD does help you get moving, but moving on ice usually isnt the problem.
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I use winter tires, very efficient on icy roads or compact snow; the rubber is softer than regular all season tires in cold weather and gets better grip on surface. The 4x4 traction is great, but without some weight and good grip on road surface is useless, once you start skidding ; some people add extra weight 200-400 lbs sand bags in the box in winter time;
Indiana has also very poor road maintenance, not only in winter , and.... high fuel taxes ; I'm driving I-69 twice/week, the section from Forth Wayne to Indi the worst maintained highway from Toronto to Dallas, all bumps, potholes ;
---Winter Tires v Summer Tires: the Truth! - Auto Express ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elP_34ltdWI
---Winter Tires or 4x4: which is best? - Auto Express https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfuE00qdhLA
..
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I'm an Adjuster for an insurance company.....there are many companies and policy's that will cover a vech bumper to bumper comp and collision....age of the vech means nothing. I have an 04 Silverado that is 100% covered if I hit something or someone...or if something or someone hits me. She's mine free and clear, having a loan on the truck doesn't affect coverage either way...it's all in the policy you purchase
I've only ever owned 4wd trucks....4wd on ice only means that all 4 tires are going to slip. Means nothing. Now n snow it's wonderful, but just because I have 4wd I still take it really easy in bad weather
Sorry to hear about the truck Dast, maybe take her and get an estimate before you junk her
Oh? Wonder if USAA will fully cover my car after it's paid off. :headscratch: I'll need to ask.
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Oh? Wonder if USAA will fully cover my car after it's paid off. :headscratch: I'll need to ask.
Bar none USAA is one of the best insurance companies out there. Prior to being an adjuster I did disaster reconstruction/estimating....I never had a USAA customer that didn't have anything but positive things to say......and as the guy doing the work for them, it was a pleasure working for them and their insds.
Let's put it this way, I handle very large property claims for my company, and have worked with 30+ insurance company's in my reconstruction days, if I qualified to get USAA insurance (I'm not former military) they would be the ones I'd have on my home/auto.......although I have Chubb and they are excellent.
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I was merely countering two posts stating that 4WD helps on ice, when it most definitely does not.
Sure, speed and ultimately grip is most important when driving on slick conditions. Not driving is best, and the more speed you obtain the worse the outcome of losing grip.
When driving in slick conditions it is my experience that 4WD offers the best stability. This followed by FWD and last RWD. When driving a RWD truck it is best practice to put it in 4WD under slick driving conditions. The benefits of having all four wheels driving include the pulling action of the front tires to limit the washout effect of spinning rear tires. If you want to have fun doing doughnuts and fishtails keep it 2WD and hammer the gas! :lol
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Try to sell it on ebay. You see quite some vehicles there that some buy for parts or even salvage titles. You might get a few thousands.
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Sure, speed and ultimately grip is most important when driving on slick conditions. Not driving is best, and the more speed you obtain the worse the outcome of losing grip.
When driving in slick conditions it is my experience that 4WD offers the best stability. This followed by FWD and last RWD. When driving a RWD truck it is best practice to put it in 4WD under slick driving conditions. The benefits of having all four wheels driving include the pulling action of the front tires to limit the washout effect of spinning rear tires. If you want to have fun doing doughnuts and fishtails keep it 2WD and hammer the gas! :lol
Ice is completely different than snow, slush, etc. Ice offers little to no traction and is my only point. I have done a great deal of wheeling and attended rally school back in the mid to late 90's. Ice throws everything out of the window.
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Relax, I can fix it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUwSy-w8Apw
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Ice is completely different than snow, slush, etc. Ice offers little to no traction and is my only point. I have done a great deal of wheeling and attended rally school back in the mid to late 90's. Ice throws everything out of the window.
yeah, and if the roads are that bad you should not be on the roads. :bhead
So I should ask, what would be your preferred vehicle configuration to drive on ice?
Id go with 4WD and studded tires. :old:
Looking at the conditions for the OP id go with slowdown and keep it in 4WD. :salute
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Oh? Wonder if USAA will fully cover my car after it's paid off. :headscratch: I'll need to ask.
They will. I have a 2006 Toyota RAV 4 that's been paid off since day one insured with USAA for full replacement value, comprehensive and collision. And I can second that they're GREAT to work with. I've had a few collisions (One my fault, one someone PLOWED through it in a parking lot) and all I had to do was call and say I had a claim. They contacted a repair company, scheduled the drop off, had a rental waiting for me, very few questions asked and my rate didn't go up either time.
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Id go with 4WD and studded tires. :old:
That combo has worked for me the last 42 years and I've never been in the ditch (except to avoid a collision, and didn't get stuck) or involved in an accident (other than being rear-ended by a teenage girl with no respect for glare ice).
Of course every new winter storm I see a slew of 4WD/AWD vehicles off the road due to lousy driving.
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Oh? Wonder if USAA will fully cover my car after it's paid off. :headscratch: I'll need to ask.
I'm paying for full coverage on my paid off yukon xl with usaa.
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They will. I have a 2006 Toyota RAV 4 that's been paid off since day one insured with USAA for full replacement value, comprehensive and collision. And I can second that they're GREAT to work with. I've had a few collisions (One my fault, one someone PLOWED through it in a parking lot) and all I had to do was call and say I had a claim. They contacted a repair company, scheduled the drop off, had a rental waiting for me, very few questions asked and my rate didn't go up either time.
Have your front shocks locked up rock solid yet?
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When it comes to driving on ICE, 4WD doesn't help. Siping on tires, does a little bit.
I have installed Treadwright tires with Kedge Grip compound on my Jeep for the winter.
Kedge Grip is a rubber compound that contains crushed walnut shell and ground glass. The tread surface feels like sandpaper, and when the walnut and glass come out, they leave behind a gozillion edges to bite the snow. So far this year, I've had two chances to drive on ice and packed snow. Very impressed. They grip the ice and packed snow much better than my Mud-Terrains (which were well siped). Come spring, I'll jack up the Jeep and swap out these tires for a new set of Cooper SSTs on aftermarket wheels. I'll store the Treadwrights for the next winter....
My Cooper S/Ts were great in deep snow. So-so on packed snow, not good on ice...
(https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/134392_1795382929726_2313123_o.jpg)
The Treadwrights were surprisingly good in deep sand, and adequate in mud. They are excellent (relatively) on packed snow, and grab as well or better on ice than my studded Dick Cepek tires (on my old YJ).
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/10549032_10204605028911047_7165980933792269276_o.jpg)
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When it comes to driving on ICE, 4WD doesn't help. Siping on tires, does a little bit.
I would beg to differ. 4WD makes a huge difference on Ice, but it requires you to drive in a responsible manner.
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I would beg to differ. 4WD makes a huge difference on Ice, but it requires you to drive in a responsible manner.
Exactly. 4WD makes a huge difference compared to 2WD to those who understand it. It makes little difference to those who think it allows them to drive normally.
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I found a manual transmission also helped. (15yrs driving a 4WD)
The number of 4WDs in accidents after the 1st snowfall is hilarious. They weren't driving responsibly.
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To think the WRC drivers who instruct others, have been doing it wrong for decades. :rofl
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The problem with 4WD is that due to its higher inertia forces when you lose control of a 4WD it's much harder to control than a sliding 2WD one.
But this problem should affect only very crude and old 4WD models which lack ESP. I pushed my Mercedes 4Matic and Jeep Commander to four wheel slides regularly but after a second of 'crunch crunch brakes' later the car was going steady again.
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The problem with 4WD is that due to its higher inertia forces when you lose control of a 4WD it's much harder to control than a sliding 2WD one.
But this problem should affect only very crude and old 4WD models which lack ESP. I pushed my Mercedes 4Matic and Jeep Commander to four wheel slides regularly but after a second of 'crunch crunch brakes' later the car was going steady again.
Back on '08, I bought a new Jeep Wrangler. I left it unmodified for the first year. Even with the factory Goodyear Wrangler SR-A tires, it was stellar in snow. Largely due to the ESP and traction control. In 6" of snow, you just mash the go-pedal to the floor and allow the computer to regulate power and control tire slippage. No drama, not even a hint of wheel spin... It just went... Braking was another story, but the ESP and ABS did their job, and stopping, while long in distance, was straight and well controlled.
I was driving down a county road, a divided roadway, but not limited access. Plenty of intersections with traffic lights. It was snowing heavily and there was about 6" of wet, slushy snow on the road surface. No plows had been seen yet. I was stopped at a light at the entrance to a shopping mall. A blue Subaru WRX STi chugs up alongside. The light changed to green and the WRX inched forward. Its tires were clearly not working in the snow, probably because they were a summer compound and tread design. You could see and hear the traction control working to get a bite in the snow. As the Subaru struggled to get underway, I simply pushed down the throttle pedal and left. Within about 10 seconds, I was doing 40 mph and the WRX was barely across the intersection. I have seen this many times. Ultimately, it comes down to two factors... Electronics and tires, especially tires. The best traction control system on earth doesn't help when the tires won't work. The electronics can't control traction if there isn't any traction to control....
The next winter saw the Jeep fitted with a set of Cooper S/T hybrid tires. Hybrids offer an outer tread design like a very high void mud-terrain tire, while the inner tread is more of an all-terrain type. The combination works well on any surface or conditions. Not as good in deep mud as the mud-terrain, they are much better than those in winter conditions.
Almost three years ago, we had a major storm that dropped over 30 inches of very cold, dry snow. Throughout the area, thousands of cars and SUVs were stuck on the roads. Over two feet had fallen in less than three hours, and less than a foot had been predicted by the weather guessers. Long Island can have tremendous blizzards. Being an island on the Atlantic coast, there is a limitless supply of moisture to fuel storms. Almost no roads had been plowed. The depth of the snow made it impossible for light trucks to move it. Thus, most of the contract plow drivers and their pick-up trucks were useless. The majority of those could not even get out of their own neighborhoods. Thus, clearing the roads became the job of large, multi-axle trucks and earth moving front loaders and payloaders. The problem was, there were very few of those relative to the tens of thousands of miles of local roads. Compounding the problem were the many abandoned cars and SUVs blocking the roads and intersections. This storm generated high winds as well. Some roads may have snow coverage of less than a foot in one section, and drifts higher than 6 feet in other areas. Snow depth was utterly non-uniform. Ultimately, it was a massive problem for the local towns and counties to deal with. Some neighborhoods were not plowed for four days.
Hours after the snow stopped falling, most locals had their driveways cleared. I have a large, powerful industrial type of snow thrower (made by Husqvarna). Within three hours, my large driveway was cleared down to the tarmac. I even cleared the street in front of my house, so that I could move the cars into the road to finish the driveway. I pulled the two cars into the driveway and parked the Jeep at the bottom. As I finished this task, I saw a large Ford F-350, quadcab pick-up struggling down the road. The driver was blasting forward through the snow until the truck bogged. Then we would back up and attack the snow again. I immediately recognized this as a very poor technique. The driver risks climbing on top of the snow, unloading the tires and getting stuck. About 50 feet short of where I had cleared the road, he did precisely that. The big diesel V8 howled, the tires spun, but he was stuck fast. The driver climbs out and struggling to walk in waist-deep snow, starts to shovel around the wheels. It does no good. I took the snow thrower out of the garage, and started clearing the snow in front of the big Ford. It took about 20 minutes to carve a wide, snow-free path to the front bumper of the truck. Even so, the Ford was going nowhere for now. I chugged the snow thrower up the slope of the driveway, back into the garage. Grabbing my recovery strap, I pulled my Jeep into the road and backed down the clear path I had made. I looped the strap through a shackle on the Jeep and secured it to the Ford. Using low range and locking my differentials, I pulled the truck from its snow-bound prison.
I offered the Ford driver some solid advice. I told him that his method of driving was not a good one. I also told him that his highway type of truck tires were not very good in this type of deep snow. He explained that he really had to get to work. My opinion was that he should make a three-point u-turn in the clearing I had made, and drive back to his house in his own tracks and stay there until the road was plowed. He declined my advice. Using the 100 or so feet of cleared road, he powered ahead, building speed and crashed into the snow again. The Ford went barely 50 yards, when it rode up on the snow as before and came to a halt. My good deed quota for the day was met. I wasn't going to spend another two hours getting him free again. He had his opportunity to go home, and he made yet another bad decision. I offered to drive him home in the Jeep. He declined that too, and walked home in his own tire tracks.
Later that afternoon, I drove my neighbor four miles to an open pharmacy to get needed medication for his wife. We also stopped at an open supermarket and loaded up on groceries. Employees at these stores were snowed in at work for the time being. So, the stores simply stayed open. It took more than two hours to get there and back. The Jeep performed perfectly in the deep snow. I used low range (which switches off the traction control and ESP), but took my time allowing the tires to claw through the snow. I got through drifts as high as the top of the Jeep's hood. It was uneventful in that the tires were designed for these conditions and I took advantage of my 40 years of snow driving experience. The lockers provided maximum power transfer, even if they made turning more of challenge. The biggest issue for us was the abandoned vehicles that blocked almost every intersection. I drove across several front yards of homes to get around the obstacles. Once on the major roads, the going was better. The snow had been beaten down by Jeeps, Hummers and a few large plow trucks.
That Ford F-350 stayed where it was for another two days.... Tires and technique... I'll say it over and over again.....
(https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/421420_10200684672424585_1696526932_n.jpg?oh=8287dae74ba6c3ea15259e3c4a164a59&oe=556BC32D)
Our first winter with the Jeep... Only 24"-26" of snow. No issues with the factory tires... Not as good as the hybrids, but good enough.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10391835_1296676142368_1780776_n.jpg?oh=94f4d769888c8e7d5ec8654d2e7fca60&oe=553177E7&__gda__=1433372234_b03d3aa2b04db304060cc0ba63281d3e)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10391835_1296676182369_1009556_n.jpg?oh=77cc676a3bc9b8057d84fa2842bc1b39&oe=552AEE93&__gda__=1428241726_3415839ba415830c2c112b4065432529)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10391835_1296676062366_422020_n.jpg?oh=096fd180d22119817d4094fc9455d2c0&oe=5541CAE4&__gda__=1429840891_10aa9957a9ecc3717c5fa357bcdd0070)
Going out to play in the snow...
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/132420_1795382049704_2184479_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/l/t31.0-8/170391_1795382609718_1898266_o.jpg)
Of course, a Wrangler is fun in the summer too....
(https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/36769_1512478377289_3968893_n.jpg?oh=f8eb7b538599b50c77bff962d969304f&oe=552E1123)
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With some good winter tyres its not too hard to drive on snow and ice, tyres with spikes is preferable imo.
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I've just watched this in news here, over 150 vehicles pile-up in Michigan today, I-94; one of the trucks involved was loaded with fireworks; i got stuck many times in lake effect snow on this section south of lake Michigan I-94 Indiana/Western Michigan , from Gary to Kalamazoo;
http://www.clickondetroit.com/news/report-90car-pileup-on-i94-in-west-michigan/30614946
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Just a couple more videos from I-94 pileup as it happened; terrifying, :pray
;no joke driving on snow and ice, ; I can be the best driver , drive the best car 4x4, best tires if the drivers around don't have the same features and skills :pray
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDb_MENTSE0#t=50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Qdeke9MFGI
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Just a couple more videos from I-94 pileup as it happened; terrifying, :pray
;no joke driving on snow and ice, ; I can be the best driver , drive the best car 4x4, best tires if the drivers around don't have the same features and skills :pray
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDb_MENTSE0#t=50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Qdeke9MFGI
That reminds me of a saying I believe it was by Ron White but I could be wrong, something to the effect of "Being able to stop 15 feet shorter than the car behind you doesn't really help the situation."
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Just a couple more videos from I-94 pileup as it happened; terrifying, :pray
;no joke driving on snow and ice, ; I can be the best driver , drive the best car 4x4, best tires if the drivers around don't have the same features and skills :pray
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDb_MENTSE0#t=50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Qdeke9MFGI
All I see is a bunch of idiots.. Why in the hell would anyone be driving that fast on roads like that. 2015 may be young but the darwin award of the year goes to everyone on that highway.
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Holy Chit! I actually just watched the video Ghi posted. My stomach was clenched as you know there is nothing those people can do. When that last semi plowed in I wonder how many people died. So so sad. :frown:
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Holy Chit! I actually just watched the video Ghi posted. My stomach was clenched as you know there is nothing those people can do. When that last semi plowed in I wonder how many people died. So so sad. :frown:
One dead..... That fast moving semi was mind boggling... Looked to be doing upwards of 70 mph in 30 mph conditions... Can't fix stupid.
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This board never ceases to amaze me.
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One dead..... That fast moving semi was mind boggling... Looked to be doing upwards of 70 mph in 30 mph conditions... Can't fix stupid.
Can't fixed a moving snow squall. Accident probably started with a car hitting the brakes when it entered the squall. You are damned if you slow down and you are damned if you don't slow down.
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There is more there. Chassis damage, and the rear end of the truck is pretty much scrap metal.
Wasn't carrying anything other than a spare tire in the bed. Karnak is right, it is a common misconception. She is still able to drive, we could even get her unstuck with her own power.
Trucks are the worst vehicles with or with 4WD on fouled roads without some sort of weight in the back end. )Okay, mustangs and camaros are worse, but not much worse)
Let that be a lesson learned for you in regard to future trucks you may own.
I'm assuming the 'frame' was beyond repair? Chassis implies that is was a unibody, which it was not.
Glad no one was hurt. As suggested, put some weight back there, less chance of losing the rear wheels in icey conditions. :rock
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When driving in slick conditions it is my experience that 4WD offers the best stability. This followed by FWD and last RWD. When driving a RWD truck it is best practice to put it in 4WD under slick driving conditions. The benefits of having all four wheels driving include the pulling action of the front tires to limit the washout effect of spinning rear tires.
This is incorrect. In a standard RWD vehicle only one rear wheel drives while in a standard FWD vehicle only one front wheel drives. Similarly, in a standard 4WD vehicle only two wheels drive, one in the front and one in the back. This is done of course due to relative left/right rotation in a corner, where the outside wheel has to travel a longer distance relative to the inside wheel. Regardless, 4WD doubles the traction available vs FWD or RWD.
Furthermore, it used to be that the wheel with the least resistance drove the vehicle. That's why when getting stuck one wheel would spin (the one with no traction) while the other stayed still. In many newer vehicles this has been reversed.
I've owned all three. My Cherokee, which was built specifically for off-roading (Easter Jeep Safari, Dakota Territory Challenge, etc.) had air locking differentials (ARB Air Lockers) which I could independently engage in the front, rear or both to get true 4WD while again, doubling the traction available in a standard 4WD vehicle. I chose ARB air lockers over mechanical lockers specifically because I live in winter snow and ice. I wanted to be absolutely sure that in icy conditions I could totally disengage the left/right locks. Using true 4WD in icy conditions (as opposed to AWD or standard 4WD) is likely the worst possible thing you could do. Your ability to turn the vehicle on ice is reduced to nil.
That said the best options in order are generally 4WD, FWD then RWD. I say generally because weight distribution plays a role. A front engine RWD vehicle is generally worse than a mid or rear engine RWD vehicle. My current daily driver is a 1986 Pontiac Fiero V6 that I've driven in the winter for the past 28 years (40/60 F/R weight distribution). It's really a delight on snow (as long as it's not too deep) and ice as the front wheels wash out before the back end ever thinks about letting loose.
Anyway, I grew up in northern MN near the Canadian border in an era where RWD (or for some more fortunate, 4WD) was the only option. I got used to driving in the worst of conditions. While I admit to being more aggressive in bad conditions than most, I feel I have the experience to drive within the limits of myself, my vehicle and the conditions so as not to put others in harms way.
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Do not most vehicles have some form of a limited slip rear deferential? I know my truck does not like to turn in 4wd. I always assumed the front end was locked in 4wd.
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Many 4 wheel drive vehicles have an open center differential which means you still have one wheel drive.
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Do not most vehicles have some form of a limited slip rear deferential? I know my truck does not like to turn in 4wd. I always assumed the front end was locked in 4wd.
In 2WD you have one rear wheel powering the vehicle. When you engage 4WD you engage the front driveshaft and get one drive wheel at each end. With locking differentials you lock the left and right together at either the front, rear or both. It's always recommended to lock the rears together before locking the fronts together however there are rare instances off-road that it makes sense to do the opposite.
I believe the only production vehicle that comes with standard locking differentials is the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, however they use mechanical locks which are not ideal on ice.
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Toyota has been using lockable differentials as well as torsen and torque biasing differentials for years.
The Toyota FJ cruiser with the 6 speed has front, center, and rear torsen differentials though many toyota/lexus cars will use traction control and open diffs front and rear but many models offer manual locking differentials front, rear and center and have been for a long time.
Toyota owns "torsen".
All of the land cruisers and lexus LX and GX cars are very off road capable and should not be confused with cars that aren't.