Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Technical Support => Topic started by: turt21 on March 24, 2021, 05:31:18 PM
-
FYI I know Ive this problem for years. I get a lot of nose bounce and over reactiog rudder controls and was wondering if anyone would share the stick settings ?
-
I personally have the Axis scaling all turned up 100% across the top, except for my rudder pedals which are mostly 100% across top from 30% across going right
I have a tendency every since I started playing back in late October 1999, to use combat trim in level flight no stick/rudder input I wait til I've reached 300 to 325 mph IAS WHITE NEEDLE....red needle is TAS
Then I turn combat trim off.....
This will make it to where you get in a dogfight and start losing speed and Energy, your nose will not be bouncing all over the place trying to fight the automatic combat trim adjustments for your speed
You are turning/ maneuvering not flying straight which in my personal experience is all CT is really good for...
A gentle steady pull always works best, plus when you get slow and dive you will actually pick up E faster than you would using CT (combat trim)
Hope this helps.....I know it has with more than I can remember who I taught all through these years
Best of luck
TC
-
I forgot to post that it also stops the nose bounce when dropping notches off flaps
Just be sure to instantly bring flaps in faster than your speed is picking up when nose pointing downward
It takes practice
-
Turt21, stick settings are different for everyone what somebody likes, the next guy doesn't know how he flies like that.
You need to identify if the issues are controller induced, caused by the operator, or a little of both.
You can try a little damping on the pitch axis to help with the nose bounce, and on the yaw axis to help with the rudder.
You may find that you like a fully custom scaling set-up, or like me you use no scaling on any axis. I do have a touch of damping on my pitch, and roll axis because when I get out of my chair it will kick the auto pilot off if I don't.
The only way to find out is to play with different settings, If you can identify what the issues are caused by it helps point you in the areas that need attention.
If you want we could meet up in the TA and I might be able to help you resolve some of the issues.
:salute
Sik
-
Turt21,
<snip>
If you want we could meet up in the TA and I might be able to help you resolve some of the issues.
:salute
Sik
I think this is best and am happy my hand picked replacement showed up
Thanks Sik
-
My settings are like TC - 100% across all settings- I look for instant 1 to1 when making adjustments.. but that might take a new/ decent stick
I have trim on a rotor on the throttle
I spin that when CT is off usually during a t&b a2a
Eagler
-
My settings are like TC - 100% across all settings- I look for instant 1 to1 when making adjustments.. but that might take a new/ decent stick
I have trim on a rotor on the throttle
I spin that when CT is off usually during a t&b a2a
Eagler
Safe to assume, Combat Trim, like Stall Limiter..handi-capping use,is detrimental for getting maximum Performance in AH? I knew about Stall limiter, issue. Just never saw the Combat Trim being posted, as in YES, or Nah, this works?! Makes sense, YOU SQUIRMY some ma ma squeak :rofl
WHA HA HA HA! Now I know your secret! :devil LOOK OUT ON MONDAY!!! ALSO....why d you go with scaling on Rudder and not Pitch and Roll? Reducing or trying to impede "rudder shooting/aiming"?
Love Ya Brother,🤔
BW1st/ULcap
-
Feet resting on pedals you want to avoid unnecessary rudder input...
Just little bit of deadband and/ or little bit of scaling
But like Eagler posted
I want instant 1 to 1 100 %, that doesn't need anything but gentle input and still can really spin (roll, bank, dive, etc)
When you need it
-
I have had that problem for years too .. AKAK helped me with stick settings but I have found I have had to do this scaling on elevators and rudders.
<S>