Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: RichardDarkwood on April 25, 2020, 09:24:31 AM
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Does anyone have any tips and pointers on how to lower the deadband on a thrustmaster 16000 setup?
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If you're not having any spikes or "noise" in your axii it should be set to zero. You shouldn't get that with that stick as it's a contact-less sensor. Not familiar with the actual software for that stick but start there. I'm AH it's in map controllers. Select the stick. A box under it will show the different axii. Click on one. Check the advanced box. There will be a pop out that shows the action of the stick with scaling you can set damping and deadband.
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I had to check mine, both deadband and damping were at their defaults. Note that your hand may shake just that little, or your table so if you have no deadband and damping the autopilot may fall off almost by your heartbeats.
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I have my deadband in game set all the way to the bottom on both joystick axis. I have to move the stick quite a bit before i get the movement in game.
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I have my deadband in game set all the way to the bottom on both joystick axis. I have to move the stick quite a bit before i get the movement in game.
In the game? How about in the joystick settings outside the game? If there are deadbands set there that's what AH will see first.
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I calibrated it in windows. There were no deadband settings.
I read about the TARGET software and adjusting deadbands thru there, but I am not that familiar with it as I have been away from all this for ten years.
Thank you for any help and insight in this matter
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I have my deadband in game set all the way to the bottom on both joystick axis. I have to move the stick quite a bit before i get the movement in game.
I believe default sets the sliders for the joystick axis start low on the left and climb to 100% to the right. Most adjust the roll axis with all the sliders to the top, and the pitch axis some where in the middle depending on how smooth you move the stick. If they are all at the top when you pitch the plane up or down it is instant and can cause black outs and red out if your moving too fast.
Finding the happy place is a trial and error because we all use the stick differently.
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That'd do it too. I have my scaling set at max for both x and y. I have scaling set up in my stick software (VKB). It's hyper sensitive so ya really have to dial it back a notch or you get stuff like what Biz was saying. Literally like sensing your heartbeat.
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Thanks guys. Much appreciated
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Looks like I have to use the TARGET set up program. Not sure how to map the deadbands. If I move the stick left to roll, it moves half way before the plane rolls. Really annoying. Anyone familiar with the TARGET system?
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The scaling in AH? All the sliders are full up all the way across? Just sounds odd the stick is doing that. Like yours just missing a setting somewhere. Unless it's something where you HAVE to use target. Again I'm not familiar with that particular stick but it seems pretty popular. But they aren't all the same. For example VKB advises we use only their software to calibrate and configure their sticks and to NEVER use windows to do anything.
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This first picture is with the sliders in the default position......
(http://66.189.10.34:8080/pics/sliders1.jpg)
The second is at full action.....
(http://66.189.10.34:8080/pics/sliders2.jpg)
Click on the line where you want the slider to move to. Adjust all and be sure to save/ok before you close out the clipboard.
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Still seems strange to get nothing over such a wide band of play. Makes me wonder if there is a physical connection problem like a loose wire or connector. The gimbal does move as you move the stick so things can work loose. The sensors are really sensitive but the controller can only work with what its given. If the signal itself is wonky for whatever reason it might do the same thing.
In the AH map controllers tab, looking at the axii for your stick, do the numbers not change at all until you move the stick like halfway? They should change for the silliest movement
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It was a forty seven year old been away from computers to long issue. The last time I played aces high was with a janky pc and a even jankier logitec joystick. Now i am back with a decent size pc and a thrustmaster hotas set up which is more like real flight than logitec.
A friend of a friend is an IT genius. I gave him access on team view and he went thru and got me squared away.
Appreciate the support and feedback from this community.
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It was a forty seven year old been away from computers to long issue. The last time I played aces high was with a janky pc and a even jankier logitec joystick. Now i am back with a decent size pc and a thrustmaster hotas set up which is more like real flight than logitec.
A friend of a friend is an IT genius. I gave him access on team view and he went thru and got me squared away.
Appreciate the support and feedback from this community.
ROTFLMAO @ 47 year old issue
Glad you got it setup. :aok
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It was a forty seven year old been away from computers to long issue. The last time I played aces high was with a janky pc and a even jankier logitec joystick. Now i am back with a decent size pc and a thrustmaster hotas set up which is more like real flight than logitec.
A friend of a friend is an IT genius. I gave him access on team view and he went thru and got me squared away.
Appreciate the support and feedback from this community.
So what was it that turned out to be the problem?
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So what was it that turned out to be the problem?
Had to calibrate the setup in windows. This setup is way more realistic than the Logitech 3D pro I was playing with before. Flying by trim using energy is way more attainable now and I am not use to it yet. Spending some quality time in the TA dialing it all in. Each aircrafts rudder shifts at different speeds which I never noticed before. Just last night I took a P-38-L heavy and was able to shake a spit 16 with thee rockets still onboard. This setup is proving worth the headache of setting it up.
Thanks for the help in the matter. >s<