Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Help and Training => Topic started by: mikev on November 05, 2015, 12:00:10 AM
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well i tried something new today, seems before when i pulled the trigger it would alter my aim just enough to throw my shot off target so i moved my fire button over to the throttle so it would allow me to hold a more steady stick to keep my shots more on target . it worked for me quite well although as in the video im not ready yet to take on 3 v1 but i made them work a bit.
enjoy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULBCTZkHl0U
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Glad it's working for ya :aok
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There are two obvious issues with your gunnery.
1. - You make deflection shots under E that you do not have the lead to accomplish. 100mph principle compounded by your E state.
2. - Even 400 in a 6 chasing shot is pushing it for a spitfire. Dispersion is making your efforts a low probability of success. A P51D or 47 yes.
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There are two obvious issues with your gunnery.
1. - You make deflection shots under E that you do not have the lead to accomplish. 100mph principle compounded by your E state.
2. - Even 400 in a 6 chasing shot is pushing it for a spitfire. Dispersion is making your efforts a low probability of success. A P51D or 47 yes.
What do you mean Bustr?
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I have a two position trigger on my joystick. For the P-38, it should be perfect. The four 50s then full pull to get all guns. Like you though, pulling the trigger hard enough to get the cannons to fire, makes for a ridged grasp on the joystick.
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There are two obvious issues with your gunnery.
1. - You make deflection shots under E that you do not have the lead to accomplish. 100mph principle compounded by your E state.
2. - Even 400 in a 6 chasing shot is pushing it for a spitfire. Dispersion is making your efforts a low probability of success. A P51D or 47 yes.
1. - He dove into a con which increased his speed, pulled to shoot lead, increased his E, then shot without enough lead to account for both conditions. I suspect he may not have pulled his throttle full back just before pulling the lead. It might have helped get a few rounds on the con. He was too late in general.
2. - Spits have horrible dispersion past 300 when you want two hispano to do the job at that range. For shooting long distance runners, 400-600, use a P51D or P47.
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I have a two position trigger on my joystick. For the P-38, it should be perfect. The four 50s then full pull to get all guns. Like you though, pulling the trigger hard enough to get the cannons to fire, makes for a ridged grasp on the joystick.
How often do many remember to do this in combat in our game.
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What do you mean Bustr?
I think he wanted you to explain what you mean by " 100mph principle " and how it relates to his "E" state.
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There are two obvious issues with your gunnery.
1. - You make deflection shots under E that you do not have the lead to accomplish. 100mph principle compounded by your E state.
2. - Even 400 in a 6 chasing shot is pushing it for a spitfire. Dispersion is making your efforts a low probability of success. A P51D or 47 yes.
oh i know , but what i was looking for in the video was no jerky motions when i took the shot. whenever i took a shot with the trigger on the stick i would always have a bounce in my aim .call it old peoples itchy finger disease lol
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Two stage triggers are indeed handy in the 38. Since the 50's and Hispanos fly fairly similar, you waste less cannon rounds by ranging with the 50's first. You'll run out of cannon way before you run out of 50's if you don't have them mapped separately. That's not a death sentence, but no cannon means you're not nearly as lethal as you were on takeoff.
If you're snatching the trigger, you're pulling a Cougar and holding on too tight. Heed the words of Sam Snead and pretend it's a baby bird. Keep it from flying away, but don't kill it. That said, I've found it useful to map cannons to a separate thumb button too, but I pretty much only use it in the K4. I like shooting taters by themselves and save my MG's for backup duty or plinking a runner. They're pretty much useless otherwise.
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Several decades ago I did some archery and one of the tricks was to release the arrow without either pulling or following. For those who are too lazy or uncapable to learn that there's triggers, or mechanical release devices to be more precise. In the Army where I've done most of my shooting we were taught not to move the firearm, just pull the trigger.
With a plane it's a little more complicated, you have to keep an entire plane steady while pulling the trigger. Fighting turbulence and other aviational forces with all your hand power while pulling the trigger ever so gently can be a mission impossible at times. Actually I'm surprised that the trigger still is on the stick instead of the throttle.
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100mph Principle:
The standard combat reticle ring in WW2 was 100Mil in diameter. It was called a 100mph ring. It took a standard 50cal bullet .25sec to travel 400yds. At 400yds a 100mph fighter will travel across your 100Mil ring 50Mil during that time. Your lead allowance is then 50Mil.
For every additional 100mph you increase the lead allowance by an additional 50Mil. In a spitfire in our game, a 300-350mph fighter, you lead with the vertical windscreen bars. You do this from 200-300yds for angles of 45-90 degrees of your travel. Why not to 400yds, dispersion and drop in most cases. 200-300 have a higher percentage chance of hits.
Trying to learn this in the drone circle will only teach you how to estimate lead for aircraft traveling 225-250mph. In that case you use a 70Mil or 65mph ring. In fighter gunnery training in the US the T6 Texan was used which limited air to air shooting to 250mph and 70Mil rings. The pilot might get a few passes in a P40 before being sent off to his combat station. The CO there was supposed to insure the new pilot was brought up to speed using a 100Mil ring. Kind of like our game where everyone starts in the deep end of the pool learning to swim.
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Got it Bustr, Thankyou.
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100mph Principle:
The standard combat reticle ring in WW2 was 100Mil in diameter. It was called a 100mph ring. It took a standard 50cal bullet .25sec to travel 400yds. At 400yds a 100mph fighter will travel across your 100Mil ring 50Mil during that time. Your lead allowance is then 50Mil.
For every additional 100mph you increase the lead allowance by an additional 50Mil. In a spitfire in our game, a 300-350mph fighter, you lead with the vertical windscreen bars. You do this from 200-300yds for angles of 45-90 degrees of your travel. Why not to 400yds, dispersion and drop in most cases. 200-300 have a higher percentage chance of hits.
Trying to learn this in the drone circle will only teach you how to estimate lead for aircraft traveling 225-250mph. In that case you use a 70Mil or 65mph ring. In fighter gunnery training in the US the T6 Texan was used which limited air to air shooting to 250mph and 70Mil rings. The pilot might get a few passes in a P40 before being sent off to his combat station. The CO there was supposed to insure the new pilot was brought up to speed using a 100Mil ring. Kind of like our game where everyone starts in the deep end of the pool learning to swim.
yes i set my convergence at 350 in the spits with 50 cals and 300 with the 303s but whenever i took a shot i would flinch. in this game new players are thrown into the deep end of the pool and you have to try anything to keep from drowning.
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... in this game new players are thrown into the deep end of the pool and you have to try anything to keep from drowning.
That's one choice but new players have other options.
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That's one choice but new players have other options.
yes they do, you can spend hours in the TA and run offline missions etc. but once you enter the MA its then you learn what you missed. :salute
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More often minor wobbling in the stick is an issue of getting a trainer to help you adjust it up to including scaling. Then some time spent on the principles of staying calm during maneuvering with that trainer.
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More often minor wobbling in the stick is an issue of getting a trainer to help you adjust it up to including scaling. Then some time spent on the principles of staying calm during maneuvering with that trainer.
Mike has spent a fair amount of time in the TA!
I'm not sure if I've gone over the finer points of stick adjustments with him but I have tried to stress the fact it's important to be smooth,both for shooting and E.
The spit has great elevator authority and that can cause some nose bounce,also the biggest issue I see is unwanted rudder inputs from pulling the trigger with twist sticks.
Now I didnt watch the film but I bet Bustr is spot on about the taking shots without enough E because I see Mike do that often! This happens because he tends to chase rather than try to use angles.
YMMV.
:salute
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Mike has spent a fair amount of time in the TA!
I'm not sure if I've gone over the finer points of stick adjustments with him but I have tried to stress the fact it's important to be smooth,both for shooting and E.
The spit has great elevator authority and that can cause some nose bounce,also the biggest issue I see is unwanted rudder inputs from pulling the trigger with twist sticks.
Now I didnt watch the film but I bet Bustr is spot on about the taking shots without enough E because I see Mike do that often! This happens because he tends to chase rather than try to use angles.
YMMV.
:salute
Lol yup Morfiend i do tend to chase a lot ,probably cause i do it to you so often in the TA chasing you around the best i can. the part of the film bustr is talking about i was not so much trying to get a kill as to test my new trigger position to see how well it holds while i was making a turn. its going to take some time to get use to shooting from the throttle ,but i believe it will help me in the long run. and you are right on with the unwanted rudder input although i have scaled back the input quite a bit.
probably my biggest issue right now is angles. as much as i have been trying to shoot from a 6 oclock position im finding myself always getting in trouble on merging because the other guys shoots from the 12 oclock and damages me even when i try to avoid it. it happen again tonight when i was chasing an f4u saw a la7 coming from my 6 so i turned and began to merge with 1.5 k he shot from the 12 oclock into my cockpit and of course down i go. I am getting ready to give up the old standard shoot at the 6 oclock because in the MA its the all fair in love and war attitude. like i said once you enter the MA its then you learn what you missed. and i have still tons of work to do , but thanks to the efforts of Morfiend im not so easy to shoot down anymore. i will post some pics here on my stick scaling so you will see where im at. in the mean time enjoy the newest video surviving .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZmEKuXfX3o
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stick scaling pics
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/ahss8.png)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/ahss9_1.png)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/ahss10.png)[/URL]
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To me, it looks like you fly "predictable" for lack of a better word. What I mean, is if your following a guy to get a shot on him, I know where your going because I can follow the guy your following too. So I can easily "predict" where your going.
Also when your looking to get a shot on a guy if your following him, doing the same turns as him, your burning the same "E" as him. In a fight your looking to save your "E" and make him burn his "E". Use hi and lo yoyos to widen your turn and save "E" but stay on your target.
When you have a guy on your six, any turn for the most part YOU do he can do. So just flying around, turning as tight as you can and holding it means the guy on your six is going to be right on your six. You need to maneuver. Pull into your turn a HALF second, roll and turn again. This means the guy on your six MUST follow each move WHILE trying to pull lead for his shot. More moves means it is harder for them to follow you and so surviving longer.
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Suggestion on scaling might be worth giving a try on elevator and ailerons, try starting the button on the left 1/3 the way from the bottom and taking a straight line up to the far right button moving all the buttons in between to the straight line. Set your dampening about 1/2" from the bottom, this should give a starting point to tune from and help eliminate erratic inputs for a better aim.
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yes they do, you can spend hours in the TA and run offline missions etc. but once you enter the MA its then you learn what you missed. :salute
Once you learn in the MA what you missed in the TA you can set up practice for the required skills in the TA.
On your stick settings I would go back to default scaling for pitch and rudder. You don't need to scale roll.
Watch the scaled rudder input indicator on the advanced controller setup page while you move your stick like you're fighting.
If the rudder moves inadvertently add deadband until it stops.
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Well looks like i still have tons of work to do. as of late i seem to do ok avoiding the first 1 or 2 but i think they are taking numbers on whos turn it is next lol. maybe its just me and my style. i dont like to hang up high and wait . i see someone in trouble i dive right in lol. i mean this is a fighting game. i dont mind being shot down as long as i make them work for it. i just wish i could set up shots better ,get an angle to shoot. i have noticed that i am not bouncing the stick anymore when i shoot putting the trigger on the throttle has solved that issue. but i am not getting the satisfaction of being able to shoot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0lJ2eznwA0
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Sounds like you need to practice your merge. The common error is flying at the turning bandit and not using enough lag pursuit. You have to give yourself enough room to make the turn.
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There were too many times in your film where you could have used the vertical and got up out of that mess before reengaging on the spit16's terms. Before you put out the free lunch sign to that mini hoard.
If you are going to fly the spit16 in a diving attack like a poni, at least be aware of your speed and E and not try to turn with a slower con. If the gunnery solution isn't there, WEP and boogy away and up for a reset and a better eyeballing of the targets for your next victim. There were too many bottom feeders with a second wave of taller friends showing up for you to accomplish much on the deck like that alone. You lost awareness on your Ki-43's status and wasted valuable time trying to determine his location. That was a very good point to have pulled back from the bottom feeders, and got an alt reset. On the deck kills your ability to see how many are out there just over the next bush. And you didn't have a squad or friends covering you.
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lol i like that "free lunch sign". kinda how its been since Muzzy had things come up IRL and our squad broke up. last night i got bored with the rooks so i flew bish for a while. AINEIS pretty much had my number all night long.
as for the squad of friends i was pretty pleased at how the bish gave warnings. the song drowns out the voices but i started by trying to clear DWaves which is why the ki43 and me got into the tango. but i was making an effort to gain his 6 but this is where i need to learn how. good points bustr :salute