Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Aircraft and Vehicles => Topic started by: Pongo on March 29, 2003, 01:23:55 PM
-
from hyperscale.com
(http://64.124.220.113/images/db7ab_14.jpg)
-
Oh My! that is sweet work!
-
realy nice ! building now a Do 335 and seems it will take some 3 months more to look same :)
-
wow! very good work!
How do you make weathering on a model anyway?
-
Originally posted by frank3
wow! very good work!
How do you make weathering on a model anyway?
Typically with silver paint dry brushed on in multple, slowly built up layers and earth tone pastels (for dirt an soot).
-
Originally posted by frank3
wow! very good work!
How do you make weathering on a model anyway?
Here is what I do, I'm currently working on a F4U-1A so I'll use that as an example. (sorry no pics, will gladly accept a digital camera ;))
-It's a judgement call when to start painting, on my hog I painted the cockpit pieces seperately then assembled.
-Then I assembled the fuse and wings, painted the engine components and assembled into the fuse.
-Taped the cockpit, stuffed engine openings, gear bays etc. with foam cut to shape or tissue.
-Sprayed 'Aluminum' over the entire model (2 coats)
-Sprayed 'Future floor polish' over the aluminum colored airframe (2 coats) the acrylic finish of 'Future' will protect the Aluminum coat from bonding with future color coats and protect it from sanding.
-Sprayed 'Sea Blue' on the airframe (2 coats) its like Navy blue only a tad lighter. (not doing the 3 colored option, the model is too small. I have a larger version that will be getting a similar paint job as the -1 in AH with the airbrush)
-Used a very very fine sandpaper to reveal the Aluminum coat on raised surfaces, and some leading edges like wings, engine cowling, horiz/vert stab. (gotta be cautious not to overdue it though)
-Used a wooden toothpick to scratch out the blue from some panel lines and along the edges of some of the panels.
-My next step will be another coat of 'Future floor polish' and then a flat-black "wash" for the panel lines and other recessed areas. Usually 1 part paint, 3 parts water (I use water based acrylics).
I do roughly the same for the indivdual parts I've yet to assemble like the gear
I missed doing these affects on the prop though I may be able to salvage it. (got ahead of myself)
When I'm done I'll get a finished picture and post it.
-
I'm glad you posted that info about weathering the Corsair.
I took advantage of http://www.modelexpo-online.com clearing out their Airfix and Heller 1/48 kits and picked up a couple of Corsair kits (British F4U-1A and USMC AU-1). I'm building the AU-1 first (which is just a different designation for the F4U-4 in Korea) and started with a coat of interior green over the weekend. The kit itself is pretty basic and simple - certainly not going to be confused for a Tamiya or Hasagawa kit - but it was cheap so if I botch it up I'm not too concerned about it. I'm going to give your weathering tips a shot and see if I can do it. I have an airbrush but haven't ever used it (got it very used and missing a compressor).
Do you dilute the Future floorpolish or take straight out of the bottle? I'm going to be brush painting - will I be risking brush marks or does Future level itself out pretty well?
-
not sure on what type of effect you'll get by brushing on the Future....It may gather in the recessed areas due to the nature of brushing. I'm not speaking from experience though as I've never tried to brush it on.
What I would suggest is stopping by a local hobbie store and picking up a Testors multi-purpose sprayer and a can of propellant. The sprayer is relatively cheap and is good enough (in my experience) for this sort of task. http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=2207
I've also seen them at Wal-Mart in the Toy section with the model stuff.
I used the Future straight outta the bottle, it's almost like water so it sprays nicely.
-
Originally posted by AcId
Here is what I do, I'm currently working on a F4U-1A so I'll use that as an example. (sorry no pics, will gladly accept a digital camera ;))
-It's a judgement call when to start painting, on my hog I painted the cockpit pieces seperately then assembled.
-Then I assembled the fuse and wings, painted the engine components and assembled into the fuse.
-Taped the cockpit, stuffed engine openings, gear bays etc. with foam cut to shape or tissue.
-Sprayed 'Aluminum' over the entire model (2 coats)
-Sprayed 'Future floor polish' over the aluminum colored airframe (2 coats) the acrylic finish of 'Future' will protect the Aluminum coat from bonding with future color coats and protect it from sanding.
-Sprayed 'Sea Blue' on the airframe (2 coats) its like Navy blue only a tad lighter. (not doing the 3 colored option, the model is too small. I have a larger version that will be getting a similar paint job as the -1 in AH with the airbrush)
-Used a very very fine sandpaper to reveal the Aluminum coat on raised surfaces, and some leading edges like wings, engine cowling, horiz/vert stab. (gotta be cautious not to overdue it though)
-Used a wooden toothpick to scratch out the blue from some panel lines and along the edges of some of the panels.
-My next step will be another coat of 'Future floor polish' and then a flat-black "wash" for the panel lines and other recessed areas. Usually 1 part paint, 3 parts water (I use water based acrylics).
I do roughly the same for the indivdual parts I've yet to assemble like the gear
I missed doing these affects on the prop though I may be able to salvage it. (got ahead of myself)
When I'm done I'll get a finished picture and post it.
tnx Acid, I'll try it someday when I got a new model.
currently working on a B-17G and a P47N
-
Damn....Sunchaser needs to get in this thread. He has some real nice models that he has weathered and damaged. I wish he would stop in and post some pics of the stuff he has. If anybody sees him over in IL-2, tell him to stop by and share some pics with us here at AH.
-
That would be excellent sling, the more tips & tricks the better. It's always nice to pick up ideas.
That bit i said in my original post about the wash being 1 to 3 in paint & water....it's more like 1 to 6. I use 1 part paint and usually 2-3 parts airbrush thinner when painting normal coats of color, I got mixed up.
-
Unfortunately Acid....I dont have any way of contacting Sunchaser. I dont play IL-2 and he doesnt play AH anymore. So, if somebody out there who plays IL-2 and knows Sunchaser can ask him to stop by here and show us some pics, that would be awesome.
-
Well, seeing as how we're posting pictures....:)
A Tiffy I finished recently....
(http://www.yiu97.dial.pipex.com/agw/02.jpg)
There's a couple more shots over in AGWs modelling forum.
regards,
aircav
-
Very nice aircav! What did you use to photograph the model? I just completed 1/32 hurri and finished it as Douglas Baders plane. I photo'd it with a cheap disposable camera and got what I payed for.
(http://home.satx.rr.com/pointblank/films/002_0A.jpeg)
-
GOFAST
If you have an old inner tube that will hold air. you can use this in place of a compressor just attach the airbrush line to the valve stem of the inner tube.
works good when inflated to 30 pounds and is cheap until you can get a good compressor.
DarkHawk
-
ammo..dont do that ...made me feel like I was drunk..
aircav. Very nice work.
Im currently hacking apart an old Monogram Typhoon.
-
ammo,
the photo was taken with a Nikon digital camera. I have to say that I'm not a big fan of digital over SLR for normal photography, but for posting to the web it sure saves a lot of effort.
-
aircav, nice work man!
...I definitly need an airbrush.....:(
-
Originally posted by DarkHawk
GOFAST
If you have an old inner tube that will hold air. you can use this in place of a compressor just attach the airbrush line to the valve stem of the inner tube.
works good when inflated to 30 pounds and is cheap until you can get a good compressor.
DarkHawk
That's a good idea. Could use a bike tire and just keep refilling it with my foot pump. Hmmm.
I have a digital camera that I just bought and am still figuring out how it works. If I get a chance I'll post up some of my work.
Hey, aircav, how did you do the exhaust stacks on that Tiffy? I usually paint with silver metallic and brush over it with a black or brown wash, but it looks like you used a different technique.
-
very nice
-
Originally posted by gofaster
I have a digital camera that I just bought and am still figuring out how it works. If I get a chance I'll post up some of my work.
Hey, aircav, how did you do the exhaust stacks on that Tiffy? I usually paint with silver metallic and brush over it with a black or brown wash, but it looks like you used a different technique.
Pretty similar technique actually. The base coat was Tamiya Metallic grey, with a brown wash over it. This came out rather bright and coppery, so I laid on some brown and black pastel chalks over it. The black was used on the forward part of each stack, to represent the soot accumulation from the stack in front. The chalks seemed to dull it down nicely, and they were sealed with a clear flat coat. IIRC I may have done a very light silver dry brush as well. Close up:
(http://www.yiu97.dial.pipex.com/agw/stacks.jpg)
Look forward to your piccies. :)
regards,
aircav
edit: Thanks frank3, AGJV44_Rot 1
-
Originally posted by aircav
Pretty similar technique actually. The base coat was Tamiya Metallic grey, with a brown wash over it. This came out rather bright and coppery, so I laid on some brown and black pastel chalks over it. The black was used on the forward part of each stack, to represent the soot accumulation from the stack in front. The chalks seemed to dull it down nicely, and they were sealed with a clear flat coat. IIRC I may have done a very light silver dry brush as well.
Look forward to your piccies. :)
I haven't used chalks yet, but I'm going to try my hand with it on one of the small 1/76 tanks I'm building.
One trick I've found for simulating metal, that seems to work better on smaller scales than larger ones, is to prime the piece in flat white, then give it a coat of black wash. The black settles into the crevices and also dulls the white highpoints, giving it a good, steel metallic look but without the usual metallic sheen. I used this trick on a 1/144 scale F-16 jet engine exhaust tailpipe. I'll post a pic when daylight allows. Meanwhile, here's a link to my Yahoo Photo album of a tank I finished recently.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/nascargofaster/lst2?.tok=bcB83YRBzxoIMD0W&.dir=/My+Photos&.src=ph
One thing I didn't realize until I started reviewing the pics was that I had some silver overpaint on the cable molded onto the back of the hull (more noticable in the one shot from the back of the tank in the sand). I'll fix it in the morning. Take a close look at the shots with the tank on its diorama base and you'll notice that the desert is actually 4 different colors: Dark Tan, Afrika Mustard, Bright Yellow, and SAC Bomber Green, then given a brown wash to bring out the tank tread pattern. I sprayed the paint out of cans held about 2 feet over the base and just sort of let it fall onto the plastic. It sort of gave it a good texture, too.
-
To simulate rust I use baking soda lightly dusted on a coating of super glue then when set, paint rust and drybrush a bit of metallic gun metal and then pastels.
Gives a nice rusted cast iron look to exhaust parts of all kinds.
Also I just did a P-47D-11 that I first painted aluminum sprayed several light coats of Future to seal and protect. Then I painted flat Olive Drab and then cleat for decals. After all set for a day or so I began lightly sanding and scratching through the paint to expose the natural aluminum underneath (like what really happens) this I think looks softer and more natural then adding silver on top. When done (don't over do) a coat of flat completes things.
-
do no but i use mostly MATT Humbrols, and covering silver or aluminium painting over with other colors never give nice result, instead i use half dry alumiium paint with ver yfine brush , later vaxing all the model