Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: Lazerr on May 26, 2017, 10:57:14 AM
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Anyone use it? I have some rust starting on the rockers of my Silverado and want to stop it early. Any major retailers in the Midwest carry it? Id like to get it done this weekend without waiting on shipping. Any other similar products?
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Anyone use it? I have some rust starting on the rockers of my Silverado and want to stop it early. Any major retailers in the Midwest carry it? Id like to get it done this weekend without waiting on shipping. Any other similar products?
I've used POR 15 and POR 40 on various projects, Lazer. No complaints here - a good product.
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Used on exposed crankshaft flange area where propeller attaches. Tends to rust on continentals.
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What year Silverado? Why is it rusting? Salt on roads in winter?
Awaiting arrival of factory ordered 2500 and very curious.
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Oh its a 2004.. im really shocked it took this long.. i see 2008 through 2010 models with more rust than my old 04. It is from the salt on the Wisconsin roads. It still isnt visable from the sides, but you can see it from below.
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If its bare metal, I start with Picklex 20 (https://picklex20.com/), inside and out.
On interior hidden metal, I then hit it with 3M Cavity Wax (http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/cavity-wax-plus/).
On exterior metal, I'' use the POR products.
In all cases, follow the instructions for use.
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On interior hidden metal, I then hit it with 3M Cavity Wax[/url
In all cases, follow the instructions for use.
(http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/cavity-wax-plus/)
Not familar with this 3m product but it's ofter an issue with wax base products,they trap moisture and cause rust!! In texas I would imagine it's only a very slight issue but anywhere they use salt on the roads this can make things much worse!!!
I'd advise an oil treatment,there's many on the market and most work well but need to be reapplied on an annual/semi annual basis!
Chain oils,the type you spray on bike chains and the like works real well,but it doesnt last so it needs to be reapplied!
Rustcheck and Krown both make spray cans of their products,how the availability is in the USA I dont know but either work real well at stopping and preventing rust. There are others on the market as well that work good but what you want is an oil that is thin,sticks and has capillary action(creeps around)... :devil
Products like wax and tar base stuff tends to trap mopisture and cause problems you dont see until it's too late!
Again it depends on where you live! Did you know that rust almost doesnt happen below freezing? It's the salts and other products that lower the melting point of water that are the real problem. If it's too cold to use salts.etc. you have very little rusting issues,there a reason they call it the rust belt!!! Just warm enough to allow the use of salts and therefore promote rust!
Ya in another life I managed a rust proofing company! :noid
:salute
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I used POR-15 rated the best, but expensive, Corroseal and Rust converter spray cans for small jobs for my trucks frame, 5-6 month/year on salted roads. All are primers phosphoric acid based, reacting with iron oxide /rust you need an extra coat.
Lazer, make sure you don't paint your neighbors car, i just read this stats, you guys have fun in WI; :cheers:
top 20 drunkest cities in America;
1. Green Bay, Wis.
2. Eau Claire, Wis.
3. Appleton, Wis.
4. Madison, Wis.
6. Oshkosh-Neenah, Wis.
9. Wausau, Wis.
10. La Crosse-Onalaska, Wis.
12. Fond du Lac, Wis.
15. Sheboygan, Wis.
20. Milwaukee-Waukesha-West Allis, Wis.
http://www.msn.com/en-us/news/us/which-city-is-the-drunkest-in-america/ar-BBBxukG
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and Krown
good product, i used it first time last winter, sprayed in November last year , i washed my truck many times with hot water, still sticks on exposed sections.
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I used POR-15 rated the best, but expensive, Corroseal and Rust converter spray cans for small jobs for my trucks frame, 5-6 month/year on salted roads. All are primers phosphoric acid based, reacting with iron oxide /rust you need an extra coat.
Lazer, make sure you don't paint your neighbors car, i just read this stats, you guys have fun in WI; :cheers:
top 20 drunkest cities in America;
1. Green Bay, Wis.
2. Eau Claire, Wis.
3. Appleton, Wis.
4. Madison, Wis.
6. Oshkosh-Neenah, Wis.
9. Wausau, Wis.
10. La Crosse-Onalaska, Wis.
12. Fond du Lac, Wis.
15. Sheboygan, Wis.
20. Milwaukee-Waukesha-West Allis, Wis.
http://www.msn.com/en-us/news/us/which-city-is-the-drunkest-in-america/ar-BBBxukG
:rofl
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Not familar with this 3m product but it's ofter an issue with wax base products,they trap moisture and cause rust!! In texas I would imagine it's only a very slight issue but anywhere they use salt on the roads this can make things much worse!!!<snip>
That is old school stuff morf. This wax is a polymer based wax which rejects moisture in its entirety. Salt does not phase it. It actually has a higher protection rating than POR15 does, as long as it is not exposed directly to the elements.
Like the name says, it is for hidden areas (inside doors, for example) which do not suffer from direct exposure.
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Figured that Roy!
I dont think living in texas will give you the issues we get here!
It might be old school stuff I'm talking about compared to the "new" 3M product but in my experience all those wax and tar based products were garbage! GM used to spray a tar based product on thier cars during production,late 70's till the early 90's and I would see water trapped between the sheet metal and the rustproofing! Cars were rusting in places they never should have simply because the stuff trapped water!
We would drill and spray into cavities then plug the holes so the could be used on the next application!
My honda is slightly over 10 years old,you wont find a single spec of rust and we deal with salted roads about 6 months of the year! It's messy to work under and your hands get dirty when you work on it but there's never any fasteners that cant be removed because they are seized! My mech says "ya it's dirty but it sure make my life easier!" The stuff even stops battery corrosion,well I do keep a penny on the battery to help with that also..... :devil
:salute
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There was little chemical difference between the old wax and tar. They were both hydrocarbon based which would trap moisture.
Forget they are calling it "wax". It is not a hydrocarbon based material. It is chemically designed to leech moisture and air from the surface it is attached to.
Like I said, in tests and the real world it is outperforming POR15 when used where it is intended.
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If its bare metal, I start with Picklex 20 (https://picklex20.com/), inside and out.
On interior hidden metal, I then hit it with 3M Cavity Wax (http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/cavity-wax-plus/).
On exterior metal, I'' use the POR products.
In all cases, follow the instructions for use.
This right here. Used the Wax on my CJ7 when I had it.
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I used POR-15 to de-rust the inside of my motorcycle gas tank. Worked awesome!