Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: Vinkman on March 17, 2017, 09:22:34 AM
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So I upgraded my motherboard and Chip set yesterday and windows crashed on start. The local Computer repair store guy explained that have to re-install windows because the old load is no longer compatible with the new hardware. And I did recieve a optical disc with the CPU containing what I think are new drivers etc.., which I thought was I ironic because I can't load them if windows won't start.
If I re-install windows like the repair guys says, what get's over ridden on my hard drive? Evreything, or just the windows software files?
Does anyone have any thoughts on what's the best approach from here?
Thanks in advance :salute
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You can try doing a repair install. It should replace the drivers with the default ones Windows ships with and allow the computer to boot. It also rolls back Windows to a new like state where all the updates will have to be done again.
If you do it right all your applications show be retained, but make sure to do a backup of anything you deem critical as it could all get lost.
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You can try doing a repair install. It should replace the drivers with the default ones Windows ships with and allow the computer to boot. It also rolls back Windows to a new like state where all the updates will have to be done again.
If you do it right all your applications show be retained, but make sure to do a backup of anything you deem critical as it could all get lost.
Does that require the Windows Optical, where I would put it in and Repair install is an option, vs Full install?
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What version of Windows is it? It should detect a version of Windows installed and offer to do a repair installation. This is different from going into the repair console. With Windows 7 SP1, and later, it is a full installation without wiping out any data.
It can be done from a bootable USB flash drive, or from the DVD.
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I would put it back together with the old parts, get it running and back up what you want to save, then take it apart and do the upgrade, just a thought
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What version of Windows is it? It should detect a version of Windows installed and offer to do a repair installation. This is different from going into the repair console. With Windows 7 SP1, and later, it is a full installation without wiping out any data.
It can be done from a bootable USB flash drive, or from the DVD.
Yes it's Windows 7. I did get a repair mode...it runs but then says it can't fix the problem.
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Yes it's Windows 7. I did get a repair mode...it runs but then says it can't fix the problem.
That does not sound like the correct mode. The repair install just obliterates the operating system installation and drivers with the one from the DVD. It just does it without wiping out the installed data. It should work as it uses those dumb generic drivers Microsoft supplies.
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That does not sound like the correct mode. The repair install just obliterates the operating system installation and drivers with the one from the DVD. It just does it without wiping out the installed data. It should work as it uses those dumb generic drivers Microsoft supplies.
OK. I didn't have the DVD, It was a menu that came up off the hard drive load...so maybe that's why it didn't work.
(A) I will try it with the DVD.
(B) My other thought was add a second HD and reinstall windows on that one. Get the rig up and running, and then pull files from the original drive. It seems safer and that's probably worth the $80 for the second HD.
Do you see any issues with plan B?
Thanks for all your help Skuzzy, much appreciated! :salute
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Yes, you have to use the DVD or a USB flash drive to get there from here.
We go the additional hard drive route with every computer upgrade we do. It is the easy way to insure no loss of data. Just be mindful of the following:
1) Make sure you name the computer the same as the old OS installation.
2) Make sure you have the same user account as well.
If you do not do the above, you can run into permission issues which will annoy the heck out of you.
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Yes, you have to use the DVD or a USB flash drive to get there from here.
We go the additional hard drive route with every computer upgrade we do. It is the easy way to insure no loss of data. Just be mindful of the following:
1) Make sure you name the computer the same as the old OS installation.
2) Make sure you have the same user account as well.
If you do not do the above, you can run into permission issues which will annoy the heck out of you.
Understood. Thanks Skuzzy. :rock
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Follow up:
Put in a new HD with a fresh Windows 7 load. booted right up ran with no issues. I did get the naming correct and can read both drives. I have copied files over from the old HD. Programs I just left and re-downloaded most of them on the new drive so they are compatible with the new system architecture.
Running with no issues. Thanks to all for timely and accurate advice. :salute
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Follow up:
Put in a new HD with a fresh Windows 7 load. booted right up ran with no issues. I did get the naming correct and can read both drives. I have copied files over from the old HD. Programs I just left and re-downloaded most of them on the new drive so they are compatible with the new system architecture.
Running with no issues. Thanks to all for timely and accurate advice. :salute
Now THAT'S what I'm talking bout!
:aok
Gonna put that gem in the secret bucket for when I do upgrade to Ryzen.............
:salute
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SYSPREP is a great utility .. put your old system together run SYSPREP on the HD then Transfer to new system, $$$$$$
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Follow up:
Put in a new HD with a fresh Windows 7 load. booted right up ran with no issues. I did get the naming correct and can read both drives. I have copied files over from the old HD. Programs I just left and re-downloaded most of them on the new drive so they are compatible with the new system architecture.
Running with no issues. Thanks to all for timely and accurate advice. :salute
Hey Vinkman.
The path you took is the path I always use for major system upgrades. I then keep my old drive "as is" for the next few months until I'm sure I have everything I want off of it. I then format it and use it as a storage drive or pull it and keep it for my next upgrade cycle.
Probably the biggest difference in boot is if you were set to SATA: AHCI or not in previous build/hardware. Windows needs a setting for AHCI to boot (which gets set during install) which will become noticeable during boot cycle (usually as a BSOD). If your previous build used IDE and your new build defaulted to AHCI, then you wouldn't boot. This is a SATA setting (usually IDE or AHCI are the choices).
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Hey Vinkman.
The path you took is the path I always use for major system upgrades. I then keep my old drive "as is" for the next few months until I'm sure I have everything I want off of it. I then format it and use it as a storage drive or pull it and keep it for my next upgrade cycle.
Probably the biggest difference in boot is if you were set to SATA: AHCI or not in previous build/hardware. Windows needs a setting for AHCI to boot (which gets set during install) which will become noticeable during boot cycle (usually as a BSOD). If your previous build used IDE and your new build defaulted to AHCI, then you wouldn't boot. This is a SATA setting (usually IDE or AHCI are the choices).
Thanks Dobs :aok
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Hey Vinkman.
The path you took is the path I always use for major system upgrades. I then keep my old drive "as is" for the next few months until I'm sure I have everything I want off of it. I then format it and use it as a storage drive or pull it and keep it for my next upgrade cycle.
Probably the biggest difference in boot is if you were set to SATA: AHCI or not in previous build/hardware. Windows needs a setting for AHCI to boot (which gets set during install) which will become noticeable during boot cycle (usually as a BSOD). If your previous build used IDE and your new build defaulted to AHCI, then you wouldn't boot. This is a SATA setting (usually IDE or AHCI are the choices).
That's what SYSPREP removes so when you put the HD in a new system it will boot up with all the old drivers removed and will install to the new systems settings without issue
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Sysprep removes drivers, but the AHCI/IDE issue is something that window ONLY installs if you are AHCI to start with, i.e. it see's the AHCI and installs the required support files. Not so sure Sysprep covers the Bios change to AHCI.
If you have an OS with IDE, and then switch to AHCI (Newer), then the machine BSOD on boot.
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not related but worth knowing. You can re-activate windows 10 if you link it to a microsoft account. I used the media creation tool and copied it to a USB flash stick.
I swapped out mobo, cpu, ram, gfx card and added an SSD as the boot device. When installing, skip the product key bit and then go into activation > troubleshoot and enter in your e-mail/password.
Didn't want to have to fork out for another licence when I had win 10 pro from a free win7 upgrade.
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Sysprep removes drivers, but the AHCI/IDE issue is something that window ONLY installs if you are AHCI to start with, i.e. it see's the AHCI and installs the required support files. Not so sure Sysprep covers the Bios change to AHCI.
If you have an OS with IDE, and then switch to AHCI (Newer), then the machine BSOD on boot.
theres a simple regedit for that too