Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: TEShaw on March 22, 2016, 10:31:14 AM
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New Win7 system.
Windows freezes and won't load when my CH Products controllers are plugged into the generic USB 2.0 ports.
Otherwise, the new system boots fine.
Help!
regards, T. E. Shaw
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I'm not quite sure if I understand what you mean by Windows freezing and not loading. Are you saying you can't get to Windows at all, or sometimes can but it freezes? Or that a perfectly running Windows freezes when you connect your CH gear?
If it's the first one, go to your bios settings and disable USB booting. It may be that your system tries to find an operating system from your CH controllers.
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Interesting thought, Biz.
Windows won't load when my CH controllers are plugged in at start.
The CH Controllers work fine if plugged in after successful Windows start.
I'll have to mention this to the guys who sold me this computer.
Diddling in Bios is just horrifying to me.
Salute.
Thanks.
T. E. Shaw
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for ch you need a self-powered usb controller. you plug it into the pc directly and you will have more problems than necessary.
semp
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Diddling in Bios is just horrifying to me.
In this particular case it shouldn't be too frightening. There's a section named Boot, just disable or move down the USB boot option. Probably it's now the first.
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for ch you need a self-powered usb controller. you plug it into the pc directly and you will have more problems than necessary.
semp
Absolutely true. You cannot run CH gear, reliably, if you do not use an externally powered USB hub.
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What?
As of now, my CH gear is plugged directly into the new computer machine. When I turn that machine on, Windows freezes on loading. Without the gear the computer boots fine.
Once the machine boots, I can plug in the CH gear and all works ok... the issue now being having to calibrate in Windows and AH every time I you know...
My CH gear works fine on my older Win7 machine, plugged directly into the mother board. -or whatever you call it
You're saying I should un-plug the CH gear from the new problematic machine and use an external powered USB hub?
I can't believe that's what you're telling me.
That's why you guys are the computer experts and I only believe in poetry.
What?
Thanks for your attention.
help.
regards, teshaw
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TEShaw, you can test your boot options easily with a USB memory stick plugged in but without your CH gear. If your computer refuses to boot with the USB stick, it's a bios setting. Not a fool proof test, you never know what kind of clever mumbo jumbo they have coded into the bios, but it may give you some directions to follow.
As for the powered USB hub, it's simply a question of amperes. CH gear is known to draw more than the USB port can supply. A powered hub usually doubles the available amperage per port.
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Wowsville.
The wireless mouse and keyboard always work fine on the new machine with their USB radio thing. So that's not the problem, sir.
The machine boots fine with that.
I don't even know what to ask at this point.
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Wowsville.
The wireless mouse and keyboard always work fine on the new machine with their USB radio thing. So that's not the problem, sir.
The machine boots fine with that.
I don't even know what to ask at this point.
The bolded part above may not necessarily be true. BIOS might see the keyboard/mouse just fine, but get confused by the CH gear. If it were me, I'd still check into it to at least eliminate the possibility. I've heard of much stranger things happening.
Wiley.
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Umm... even though being USB gear, the mouse and keyboard are quite low level generic input devices recognized very early in the boot process. They have basic drivers coded into the bios. USB sticks on the other hand are actually hard discs which have the potential to contain an operating system. I don't know, I'm just guessing that there might be some microchip within your CH gear that makes your bios consider one of them as a USB hard drive.
Actually, if that were the case, you should get an error message saying something like "No operating system found. Insert a system disk and reboot".
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See?
Even bizman is befuddled by this one.
I don't know.
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I am pretty sure he is not befuddled. We never use CH gear without an externally powered USB hub. Why? Because it will not work reliably without it, for most computers.
It may, or may not fix your problem, but it will not hurt to have it either.
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See?
Even bizman is befuddled by this one.
I don't know.
I often am befuddled, but usually I keep silent in those cases to keep up an illusion of being a guru.
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I am pretty sure he is not befuddled. We never use CH gear without an externally powered USB hub. Why? Because it will not work reliably without it, for most computers.
It may, or may not fix your problem, but it will not hurt to have it either.
Thank You for posting the above, Skuzzy!
I use USB CH Fighter Stick, USB CH Pro Throttle and CH Gameport Rudder Pedals with a gameport to USB adaptor................ and I have never used a USB Hub or Powered USB Hub, and I have yet to have a single problem plugging my USB CH Controllers into any system since Win98se USB through Windows 8.1 PRO ( Although most all my machines currently boot up to Win 7 Ult 64 bit )
I do not dispel that using a USB Power Hub will not be beneficial, like Skuzzy posted "Why? Because it will not work reliably without it, for most computers."
I have always figured that certain Motherboards ( Higher End MB's) & PSU's have better components than the rest, is the reason I have never had the need to use a powered USB hub
TC
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My issue is not the reliability of the game controllers.
My issue is that the new computer won't boot when the controllers are plugged in.
Would having a powered hub somehow change this?
Once again, I defer to brighter men.
regards, T. E. Shaw
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I wouldn't know, T E.....
As has been posted already, it sounds like your computer's bios is set to check and see if it has a bootable USB device/flash drive/etc... there to boot up from....
Going into the bios and disabling this, might be the fix you are looking for....then again, my computers are set to boot from USB flash drives/sticks, and I've never seen this problem before.....
I recommend you check out the ch-hangar forums (ch products message boards)
TC
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T E,
Once you have booted up your Win 7 os, without the controllers plugged in, did you try plugging the controllers in then once they all are recognized, try rebooting your computer?
Also, go into the power options and custom set your power settings for high performance, and make sure your USB port settings are set to be "always powered on", to where they don't go asleep if idle.... do this, before you plug your controllers in once you get your os booted up and running Ok...
Then try rebooting, with the controllers connected...see if it will boot up properly
Edit: also make sure you are plugging them into black USB port(1.0/2.0), and not blue USB port(3.0)...
Hope this helps
TC
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TC,
Thanks for your input.
Yes, recognized and fail on reboot.
I will check your suggestions.
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If you have a system that has a big power supply then most likely you'll not need an external hub. For example, on my old gaming machine with a 550w power supply I needed an external powered USB hub to make sure that my controllers got enough power as my power supply was taxed already by the hardware in my machine. On my newer machine with a 1200w power supply (total overkill ^__^), I no longer need to use an external powered USB hub for my controllers and can plug them directly into my machine.
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Again,
this is not a problem of the CH controllers working.
They work great once the machine boots and I plug them in.
The issue is that the machine won't boot with the USB controllers plugged in.
I can't imagine that a powered hub would somehow change the booting issue. But, if that's the issue, please tell me so.
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Makes sense to me that if you can duplicate the problem of "no boot if controllers are plugged in", there's something in the bios stopping it. FWIW my CH rig is plugged into a powered hub. I don't have boot problems with those. However, if I plug in one of my external drives and forget to eject it, I'll get a boot error next boot attempt. Oops! I just unplug it and reboot and I'm back in business. I actually have usb set as part of my boot sequence just in case I need it. Think the last time I was flashing the bios on my video card. The bios on my Asus mobo is super easy to deal with. Some aren't, but as long as you have the mobo manual it'll tell you how to navigate to the boot section. If you could do that much you could post back to tell us if that's the case.
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I think it would help if we could give him specific instructions. Would a DXDIAG show what motherboard he has?
EDIT: Looking at it off the laptop I'm using it looks like the System Model should be sufficient.
TEShaw, search for "dxdiag.exe" on your system and run it, then tell us what it says under System Model. Hopefully that should be enough for us to research how to get to and use the BIOS for you.
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I am afraid that the problem you are faced with is going to require changes to your BIOS, and may require multiple changes and experimentation. The USB powered hub is a good suggestion, but likely will not cure the problem completely if at all.
Before giving further advice I would like to know which MB you have. However, the advice concerning USB polling for boot devices at startup is probably the issue at hand. It could also be USB legacy settings, controller speed settings, and even ACPI/APIC settings.
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I had the exact same issue.
It was a configuration issue with the build of the machine and not something BIOS related. i.e. when connecting the leads for the liquid cooling the guy that built the machine plugged x into y when he should have plugged it into z......that sort of thing. I cannot remember exactly and I know it was specific to that motherboard. A quick Google search helped.
I came across the problem when I first plugged all my stick - pedals etc. I also used a powered hub (despite having a 1220w PSU) and the issue did not go away.
I know it is a pain BUT I will echo a couple of the comments here. You have to test it to see if you can replicate the issue. Be methodical
- does it fail with just 1 of the controllers plugged in?
- if yes, try that same controller in the different USB ports - does it still fail with just 1 controller?
- Repeat the above with the other controllers - do you get the same results?
- Try with a powered USB hub - do you get the same issues?
Or take it back to the guy you bought it from and ask him to test it.
Just out of curiosity - any of your controllers plugged into the front USB ports? I have come across boot issues with that.
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My issue is not the reliability of the game controllers.
My issue is that the new computer won't boot when the controllers are plugged in.
Would having a powered hub somehow change this?
Once again, I defer to brighter men.
regards, T. E. Shaw
just get the dang self-powered usb hub and get rid of the problem. that is your problem btw.
semp
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*facepalm*
Please don't frustrate him further. It might not be the problem, and changing a setting in the BIOS is cheaper than buying a hub and finding out it did nothing.
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Yeah, too many cooks in this kitchen. Good luck.
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I"ll be the price of the new usb self-powered that that is the problem. I know because that's what happened to me when I had the ch controller. I figured I had a high enough ps and mobo and I guessed wrong.
I bought this one about 6 or 7 years ago, maybe less and still working
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-High-Speed-Slim-Line-Stackable-F5U237V1/dp/B000ESN9GA
semp
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Thanks.
I already own two powered USB hubs. I was hoping not to use them anymore with the new computer and 10 USB ports.
This sounds [to my dumb ears] like a bios issue.
Why would a powered USB hub allow the system to boot when it didn't like the game controllers anyway?
I'm all ears.
Thanks for your ideas.
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and changing a setting in the BIOS is cheaper than buying a hub and finding out it did nothing.
Yep, and that sounds like what the issue is. An external, powered USB hub will only help if the controllers are not getting enough power from the onboard USB ports on the computer, not if the computer won't boot up with a USB device connected.
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This new machine has a 1000 W power supply.
Controllers work fine when installed after a boot up.
And... I just don't understand skuzzy's notes on this.
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all controllers use power. the controllors and all appliances hooked up to your mobo were drawing more power than what your mobo could provide. something that was needed in your system wasnt drawing enough power causing windows to not boot. but when you removed your ch controlers they could. that was the main hint.
something like that.
semp
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What?
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Check your pm inbox, TE
Post your motherboard brand and model number here if you can
TC
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Seriously?
You've been posting here for ten hours and haven't even tried to plug in one of the two USB powered hubs that you already have nor have you looked at the BIOS to see if it's a setting issue. It would appear that you really aren't that interested in fixing the issue.
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Y'all shouldn't be so harsh....
TE has been trying to figure out what the problem is
His newly built computer has an ASUS X99 motherboard in it....
I explained to him that it's bios is easy to control via using his mouse and that he would most likely have to switch it from the "easy/basic/simple" screen/bios setting to the "advanced" setting, to be able to gain visual access to all the tweaking settings....
I'm close to falling asleep.... and haven't heard back from him.... hopefully he'll post back in this thread.... I asked him to not get upset and to overlook/ignore any posts he might find insulting, more or less....
TC
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His newly built computer has an ASUS X99 motherboard in it....
I have a Gigabyte X99 motherboard, a powered USB hub, and the exact same issue. I just unplug the cable from the hub when I'm done, and plug it back in after I turn the computer on.
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Yeah that bios, just like mine, is super easy to access and scroll thru. Easy enough to check/change the boot order.
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Thank You for posting the above, Skuzzy!
I use USB CH Fighter Stick, USB CH Pro Throttle and CH Gameport Rudder Pedals with a gameport to USB adaptor................ and I have never used a USB Hub or Powered USB Hub, and I have yet to have a single problem plugging my USB CH Controllers into any system since Win98se USB through Windows 8.1 PRO ( Although most all my machines currently boot up to Win 7 Ult 64 bit )
I do not dispel that using a USB Power Hub will not be beneficial, like Skuzzy posted "Why? Because it will not work reliably without it, for most computers."
I have always figured that certain Motherboards ( Higher End MB's) & PSU's have better components than the rest, is the reason I have never had the need to use a powered USB hub
TC
It is not about the quality of the components. Virtually all the USB controllers on the market are not capable of supplying the maximum allowed current over the USB bus. It is by design. It keeps the yeilds higher during manufacturing.
In a modern computer there are multiple USB hubs, but you have no idea which ports go to which hub. If you can manage to plug the CH gear into different USB hubs, which are not occupied with other USB devices, then there is a fair chance you will not have any problems as each USB hub can will be able to supply its maximum current to each device and not share the current with other devices.
If you manage to plug the CH gear into only one of the USB hubs of the computer, then it will be unstable. The total amount of power the complete set of CH gear draws is higher than the USB 2.0 maximum power specification. USB 3.0 has a higher power limit, but it depends on who made the USB controller as to what the real limit is.
You can play "mix-n-match" with the various USB ports to see if you can find the right combination to make it all work.
I wish motherboard manufacturers would mark the USB ports with the hub number as well.
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In a modern computer there are multiple USB hubs, but you have no idea which ports go to which hub.
There is a way but it takes some time. Open Device Manager, Universal Serial Bus controllers. For each Root hub look at the Power tab. It will tell what is plugged into that hub, how many ports go to that hub and how much power the plugged devices nominally use. That's the only way I know of to ensure there's only one device connected to each hub.
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Rgr Skuzzy.... my post you quoted was me drawing from probably 10 year old+/- discussions on the subject of USB ports, MB and PSU components as well as powered USB hubs...
A particular discussion that keeps coming back up again and again...
Good morning...coffee time
TC
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The booting part tho. I wonder if whoever set it up used a memory stick initially? Has the boot order of usb first. Those Asus boards look for a certain usb port (usually #1) at boot. If the gear is plugged into that port at boot that could be the problem. They have flash memory on them but there's nothing bootable so it causes a problem.
Look to see if you can change the boot order to move hard drive with the operating system up or remove usb from the order.
Or try what Fess had suggested, try moving to different ports to determine if it's a particular port giving you the problem. If you find that's the case I'd bet is the one the mobo is looking to boot to.
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My thanks to everyone who has tried to help here.
I haven't attempted any changes to the system just because I'm such a novice and when it fails to boot, I'm horrified.
Now I understand that changing the bios boot order may solve this issue; on the other hand, the only way I have to reload Win7 (if I ever needed to) would be through an external USB DVD player/burner... so there's that...
One thing I'm not understanding is calling for the USB hub to power the CH gear. Are you saying that if the CH stuff was powered externally, then the machine 'would like it' and boot properly?
Just to be clear, once the machine does boot, I can plug in the gear and it works just fine.
Yeah, I've only been plugging them into the generic 2.0 ports.
I'll try the USB hub and a 3.0 port.
Thanks again.
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I have a Gigabyte X99 motherboard, a powered USB hub, and the exact same issue. I just unplug the cable from the hub when I'm done, and plug it back in after I turn the computer on.
I'madot, I hear you.
But does that mean you have to recalibrate in Windows and in the game every time?
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My thanks to everyone who has tried to help here.
I haven't attempted any changes to the system just because I'm such a novice and when it fails to boot, I'm horrified.
Now I understand that changing the bios boot order may solve this issue; on the other hand, the only way I have to reload Win7 (if I ever needed to) would be through an external USB DVD player/burner... so there's that...
Don't do that! Reloading windows will likely not solve this problem!
One thing I'm not understanding is calling for the USB hub to power the CH gear. Are you saying that if the CH stuff was powered externally, then the machine 'would like it' and boot properly?
Uhh... Maybe. They're funny like that. Worth a try don't you think?
Just to be clear, once the machine does boot, I can plug in the gear and it works just fine.
Got it. That's why I don't think it's the hub thing. Indication of that would be weirdness with the controllers like the PC losing track of them or calibration being lost WHILE it's running. You're not getting to there.
Yeah, I've only been plugging them into the generic 2.0 ports.
Like I said - - try different ports. You may be using the one the mobo would try to boot from and when it doesn't see what it wants to see stuck in that port, like a bootable thumb drive, it hangs up. When mine does it I get a black screen with a flashing cursor. Does your mobo have a digital led indicator on it? If so what letter/number does it show? Look in the mobo manual and see what that error corresponds to.
I'll try the USB hub and a 3.0 port.
USB 3 might give you a problem too as they're USB 2 devices.
Thanks again.
Glad to help. Hope you get it sorted out.
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It could also be the mouse/keyboard are not registering at power up time, due to the CH gear causing the USB controller to brown-out.
There are motherboards which will simply not boot without a keyboard. Easy to try. Unplug the keyboard and mouse and see if what happens when you power it up.
Then again, if it is a brown-out situation, that could cause the BIOS ISR (interupt/polling service routine) for the USB controllers to hang.
There is a way but it takes some time. Open Device Manager, Universal Serial Bus controllers. For each Root hub look at the Power tab. It will tell what is plugged into that hub, how many ports go to that hub and how much power the plugged devices nominally use. That's the only way I know of to ensure there's only one device connected to each hub.
Good point Bizman.
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To put Skuzzy's remarks another way, it is possible the CH controllers are pulling too much power and not leaving enough left for the keyboard to be detected by the motherboard, and like he said some motherboards won't start without a keyboard connected. Try starting the computer without the CH controllers, keyboard, and mouse plugged in.
The rest of what he said is just more computer magic that should be solved by a powered hub.
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One thing with USB hubs is that instead of having to unplug every CH device before booting, there'll only be one. That'd save more time during boot than an SSD :D
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A Solution!
I got a call from the builders, CPU Solutions (whom I am liking more and more).
Mr. Tim took me into the bios and disabled 'xHCI Hand off' under USB Configuration.
...whatever that is...
So it has booted 4 out 5 times with the CH gear plugged into the 2.0 USB ports.
Thanks again to all of you for your help!
regards,
Airman T. E. Shaw
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Awesome! Knew it had to be something in that section.
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Fascinating. Thanks for telling us. :aok
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Glad you sort of got it sorted out. 4 out of 5 times....hmmmm.
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4 out of 5 times....hmmmm.
Yeah...
Reading a little, apparently disabling xHCI handoff disables the USB 3.0 ports. And that fixed it? Huh...
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I'madot, I hear you.
But does that mean you have to recalibrate in Windows and in the game every time?
Nope. I just plug the hub in, Windows sees my gear, and I'm ready to go. I keep the hub powered on all the time, so my CH gear is always on but not always connected.
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TEshaw I might have to do the same thing. I recently had the problem also. Windows will not boot with my Ch gears plugged in. I never had to problem before and its making my head hurts because this is a brand new computer I have. I will have to call the manufacture to walk me through the problem.
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OOOO thank god I got it fixed. I did not need to call the manufacturer. It had to do something with windows 10. I guess something with the Operating System (OS). So windows 10 had an update and it fixed all the issues that was causing the OS not to boot up. Like I said I recently got this computer and it came with windows 10. So now I can keep my controllers plugged in when I shut the computer off. Also I use the USB 3.0 ports for my CH controllers and the other USB which I think is 2.0 for keyboard, mouse and headsets.....So I Don't think I need a powered USB External Port. Glad the problem is fixed and windows is running as smooth as ever.
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A Solution!
I got a call from the builders, CPU Solutions (whom I am liking more and more).
Mr. Tim took me into the bios and disabled 'xHCI Hand off' under USB Configuration.
...whatever that is...
So it has booted 4 out 5 times with the CH gear plugged into the 2.0 USB ports.
Thanks again to all of you for your help!
regards,
Airman T. E. Shaw
it's not fixed. it's only booting 80% of the time. if it was fixed it would be 100%.
semp
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Absolutely true. You cannot run CH gear, reliably, if you do not use an externally powered USB hub.
Guess I'm Lucky. I've been running CH gear for years plugged directly into the USB ports on my computer. Do you mean they won't work on an external USB hub that's doesn't have it's own power supply. That I can confirm from use of my old XP machine that didn't have enough ports. I've never had to unplug CH gear to get computer to boot.
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Guess I'm Lucky. I've been running CH gear for years plugged directly into the USB ports on my computer. Do you mean they won't work on an external USB hub that's doesn't have it's own power supply. That I can confirm from use of my old XP machine that didn't have enough ports. I've never had to unplug CH gear to get computer to boot.
2 faster computer that I had says you got lucky. I have come to understand that when when skuzzy say's reliable it doesnt exactly mean just because it does run on your system, that it does mean you run reliable.
semp
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ever stopped to think that "4 out 5 times" was a typo for "4 or 5 times" or "4 to 5 times"
I know that on the spelling auto-correct that or and out are next to each other....
just a thought
Yeah...
Reading a little, apparently disabling xHCI handoff disables the USB 3.0 ports. And that fixed it? Huh...
This is concerning! If TE Shaw's tech support for his newly built computer just talked TE through a quick bandaid patch to get him up and running, instead of fully diagnosing the problem...
TE, check and see if you are able to use any of your USB 3.0 ports...if not, you may want to take your new PC in to the builder, if it was built locally...
TC
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I still think bump down or even remove USB from the boot order is worth a shot. No disrespect intended but I'm guessing Shaw isn't gonna be trying to boot his PC from a thumb drive like ever! Easy enough to get to and wouldn't hurt a thing. If anybody needed to put it back easy enough again.
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Well, you guys are right...the fix didn't fix. It only worked a few times, but the machine never loaded Win7 previously when the gear was plugged in.
I hesitate to remove USB from the boot order because my Win7 disk would be on an external USB DVD player. But saying that probably just proves my ignorance of this bios stuff. Maybe have the bios look to the hard drive first, then the USB?
Frankly, I'm feeling kind of guilty for all the time you gentlemen have invested in this
small problem. Thank you,
I did notice my powered USB hub was giving me a red light on the Fighterstick, and I've replaced it with another that does seem to be better supplying power to the gear.
I'll try that on the next boot attempt...later, after my frustration-fatigue subsides.
Imadot's work-around sounds easier than flogging this thing.
Thanks again.
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But you shouldn't need the disc to run the PC once windows has been installed. Or am I missing something?
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Oh and the red light the stick is just a mode indicator. There's red, green and yellow lights, one for each programming mode. Push on the top outside button to change it. If you have a throttle push inward on the mini joystick.
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OK.
I think it's solved. Well, I think actually you guys solved it. I absorbed some of your mumbo-jumbo about the keyboard...
Sorry I've been so dense, thanks for your patience.
I replaced my wireless keyboard with a cheap Logitec USB keyboard...that's plugged into the 2.0 port.
The new powered hub is in the 3.0 port.
I'm 3 for 3 on boot up.
Drano, wouldn't I need Bios to boot from the Win7 disk if I ever had to replace/repair Windows? (external DVD).
Thanks again guys...if this doesn't work I'm not even going to tell you!
Salute.
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The bios is part of your motherboard. That's how you set up a PC initially without anything else running. You could have just a keyboard or in your case just a mouse plugged in (although it has to be in a certain port) , wait for a prompt for think it's to hit the del key and you're into the mobo bios.
Windows doesn't come into play until the mobo "proves" those settings and moves on to the boot drive that you've specified.
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Example of that. I'd said up the thread I'd had USB set first a while back. I had a project where the plan was to reflash the bios on my video card to unlock my 6950 and turn it into a 6970. That was just the process. Unfortunately it didn't work for me as my card was a later production block and they'd "fixed" that little loophole. The bastiges! No biggie. I just switched the boot order back to the hard drive I have Win7 on and that was that.
So see there would be a reason to have it set that way but generally that wouldn't be how it'd be set.
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Oh and I don't know if I just had a eureka moment but...
Take that Windows 7 disc out of that usb drive! That disc is bootable and may have something to do with this thing jumping the tracks.
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Thanks, Drano; but I never said the Win7 disc was in the drive...I didn't even say the DVD was plugged in.
regards, teshaw
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Oh dangit! Nvm
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Although it has already been said, I'll summarize:
No, you don't need to have the USB boot option as the first one just in case you'd need to reinstall Windows. You can change it whenever really needed. Even better, your mobo may allow you to choose your booting device by pressing a certain key at boot time. That comes in handy if you want to run Linux from a USB stick or CD like I sometimes do to get data from a broken hard disk. Having the hard disk as the primary booting device also speeds up the boot time a little since your system doesn't have to scroll through all possibilities before getting to the desired one.
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Thanks again guys...if this doesn't work I'm not even going to tell you!
But but but...
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But but but...
+1
Problems like this should be brought to the public. We all learn from these, especially if the problems get solved. Something you just can't learn at any school.
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OK, Mar and Biz,
Since you insist:
A day later and still booting fine with the configuration as described.
Thanks.
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Glad you got it sorted out.
Was wanting to ask you TEShaw the brand\type of motherboard and the exact USB headers that you had all your USB devices plugged into as w\ some BIOS'es there are settings that will fully enable all USB headers on POST or only look for certain USB devices at POST (usually a keyboard and\or mouse) and w\ the second item I mentioned there is usually a specific USB header that the BIOS will look for these devices on (the USB header that usually have the old PS2 serial connector(s) in it) or it's usually the very top USB header on the mobo and most of the time this header will not be USB 3.x, only USB 2.x or earlier. Even though the USB specs call for universal compatibility this isn't always followed w\ the BIOS's & if a USB device is plugged in this specific USB header that the BIOS can't ID as a keyboard\mouse during POST it "could" hang the POST process stopping boot up as the BIOS needs to see these items are available for access to the BIOS and are looked for very early in the POST process.
May not have been your specific issue but you never know.................
I would suspect that the newer mobos are getting away from this w\ the newer UEFI (or BIOS if you prefer) interfaces as a UEFI-compliant device can be ID'd very easily thru a UEFI interface and so the UEFI knows what to do w\ it as opposed to a legacy BIOS so USB header position\type isn't near as critical during POST.
To this day I still have the habit of plugging all my USB devices into the very SAME header connection that I put them in on initial successful use to minimize\eliminate USB connection issues.
Enjoy your new box!
:salute