Author Topic: Puppies  (Read 852 times)

Offline midnight Target

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 15114
Puppies
« Reply #15 on: March 21, 2005, 06:16:54 PM »
What's about 3 notches below "junior hunter". I'm thinking about entering Bradley in the "senior face licker" or "outstanding belly rub" division.

Offline OIO

  • Silver Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1520
Puppies
« Reply #16 on: March 21, 2005, 06:36:12 PM »
ah well theres a difference between being beaten the snot out of with a newspaper and a slap in the butt and nose.


Anywho, here's a pic of the boxer+labrador I was telling you about.


Yago

Offline wombatt

  • Parolee
  • Silver Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1016
Puppies
« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2005, 01:41:18 AM »
Buy an Akita.
My female pissed once in the house and after I showed her where to go she was trained.
Akitas will only crap in one area of the yard or waite till you take them walking then they become crap machines LOL.

We used the crate on her for a short while untill we noticed that she had chewed her way thru the 1/8th inch thick bars.

Offline capt. apathy

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 4240
      • http://www.moviewavs.com/cgi-bin/moviewavs.cgi?Bandits=danger.wav
Puppies
« Reply #18 on: March 22, 2005, 04:49:03 AM »
from the chewing and willingness to use the floor as a toilet right in front of you, I'd guess he's bored as hell.

puppies (and especially active dogs like Shepard's) require a lot of interaction in the first 10 months or so, it won't be so demanding as they get older and gets more patients but if they don't get the attention they need they'll find a way to get noticed.

I don't know the details of your situation, but setting up a pen in the kitchen screams to me that you likely don't have the time to or experience to devote to that kind of dog.  Shepard's are wonderful dogs but no matter how good your intentions, a badly trained or untrained one is big and dangerous, and very capable of doing damage.

all that aside heres a couple of basics on dogs (the principles are also handy when you get kids.  IMO nobody should raise kids until they can raise a dog to adulthood that comes when called, sits or stays when told to, heels without a leash, and doesn't bark all night, piss on the floor or hump your leg. )

1.  any rules that you will ever have for the dog apply from day one.  you are more patient with them when they are younger, but all rules apply.  they get privileges and more trust, not new rules, as they mature.
  you aren't going to have a dog that is eager to learn if every time he gets a lesson down you just show him something new he's not allowed to do.  it may be cute when the little puppy tries tow you with the leash, it's not nearly so cute when he tops lbs (just like those idiots that think it's cute when a toddler curses, and then gets embarrassed and angry when he's 8 years old and says something inappropriate).

2.  know something about the breed you are getting and if they will fit into your life for a reason that is more thought out than "I've always wanted one and think they are just the coolest breed"
  many breeds have some tendencies 'hardwired' into their personality.  you can be an excellent and dedicated trainer, but your not likely to make much of a dent in stopping a collie from rounding up other animals, or making a Dalmatian sit still and relax.  many behaviors have been bred into them for generations, don't try to fight this, learn about the breeds and find one thats peculiarities are a plus for your lifestyle and expectations.

3.  the 'pack mentality' approach to teaching a dog his place is very helpful in hounds, working dogs and intense or aggressive dogs (like rotts). but unless you have some sort improper aggressiveness (growling or snapping at the kids) it's not really helpful with most companion dogs.

4.   in most cases dogs want nothing more in life than to make you happy.  and most dogs that fall short of that do it because the have no idea what you want them to do.  most good professional dog trainers want the owner to be there.  what they don't tell you is that that is because they aren't really training the dog, their training you how to own a dog.
  you need to be clear with your signals, don't let your mood effect how you respond to your dog, and never forget that they are always learning, but not always what you think you are teaching.  
  what I mean is that if you let unacceptable behavior go uncorrected just one time, you've taught them that it is sometimes exceptable.  you are going to be tested (as they try and see if todays a good day to do it again) many, many times and correct them many, many times to get them to forget that other lesson.
  unlearning takes much longer than learning.

5.  the best way to teach a dog good behavior is to set up a situation where the dog can't help but do what you want, and then heap them with praise and attention.  this is way more effective then trying to punish bad behavior, since they often aren't sure exactly what part of the behavior got them punished.  (should they avoid you when you get home from work because you're just always mad and mean when you get home?  or does your mood have something to do with the meal he made out of the trash-cans 6 hours ago?)

6. don't get a dog and then start thinking about when you are going to get the time to train him.  you should already have a plan and be prepared before you ever bring him home.
  for instance I almost always prefer to get new pups in late spring.  the weather is nice, you can leave the doors open and you and the puppy can be outside comfortably all day if you want.
   first thing I take the pup to a corner of the yard, set him down to play and lie down diagonally and play with them.  you've effectively kept him in the corner but he doesn't feel trapped and is getting all the attention he craves.
   after he relieves himself a few times you get up and expand the play area a bit, go along with him as he explores the yard.  let him have a little more room to roam around but not to much all at once.  wait until he's relieved himself a few more times before you expand the area.  until you've thoroughly explored the yard (I'm talking about hours here.  this isn't something you do and then it's done, it's a approach to living with your dog.  no scolding, just play, setting him up where he can only do the right thing, and praising him when he does)
   after awhile you can go in the house but leave the door open.  except when you are trying to undo problems from bad training or lack of training, the dog will prefer to go to the same area to relieve himself.  if you set him up to know nowhere else but the yard for relieving himself, and don't block his access (until the rule are more clear and he has more bladder control) to the yard with closed doors or harsh winter weather, they'd much rather go outside.
  not all dogs are going to be perfect in this area but it's way more effective than the "rub his face in the mess and hit him on the way out the door mentality".
  my chow-pit mix will be 15 yrs old this spring.  she's only made a mess of my floor one time when she was extremely sick and a broken car left her spending a whole day left in the house.  we don't even have to shovel the yard, for the last 15 years she has consistently gone back to that same corner of the yard where I first took her when I brought her home.  at one point she actually attacked my brothers dog while he was visiting because it crapped in the middle of the yard (and she stepped in it) instead of putting it in the corner like a civilized dog.


wow, looking back thats a huge wall of text and it doesn't even scratch the surface.  I hope there's something in there that can help you.

I hope anybody else who's thinking about getting a dog changes up the order a bit and asks the questions and learns what they need to know before getting the dog.  if you get the dog before the plan you are left with a lot of un-teaching to do before you can even really begin it's training.

Offline culero

  • Persona Non Grata
  • Gold Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2528
Puppies
« Reply #19 on: March 22, 2005, 08:13:02 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Toad
Was having a discussion on "positive only" training with a clicker advocate.

The guy is very nice and very smart. I asked him if any Labs had titled at any level using positive only and/or/with clicker and he said, to his knowledge, no. He also said that folks were trying.

I find that sort of interesting as Junior Hunter is not a very difficult test for a well-bred Lab.

I do intend to look into clicker, but my sked is just way overfull.


Toad, I once had a Lab that was the best in-field dog I've ever seen. And, I never had to punish her physically in order to bring her to that state of training. I used demonstration and praise for compliance/scorn for disobediance as my training SOP (admittedly with considerable patience).

But what took her from 90% obedient to 100% was a life lesson supplied by nature :)

I used to enjoy going out at night with a couple of friends and our dogs to hunt varmints - jackrabbits and coyotes mainly. We used spotlights, .22 rifles for short to intermediate range, 5.5-6mm rifles for longer ranges. We set the dogs on anything wounded but not killed (usually difficult running/bounding targets) and sometimes allowed the dogs to engage in pursuit without shooting first. They loved every opportunity, of course, but we as a team (man/dog) were always happiest with the instances where they brought quarry to bay for a close range coup de grace kill.

Anyway, Sheba as I said was pretty damned good, but did have a tendency to allow excitement to overcome her enough that she'd ignore a command to disengage and return to truck.

Then, one night, Scott (my hunting buddy) shouted "STOP" as I was driving. I did, and he told the dogs "GET 'EM". They went :)

Then I saw that the prey was a skunk.

After telling Scott what a dumbprettythang he was, I immediately endeavored to call the dogs off. Scott's dog ignored me completely. Sheba turned her head, looked at me, looked at Scott's dog still running, and decided "Fuggit, Daddy, I'm on a Mission From God". She followed in close pursuit.

Luckily she didn't close Scott's dog, so it took the brunt of the headon shot the skunk delivered. The odor immediately made Sheba reconsider the fact that perhaps Daddy had a point, and that returning to the truck was the WTG. She did.

I heaped scorn on her, refused to allow her to mount the truck, and made her follow me home (not a cruel thing, our regular thrice weekly exercise session was a five-mile run by her following me on my motorcycle for @ 15-20 mph, she was a born running fool).

Once home, I chained her under shelter, away from the house (she lived inside with me) and left her with food, water, and no attention for 2 days.

When I finally went to her, bathed her with tomato juice, and allowed her back in the house, she was visibly relieved.

And she never ever failed to instantly obey a command for the rest of her life :)

culero (those were the days, and her pups were as good)
“Before we're done with them, the Japanese language will be spoken only in Hell!” - Adm. William F. "Bull" Halsey

Offline OIO

  • Silver Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1520
Puppies
« Reply #20 on: March 22, 2005, 01:39:55 PM »
you evil man. you tortured the dog by denying it your beloved company for TWO days.


If I were the dog id've preffered the slap on my snout.


;) :p

Offline Vipermann

  • Nickel Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 405
Puppies
« Reply #21 on: March 22, 2005, 03:00:54 PM »
I second what cougar said about the alpha roll. I used that technique with our beagle. He would drop and roll on his side when he heard a stern NO. It saved his life once, chasing a rabbit he was running for the road, my mother shouted NO to him and he dropped to the ground, a second later the rabbit was pancaked on the road by a cement truck. I have no doubt that if he hadn't listened he would be burried in the back yard at my parents house.
Get Busy Living Or Get Busy Dieing

Offline indy007

  • Gold Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3294
Puppies
« Reply #22 on: March 22, 2005, 03:20:52 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by OIO
Important note though.. dont ever give a dog beer. Its not good for them and more importantly, its less beer for YOU. ;) :aok


My parent's Lhasa Apso has drunk a beer a day for the last .. 12 years? He's around 130 in dog years. Will not drink when my dad is out of town. Takes his job of protecting the house very seriously. 1 1/2 sedatives and still mean enough to wake up and attack the groomers. It takes sedatives, myself with the shears, and my 270 pound dad to groom him ourselves. Best dog we've ever owned.

Offline nirvana

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 5640
Puppies
« Reply #23 on: March 22, 2005, 05:30:45 PM »
Can I say i'm $15 and had nothing to do with the planning?  If it was my choice we would've gotten it at the end of the school year when I could be home all day with him but I can't.  Thanks for the info again guys it's helped a good bit.
Who are you to wave your finger?

Offline Bluedog

  • Silver Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 915
Puppies
« Reply #24 on: March 23, 2005, 05:01:39 AM »
Dogs lick themselves clean.


Use his conveniently soft fluffy fur to clean up the mess, tell him 'No!' and put him outside till he cleans himself up.



Harsh. but works a charm.




He may start eyeing your jugular funny though.

Offline Scootter

  • Silver Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1050
Puppies
« Reply #25 on: March 23, 2005, 07:25:42 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by nirvana
ok I will try what you guys have recommened my parents are soft so they use the kitchen kennel so he doesn't whine (doesn't like to be alone) but he goes in a smaller one at night next to my parents bed.  I have tried to hold him down but I guess I will try to get close to his jaw next time.  Walks seem to be a must I guess every day after school will be his time for a walk, other dogs love to walk too though:( .  See if I can get my sister into the walking mode too so they others don't feel left out.  I was taught (by our smaller dog) that hitting with news papers will cause resentment but she was abused as a pup so that could be why.  Anyway I think i'll go and take him for a walk before it gets too dark.  Would any of you guys know if an injury (Other dog bit his ear last night:( ) would cause the ear to not stand up?  Seems to be a major cause of concern for my step dad.

Thanks for all the info been helping me:aok



I'm on my 4th pure German Shepherd now, Hunter is 5 months old and his right ear is just standing up. They should be up by 6 to eight months but they can be a bit lazy and floppy until 12 months.

 Try not to pet the ears or pull on them to allow the cartilage to stiffen. I needed to cut a spoon shaped piece from a plastic lid (cool whip works well) and after cleaning the ear well taping this in side as a brace can work. Ask your vet or a good breeder.

Here are some pics from 3 months old he will be very large (over 100 lbs) he is a German German Shepherd  long hair from a full German blood line.











Note the reading material on the table



This is the Breeder we got him from

http://www.4GSD.com

Crate trained all four, longest house breaking was 4 weeks

Read all you can on dog training and German Shepherds you can they deserve it.

Best dogs going IMHO but they NEED to learn and to be an active part of the family, do not neglect him or you will have a large frustrated bored smart dog and that's not going to be good.

This is Kayla last year on a trip to family for Christmas, she does have the life. She is 10 in the pic and has only eaten Nutro for food from day one. Coat is like mink.


When I die I want to come back as my dog, they have the life.

Take care.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2005, 07:33:23 AM by Scootter »