Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: colmbo on April 01, 2018, 02:27:35 PM
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Over the last week I've picked up a standard M1A, a Scout M1A and an M1 Garand. I've never owned any of these before, what kind of grease are you guys using and where do you get it? Lubriplate 130 seems to be the goto grease but I haven't been able to find any locally.
Thanks
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I don't remember the grease used... used the garand in the early '70s
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Over the last week I've picked up a standard M1A, a Scout M1A and an M1 Garand. I've never owned any of these before...
Jeez, save some for the rest of us... :D
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Jeez, save some for the rest of us... :D
Exactly!! I'm preserving them for the future. :)
I'll sell you the standard M1A but you'll have to come to Alaska to get it.
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Over the last week I've picked up a standard M1A, a Scout M1A and an M1 Garand. I've never owned any of these before, what kind of grease are you guys using and where do you get it? Lubriplate 130 seems to be the goto grease but I haven't been able to find any locally.
Sudden riches! Welcome to the M1 club.
I'm lazy, so I buy my grease from http://www.garandgear.com/. They also have a lot of parts, some of which you will need from time to time. Like an old car, you can spend hours and hours fussing around tuning up the M1.
Unlike most other rifles, the grease on the M1 is essential. I had some unfortunate jamming events before I realized that.
Sign up for the civilian marksmanship program. They have some good deals on M1 ammunition (and other ammunition as well). Beware: If you shoot on indoor ranges (I had to, once), they may not allow steel bullets. I have several cans of otherwise fine Greek ammunition, which turns out to have steel bullets. Federal and at least one other company sell factory loads with M1 ballistics. This is very nice, as you won't have to constantly adjust your sights for different ammo loads.
Have a great time, it's a lot of fun.
- oldman
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M1A owner here
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I use anything from grease to Break Free. They’re solid. You will never wear them out.
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I'm lazy, so I buy my grease from http://www.garandgear.com/.
Thanks for the link!
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Unlike most other rifles, the grease on the M1 is essential. I had some unfortunate jamming events before I realized that.
Most rifles, if you truly run them hard, and by hard I mean more than 200 rounds in an afternoon, more like 1000 to 1500 or more in a 2 day course of fire, you absolutely need grease on them. AR, AK, M1A, FN, CZ, VZ58, Tavor, Sig/Swiss Arms PE90 - any of the main battle rifles/carbines I've ran hard I've always greased them, and those who haven't invariably have failures, consistently.
There are lots of great products, but basic grease from a hardware shop will work as well.
Congrats on the M1s. I have a few, a standard like yours, a National Match, and a couple Chinese Norincos that are popular here in Canada and inexpensive, have modded them with a lot of USGI parts, one shoots as well as my National Match rifle. SOCOM 16 as well, but I traded it away a while back as I hadn't fired it, and didn't plan to.
Good vids on lube/grease for the M1A, and AR platform IMO.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uG-c_lPB06s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzVr7JXVxH4
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Cool.. I have 2 M1 Garands, a 1943 Winchester (my pop's), and a 1953 Springfield (my own).. And a loaded M1A, carbon barrel, standard length, walnut stock, with Leatherwood ART scope..
I use Lubriplate 130-A grease.. Milspec for M1 and M14/M1A..
Available at Brownells, Midway, Natches, etc..
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a couple Chinese Norincos
I bought one of the Norinco M14S rifles back in the 90s. The one I got was pretty poor. The stock was of a very light, porous wood and appeared only rough cut. A bit of sanding and oiling helped it appear nicer. The rifle itself scared me enough I sold it without firing it. As I worked the action the rifle would occasionally disassemble itself with bolt roller coming out of the op rod and popping up, sometimes falling out of the rifle. I just didn't trust it.
Thanks for the 'tube links.
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Cool.. I have 2 M1 Garands, a 1943 Winchester (my pop's), and a 1953 Springfield (my own)..
My receiver was manufactured in December of 1942. It's an arsenal rebuilt so no telling where the rest of the parts came from. :)
I have some Lubriplate 130 coming from Amazon.
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I have a 1943 SA M1, it’s my pride and joy :banana:
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Springfield 1943 vintage. Korea returnee that I sent back to Springfield for a new barrel and caliber conversion (7.62 NATO).
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Most rifles, if you truly run them hard, and by hard I mean more than 200 rounds in an afternoon, more like 1000 to 1500 or more in a 2 day course of fire, you absolutely need grease on them. AR, AK, M1A, FN, CZ, VZ58, Tavor, Sig/Swiss Arms PE90 - any of the main battle rifles/carbines I've ran hard I've always greased them, and those who haven't invariably have failures, consistently.
There are lots of great products, but basic grease from a hardware shop will work as well.
Sound advice. Hard to reinvent the wheel. What worked when they were made still works today.
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And whatever you do, get you thumb out of the way. Garand owners know what that is. Lol.
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And whatever you do, get you thumb out of the way. Garand owners know what that is. Lol.
Dad was a WWII vet, I remember him talking about Garand thumb. :)
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“M1 Thumb.” Ah memories.
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My Pop was a WW2 (Pacific) and Korea Veteran..
He had lots of tips and stories about the Garand..
Like,
Beware of the un-radiused operating rod, it will kill you! (1943 and earlier rifles)
Unstock the rifle as little as possible, Garand accuracy is dependent on the stock fit..
When the rifle is removed/replaced in the stock, it will shift your zero, making you miss..
Don't over grease it, too much grease attracts dirt, grease + dirt = abrasive paste..
Grease can freeze in very cold temps locking the rifle up when you need it most..
If your rifle is frosted solid, "Piss on it", that will get it working again..
If the fight is up close, and accuracy isn't really required, increase the severity of
wounds, by smashing the tips of your ball rounds on the butt plate!
Interesting advice, from lots of experience..
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Good stuff though I've never noticed my accuracy being harmed by removing the stock, even when replacing it with a completely different one.
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I am finally breaking down and ordering one from CMP (Service grade)
No collection is complete without the rifle that won WW2!
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Good stuff though I've never noticed my accuracy being harmed by removing the stock, even when replacing it with a completely different one.
Oh, I notice it on my 53 Springer, but it has been epoxy-ed slightly near the front ferrule and under the trigger group to snug it up.. Tighter fit = tighter groups, as long as the action doesn't bind.. Some service rifle competitors, glass the whole stock/action, front to back!
Note that FM 23-5, from 1940, says not to use any grease at all, oil only..
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No collection is complete without the rifle that won WW2!
That's why I own 4 different Mosin-Nagant variants. :D :devil
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Oh, I notice it on my 53 Springer, but it has been epoxy-ed slightly near the front ferrule and under the trigger group to snug it up.. Tighter fit = tighter groups, as long as the action doesn't bind.. Some service rifle competitors, glass the whole stock/action, front to back!
Note that FM 23-5, from 1940, says not to use any grease at all, oil only..
Haven't noticed that myself. I have two M1s, one standard and one NM. I never went competitively with them so if that's a factor for them I haven't been serious enough to notice. :rofl
I still have some of the old military lubricants from the 40s and 50s. I've used those without a problem. Then again, they're safe queens now so I would have to break out my manual to read what it says. Been a long time.
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Good stuff though I've never noticed my accuracy being harmed by removing the stock, even when replacing it with a completely different one.
From what I've read that applies more to rifles with glass bedded stocks/barrels.
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Some rifles benefit more from some degree of bedding, than others..
Some want more, some only a little, some none at all.. They are very individual that way!
Working on some Garand porn.. My 53 is quite photogenic.. :rofl
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That's why I own 4 different Mosin-Nagant variants. :D :devil
https://imgur.com/gallery/T9cAiy1
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From what I've read that applies more to rifles with glass bedded stocks/barrels.
Ah, I read right past that.
:salute
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Meet Betty Grable..
(https://i.imgur.com/vwykzxE.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ruv55zI.jpg?1)
Oh Baby! :D
Hope I remembered how to do this picture gig..
Dammit, did it wrong!
Ah, got it! :aok
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Meet Betty Grable..
(https://i.imgur.com/vwykzxE.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ruv55zI.jpg?1)
Oh Baby! :D
Hope I remembered how to do this picture gig..
Dammit, did it wrong!
Ah, got it! :aok
*drool*
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https://imgur.com/gallery/T9cAiy1
<Laughs in Russian>
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Just picked up an M1A myself last week
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180403/62d597c08206d1b9511286a16ce1fe5c.jpg)
Actually going to convert it back to military specs with a folding paratrooper stock.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Just picked up an M1A myself last week
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180403/62d597c08206d1b9511286a16ce1fe5c.jpg)
Actually going to convert it back to military specs with a folding paratrooper stock.
That's an M1 carbine.
M1A is a semi auto only M14.
Hoppes makes gun grease. It comes in a tube about 4oz. Makes sure you grease that roller bearing between the bolt and the connecting rod real good.